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Spark Plug Install Instructions


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  • 3 months later...
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  • 11 months later...

Hey all, has anyone done this from under the car?

 

Not sure what people mean by still having to access this stuff from the top of the car even when lifted as some seem to suggest that when going in at it from the bottom it was less of a fuss. Seems like everything could all come out from the bottom upon first (and quick) glance?

 

but of course i have a OBXT so not a GT so maybe theres a slight difference there

Edited by kaitanium
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I have done a few models of Subarus, my 05 LGT, an 05 STI, 05 Forester XT.

 

I find it easiest to take out the motor mount on the side of the vehicle you're working on as well as the readiator retaining bolts off in order to get the clearance you need.

 

The problem is not getting access to the coilpack and spark plugs, but having enough room to get your spark plug socket and extentions in the galley in and out.

 

Raising the engine just enough makes the whole experience so much easier that cutting up your hand and getting frustrated not being able to get to the plugs. Just be sure to use a block of wood under the oil pan and jack it up slow so as not to damage the pan.

 

Also note, on aged vehicles, be careful with taking off the coilpack as the plastic clip will be brittle and can break off. If so, I used zip ties to hold them in place.

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On a Legacy using the aforementioned tools in this thread I had zero issues swapping any of the plugs. And I have large hands :lol:

 

Also note, on aged vehicles, be careful with taking off the coilpack as the plastic clip will be brittle and can break off. If so, I used zip ties to hold them in place.

 

THIS. I did break 2/4 of the plastic clips. I also did not zip tie them back on, YOLO.

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Easiest way to change the plugs is to use a SOCKET ON The Spark plug socket. Do not use an extension.

 

I have been changing these for years using extensions, knuckles etc etc then a friend of mine, a Subaru mechanic, told me to use the spark plug socket and then a socket on that.

 

A spark plug socket has a hex head end where the extension goes in. Just put a socket onto that and go.

 

WAAAAAAAY less time and easier as you don't have a hard time separating the extension from the socket on the back ones.

 

 

Also if you break the coil pack connector, go here Outfront Motorsports has sourced the connectors from Subaru supplier

If you go to eBay its free shipping.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Ignition-Coil-Wire-Harness-Terminal-Plug-Set-Impreza-WRX-STi-Connector-/300843950050?hash=item460bb25fe2:m:meXHc-cgW9PxYIMuWQ4Adtw&vxp=mtr

 

 

How to swap them video

 

IMG_3740.jpg.bcebfa90559bbb35c2ecc202d95097e4.jpg

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IMG_3743.jpg.6305b9a871699941333d4e42e1c08cf6.jpg

Edited by Scooby2.5
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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Just did my plugs on my 2009 outback XT today with a friend. This thread made it seem like a daunting task (but a helpful thread!!!) when in fact it was pretty fun and relatively straight forward to do this. Took us about 2.5hrs as it was our first time doing this so next time, it would be for sure quicker. I'd say if we had this down to muscle memory, it would be tops 1hr for 2 people to do.

 

Did it from under the car and with the right tools, it makes anything easy. Parked the car with each front wheel ontop of a 2x4 piece of wood for just a tad extra working room. Sorry LGT guys, but i sort of love my stock clearance hehe :). Did not remove a single thing from the engine other than a #12 bolt on the driver side that held a flat black plastic pipe to the engine so that the pipe could flex a bit for that rear drivers side coil pack (didnt remove the pipe) to come out.

 

Hardest part (more like a bit more time consuming than hard)? Figuring out how to turn the driver side rear coil pack an extra 45 degrees for it to slip down. Other than that, everything else was a breeze.

 

Best tip: Use the grooves on the engine around the coil packs as a guide when removing the coil packs really helps. Sort of sideways L shaped. Removing coil packs is simply pulling them out towards the direction of your tire then rotating 45 degrees while dropping them out and down in the direction of the floor.

 

For my outback XT, spark plug part number was SILFR6A (nkg laser iridium) for reference in case anyone is searching.

 

Any outback owners who are curious, I would love to help, just PM me as it's easy to miss replies in-thread.

Edited by kaitanium
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  • 6 months later...

I replaced mine today and didn't even bother trying to do the job from up top. I was on a lift so it made life easier.

 

There are 3 tools that I highly recommend using:

 

1. A pick, to help getting the coil pack connectors off without breaking the clips.

2. Thexton spark plug installer/remover (or equivalent). The 6" worked perfectly for install but not so well in removal.

3. Snap-on part number S9721A spark plug socket. Double swivel, universal, 5/8 socket. You won't find a tool made more for the job. It also has a strong magnet for holding the socket, so no need to worry about the rubber insert getting stuck on the spark plug (Been down that road a few times).

 

I found a 1/4" flex head ratchet with a 12mm short socket worked best for the coil hold down bolt.

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  • 7 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Finally changed out the original spark plugs on my 2007 LGT.

 

Up until now, the most I've done by myself was a brake pad/rotor swap. I knew the plugs were a step up from that so I read through this entire thread not once but twice. And yet, I still managed to spend an embarrassing amount of time while making lots of stupid mistakes.

 

Relatively speaking, the passenger side wasn't too bad. The driver side however, will haunt my dreams for weeks to come. Namely that mofo rear drivers side plug. The time it took me to replace that plug was longer than the other 3 combined!

 

Of course it was a combination of bad luck and stupidity. Like me dropping my 3" extension into the engine bay. I couldn't for the life of me locate it so had to drive my other vehicle to the local hardware store to pick up a replacement. (Hopefully it pops out on its own without destroying my engine.)

 

Thankfully, the car started on its first try! The idle was lower than normal and surged a bit but I'm guessing it'll take some time for the ECU to relearn/readjust. At least there was no check engine light!

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Dont use an extension. See post 832

 

A spark plug socket has a hex end where the extension or ratchet connects.

 

Use a socket on the spark plug socket. It works perfect.

 

When you get the plug loose and start screwing it out you can easily separate the two so its not hitting the frame rail unlike the extension.

 

Hope that helps for next time ;)

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Damn!!! How did I miss that? I think my attention started to waver by around page 50. :p

 

That would have saved me at least an hour.

 

I used an extension on the plug socket in the drivers back and when it came time to remove the tool from the new plug, the extension wouldn't release from the plug socket. Which of course made it impossible to remove the tool.

 

Using a socket on the socket would have made things so much easier. I sure hope I won't have to repeat this job but that's a great tip.

Edited by spicytuna
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:spin:

Damn!!! How did I miss that? I think my attention started to waver by around page 50. :p

 

That would have saved me at least an hour.

 

I used an extension on the plug socket in the drivers back and when it came time to remove the tool from the new plug, the extension wouldn't release from the plug socket. Which of course made it impossible to remove the tool.

 

Using a socket on the socket would have made things so much easier. I sure hope I won't have to repeat this job but that's a great tip.

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Also you can remove that rubber insert in the plug socket so the socket doesn't get stuck on the plug.

 

I have a plug socket with the rubber removed and one with the rubber.

 

Edit, May 2 2019, I just replaced #1 and #3 plugs in the wagon. I used a regular 5/8 deep socket to remove and install the plugs, if your careful you can hold the plug in the socket as you feed it into the valve cover.

 

The flex joint on the socket, then a 6" extension then another 6" or a 3" make it easy to thread the new plug in #3.

 

I left the wires on the coil packs.

 

#3 coil pack had to be rotated/spun to bring the connector towards the front. took me three or four try's to get that coil pack back on the plug.

 

I did put anti-seize on the plugs and coil pack bolts. as well as the air filter box threads. everything came out easy as all those had anti-seize from years ago.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I pull-out the rubber insert and section it in half with a razor blade and reinstall it in the plug socket.

 

That way, it has much-reduced grip on the plug, only just enough to get the plug into and out of the bore.

 

 

It also keeps me from dropping the plug and bunging up the gap, and yet is easily detached from the plug once installed.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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https://store.snapon.com/Double-Swivel-Universal-Socket-Spark-Plug-Universal-Double-Swivel-5-8-6-Point-P642284.aspx

 

No rubber that pulls out, no magnet that may or may not work, no need for extra sockets. This socket should be in every DIY Subaru owners toolbox and every Subaru tech's toolbox. I'm a big fan of no fuss and quickness. This is the only spark plug socket you need for Subarus. I have 2 of these and may put my extra one up for sale on here in the next couple of weeks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a CEL with a Cylinder #2 misfire Friday night so I figured it was time to replace plugs and a coil pack (was planning to do this later in the summer anyway). The rear two coil packs are a PITA to get back on and you really have to feel around to get them properly seated.

I did run into a problem on the rear passenger (cylinder #3). There just was not enough clearance to get the coil pack out. I tried, and I had someone else try. We rotated 180 degrees, we tried going up, down, and towards the front , as well as various angles in between. I ended up scratching up the valve cover pretty good from trying to wedge the coil pack out. I know the XT has a bit less clearance than the LGT, but it was stupid tight and I gave up after fighting it for a couple hours.

 

I did want to add that I picked up a Gearwrench flex spark plug socket that worked for me with either 1 or 2 1" extensions. I know people love the Snap On one pictured here and it looks fantastic, but this was about 1/6 the price at $12.

Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT

Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon

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  • 9 months later...

Just here to say thank you to this thread. All the tips made changing the plugs on the OBXT a (relative) breeze with the right number of extensions/flex joints/spark plug sockets with the rubber removed.

 

The best tip was to remove or alter the rubber insert in the spark plug socket. I ended up using a spark plug socket with a loose rubber insert to get the threads started and took the rubber out completely to tighten all the way. Also loosening up the secondary air pump and associated hoses gave a lot of clearance on the drivers side.

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  • 8 months later...

Drivers rear is ridiculous. Just spent an hour and couldn’t get the coil pack off. Should I tilt it up or down left or right to get it out? I even used a bar to slightly push the motor over and it still wouldn’t come out. Hopefully there is a trick I’m missing. I’d hate to do 3

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Drivers rear is ridiculous. Just spent an hour and couldn’t get the coil pack off. Should I tilt it up or down left or right to get it out? I even used a bar to slightly push the motor over and it still wouldn’t come out. Hopefully there is a trick I’m missing. I’d hate to do 3

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Ok so anyone stating rotating 45 degrees is insane. Key is complete 180. Flip it upside down. Rotate it to the right towards the firewall. The wire is going to get super tight but you can flip it. Then tip it up. Use a little force and it comes out. Reverse it to get it back in. Unclipping the wire would def make it easier but I was worried about not getting it back on and having to pull it again. Short of loosening motor mounts and jacking the motor up this is the only way to get that one out. Man my plugs weren’t even that bad. Lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 7 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Thank you creating this thread, I’m in the same boat with this job..

 

It’s my first time trying this and this is probably the toughest job I’ve ever done on these cars due to such tight clearance. After removing the #2 coil, its rubber grommet stayed inside. Took me some effort wiggling by pulling it with 90 degrees pliers and it finally came out. But now I ended up with a Cylinder #2 misfire.. I wasn’t able to remove the spark plug yet.

 

I’m going to purchase the magnetic Gearwrench spark plug socket SubaruEmpassador recommended. I was even thinking of raising the motor lol.. Going to keep on trying!

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