Megan Racing Camber Kit MRS-SU-0510

Howdy folks.

 

I have only come across one reference to anybody here using these, but they seem like a better bet for a lowered OBXT than Legacy arms with the Whiteline camber bushings. I have read that creaking is common with those bushings and sometimes they aren't enough to get reasonable rear camber. These Megan arms would seem to avoid both issues, and they aren't that much more than the bushings and Legacy arms. It is really hard to tell if they play nicely with the bumpstops from the only pics I have found, anybody know? Thoughts on these, preferably based on real world experience?

 

Thanks, Doug

If anyone can chime in on this kit I'm interested to find out as well. Recently lowered my Outback and I've got -2.2 camber on both rears.

 

Edit: Looks like they updated the part number: MRS-SU-0511

https://www.amazon.com/Megan-Racing-MRS-SU-05117880-Subaru-Outback/dp/B01BUEHJ0I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492801051&sr=8-1&keywords=MRS-SU-0511

Edited April 21, 2017 by jkaic

If anyone can chime in on this kit I'm interested to find out as well. Recently lowered my Outback and I've got -2.2 camber on both rears.

 

So what did you do to your car to get where it is now? My initial plan was LGT wagon take-offs and bump stops w/ Konis. Then I read a lot of opinions that you really need to have Legacy upper control alarms for travel. Then quite a few couldn't seem to get reasonable rear camber. It doesn't seem to me like it should be that hard, there should be a parts list that gets everything where it needs to be...

 

Thanks, Doug

 

P.S. Is -2.2* negative camber liveable or does it destroy the tires?

I have -2, it's livable. Not ideal though.

 

Lowering an Outback to Legacy GT height (or lower) results in about -2 degrees of camber. Using a whiteline bushing (KCA399) in the rear UCA can help back off some of that, however, it's still pretty close to -2 (which is where I am at). @OP, I personally don't like that part (no real reason for it), and would prefer to get the adjustable arm kit (Whiteline KCA124 or the Megan variety of it)

 

@Davencleve, From the factory their is no camber adjust in the rear. And you are right, it's not that hard and there is a parts list. It's still more money than just throwing on springs+shocks and calling it a day though, and that's where the confusion is.

 

You have a couple options - remove subframe spacers, KCA399 and live with it, Adjustable arms (KTA124).

 

I am currently doing KCA399 and live with it, with plans to install KTA124 at some point. You should add a strut spacer of around 3/4 of an inch to your planned suspension. Not sure why, but to get our Outbacks to visually sit level we need a decent spacer. That spacer will also help with your alignment (higher you are less camber you have)

Edited April 21, 2017 by Rhitter

I'm dropped on bilstein legacy shocks with some unknown aftermarket brand springs in the front and sedan stock springs in the rears.. had it originally on my legacy wagon with an even 1" drop all around. Aside from swapping out bumpstops for legacy ones that's all I did to the outback.

 

-2 camber is quite aggressive I've been told. Both rears are out of spec for toe and naturally both bolts are seized up so I couldn't get anything done in the rears when I went for an alignment.

I'll be replacing that control arm bushing and bolt so I figure before going back to get another alignment might as well do something about the camber.

 

But with the Megan adjustable UCA, is that sufficient to put camber back to spec? Would I need the other adjustable links that are listed in the Whiteline KTA124 kit?

Both rears are out of spec for toe and naturally both bolts are seized up so I couldn't get anything done in the rears when I went for an alignment.

I'll be replacing that control arm bushing and bolt so I figure before going back to get another alignment might as well do something about the camber.

 

my problem exactly.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_1/suspension_and_axle/rear_suspension/illustration_2/

 

number 9 is that bushing does whiteline make one as well?

I have -2, it's livable. Not ideal though.

 

@Dvancleve, From the factory their is no camber adjust in the rear. And you are right, it's not that hard and there is a parts list. It's still more money than just throwing on springs+shocks and calling it a day though, and that's where the confusion is.

 

You have a couple options - remove subframe spacers, KCA399 and live with it, Adjustable arms (KTA124).

 

I am currently doing KCA399 and live with it, with plans to install KTA124 at some point. You should add a strut spacer of around 3/4 of an inch to your planned suspension. Not sure why, but to get our Outbacks to visually sit level we need a decent spacer. That spacer will also help with your alignment (higher you are less camber you have)

 

Thanks

 

Can you please elaborate on removing subframe spacers? Is it a big project, like removing all of the spaces that make an Outback different ? I don't think I've seen it come up before in regard to rear camber. Also, on the saggy butt spacers, how hard are they to put in? My inclination is to try swapping everything without them, several people have told me that's fine with LGT wagon rear springs. If nothing else, it becomes easy to measure how much extra height you'd like and order the appropriate spacers/bolts.

 

Regards, Doug

Thanks

 

Can you please elaborate on removing subframe spacers? Is it a big project, like removing all of the spaces that make an Outback different ? I don't think I've seen it come up before in regard to rear camber. Also, on the saggy butt spacers, how hard are they to put in? My inclination is to try swapping everything without them, several people have told me that's fine with LGT wagon rear springs. If nothing else, it becomes easy to measure how much extra height you'd like and order the appropriate spacers/bolts.

 

Regards, Doug

 

Yep, exactly. It's removing all the spacers that make the Outback the Outback - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/info-ob-gt-suspension-geometry-removing-spacer-180579.html

 

I don't have a good picture of the spacers on the rears. But it's really easy (depending on height of the spacer) you will need to replace the rear studs with bolts and it just sits directly on top of the top hat.

 

I rarely see just swapping to rear Legacy GT wagon springs as enough. Usually that leaves some saggy butt. The cars come with them from factory, if you ever carry anything in the back of the car it just makes it so much worse.

As an example, he has JDM wagon pinks and still needs a 1/2inch spacer to sit level.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5330842&postcount=2594

Edited May 30, 2017 by Rhitter

I just ordered these arms for my legacy wagon, will update once they arrive and installed

Any update on these arms? I'm interested to see how they are.

Interested in these as well. Does anyone have any feedback on these?

Did some digging, apparently these have been discontinued according to Race Consulting Agency in Illinois.

 

 

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Oh yeah? Even the updated model (MRS-SU-0511, as opposed to 0510)?

 

Anyway, I bought and installed in the summer, but I never ended up adjusting it because the trailing arm bushings on both sides (the main one) is ripped and I haven't fixed it yet. Because of that my toe is still slightly off.. but no uneven camber wear and I'm still at around -2 both sides.

 

In terms of installation, it was pretty streaghtforward though. Had to sawzall the inner UCA bolt for both. Ill post a pic in a few.

Race Consulting Agency told me that they were out of stock, and they would not be getting more because it appeared to be out of production. That was part number MRS-SU-0511-02. So I ended up going with the Whiteline KCA399, which gives less adjustment but will hopefully be enough. Not looking forward to installing it though, looks like it will be a pain to install. They will also work with the stock bumpstops, which is good; I'm not looking to bust any shocks soon.

-2 camber will result in fast tire wear on the insides. When they wear out, the tire store will tell you have to replace all 4 because imbalance in tire heights. You can rotate to make them last longer.

Just received a revised UCA camber kit under warranty. The old version that I had installed started bending after hitting some serious potholes, and this was over an 8 month period. But regardless this should never happen to suspension arms. Anyway Megan Racing sent me a beefier one so this one should hold up.

 

In terms of camber adjustments, it's great. Easy adjustments. Only thing I suggest is to put anti-seize on all threads because I had to torch mine from the winter salts getting in.

FYI here's a pic of the camber arms.

You can see the bent old arms which got shorter in length compared to the revised version. Structurally the new ones look like they can handle much more.

 

Still not sure whether to install or sell since I can live with the current camber settings (-1.8 both sides)...

 

 

Edited April 13, 2018 by jkaic
added pics

I just put these on My OBXT with JDM BP5 bilstiens. It made the alignment settings a breeze.

I just put these on My OBXT with JDM BP5 bilstiens. It made the alignment settings a breeze.

 

Were you able to get toe in spec with just lateral link toe bolt?

I was able to adjust the toe to 1/16 " toe in at front of tires. I was O.K. with that.

Update: I still don’t know whether I’ll need anything like this, massive procrastination going on here, but I did come acroas the TruHart TH-S110 which seems to be the same part (but red instead of blue). I will certainly be going with whichever I can get cheapest/easiest: https://www.truhartusa.com/product_p/th-s110.htm.