Official 3.6R Mod List

Looks like a HOT air intake

Needs a gt hood now to make it work

 

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Was looking through this thread and didn't see this ever mentioned in the past so I figured I'd post it.

 

Kakimoto Intake Chamber for EZ36

Part #: BIC 336

MSRP: 53000¥ (~$470 USD)

Can be found on Yahoo.jp auctions for 45792¥ (~$403 USD) and on Croooober.com for 43366¥ (~$381 USD), both before shipping costs.

 

http://www.kakimotoracing.co.jp/products/bic336.html

 

 

Listed on their website only for the Outback 3.6R, since Japan never had the 3.6 in the Legacy, but fitment will be the same. Kakimoto is a long-standing, well known, and very high quality Japanese aftermarket manufacturer. Based on their reputation, and testimonials from 4th gen H6 owners I've spoken with who have their similar product for the EZ30, this chamber is quite an effective intake solution (obviously the most benefit would be gained from a tune), and likely more effective than the Takeda, but I cannot substantiate those claims with numbers. It certainly is some pretty engine bling either way.

 

I am planning on purchasing this part eventually (maybe Christmas bonus) to do proper tuning and testing with it so we have some actual figures.

Hey Humble, stick with OE intake. This thing gives a lot of tuning headaches (two-three years ago Ed had some horror stories) and still suffers from the typical intake tract resonance that messes with the MAF signal at the worst possible times on both the EZ30R/Ds and EZ36Ds.

 

All 3.6R intakes (including the Raptor prototype unicorns that never took off) are a far cry from the consistency of the stock intake setup. I should know, I tried almost all, including many custom intake solutions and maybe a dozen or so filter media form factors, materials, etc. The intake is not a limiting factor on these cars until well past the output any N/A 3.6R can hope to see.

Hey Humble, stick with OE intake. This thing gives a lot of tuning headaches (two-three years ago Ed had some horror stories) and still suffers from the typical intake tract resonance that messes with the MAF signal at the worst possible times on both the EZ30R/Ds and EZ36Ds.

 

All 3.6R intakes (including the Raptor prototype unicorns that never took off) are a far cry from the consistency of the stock intake setup. I should know, I tried almost all, including many custom intake solutions and maybe a dozen or so filter media form factors, materials, etc. The intake is not a limiting factor on these cars until well past the output any N/A 3.6R can hope to see.

 

Always trust your input on anything 3.6R related my friend. I still stand by the opinion that it's a gorgeous piece of bay bling, but looks like my Christmas bonus treat to myself will be better spent on Raptor headers and finishing my suspension.

You'll get far more enjoyment out of a proper suspension that you will pretty engine bling that just gets dirty and needs cleaning.

So I am about to add Raptor Headers to my 3.6R. I wanted to make a custom catless Y-pipe, but after asking numerous shops I got pricing estimates of $300 to $500 to have a custom Y-pipe made in Stainless Steel. I figured there had to be a less expensive approach.

 

I came across a Catless Y-pipe from Megan Racing for the Nissan 350Z. It cost me $160 shipped. I bolted headers to see what kind of modifications were needed. The Y-pipe needed to be narrowed about 4 inches. So we cut out ~2" from each runner and I had it rewelded. Am going to attempt install on Thursday. Sometimes we have to get creative to get parts for the 3.6R and I feel this is one of those times.

Looks good, except no cats (?). Bring on the rasp!

Would be good to add the stock/stock-like bracket that holds the y-pipe in place as well.

 

Get some resonator on the mid-pipe while you're at it (otherwise drone galore regardless of catback setup).

 

Make sure to locate your front AFR/lambda sensors EXACTLY in their stock positions (distance relative from the exhaust ports) otherwise you and your tuner/s will be stock in an infinite loop with getting the tune right. Turn off fueling contributions from the rear O2 sensors (AF Learn/Correct #3/4) and disable all Rear O2 sensor related codes if you plan to run catless, o2-less or even if you install 200-400 cell core cats.

Edited November 28, 2017 by Perscitus

So I am about to add Raptor Headers to my 3.6R. I wanted to make a custom catless Y-pipe, but after asking numerous shops I got pricing estimates of $300 to $500 to have a custom Y-pipe made in Stainless Steel. I figured there had to be a less expensive approach.

 

I came across a Catless Y-pipe from Megan Racing for the Nissan 350Z. It cost me $160 shipped. I bolted headers to see what kind of modifications were needed. The Y-pipe needed to be narrowed about 4 inches. So we cut out ~2" from each runner and I had it rewelded. Am going to attempt install on Thursday. Sometimes we have to get creative to get parts for the 3.6R and I feel this is one of those times.

 

Nice work. What is the pipe O.D.? Could you take some finished dimensions, like width between pipes, over all length, etc? Did the collector flanges on the head line up with Y-pipe?

 

Can't wait to see it installed!

Looks good, except no cats (?). Bring on the rasp!

Would be good to add the stock/stock-like bracket that holds the y-pipe in place as well.

 

Get some resonator on the mid-pipe while you're at it (otherwise drone galore regardless of catback setup).

 

Make sure to locate your front AFR/lambda sensors EXACTLY in their stock positions (distance relative from the exhaust ports) otherwise you and your tuner/s will be stock in an infinite loop with getting the tune right. Turn off fueling contributions from the rear O2 sensors (AF Learn/Correct #3/4) and disable all Rear O2 sensor related codes if you plan to run catless, o2-less or even if you install 200-400 cell core cats.

 

 

Yes I am tuning currently with XRT. I will place AFR sensors as close to stock position as possible. I believe Ed said he should be able to disable O@ sensors.

 

I am looking at making a custom bracket to mount to stock location. Also this will not bolt directly to the stock exhaust.

 

I will be running a stock STi catback with STi mufflers. I plan on installing a second STi resonator to make up for the distance. Should hopefully be pretty quiet.

 

As for the Piping on the midpipe. It has 2.5" flanges to connect to the headers and a 3' flange to connect to the exhaust. I purchased the Grimmspeed 3" downpipe to STi stock catback adapter and donut to link the two. Piping is 2.5" im pretty sure.

On the Factory Five 818 Forum, there are 4-5 guys building 818s with an H6. Some are to be 818S as a DD, and some are 818R for track/racing. I'd love to see some cross-pollination between the Legacy H6 experts from here and what the 818 guys are doing.

 

If your interested in following or chipping in that would be great. Here's an example pic of Hobby Racer's 818R build:

 

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77187&d=1511823451

 

His build thread is http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build. Most of the other guys building H6 818s are in the thread too but have separate build threads.

Quick question about PRS LWCP. For the people still using it, are they just replacing the crank seal periodically ? Or has everyone just removed it and put the OEM back on.

 

I ask because I'm still using it for the last 2 years or so. Had a issue with my belt coming off the pulleys last night due to rusted ball bearings. This brought to light the crank seal. I've tried to check the thread for a more definitive answer.

Its perfectly fine on most non-boosted 3.6Rs. You can continue to use it if you choose.

No issue with seals on most cars that have it installed either.

 

The belt itself is interesting because at it turns out there are at least three (slightly longer/shorter) part numbers that fit the car. Both OE and aftermarket.

 

I've gone with the slightly shorter belt and replaced the tensioner pulley while at it.

 

Stock pulley is best, wish we had a Fluidmpr option but my buddies in West NY don't want to play nice and likely will never develop it for this engine.

I give you your little friends:

 

4060638 is ideal, pairs best with a shiny new OE tensioner pulley.

 

4060640 is ok, but a tad loose. Passable for stock crank pulley.

 

4060642 is too loose for both, even though its OE spec and length.

Within spec Subaru, right...

Edited March 10, 2018 by Perscitus

Fiona can use these new Continental belts too

Just different size. Guaranteed +10WHP on top of E99 tune lol

I will need a new motor before I need a new belt...

 

Next motor build

Are you just accepting that as fact, or is that a goal now?

Are you just accepting that as fact, or is that a goal now?

 

rotfl

 

with some care, the built motor may last 30k to 50k...mmmmmmay. It got a brand new belt when built.

Im new to The Forum but have owned a 2014 2.5 and now a 2012 3.6 for a few years now.... I just now wanted to start modding it a little bit. I started with the Takeda intake which lasted about a week because I didn't really notice much of a difference and it just seemed way too loud. I still have it but not sure if I want to try again or just sell it

If you look at the first post, you will see dyno proof of gains.

 

If you want the most HP, you may try my setup or Perscitus' setup for the Takeda.

 

Noise is a personal thing so you decide.

Im new to The Forum but have owned a 2014 2.5 and now a 2012 3.6 for a few years now.... I just now wanted to start modding it a little bit. I started with the Takeda intake which lasted about a week because I didn't really notice much of a difference and it just seemed way too loud. I still have it but not sure if I want to try again or just sell it

 

Sell it. Not worth the noise and/or hassle to tune.

 

Best 3.6r mods for the money to make good gains are in this order:

 

-Basic maintenance

-Suspension: 26mm Front bar, 13-14 Springs and dampers, Whileline 22m rear bar as a basic daily package, go wild from there.

-Tune

-Raptor Headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe and a Tune

-Raptor supercharger, headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe and a Tune

-Raptor supercharger, headers, high flow cats & Y-pipe, cat back and a Tune

-Custom build spending a ton of cash to have a hot 3.6r.

 

See XRT for a tune.

Edited March 12, 2018 by nads

Perscitus, I'm glad you posted about the belt because I'm gonna be in need of one soon, along with replacement of the squawker under the hood.

Re subbed

Ok I need a new gasket for the header between header and cats. I spent 45 min at auto zone looking at gaskets and found one that was close a Hyundai Elantra v6 but it's blown out now any help please

 

I'm looking to source a pair of these domestically myself.

Has anyone found a fit in the US?

Im new to The Forum but have owned a 2014 2.5 and now a 2012 3.6 for a few years now.... I just now wanted to start modding it a little bit. I started with the Takeda intake which lasted about a week because I didn't really notice much of a difference and it just seemed way too loud. I still have it but not sure if I want to try again or just sell it

 

Takeda is a pain...tuning it can be a pain too, just get an XRT tune for gains to start and for more power look into the exhaust.

I'm looking to source a pair of these domestically myself.

Has anyone found a fit in the US?

 

It appears to be one piece. A typical shop will use an exhaust sealer which should work fine. If you go aftermarket its much easier as when mine blew out I just grabbed a few vibrants and was good to go