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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Don't think it needs to be a completely pristine deck, check the pics of the finished surfaces here:

 

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/tsb/cylinder_head_gasket.pdf

 

I think you get down to the point where the remainder of the material is in the lay of the surface finish, so the surface needs to be cut, or maybe soaked out in solvent, to get it completely clean.

 

That white disk they recommend will get it but also visibly affected the surface, so I used it sparingly. A local Subaru tech also recommended the green grade 60 bristle discs to me as a better option.

 

 

 

Just saying, that directions to clean the surfaces was printed by the makers of engine that are known to have HG issues.

 

Any good machine shop can prep the surfaces much better.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I'm glad to not be afraid of opening the a.c. system and never having it work again as a result. It's a good skill and tool set to have.

It's funny, I got my EPA 609 nearly 20 years ago, for the sole purpose of buying R-12 which at the time was $20/can in private transactions. I then provided the cans to the shop fixing my 4runner's A/C rather than have them charge me $75/can, so the certification paid for itself immediately. Until this weekend I had not actually done any A/C work because none of my other vehicles have needed any.

 

A few weeks ago I took the LGT to a local shop to look it over and verify where the leak was. I told them I was 99% certain there's a hole in the condenser due to the obvious rock impacts in the morning (two chips in the windshield as well) followed by total loss of cold air on my drive home that afternoon. So they evacuated and added UV dye with the recharge, but told me the system was holding pressure in their shop, blowing cold air and they didn't see any dye coming out, so they gave me the car back without replacing the condenser and told me to let them know if it fails again. You can guess how long that lasted.:spin:

I drove the car for a bit while it was making cold air then inspected things with my own UV lights. Sure enough, a faint circular cloud of glowing dye on the condenser perfectly surrounding a rock ding in one of the crosstubes. Not sure how the shop missed that. :confused:

 

Pondered my course of action while not needing the LGT over my July 4th vacation week, and quickly reasoned that I could buy the proper tools and parts and do the replacement myself for less than half the cost of hiring it out. More tools and skills for me, less money paid to other people. Especially once I got the manifold gauges on it with the leaky condenser still in place. Holding pressure, my ass. Pulled a vac and slowly but surely it started leaking back up to atmospheric pressure (pinhole sized leak) which they would have known had they followed proper procedures. Just reinforces my DIY bias. If my time is going to be wasted, I prefer to waste it myself rather than have it wasted by others. :lol:

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That lesson brought me here loooong ago.. Paid for itself in ways that don't have a price tag.

 

This site was way different back in the day fwiw. Active membership was much higher, and there were some characters, ie - assholes. It was legit entertainment coming here before everything else came along with the internet.

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15 years ago last month LGT.com launched. The amount of knowledge and information on this site is amazing and it's just growing everyday.
- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Same one I got... can you post some pics? What is it about it you hate at times?

 

Sorry for the slow reply.

 

I dont like how flat it looks from a side-profile. It comes off of the car a little too flat for my taste. Plus I absolutely love a wingless LGT.

 

The duckbill is an gorgeous piece of CF though. I have some other CF bits and it compliments them well. Looks good from the back and any 3/4 angle of the car.

 

Its been installed for about a year now and shows no wear and tear, although I only put about 1600 miles on the car.

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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If I was doing only the dash, I would probably estimate ~2hrs for removal and the same for putting a new one back in. You could probably do it faster, but that's my estimate with little/no damage to parts.

Perfect and thank you! I will wait for my part source guy to find a nice 09 dash and do the conversion. :)

 

j.

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^^^ Just gonna throw this out there for you to ponder. Since you are planning to have the dash out anyway, might be worth your while to listen critically around the driver's footwell/dash area, while you manipulate the climate control system, for any noises that could be coming from the driver's side air mix actuator. Those things commonly fail with age/miles. To me, the saved PITA would definitely have been worth the cost of the part to replace it preemptively "while I'm in there," instead of spending most of a day disassembling and reassembling the car in order to restore functioning heat in the middle of winter.

 

 

 

Did an oil change with T6 and a Mazda Tokyo Roki filter last night. Replaced the air filter and cleaned the MAF. Also sent a set of injectors out for cleaning & flow testing. Idle is a touch rough, and it has been about 100K miles since I last had the injectors serviced.

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I really should watch this thread, so many goodies get posted in between the everyday chatter. Maybe the forum should have like based notification scale, if a post gets 3+ likes then send me notification :lol:

 

Managed to figure out how to clone the code from my original ECM to a replacement ECM. Mucking around with a hex editor, realized that the "secret code" was my VIN number... :spin: Also means that I can now read the VIN from an ECM to know what car it came from, which could be useful.

 

It took a while, and I had to pull info from several different sources to finally get it working. But really didn't want to pay the dealer to do it. I can try to write it up if people think it might be helpful. It was about $30 in parts and a bunch of time to figure out the software and drivers.

 

[ATTACH]277187[/ATTACH]

 

This is really cool! I'm assuming your doing this to replace the ECU without needing dealer to program in the keys right? I have two spare 06 ECU's that are bricks, but I would love to use them if mine turns into a brick again (thanks to rad fan recall).

 

Now I've seen some cars, Mini Coopers, which were able to use ECU Flash to reprogram the immobilizer keys. This told me that it's at least possible to use flashing software for some ECU's, not sure how ours fare to it.

 

Went to a LKQ for the first time today. Both outbacks they had were complete trashed so I didn’t get much, but I did manage to grab a few clips and things I needed.

 

Over the last three days my car has started to seriously pull fuel. As in I’m -12% across the A, B, and C ranges. Watching trims while driving it gets up to the 20’s or as low as zero net pulled though. Fuel pressure looks fine idling (34 psi), and the meth system isn’t showing flow when it shouldn’t, so I’m stumped on what could cause it to go negative like this. An air leak should cause the trims to go positive. A bad O2 sensor would show up as a delta between the OEM and AEM sensor.

 

Only changes in the last few days were installing the new boost controller on the EWG, and adding some MMT based octane booster for additional knock margin while tuning it.

 

This really does sound like what I experienced with MAF wires getting loose over time. Especially the variations I would see every time I would unplug the MAF to do another change. Remember how spark plug changes would really screw with my g/rev's? :lol:

 

Presuming I don't find something physically wrong, that would be my guess. I had to readjust the turbo inlet when doing the EWG plumbing which necessitated moving the Grimmspeed intake a little. If the wiring is starting to go, that slight movment may have caused an issue.

 

Covertrussian had similar issues when doing inlet testing where he though the had to rescale the MAF, which 100% should not be needing for changes upstream of it. Subaru kind of cheaps out on there wires that have lots of movment (see wagon hatch issues).

 

So if the MAF ground went high resistance, it should cause the MAFv reading to go up (output is referenced to ground, ground is ~0.1v higher than ecu ground, ECU sees a 0.1v higher signal).

 

Not looking forward to rewiring the MAF harness if that is infact what happened though... Finding the correct shielded signal wire will be a pain.

 

Does the GS intake position the MAF a little too far (too stretched?) Or is it related to the box being a little too small?

 

It really does seem like Subaru connectors and female receptacles are prone to stretching. I've owned a bunch of ~2000 Nissan's and I've never had to recrimp the pins so many times.

 

 

Today: ordered new MAF connector, a spare MAF, and some connectors for relocating the IAT sensor into the throttle body hose when I rewire everything. I have one there now, but it’s just used for logging. Need to change the ECU input so it will adjust timing based on it.

 

I'm really curious on your post IC IAT setup once your done! :)

05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD)

12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct

00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg

22 Ascent STOCK

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15 years ago last month LGT.com launched. The amount of knowledge and information on this site is amazing and it's just growing everyday.

 

Hey that's about the time I joined.

 

Oh, need to update my sig too, wagon rolled over 277,000 miles last evening at the Shell Station.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Hey that's about the time I joined.

 

Oh, need to update my sig too, wagon rolled over 277,000 miles last evening at the Shell Station.

 

 

Max you're an inspiration. I am ticking over 238k and climbing now that the car is on the road after the 7 month refresh.

Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing

Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread

Steering Rack Rebuild

 

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Buddy found me while out running some errands with the wife yesterday.

 

Unfortunately, about 3 miles out from home the turbo started making a barking sound anytime I would get into boost (2-7 PSI) and lifted off the throttle. I got on it a little and noticed it would over-boost but no CELs were thrown and the car would act perfectly fine idling and driving out of boost.

 

Only thing I've had time to do is check to make sure all the vacuum lines are are connected which they are and AFR ratio/learning/correction were within the norm. :spin:

1.thumb.jpg.e458dbbd805255d0660024b7d6766eb8.jpg

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It might be, I took it out tonight and I think I narrowed it down to the boost control solenoid.

 

First couple take offs from a stop with normal/moderate acceleration and the car acted perfectly normal. Boost built normally and the bov (full re-circ) sounded normal. Once the car got up to temp I did some harder pulls and it's odd but the bov sound would change from how it normally sounds at any PSI. It wasn't the same barking as yesterday but still noticeably different from normal. No flutter or compressor surge sounds, it would just change pitch and tone. Final hard pull I did, peak boost was 12 PSI in 1st, 18.75 in 2nd.

 

Recently got pro-tuned this past Saturday and peak boost is set to 17. If it does end up being the boost solenoid it would be hilariously ironic as he mentioned he could have gotten a little more out of it if I had a 3 port controller. Made sure to log the whole drive so I can get my tuners opinion.

datalog6.csv

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I really should watch this thread, so many goodies get posted in between the everyday chatter. Maybe the forum should have like based notification scale, if a post gets 3+ likes then send me notification :lol:

 

 

 

This is really cool! I'm assuming your doing this to replace the ECU without needing dealer to program in the keys right? I have two spare 06 ECU's that are bricks, but I would love to use them if mine turns into a brick again (thanks to rad fan recall).

 

Now I've seen some cars, Mini Coopers, which were able to use ECU Flash to reprogram the immobilizer keys. This told me that it's at least possible to use flashing software for some ECU's, not sure how ours fare to it.

 

 

It's not really the keys from what I understand. It's that there are three parts of the system that all need matching VIN numbers in their electronics. The gauge cluster, the BIU (on the steering column), and the ECM.

 

I didn't want to pay the dealer (Memphis dealer wanted $375 for it), so I decided to figure out how to clone my VIN to the replacement ECM.

 

I made a little more details post about it here:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/clone-your-immobilizer-chip-replacement-ecm-ecu-279426.html

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Got a good start this morning.

Had my older son helping today.

Pulled the engine and tranny together, it was a challenge, but can be done.

 

IMG_6415.thumb.JPG.bde6d680820ed17875398a0cfbc31f79.JPG

 

I was hoping the clutch would be in better shape, but it's just about down to the rivets. But I could tell this driving it back from TX, so I picked up a south bend clutch that was barely broke in. The clutch in the LGT was about out as well, so I'm looking forward to a new(er) clutch that I don't have to baby.

 

IMG_6418.thumb.JPG.247b8bc7dfdb7a107aaecc05c318d61d.JPG

 

Good ole dual mass flywheel, sucker is heavy. Managed to get all the torx bolts out cleanly. I have replacement hex bolts for the SMFW that matches the new(er) clutch.

 

IMG_6419.thumb.JPG.4c5061de333b175299aef697d1356a1e.JPG

 

So, the accident that messed up the front end pressed the front of the frame rail into the timing belt cover cracking it. Didn't hear any noise so figured it wasn't enough to be rubbing.

 

IMG_6426.thumb.JPG.943d454e4486b39782e138d0f3a06ce8.JPG

 

Wrong. It was definitely rubbing, worn the inside a good bit and thinned out the belt. So close to just ruining the whole thing. Glad I didn't have to drive it any further to get it home.

 

IMG_6423.thumb.JPG.aa7a20ff3d64d515f345d8ada794d4be.JPG

 

IMG_6424.thumb.JPG.0385dd3daceea16717da8333b6c2fb1b.JPG

 

Heat index of >100 degrees most of the day, I think I lost a few pounds...

But by the end of the day, I had the engine, transmission, drive shaft, rear diff, and all the axles. Without all that underneath, it's pretty bare and empty.

 

IMG_6432.thumb.JPG.e71eca4e77cab0dcd240113c7692ae6f.JPG

 

The poor donor outback now looks lifted with all that weight removed. :lol:

 

IMG_6431.thumb.JPG.256bdacec9f53afca751ad08a4a9bf19.JPG

 

It's taking longer because I'm at my in-laws and am working hard to keep everything clean for them to not stress them out.

I have a couple things that I picked up to treat myself for all the hours I'm putting into this. More on that later.

Edited by Infosecdad
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After the new addition of a 3rd little man to my already amazing family, I unfortunately have decided to sell the wagon. Need a new(er) Yukon XL for the wife and 3 car seats and the dog. Gonna keep the MDX and run it into the ground so I can also cart the fam around when we don’t take road trips. New toy to come in the next few years

 

Thanks for the great experience on here. The majority are a buncha good dudes with alotta knowledge. Much appreciated

 

Car is on NASIOC classifieds.

IMG_5074.thumb.jpg.f3626db57e1629248cf0b5308e820fdc.jpg

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After the new addition of a 3rd little man to my already amazing family, I unfortunately have decided to sell the wagon. Need a new(er) Yukon XL for the wife and 3 car seats and the dog. Gonna keep the MDX and run it into the ground so I can also cart the fam around when we don’t take road trips. New toy to come in the next few years

 

Thanks for the great experience on here. The majority are a buncha good dudes with alotta knowledge. Much appreciated

 

Car is on NASIOC classifieds.

[ATTACH]277507[/ATTACH]

 

Good luck with the family. Nice looking wagon, should move fast.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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^^^ Just gonna throw this out there for you to ponder. Since you are planning to have the dash out anyway, might be worth your while to listen critically around the driver's footwell/dash area, while you manipulate the climate control system, for any noises that could be coming from the driver's side air mix actuator. Those things commonly fail with age/miles. To me, the saved PITA would definitely have been worth the cost of the part to replace it preemptively "while I'm in there," instead of spending most of a day disassembling and reassembling the car in order to restore functioning heat in the middle of winter.

 

This is very true. After replacing the mode and passenger actuator, I had my dash replaced under warranty. I'm kicking myself for not telling them to replace the driver actuator. It's now randomly clicking at 65° and only stops when I crank it up to 85° and back down again. Even then it's not guaranteed to stop the clicking. Oh well

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Mine did the groaning & clicking routine for a solid couple of years, maybe 50K-60K miles, before it stopped working altogether. Maybe you have some time, maybe not. LOL

Maybe you'll get lucky and it will die at some mid-point in its range that is semi-tolerable. Mine died at full cold in December. Best I could do was set the passenger side for full hot and the air to recirc. The cabin would slowly get a bit warmer but my feet were always cold. Never had to deal with such malarkey on my older cars with manual climate controls.

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15 years ago last month LGT.com launched. The amount of knowledge and information on this site is amazing and it's just growing everyday.

 

And this site has been just about the best resource for everything that I've done to my specB!

 

SC

1994 Legacy MI

2008 Legacy GT specB

2023 Crosstrek Limited

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After the new addition of a 3rd little man to my already amazing family, I unfortunately have decided to sell the wagon. Need a new(er) Yukon XL for the wife and 3 car seats and the dog. Gonna keep the MDX and run it into the ground so I can also cart the fam around when we don’t take road trips. New toy to come in the next few years

 

Thanks for the great experience on here. The majority are a buncha good dudes with alotta knowledge. Much appreciated

 

Car is on NASIOC classifieds.

[ATTACH]277507[/ATTACH]

 

Sex on wheels! Damn that wagon is beautiful!! :wub:

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After the new addition of a 3rd little man to my already amazing family, I unfortunately have decided to sell the wagon. Need a new(er) Yukon XL for the wife and 3 car seats and the dog. Gonna keep the MDX and run it into the ground so I can also cart the fam around when we don’t take road trips. New toy to come in the next few years

 

Thanks for the great experience on here. The majority are a buncha good dudes with alotta knowledge. Much appreciated

 

Car is on NASIOC classifieds.

[ATTACH]277507[/ATTACH]

 

Congrats on the new addition, sorry the wagon will be gone, you will miss it!

 

If you're looking at new make sure you check out 2018-19 Expedition Max, GM hasn't changed much on the Yukon in years. Check out the 3rd row floor for normal sized human seating you'll be surprised at the diff. GL with everything.

 

I'm still running a 2001 MDX with 220k (knock on wood ) its been great.

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After the new addition of a 3rd little man to my already amazing family, I unfortunately have decided to sell the wagon. Need a new(er) Yukon XL for the wife and 3 car seats and the dog. Gonna keep the MDX and run it into the ground so I can also cart the fam around when we don’t take road trips. New toy to come in the next few years

 

Thanks for the great experience on here. The majority are a buncha good dudes with alotta knowledge. Much appreciated

 

Car is on NASIOC classifieds.

[ATTACH]277507[/ATTACH]

 

Super clean wagon! Sort of surprised you priced it at 10.5, but I get it. We are lucky if we get 50% of what we put into our cars back. If a wagon like this one had been available when I was shopping around I most definitely would have picked it up.

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(stupid quote thing still giving me problems)

 

 

selling car

 

 

Damn! After that build it's sad to see you getting rid of her. Wish I could fork over what you want for it... start a wagon collection and a LGT collection. It was beautifully done.

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