What did you do to your Outback today? V3

I didn't think to get a picture. I was using a borescope as its in a pretty tight location as I am sure you already know. It looks like a weep had been there for a while that turned into a drip. It's pretty grimy. Clamp is on the hose and it seems like the hose itself is intact.

170k miles on the chassis, about 34k on the engine. My son gave it to me about a year ago. Previous owner (some Subaru repair shop in Broomfield Colorado) said they had replaced the turbo when they did the short block.

So you are referring to that drain hose below the turbo? I think it is good measure to just change it. They get hard overtime and tend to leak. I just bought one actually not long ago. ~10$ I think. Have yet to change it.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gates-TL108-Turbocharger-Oil-Return-Line-for-807515712-TL108-Turbo-yi/292531942215?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I've seen the gasket on that hose as a thin paper material and a thin metal gasket. I changed mine a little while ago. Since it's at the bottom, oil and grime will gather there regardless if that's the source of the leak or not. After changing mine, I realized that that wasn't the source of the problem. I think in my case, it was blowby recirc from a leaky turbo inlet.

 

Here's a link to an ebay listing for one:

 

https://www.ebay.com/p/Subaru-OEM-04-14-Impreza-Turbocharger-oil-Outlet-Tube-Gasket-15196AA070/1611322218?iid=202565178359&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=202565178359&targetid=539174489675&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031113&poi=&campaignid=1881303751&mkgroupid=70803274795&rlsatarget=aud-622524042678:pla-539174489675&abcId=1139336&merchantid=114706547&gclid=CjwKCAjwqZPrBRBnEiwAmNJsNsyEuQ8FuO39MXJaFrBwmIgddfKOIfOj4-Qn-rRjrjOPmdxkY6qXhRoCGLQQAvD_BwE

 

 

And yes, it's a good idea to change the hose while you have the turbo out. And also a good idea to use worm clamps instead of the spring clamps on that hose.

Edited August 27, 2019 by lil'redwagon

Thanks for the info guys.

Xt2005bonbon- I appreciate the link to the correct hose. Looks like maybe 3/8 or 5/16 i.d. hose. I've got several different sizes of fuel line that will probably work. It's a flanged connection to hose barb at the underside of the turbo. I was referring to the gasket for the flange.

Lil'redwagon- I think I have some copper sheet I will use as a gasket based on what you have said and the link you shared. I have some other options as well so we will see. I'll have to see how thick the flange is to estimate clamping force to see if the copper will work. I will definitely change to worm clamps instead of spring. Hopefully the turbo to downpipe and exhaust bolts don't give me fits. Can't be tight if it's liquid though. Hopefully it won't come to that.

So far though, I have to say this Subaru is very easy to work on. I have done pretty much all repair work on my vehicles save for auto transmission rebuilds since I started driving 30 years ago and honestly I wish I had picked up a Subaru sooner. Besides, I smoked a mustang with a water heater and a toilet from Lowes in the back. That's pretty cool.

Thanks again

I'll post results after I get it fixed Sunday.

Sounds like you are pretty serious in taking care of your car. Then, on the ECU side, you should get acquainted with the BtSsm app made by a fellow forum member. It is a GREAT app giving you access to the ECU params on your Android phone/tablet.

 

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-bluetooth-adapter-app-v-2-267811.html

The parts counter guy at Subaru mentioned the Cobb accessport back when I first got the car. I didn't want to pay $600 or whatever ridiculous price they are, so I bought a broken accessport v3 that was unlocked for $35 and 2 locked v3's (broken as well) and Cobbled (haha see what I did there) one good ap together for a grand total of about $91. Gotta love ebay. I did grumpily pay $180 for the eh so so training to allow the Access Tuner Race download. I haven't done much except look see and change radiator fan set points.

BtSsm looks great and appeals to me more. I wish I had found it before the Cobb stuff. I have read a bunch of the FAQS I have found here and there and I believe I will be switching over at some point.

For now the cobb is meeting my immediate needs mostly.

Good looking out though.

Again thank you all. Very much appreciated.

Good to hear. Then, on top of my head, a couple of things you can watch out for if you don't know already:

--misfire per cylinder especially during cold idle. Carefully check if any. Do the same on warm idle.

--The VVT or (OCV) angles should always be in sync (these engines have two of these). This indicates that they are properly working. Additionally, you can surmise that oil delivery is adequate to the turbo. You may already know that there are two banjo bolts with filters in them. They tend to get clogged (if the car has not been taken care of) and kill the turbo and then the engine with it at times. These banjo bolt filters are in line with these OCV units. So, if you still have the filters in place and the VVT angles remain in sync while you drive, then you can assume the filters are good.

--check your long term fuel trims and see that they remain close to 0%, like +/-5%, across the board. You have four of these, each covering different driving conditions.

--finally, knock. You probably know about this already. Just keep an eye on feedback knock correction. Hopefully, you rarely have these. This will result in an IAM of 1 (which is good).

OCV are my pet peeve. These should be changed at 100K with the belt as normal service.

At this point I've replaced them twice. They were failing on me after 120K the first time.

On a different note, been preparing mentally to swap my short block on the 05. Pretty sure the ringland/rings are toast on the driver side.

This youtube channel is motivating me! This guy is doing such a good job. Here is one of their videos.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwj-R5IOwhw]Relaxing ASMR Engine Build l Subi-Performance - YouTube[/ame]

Edited August 28, 2019 by xt2005bonbon

Have been enjoying his content.

Your in for some fun. Get some bags and containers to keep things labeled by system group as it comes off. This way you can have all the bits needed when going back together.

Just don't wait two years like I did and everything should be easy to remember.

It's not that bad. I have done it over the course of about 15 hours of work total time. I'd have your heads gone through though while they are off.

 

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

Yeah. This time, I will make sure the work goes quick. And yeah, organization is key for a smooth rebuild.

 

What do you guys think about this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-WRX-STI-EJ257-COMPLETE-SHORTBLOCK-ARP-ROD-BOLT-NPR-PISTONS-OIL-WATER-PUMP/273844308285

 

More specifically, these NPR pistons. Never really heard of these. Not much info on the internet. Supposed to be a slight upgrade from stock.

Never hears of NPR pistons. But you can go to subaru and buy a new shortblock for about 2k. If you aren't going for stupid power, stock pistons really aren't that bad. Or you could get the short block from Subaru and swap the psitons with the Manley? Drop in A B pistons

 

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

Meh. Go Outfront or IAG for the SB options of your choice. What killed me on my rebuild was waiting for machine shops. Heads are a must. It's apart. Clean it up while in this state.

Good to hear. Then, on top of my head, a couple of things you can watch out for if you don't know already:

--misfire per cylinder especially during cold idle. Carefully check if any. Do the same on warm idle.

--The VVT or (OCV) angles should always be in sync (these engines have two of these). This indicates that they are properly working. Additionally, you can surmise that oil delivery is adequate to the turbo. You may already know that there are two banjo bolts with filters in them. They tend to get clogged (if the car has not been taken care of) and kill the turbo and then the engine with it at times. These banjo bolt filters are in line with these OCV units. So, if you still have the filters in place and the VVT angles remain in sync while you drive, then you can assume the filters are good.

--check your long term fuel trims and see that they remain close to 0%, like +/-5%, across the board. You have four of these, each covering different driving conditions.

--finally, knock. You probably know about this already. Just keep an eye on feedback knock correction. Hopefully, you rarely have these. This will result in an IAM of 1 (which is good).

 

Great information. I read your post this morning and watched my avcs and they were in sync. I had checked the turbo banjo on the oil feed and it had already been removed. I am hoping that the shop that installed the motor before I got the car made sure they were all removed when installing the new short block. I am having a few other weird issues that I will start another thread for to ask some questions.

 

Looks like I may have to delay pulling the turbo. Hurricane headed my way.

Stay safe! Hunker Down!

Last weekend had a 18 limited sedan for a rental for a good 600+miles through Wyoming and Colorado. Torquey enough through the mountains, along with the eyesight, it made for a great ride. Stereo too was legit. Now thoughts of an 18-19 are on my radar for the outback. I can't imagine the difference a 3.6r with a tune would be for some extra fun compared to my 3.0.

Glad my girlfriend was excited, I think she's coming around to why I love Subarus so much.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

This was delivered yesterday.

 

 

Alltrack SE DSG

 

The OB will be going back to (mostly) stock. You know, stock with forged pistons. And at some point someone will take her away and I'll say adeiu: thank you for taking such good care of us.

Edited August 31, 2019 by rebourne

You will regret it if you let her go. I bet you

Today I changed the oil and swapped out my cooling fans for sti 9 blade fans. I was getting some whine from the right fan and the motor was running hot hot. I figured the stis might be an upgrade. They do definitely move more air than the originals (maybe it's that the motors are fresher). Tid bit of information- the '09 sti 9 blade fan assemblies are about .75" shallower mounting depth than the '09 obxt assemblies. Also, the connectors on the sti fans are female, whereas the obxt's are male. Nothing a little heat shrink and solder can't fix though.

I also started disassembly of a 2015 sti steering rack I picked up on OfferUp for $60. It is an OEM unit that was leaking badly from the input shaft. The guy I got it from bought the car used 6 months ago and had it replaced with a reman unit and never got around to repairing it. Input shaft seals are $26. Maybe I fix and sell? Fix and install? Dunno yet.

Honestly, I would have rather delved into pulling the turbo today, but I am on call for the week at work now. The hurricane has messed my work schedule up quite a bit and it's not even going to affect us hardly on it's current track. That's the sensibility of a governmental institution for you.

Drained coolant and removed failed oem radiator. Last week, the radiator started leaking coolant at the seam of the top plastic end tank. And it was leaking pretty bad! After a careful check, it appears the aluminium fins holding the aluminium core to the plastic end tank no longer provided a secure clamping force. Felt like if I could 'bulletproof' it (as I did to the intercooler), it would be fine.

Then thought of checking the 06 radiator just for fun. And started to see a smear of coolant around the same area . So folks, carefully check that area. I'll provide a video later.

Also changing lower/upper hoses, both caps, and thermostat.

Swapped out front and rear OEM swaybar bushings.

Contemplated doing more, but I am still on call for work and I don't want to get to far into something.

Started thread in tuning section detailing my FBK issues.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/chasing-feedback-knock-w-logs-280265.html

 

xt2005bonbon - I found the Koyorad aluminium radiators to be pretty high quality and work well. I replaced mine about 4 months ago with Koyorad PN- VHO91662

yeah. Maybe I should have bought one of these. I just bought a TYC radiator (oem clone) instead, with an OEM thermostat (78C), and oem hoses. Have yet to finish putting that stuff in, cause I finally went ahead and swapped my good old vf40 with a jmp vf52 . Man, what a pain that is to swap turbos. But at the same time, can't wait to feel it (on a semi busted engine ).

 

Next week while I am at it, I will flush the heater core. I hope it will fix the passenger side heat/cold issues we've been having for the past 10 years...

 

One more thing: crazy coincidence but the 06 is starting to have the EXACT same issue (failing radiator at the top seam). I cannot believe it... Better hurry to fix the other car before this one starts to leak coolant like crazy.

Flushed the heater core yesterday. Installed the radiator and fans too.

Put some valvoline zerex coolant. Used the no spill coolant funnel. First time I actually burped a turbo subie and it went very well. Did not need to raise the car and stuff. Zero issue and zero spill! Car runs fine, but I am almost positive I do have a busted ringland most likely on #4 . Looking at options in terms of which shortblock to get..

Did some silly stuff with my Outback last weekend. Namely the Optima Ultimate Street Car Challenge

 

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2ejhsvltno/?igshid=ojx9dsis15ju

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2hFavDFanD/?igshid=fgb4jmcp0mtq

Edited September 18, 2019 by dukeneverwinter