5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

built motor and blouch 1.5, running ethanol? think it'll be ok with this?

 

 

No.

 

If your building the engine, and going with a larger turbo and E, you can spend the $800 to build the transmission too.

I would definitely build the auto. one more clutch pack max for first 3 gears n a hexmods VB, brass sleeves for center diff gears, cryo and shot peening etc if you can afford and want to go the extra mile

BtSsm just added TCU logging / monitoring capability to their app. You can't simultaneously watch the ECU and TCU, but you can set up a car profile for either. Easy way to watch some of the TCU fields without needing a laptop.

Not so much about the money, I mean not that I love to spend it but it's more or less the means of doing the actual work. I myself have no knowledge of transmissions and honestly don't care to learn on this particular car because I don't want to screw anything up. Looked at IPT and level ten transmission companies and just buying a damn built tranny but then it's a matter of getting it and having it put in the car. I believe IPT is in new Jersey and well I'm in kansas. So just trying to figure out a plan. How difficult are our transmissions to work on? Would any transmission shop be able to do torque converters, valve body upgrades etc without me having to worry too much about the work being done (of which I would worry no matter what but you get my point lol)

what's the nominal temperature range of the ATF fluid? Now that I can watch it with BtSsm, I'm trying to keep track of how it responds. I took my cooler off a couple years ago.

 

Also, what does it mean if there are bubbles on the dip stick when checking fluid? I've noticed in the past on occasion, maybe seeing a bubble or two on the dipstick when I check the fluid level. I always figured it was from the awkward angle for getting to the dipstick causing me to "pop" it back in a funny way and sloshing the fluid. but i was reading through a trans breakdown thread on another forum and one of the questions asked in the beginning was if there were bubbles on the dip stick.

 

note, it's not frothy or foamy, just a bubble or two.

what's the nominal temperature range of the ATF fluid?

 

I typically see around 180f, but I have a big external cooler with a dedicated 165f thermostat. I'm currious what people are seeing with the stock setup.

 

Most guides seem to suggest 160-220 as the aproprate temp range.

are your values coming from the pan sensor? I guess there's a couple. The one available in BtSsm is the pan sensor

 

I've started this thread:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-atf-fluid-discussion-thread-256463.html

 

I've been on the stock cooler for the last two years. I had the giant TruCool4454 for a long time, with no thermostat, and I ditched it when I had my engine rebuilt and ramped up the power and got the HexMods VB.

 

I'm watching ATF temp regularly now that I can with BtSsm to see how it responds in various kinds of driving. The max I've seen is in the 190s after a few hard pulls and then some mildly aggressive highway speed driving (accelerating semi frequently, locking/unlocking TC, etc). Otherwise I haven't seen it go over 175.

 

Basically I'm trying to figure out if I need to add a cooler.

 

I've seen that 160-220 number before as well. Someone else commented in another thread (the BtSsm one) that a 180*F reading in the pan is more likely over 200 in the TC, and brought up the question of should we be shooting for cooler pan readings to keep the spike/active use temperature lower?

I was using FreeSSM so the sensors were only vaguely labeled. There never was a big difference between them when I was looking at it, but it's kind of hard to stare at a laptop during a pull.

gotcha. maybe I'll add the internal TC temperature as well to see what the delta is.

I mean to my list of parameters to watch on BtSsm

Got the car back yesterday and tested the calculated torque table today. Multiplying the entire table by 1.2 makes a world of difference! Still breaking in the new block (and fixing stuff the shop broke) but this fixes some of the low throttle high boost situations the 5EAT can get into with smaller turbos.

What difference are you feeling?

What difference are you feeling?

 

1) Shift Speed: It's shifting faster than before in low/mid throttle applications. Not modded valve body sharp and fast, but there is a little bump when it shifts vs CVT smooth. Unfortunately this was not a fully blind test, but I had forgotten that I'd done this while chasing down another issue. Noticed it was shifting better before I consciously realized WHY.

 

2) Shift points: Car was getting into ~10PSI of boost sub 3k rpm while just farting around town before. Not exactly what you want during engine break in. After this is was downshifting before the manifold pressure got too high while driving up hills and such.

 

These are obviously just subjective observations. I'll try to actually log the difference once I get the car sorted. It's idling like garbage right now and there are some other strange issues.

for an 08 OBXT 5eat rear diff fluid, Valvoline has different synthetic 75w90s, how do you know which one you should use? do we need to use one for a GL-5 fluid?

I'm not aware of there being different versions. I just checked on their site and the differences come in if you want dino, blend, or full synthetic. It's the viscosity that matters, so just get 75w90 of whatever formulation you want. I went with the full synthetic.

Does the center diff and trans share the same fluid? I'm asking because my planet gears teeth are destroyed and so metal particals are probably everywhere. So I don't know the extent of repair and surgery I have to do besides rebuilding or buying a whole new center diff.

no

Does the center diff and trans share the same fluid? I'm asking because my planet gears teeth are destroyed and so metal particals are probably everywhere. So I don't know the extent of repair and surgery I have to do besides rebuilding or buying a whole new center diff.

 

Yes.

Does the center diff and trans share the same fluid? I'm asking because my planet gears teeth are destroyed and so metal particals are probably everywhere. So I don't know the extent of repair and surgery I have to do besides rebuilding or buying a whole new center diff.

 

Yes... Very much yes.

The center diff lives in ATF? I thought it was part of the front diff. Although, I suppose I have no reason to believe that.

 

edit: I see now. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-center-diffrential-bulletproofing-122946.html

Edited October 24, 2016 by cBax

well ive got to figure out now if ive got to take the trans out now to inspect it also since the metal bits probably passed through into the trans. ill post pics later after work of the planetary gears and the input shaft they are destroyed.

I'm getting a metallic rattling sound under the car coming from around the front of the transmission. It seems to be causing false knock.

 

Anyone have ideas on what is there that would cause that?