What did you do to your 2nd Generation Subaru today? - V3

I'm surprised with LWFW and LWP that you're not getting a CEL - I'm sure it's vibrating quite a bit. Usually not a good idea to install both.

Oh I never said that I didn't get a CEL! I taken the obd port connection out of the clips on the dash and have it tucked in behind the dash with the reader constantly plugged in. I run the torque app most of the time when I'm driving. Eventually I'll throw an old phone in there full time just for the display.

I typically get two misfire codes at a time (either 1&2 or 3&4). Typically throws the codes when I'm cruising at a constant rpm for awhile on the highway. The only time I see any real negative effects are coming to idle after pushing the clutch in and letting the revs drop when coming to a stop. It dips a bit low and then rebounds to about 740 rpm.

I can't say I'd do the combo again, but I'm not going to change it now, like how quickly it does rev up and the driveline feel with the flywheel is great.

I went with the SMFW on my 05 LGT and noticed immediately how much additional throttle I had to carry to keep everything moving smoothly in 4th and 5th. Now that I've switched out the 5MT for the 6MT, and am using an STI 6MT FW, I've gone with the GS LWCP. STI 6MTFW is heavier than the stock SMFW, but I wanted to lighten it up a bit, hence the GS LWCP.

On my 98 LGT I plan to add a GS LWCP, which seems to be a good balance between quick revs, smooth throttle and good inertial flow while driving. Could not abide by a stumbling, engine and rebound when I stop. Much better decel though, so there is that.

No, that wasn't me, but I will be getting rid of some of my EJ parts. I'm now at a point since our daughter was born where I can start devoting some time on the weekends to work on my cars. I'll be getting rid of engines, body parts, engine parts, etc. I also have a complete rolling shell (no engine or transmission) if you're interested. It's a 99 Limited with dual moonroofs. I'll let it go for cheap. All the electronics on it work, I just don't have time to put it back together. I bought it to replace my 99 L I sent to the junkyard and found out the harsh reality of Phase 1 and Phase 2 electronics, so it sat.

actually, i may be interested in a phase 1 ej25 that runs with EGR at a good price if you have any laying around... i wish i could get the 99 shell, but i already have to figure out how to get two spots in my driveway freed up as it is. an outback bumper would be another thing i would need eventually as well.

the longer i think about the list of stuff i may need the more i remember the projects on the list haha

actually, i may be interested in a phase 1 ej25 that runs with EGR at a good price if you have any laying around... i wish i could get the 99 shell, but i already have to figure out how to get two spots in my driveway freed up as it is. an outback bumper would be another thing i would need eventually as well.

 

the longer i think about the list of stuff i may need the more i remember the projects on the list haha

No worries about the shell. It's just going to sit there. I have no immediate plans for it and I was contemplating scrapping it. I PM'd you about the other stuff.

Over the weekend while driving on some primitive roads I got one front wheel into the wheel arch a bit. Never had that problem before and I suspect it was because of running without a front sway bar.

So today I wrestled that thing in there without taking the exhaust apart. It goes in a lot better if you put it in right way round, but it will go in backwards with the exhaust in place by taking one wheel off and popping one tierod end out.

Since I had it apart I decided to finally use my on car stud removal tool to replace all the front studs. The stock ones were always waaay too short for my aftermarket wheels. Then I used my bearing based on car stud installation tool to put ARP studs in.

Now that I know how easy it is to use those tools I'll finally get around to doing the back wheels as well.

No worries about the shell. It's just going to sit there. I have no immediate plans for it and I was contemplating scrapping it. I PM'd you about the other stuff.

ya, i PMed ya back on that PM too

Now that I know how easy it is to use those tools I'll finally get around to doing the back wheels as well.

Hey, my Forester needs a wheel stud on the front drivers side hub

No problem. Let me know when you want to meet up.

Yesterday threatened rain here. Bonking off tonight. Tomorrow my strut tower braces should show up so perhaps I'll get things sorted tomorrow night.

Got the strut braces both in.

Front: Whiteline KSB550.

Rear: Whiteline KSB586Q.

Both fit fine. I cut away some of the seam sealer for the front, and of course you have to cut the trim some to put the rear in.

+20 HP!!!!!!!!!!

Went out mudding with some of my students. We had had a ton of rain so we went out to one of their ranches, and I told them to show me anywhere anyone had ever gotten stuck. My GT made it through every spot including driving up to the rocker panels in water in the stock tank and putting it in park.

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Jeep driver: "Do you need help getting out of here?"

Me: "No, why do you ask?"

Jeep driver: "How did you get in here?"

Me: "Same way you just came in."

Jeep: "Really?"

Me: "Yep. I didn't even drag the bottom of the car on anything."

Jeep: "So there isn't another route in here?"

I've been running my wideband for a while and I think I know the reason for my power loss near redline. Assuming the sensor is working right I'm getting about 10:1 fairly suddenly at the top end. The only reason I can see for this is that I'm getting an intake resonance up there that is giving me artificially high MAF readings and therefor too much fuel.

I calculate that theoretical max g/s air at my altitude at 6000rpm would be 113 and I'm measuring 108 at about 5750 rpm or better than 96% VE. I've done a bunch of stuff, but that seems kinda high for not having $2000 of cnc head work.

Harmonics says that 5000rpm, roughly when power drops, would resonate with an intake length of about 0.535 meters which I suspect is the distance from the plenum to the air box. I still have to measure for this, but I don't know how I could shorten it anyway. And I don't understand helmholtz enough to add something.

Is there anyone else here silly enough to work this hard on an ej22 NA who has some serious data to contribute?

Getting ready for some fun

Checked my front swaybar bushings and links again. Ever since I put the new(old) bar under there it's been clunking. Nothing had worked loose. Is there some sort of grease I should put on OE rubber links and bushings? Like the gunk that came with my poly control arm bushings?

Edit: Seems like loosening everything and then tightening again with it on the ground instead of on ramps fixed the noise. I wouldn't have thought it would sit that much different on the ramps.

Next is to pull the oil and see how it looks re: the scary noise that sounds like rod knock. Perhaps I won't make 300k on the original engine build... That would be with almost 200k of driving like it's a race car, so it would be fair if it's done.

What tool do people use to disect an oil filter so they can examine the paper for metal residue?

One of these cutting tools.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900510/overview/

Thanks. I may try to make something like that with my pipe cutter. I never thought of the rolling cutter idea before seeing that tool.

Yeah it's literally an oversized brake line/hard line cutting tool

So I didn't find anything like metal powder or flakes in the filter. I'm waiting for the oil to drain through a coffee filter to see if there was anything in the sump. The plug magnet was dead clean, so no bore/ring/valvetrain wear.

So the sound I'm hearing sounds like lifters. It's quieter than lifter noise I've had in the past on dryish startups after major work. New theory is that the problem is me trying to get this engine to at least 300k.

The long answer is that I've been having uneven oil pressure at idle only. I get 90 psi on a cold start, and more than 45 psi on the highway. I don't know what it is at redline as I'm typically too busy then to look at the center dash gauge. Idle goes to 10. (All assuming my cheap Chinese pressure sender is accurate across the range) When compensating for engine temp the pressure varies by about 2 psi depending on what I've been doing with engine load and gear banging. This, together with my aggressive driving, makes me think that the bearing that is out of spec is the thrust face and thrust load based on engine load pushes the crank fore or aft. All that on the table, I think the sound I was hearing was lifter caused be my running a mix of 10-40 and 20-50 to try to maintain minimum pressure. Now that it's suddenly cold out my mostly 20-50 is too goopy to properly inflate the lifters. I'm trying a thinner mix for this oil change. If I get 10k more out of it then I guess I was right. OTOH, if I throw a rod in the next couple weeks we'll know I was wrong.

Don't try this at home kids, I'm what you call an idiot.

Next is to pull the oil and see how it looks re: the scary noise that sounds like rod knock. Perhaps I won't make 300k on the original engine build... That would be with almost 200k of driving like it's a race car, so it would be fair if it's done.

Just an FYI - don't discount a decaying crank pulley, or even a worn/wearing TB pulley as well. I've heard these make very similar noises to what you're describing.

I have a perrin crank pulley and the timing set is newish.

The oil change does not seem to have cured the sound.

I guess a little time will show something.

The tensioner is new from a few months ago when I had the oil pump off.

Coming home from work it was nearly absent, but parked with the hood up I could hear it. I guess I have to go get a stethescope since I can't find mine. Tried a long extension to the block and to the injectors and couldn't hear anything at all. I guess I don't know how to do that correctly because I expected to hear the injectors. I cna hear them through the air just fine...