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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4


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There's always the option of a cluster surround with gauge pods. I'm having a heck of a time remembering who makes those- thought I had it bookmarked, but I guess not.

 

Ortiz!

 

http://ortizcustompods.com/uploads/3/4/1/7/34174225/s477132602315564541_p221_i2_w1280.jpeg

 

http://ortizcustompods.com/subaru.html

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^MrStacey has those and he has pics of them installed here somewhere.

 

I was thinking of getting those but they covered more of the fuel gauge than I liked.

 

My thoughts as well. I like the idea of those but I'm concerned about how much the fuel gauge is covered (don't care about the MPG one). For that reason, a couple weeks ago I got a CravenSpeed Belmont and planned on putting it on the steering column.

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My thoughts as well. I like the idea of those but I'm concerned about how much the fuel gauge is covered (don't care about the MPG one). For that reason, a couple weeks ago I got a CravenSpeed Belmont and planned on putting it on the steering column.

 

Yeah, I PMd MrStacey asking how much it covered the fuel gauge and he said it kinda covered it a lot, so I decided against it.

 

Another thing to watch out for is the stalks may contact the gauges when adjusting steering wheel height. I had this problem with an SMY cluster pod in my old Forester SG. I didnt bother MrStacey about it anymore since I pretty much abandoned the idea when he said it blocked the fuel gauge.

 

That gauge holder looks like a nice option, looks clean and I like the adjustable angle. I couldnt find any gauge pods I liked so I went with a Reveltronics multigauge instead.

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Finally changed out the trans mount, what a subtle but noticeable difference the slop is once again gone...it only took me about 15 min too. Now if I could find a way to keep the front from lifting so much under acceleration. I also got a chance to put my new impact driver to the test, I highly recommend Milwaukee's power tools. I got the hammer drill/driver set on clearance from Home Depot for $200.8e233895df73caa411877971322bd1c6.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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That was my impression with that mount, too. Maybe a little more gear whine, just because it's getting transmitted through the mount to the body, but not really any noticeable increase in NVH.
I could move the transmission by hand before unbolting the stock mount. It easily flexed side to side, I might also change the subframe mount things they are very soft too.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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Finally changed out the trans mount, what a subtle but noticeable difference the slop is once again gone...it only took me about 15 min too. Now if I could find a way to keep the front from lifting so much under acceleration. I also got a chance to put my new impact driver to the test, I highly recommend Milwaukee's power tools. I got the hammer drill/driver set on clearance from Home Depot for $200.
Now you just need Chris to make you and the other LGTs a bunch of various CKE-SSP inserts;

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cke-ssp-4eat-5eat-trans-mount-inserts-267054.html

 

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cvt-transmission-mount-insert-cke-ssp-267950.html?t=267950&highlight=cvt+insert

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I swapped in a solid mount, no inserts needed, that pic is the old one I took out. It was very flimsy indeed. When I installed my rear diff inserts and subframe inserts the solid feeling was short-lived apparently those parts only unmask the weak trans mount.

 

And for further review, I definitely felt some vibration this morning while cold and idling mostly in my seat/console area, but it goes away when the car is warmed up.

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I swapped in a solid mount, no inserts needed, that pic is the old one I took out. It was very flimsy indeed. When I installed my rear diff inserts and subframe inserts the solid feeling was short-lived apparently those parts only unmask the weak trans mount.

 

And for further review, I definitely felt some vibration this morning while cold and idling mostly in my seat/console area, but it goes away when the car is warmed up.

 

I've noticed this same thing with the 5EAT trans bushing. On cold starts, I get a pulsing vibration through my seat that comes and goes every couple seconds and calms down once the car warms up a bit and gets below 1500 rpm. Other than that, I get some noticeable trans feel around 3000 rpm, but the trans over feels way better. I have a feeling it's gonna be extra noticeable in the winter though. :lol:

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I was actually thinking this after looking at the mount. He can probably make an insert that'll work with that. I love mine that he sent me. I think its 75 or 80D, can't remember. Got rid of that awful thunk when the car shifts sometimes and the thunk when taking off.

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Needed to do my bakes. Was getting uneven wear. Decided to cover up the rust and make the brakes look less ugly and feel better. One of the pins was sticking a little. http://i.imgur.com/rBMYQI7.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/Uyqtvtq.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/sns7Lmd.jpg

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Heh someone else with sticking brakes. I noticed a pretty bad vibration this morning on the highway. Came out of nowhere. I stopped and looked around, only thing that stood out is my right rear smelled like the pads were cooking. I'm no stranger to dragging brakes, but I've never had a vibration from it. I made an appointment to get it checked out.

 

I wish I had the time (and more space than my single car, Vette occupied garage offers) to do the work myself. I'd like to paint mine like those above. Looks really nice.

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I had a similar issue with the Baja, turned out to be a stuck slide pin causing the pad to drag. It pulsed pretty bad, probably because there was a spot on the face of the rotor that looked about like a charcoal briquette. Cleaned up the pin with some scotchbrite, replaced rotors on both sides, re-bedded the same pads, and away I went. Pretty simple job if you have a drill to put the pin in, makes cleaning it up a lot easier.
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I'm getting a slight drag on my front left brake currently. I was all up in that bish about two-three weeks ago, checked/cleaned everything up, greased the pins, new shim & pads. Then after my track day, I got in there more recently and found both rubber boots on the pistons totally fried, pretty sure that's the culprit currently. Have a new seal kit coming this week hopefully. Edited by Humble Rumble
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Made myself some tweeter brackets for the dash location. 40 minutes total time and about $1 worth of material. Used the machine shop at work for the drill press to cut the hole but just tin snips for the outline of the bracket. Ugly but it works. http://i.imgur.com/MVdL9Ts.jpg
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Made myself some tweeter brackets for the dash location. 40 minutes total time and about $1 worth of material. Used the machine shop at work for the drill press to cut the hole but just tin snips for the outline of the bracket. Ugly but it works. http://i.imgur.com/MVdL9Ts.jpg
Clean those up with a flapper wheel and paint them. That will take care of the ugly. Otherwise, good job.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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