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The LGT with only a stage 1 tune puts down more cojones than a 3.6 with intake, exhaust, headers, and tune.

 

As much as I wish, removing all that stuff will not get the 3.6r into the 13's at the 70 degrees in which I ran it. I did a best of 14.65@96 or 97.

 

We need a shorter third.

Edited by fredrik94087

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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I posted a video a couple pages ago that speaks for itself. If i can run 0-100 in 13 flat then I'll at least be a low 14. Comparatively a GT does it in 14.2 stock a 3.6r does it in 14.8 stock, so we are not even close after mods. Also you must consider that we are all using 3 different tuners. I meant no offense by anything i just posted. Edited by stevenc1703
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If you go and drive a 2014 WRX and a 2014 STi, you'll see a similar situation. Stock, the STi has significantly more power then a WRX but the 5 speed allows a 0-60 thats nearly identical to the STi. Once you get past that though the STi will be noticeably faster in the quarter. (Low 13's vs mid to upper 13's)

 

As Fredrick said, our second gear will allow us to hit 70 (more or less) but once into 3rd and 4th is where our cars just run out of steam causing the slower quarter.

Edited by Golferdude1087
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I posted a video a couple pages ago that speaks for itself. If i can run 0-100 in 13 flat then I'll at least be a low 14. Comparatively a GT does it in 14.2 stock a 3.6r does it in 14.8 stock, so we are not even close after mods. Also you must consider that we are all using 3 different tuners. I meant no offense by anything i just posted.

 

No offense taken. In addition to comparing a tune, we must compare at least the temperature at the time, the grade of the road, and elevation.

 

There are other factors. I am just stating what I believe are some basic factors.

 

At the track, in 90 degree weather, the car was running 15. My last run was my fastest at 70 degrees. If it were cooler, the car would have done better.

 

A comparison should be in similar conditions and at similar elevation.

 

Your shift from second to third did seem quicker than mine.

 

You did mention a while back that your tuner was able to alter the shifting?

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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No offense taken. In addition to comparing a tune, we must compare at least the temperature at the time, the grade of the road, and elevation.

 

There are other factors. I am just stating what I believe are some basic factors.

 

At the track, in 90 degree weather, the car was running 15. My last run was my fastest at 70 degrees. If it were cooler, the car would have done better.

 

A comparison should be in similar conditions and at similar elevation.

 

Your shift from second to third did seem quicker than mine.

 

You did mention a while back that your tuner was able to alter the shifting?

It was pretty cold that night like around 30. Yes he was able to alter clutch pressure.

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Machine shop will be modifying the boomba backplate so it mates with the Intake Manifold.

 

The butterfly sees only the cylindrical bore and not the taper. So, no issues there. The taper is on the backplate.

 

I got pricing if I want to make 10 backplates...$1000 (total). If I make more, the unit price will drop.

 

Slotting and boring mine will be ~$200. It won't be as clean as making one, but there is a lot of setup, so this is the cheaper way to go until I know it fits, works, and makes more power.

 

I will pick it up sometime next week.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Okay...it just got interesting real quick.

 

I was referencing someones post on tribeca gears and third was lower than in the legacy.

 

For shits and giggles, I was looking at cars 101. It looks like all 5 gears are exactly the same and only the final drive is different.

 

This means someone doesnt have to open up the transmission and swap things out. They can just R/R the transmission and the rear diff and we are good to go.

 

It is looking better than before.

 

Now to look into the tribeca sport shift versus our paddle shift and how and what I can go about it.

Edited by fredrik94087

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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I'm using open source, my tuner is throttlehappy by the way.

 

That answered two of my questions.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Continuing with the transmission comparisons. I have printed out both 2013 legacy and 2013 tribeca transmission parts. I may not have all of them, but from the looks of it, the only item that is different on the front side is the "gear set hypoid".

 

That item is labeled 38100 on both diagrams, but they have different part numbers.

 

It is a $400 part.

 

The entire rear diff assembly is $648. However, I believe the only item that is different is a "pinion & crown gear set". Those have different part numbers and it is a $320 part.

 

These are both for brand new Subaru parts. Looks like it can be done for $720 in parts plus labor plus whatever gaskets should be replaced so we don't have the LWCP situation with the seal.

 

I will compare the center diff, but I don't think there should be anything that affects gearing. Will update this post if there is a difference.

 

Next will be to confirm these findings with a reputable transmission specialist.

 

Cheers!

Edited by fredrik94087

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Okay...it just got interesting real quick.

 

I was referencing someones post on tribeca gears and third was lower than in the legacy.

 

For shits and giggles, I was looking at cars 101. It looks like all 5 gears are exactly the same and only the final drive is different.

 

This means someone doesnt have to open up the transmission and swap things out. They can just R/R the transmission and the rear diff and we are good to go.

 

It is looking better than before.

 

Now to look into the tribeca sport shift versus our paddle shift and how and what I can go about it.

 

I decided to go ahead and look out of curiosity as well and I found something quite interesting.

 

The 2009 Spec B. uses what appears to be the same 6 speed transmission as the STi (minus the STi having different front and real Final ratios while the Spec B has the ratio from the front of the STi) but the 2010 GT which finally got a 6 speed doesn't match up with the STi's 6 speed ratios, meaning its a different transmission.

 

Going further it appears the 2015 WRX uses (almost) the same transmission as the 2010-2010 LGT (5th gear has a 0.002 difference) but the STi still uses the transmission from the previous generation.

 

That WRX transmission I believe will hit 60 in second (barely) and earlier on the thread it seems that the Legacy 3.6 can bolt up to the GT 6 Speed. So I wonder if the new WRX transmission would be feasible for a swap because there are probably more of those available which could possibly drop the price.

 

This is all based on short research, i could be wrong and I would have to dig deeper on it.

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I decided to go ahead and look out of curiosity as well and I found something quite interesting.

 

The 2009 Spec B. uses what appears to be the same 6 speed transmission as the STi (minus the STi having different front and real Final ratios while the Spec B has the ratio from the front of the STi) but the 2010 GT which finally got a 6 speed doesn't match up with the STi's 6 speed ratios, meaning its a different transmission.

 

Going further it appears the 2015 WRX uses (almost) the same transmission as the 2010-2010 LGT (5th gear has a 0.002 difference) but the STi still uses the transmission from the previous generation.

 

That WRX transmission I believe will hit 60 in second (barely) and earlier on the thread it seems that the Legacy 3.6 can bolt up to the GT 6 Speed. So I wonder if the new WRX transmission would be feasible for a swap because there are probably more of those available which could possibly drop the price.

 

This is all based on short research, i could be wrong and I would have to dig deeper on it.

 

2015 wrx is 4.11 final drive and I think a 2011 3.6r is 3.08, it will blow your car up if you managed to make it fit. You would need to also swap rear pumpkin and likely drive shafts (all) to make this work.

Edited by slackoff01
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I decided to go ahead and look out of curiosity as well and I found something quite interesting.

 

The 2009 Spec B. uses what appears to be the same 6 speed transmission as the STi (minus the STi having different front and real Final ratios while the Spec B has the ratio from the front of the STi) but the 2010 GT which finally got a 6 speed doesn't match up with the STi's 6 speed ratios, meaning its a different transmission.

 

Going further it appears the 2015 WRX uses (almost) the same transmission as the 2010-2010 LGT (5th gear has a 0.002 difference) but the STi still uses the transmission from the previous generation.

 

That WRX transmission I believe will hit 60 in second (barely) and earlier on the thread it seems that the Legacy 3.6 can bolt up to the GT 6 Speed. So I wonder if the new WRX transmission would be feasible for a swap because there are probably more of those available which could possibly drop the price.

 

This is all based on short research, i could be wrong and I would have to dig deeper on it.

 

I feel you, and I understand you.

 

The easiest is to swap the LGT 6mt because they are a perfect match. The electronics is the issue.

 

I have had to learn to let that one go. It's tough, but you can do it! :(

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Yeah dude, I sadly had to let her go. I needed to reduce payments and pick up some MPGs, so I got a great lease deal on an Accord Sport. I had to jump on it after they offered me the KBB value for my car, even after some minor body work. Anyway, it's all part of a 3 year plan to save a little money and get in a WRX or maybe a 7th Gen LGT!

So yeah, I got some cables for sell, but I haven't priced them yet. I'd probably like to get about 75% of what they cost new, because I only used them a few times.

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I undid the catch can. I need to configure something different than was done for me.

 

While catch can was on (connected to what originally went to intake manifold), I pulled the tube from the intake and asked the wife to rev the engine.

 

The tube that connects to the intake does not such fresh air...it blows vapor. I could see it as I was in the shade. No way to see it with plenty of light.

 

So, I reconnected that hose and disconnected the one that was going to the intake manifold. With the engine revving, I couldn't tell if it was sucking or blowing or neither.

 

I now believe the best way to set up a catch can on this car is one of two ways:

1. two vented catch cans (one for each tube as I don't want to recirculate crud).

2. don't do a catch can (problem solved)

 

Nstg8r, I believe the reason you don't see anything in your catch can is that vapors are mostly coming from the tube that connects to the intake.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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I undid the catch can. I need to configure something different than was done for me.

 

While catch can was on (connected to what originally went to intake manifold), I pulled the tube from the intake and asked the wife to rev the engine.

 

The tube that connects to the intake does not such fresh air...it blows vapor. I could see it as I was in the shade. No way to see it with plenty of light.

 

So, I reconnected that hose and disconnected the one that was going to the intake manifold. With the engine revving, I couldn't tell if it was sucking or blowing or neither.

 

I now believe the best way to set up a catch can on this car is one of two ways:

1. two vented catch cans (one for each tube as I don't want to recirculate crud).

2. don't do a catch can (problem solved)

 

Nstg8r, I believe the reason you don't see anything in your catch can is that vapors are mostly coming from the tube that connects to the intake.

 

I have two cans; one connected to PCV, one to breather. I have had a little bit of oil in the PCV can, but nothing at all in the breather can. With no boost, I don't really expect to catch that much anyway.

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My point is that on my car with the engine revving, vapor comes out of the line that was attached to takeda intake tube.

 

With the tube that was connected to IM a d now to vented vatch can, i was seeing some oil residue on what you are calling the breather line (attached to takeda).

 

That is why i pulled it and had the wife rev the motor.

 

Like I said, i couldnt tell if anything was happening to the other tube (originally connected to IM)

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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My point is that on my car with the engine revving, vapor comes out of the line that was attached to takeda intake tube.

 

 

Like I said, i couldnt tell if anything was happening to the other tube (originally connected to IM)

 

You may want to check your PCV valve.

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You may want to check your PCV valve.

 

You may be correct on this one. Another possibility is that the de-coupling of the pcv line from the intake manifold did not allow that line to get "sucked" by the intake manifold and vapors were going in and out of the other pcv line (fresh air side).

 

The pcv valve is there for a reason, and the line should stay connected to the intake manifold.

 

Your catch can setup with an in/out and then back into the intake manifold is ideal, I believe.

 

I don't believe there is any sort of check valve on the "fresh air" side.

 

On Subaru parts sites, I only see one check valve and it is for the pcv line going to the intake manifold.

 

I will check the "breather" side and see if I still have any residue. If I do, it may just be the design or the check valve.

 

You would think it would be a very controlled system with one way in and one way out and no possibility of going out of the breather end.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Another possibility is that the de-coupling of the pcv line from the intake manifold did not allow that line to get "sucked" by the intake manifold and vapors were going in and out of the other pcv line (fresh air side).

 

 

If you disconnected or capped off the PCV line, then yeah, built up pressure will escape the path of least resistance. That's why we don't cap off both lines; the POLR would be your engine seals.

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