Any 3.6R maintenance at 170k miles?

Is there anything that needs to be done to a 3.6R at 170k miles. Mine is a couple miles off from 170k. Really doesn't show all the miles when you drive it.

 

i know the typical routine for a Boxer 4 but what about a Boxer 6?

Is there anything that needs to be done to a 3.6R at 170k miles. Mine is a couple miles off from 170k. Really doesn't show all the miles when you drive it.

 

i know the typical routine for a Boxer 4 but what about a Boxer 6?

Check the serpentine belt n both idler n tensioner pulleys. Mine went at 135. Trans fluid every 30k, diffs 30-60k.

 

Aside from above...no lol. the motor is a tank and has NONE of the EJ or FA issue. Some have bad EGRs but that's it

 

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

Check the serpentine belt n both idler n tensioner pulleys. Mine went at 135. Trans fluid every 30k, diffs 30-60k.

 

Aside from above...no lol. the motor is a tank and has NONE of the EJ or FA issue. Some have bad EGRs but that's it

 

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk

 

Yeah I already had a tensioner pulley go, got that done and new belt. I will just end up doing the transmission and differential fluids. I need to dig around the forums and see what fluids you guys recommend. I heard something about Royal Purple but don't quote me on that.

Yeah I already had a tensioner pulley go, got that done and new belt. I will just end up doing the transmission and differential fluids. I need to dig around the forums and see what fluids you guys recommend. I heard something about Royal Purple but don't quote me on that.

 

None of the H6s use that. prolly isn't bad but no ones tried. What works is teh following

 

Amsoil ATF full synthetic for the trans (it'll need 2 drains over time bc of what gets stuck in the torque converter. DO NOT FLUSH)

 

Amsoil 75-90 severe gear for the diffs

 

always good to do a brake flush (dot 4 fluid)

Ever done the spark plugs? I'd check the coil tops for any cracking while your there. Mabe a fresh PCV valve if its never been replaced.

 

I'm sure a dealer would find all kinds of stuff to "maintain".....

None of the H6s use that. prolly isn't bad but no ones tried. What works is teh following

 

Amsoil ATF full synthetic for the trans (it'll need 2 drains over time bc of what gets stuck in the torque converter. DO NOT FLUSH)

 

Amsoil 75-90 severe gear for the diffs

 

always good to do a brake flush (dot 4 fluid)

 

Does anybody have a good tutorial on how to replace the 5EAT transmission fluid? I tried finding it but everyone talks about the older generation.

 

I want to do a brake flush but I am waiting on buying braided lines before I do. I was thinking about replacing it with some high temperature fluid.

Ever done the spark plugs? I'd check the coil tops for any cracking while your there. Mabe a fresh PCV valve if its never been replaced.

 

I'm sure a dealer would find all kinds of stuff to "maintain".....

 

Yes, spark plugs are on the list. Probably going to do them next month. PCV valve doesn't sound like a bad idea too.

 

Oh yeah I am sure they would find a lot of "really important maintenance items"

Double check the cars101.com maintenance schedule for 2010s. Just keep adding 7.5 to 120 and the maintenance pattern repeats.

 

At 172.5k you will need an oil change if by some miracle you changed your oil perfectly every 7500 miles since the car was new. You might also rotate the tires.

 

At 165k you should have done the above but also inspected the following.

-Brake pads, linings, front/rear axle boots, CV joints, axle half shaft, parking brake *2

-Clutch

-Steering and suspension *2

 

At 180k it's time for the big one. Are you ready?

Inspect

-Engine coolant, Replace engine coolant, inspect system, hoses, connections * 5

-Inspect fuel system, lines, connections *2

-Tranmission/differential lub. Front/rear gear oil *3

-Brake pads, linings, front/rear axle boots, CV joints, axle half shaft, parking brake *2

-Clutch

-Steering and suspension *2

-Front/rear wheel bearing lubricant

Replace

-Drive Belts

-Engine oil/filter *1

-Replace fuel filter (the filter is in the fuel tank)

-Air cleaner *2

-Spark Plugs- all Outback/Legacy; all turbos; all 3.6L 6 cylinder engines

-Brake fluid *2

Rotate your tires and if it's been 1-2 years replace your cabin air filter.

PMCS is no joke.

 

If you're still reading here's some funny PMCS comics that the army used to circulate to remind people to perform PMCS to prevent failure of vehicles. Link

Double check the cars101.com maintenance schedule for 2010s. Just keep adding 7.5 to 120 and the maintenance pattern repeats.

 

At 172.5k you will need an oil change if by some miracle you changed your oil perfectly every 7500 miles since the car was new. You might also rotate the tires.

 

At 165k you should have done the above but also inspected the following.

-Brake pads, linings, front/rear axle boots, CV joints, axle half shaft, parking brake *2

-Clutch

-Steering and suspension *2

 

At 180k it's time for the big one. Are you ready?

Inspect

-Engine coolant, Replace engine coolant, inspect system, hoses, connections * 5

-Inspect fuel system, lines, connections *2

-Tranmission/differential lub. Front/rear gear oil *3

-Brake pads, linings, front/rear axle boots, CV joints, axle half shaft, parking brake *2

-Clutch

-Steering and suspension *2

-Front/rear wheel bearing lubricant

Replace

-Drive Belts

-Engine oil/filter *1

-Replace fuel filter (the filter is in the fuel tank)

-Air cleaner *2

-Spark Plugs- all Outback/Legacy; all turbos; all 3.6L 6 cylinder engines

-Brake fluid *2

Rotate your tires and if it's been 1-2 years replace your cabin air filter.

PMCS is no joke.

 

If you're still reading here's some funny PMCS comics that the army used to circulate to remind people to perform PMCS to prevent failure of vehicles. Link

 

Thanks for that info. I have all those pretty much already checked off except spark plugs and brake fluid. I usually look at preventative maintenance stuff every time I check my oil. Brake fluid is going to be tricky because I don't know how to completely flush the system and put in new fluid. I don't know how to flush the ABS and stuff. Need to do some research.

That's great you're well on top of maintenance. Not many people are these days outside of car enthusiasts.

 

There's a walk through linked in one of the stickied posts about changing spark plugs on a 3.6R so you're covered there. As far as brake bleeding and brake flushing any youtube video will give you the gist of how to do it. Buying a cheap kit with the tubing and a catch bottle with a magnet will allow you to do it yourself. I used a broomstick through an open window to pump the brake pedal. You only want to pump it about 70% of the stroke anyway.

 

There are two schools of thought on how to flush or bleed an car with ABS, one involves starting the flush then putting the car back together to do a few hard stops to trigger the ABS and then bleeding again. Another method involves certain ignition key turns to trigger an ABS self test which flushes the ABS module. Do some research to decide what's available on your 2010 and what you feel comfortable doing at home.

 

The most important thing though is to never let your master cylinder reservoir go below half. If it gets low enough it will suck air into the master cylinder and then you will have to bench bleed which involves removing the master cylinder from the car.

 

Also try to jump in on the master cylinder brace group buy. Those things make an amazing difference in your brake pedal feel and feedback from the tires/road.

That's great you're well on top of maintenance. Not many people are these days outside of car enthusiasts.

 

There's a walk through linked in one of the stickied posts about changing spark plugs on a 3.6R so you're covered there. As far as brake bleeding and brake flushing any youtube video will give you the gist of how to do it. Buying a cheap kit with the tubing and a catch bottle with a magnet will allow you to do it yourself. I used a broomstick through an open window to pump the brake pedal. You only want to pump it about 70% of the stroke anyway.

 

There are two schools of thought on how to flush or bleed an car with ABS, one involves starting the flush then putting the car back together to do a few hard stops to trigger the ABS and then bleeding again. Another method involves certain ignition key turns to trigger an ABS self test which flushes the ABS module. Do some research to decide what's available on your 2010 and what you feel comfortable doing at home.

 

The most important thing though is to never let your master cylinder reservoir go below half. If it gets low enough it will suck air into the master cylinder and then you will have to bench bleed which involves removing the master cylinder from the car.

 

Also try to jump in on the master cylinder brace group buy. Those things make an amazing difference in your brake pedal feel and feedback from the tires/road.

 

 

Thanks for the info. I am not sure there is a ABS self test you can do on the 2010 Legacy. It could possible be done at the dealership using the Subaru tool and software. I will just do the method of stopping on a dirt road instead. I'll watch some videos and take a look at it.

 

Yeah I jumped in on the master cylinder brace already. I am really excited to install it and see the difference.

I just do a gravity bleed on the trakes. I don't bother with trying to cycle new fluid through the ABS and then flushing it again. The majority of car owners never flush their brake fluid until they have a problem with the calipers. I am think my every 30k miles brake fluid flush is good enough. Once you hit the ABS, it will mix with the new fluid.