What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

So got a trade request for my 18x9.5 et38 Work Emotion CR Kiwami for a set of 18x10 et36 Rotiform TMB 2 Piece wheels (pictured below). Although I really like how my current set up looks with the white, I do love me some dish and like the fact that the Rotiforms are a forged wheel as well. Decisions, decisions

 

 

 

As I tell everyone, you cant take it to the grave. If you can swing it and not get into a bind financially, do it.....

 

Scotty

PCV didn't do jack. Cleaned/inspected half a dozen times, no idea where it's coming from. Rear main seal? Oil separator plate? Left/right head gasket? Oil pan gasket? Oil comes back towards the transmission drain plug, and also comes down the rear of the oil pan.

 

Don't want to pull the engine, don't want to blindly reseal oil pan and risk damaging it during removal, or damage something else by accident.

 

So.. I did something I never thought I'd do. Got a can of liqui moly motor oil saver at napa, threw that in my oil today. It's supposed to slightly swell seals and gaskets to stop leaks, we'll see, it has good reviews on amazon. I know what you're probably thinking, but my car is probably only worth 2-3k, so I figure why not try it..

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2020-Motor-Saver/dp/B00CPL8WY8/

Have you tried using an oil tracer dye? I've done that back in my dealership days with moderate success.

 

Scotty

... and that's all she wrote.

 

Had a flat for severals days, I think (tire was badly worn on the sidewall). I usually notice right away, but somehow missed this one - TPMS would have helped in this case. Like the 5th flat in the last 2 years, no idea why so many..

 

Not sure if that helped accelerate it, or it was unrelated, but, even after swapping back my oem wheels, there's now a VERY bad shudder/clunk even when just driving down the street.. Just glad I made it home without needing a tow. Probably center diff, even though I had bushings installed 3 years ago, or maybe rear diff (it's been making noise from rear diff area for years under load in a right turn).

 

Anyway, not worth actually putting any more $$ into the car. Watch for the partout thread soon.

 

Will definitely pull: GS TMIC, RCE Tarmacs, Cobb Sways + new bushings/braces

 

Probably: Stock springs cut for Konis (with worn Konis), GS MBC brace, bnr16g + IP&T oil line kit, CNT catted DP, LED headlight upgrade

 

Maybe: uncatted UP, Wilwood front BBK

Lots of extra parts as well.. 7 quite new Pilot Super Sport 225/47/17, 6 OEM wheels, 4 Rota 17x8.5 (black with red lip) in rough shape, but hold air, etc. several sets of rotors / pads, new spark plugs, new oil filters,

 

I don't have a ton of time these days, and my wife's going to want the car gone soon - anyone want a parts / donor car in NorCal? Engine runs fine (145k on it, dw650 injectors, Walbro pump, Tech Alliance tune). Super sweet deal if you take everything plus my wife's undying gratitude .

 

I also have a Hexmods F1 valve body, but I don't have time nor inclination to drop the transmission and pull it. If anyone is interested, get in touch, and we'll try to work something out.

Edited June 8, 2019 by hadvw
Better Spacing

... and that's all she wrote.

 

Had a flat for severals days, I think (tire was badly worn on the sidewall). I usually notice right away, but somehow missed this one - TPMS would have helped in this case. Like the 5th flat in the last 2 years, no idea why so many..

 

Not sure if that helped accelerate it, or it was unrelated, but, even after swapping back my oem wheels, there's now a VERY bad shudder/clunk even when just driving down the street.. Just glad I made it home without needing a tow. Probably center diff, even though I had bushings installed 3 years ago, or maybe rear diff (it's been making noise from rear diff area for years under load in a right turn).

 

Anyway, not worth actually putting any more $$ into the car. Watch for the partout thread soon.

 

Will definitely pull: GS TMIC, RCE Tarmacs, Cobb Sways + new bushings/braces

 

Probably: Stock springs cut for Konis (with worn Konis), GS MBC brace, bnr16g + IP&T oil line kit, CNT catted DP, LED headlight upgrade

 

Maybe: uncatted UP, Wilwood front BBK

Lots of extra parts as well.. 7 quite new Pilot Super Sport 225/47/17, 6 OEM wheels, 4 Rota 17x8.5 (black with red lip) in rough shape, but hold air, etc. several sets of rotors / pads, new spark plugs, new oil filters,

 

I don't have a ton of time these days, and my wife's going to want the car gone soon - anyone want a parts / donor car in NorCal? Engine runs fine (145k on it, dw650 injectors, Walbro pump, Tech Alliance tune). Super sweet deal if you take everything plus my wife's undying gratitude [emoji38].

 

I also have a Hexmods F1 valve body, but I don't have time nor inclination to drop the transmission and pull it. If anyone is interested, get in touch, and we'll try to work something out.

Axles, OEM or aftermarket?

 

I'd troubleshoot a little more before selling unless you really just don't want the car.

OEM Axles - had the fronts replaced with non-OEM, which trashed the front diff, had it rebuilt + F1 installed + OEM axles around 3.5 years ago. Rears were not replaced.

 

 

Too many issues with the car to bother fixing it (for me): the A/C burbles on both sides due to worn actuators that is really annoying - I hear parts are no longer available, random clunks from the front that are really annoying, CD player is randomly cutting out, windshield sprayers are really weak, paint flaking off various locations, etc. Dropping $2k to get this fixed would be waste, IMHO.

 

 

 

I was just hoping to hang on until the 2020 Stinger GT-S or X3M were released.. Alas.

Have you tried using an oil tracer dye? I've done that back in my dealership days with moderate success.

 

Scotty

 

Yeah, it was strange. I have a light like the one in the link below, just a different brand.

https://www.amazon.com/Escolite-Flashlight-Ultraviolet-Blacklight-Detector/dp/B008133KB4

 

I've used that before with AC dye, and it worked well, I didn't need colored glasses or anything to clearly see the dye illuminate, but I do also have amber tinted safety glasses. I think yellow glasses are the ones you're supposed to use, but I figure amber is close enough, maybe not..

 

Long story short, I compared fresh conventional oil out of the bottle, versus my uv dyed oil, and they both looked quite fluorescent with the UV light shining on them.. Either way, even after adding uv dye I still couldn't tell where it was coming from unfortunately.

 

*Edit... I don't want to reply again just for this, so I'll edit this post.

I went outside clean the little bit of oil that had leaked out in the last 3-5 days, and I caught a little break... It clearly looks like the leak is coming from the passenger side of the car. From what I've seen under my car, my passenger side head gasket doesn't seem to be leaking, but my driver side might have a very slight leak. So that leads me to think that the oil separator plate to the right of the rear main seal may be what's leaking.. But I don't know, I don't even know if those are known to leak on the 4th gens.

 

I also kind of wonder if it's transmission fluid leaking out past the bolt head, but I don't think so. Doesn't smell like gear oil, and seems to have gotten a little lighter in color, which makes sense since I just changed my engine oil. Also, these pictures were taken after I cleaned up the little stream of oil going back to the transmission drain plug.

Edited June 9, 2019 by apexi

Oil change and cleaned my MAF....P0068 is gone......for now

Finally changed out Turbine Sensor 1. Also swapped the KartBoy pitch stop for a STI pitch-stop.

 

Didn’t get to test drive to see if the P0715 has cleared, it started raining before I could get the intercooler back on.

 

Will have some parts for the classifieds soon...

Swapped front right bearing. Old one was a Timken with less than 5k miles. Could have been installer error but the bearing had play and sounded rough while turning by hand. The play in the bearing was so bad it was starting to score the plastic on the speed sensor. The left front Timken is still doing fine. Put in an NTN OEM bearing - much quieter. I can hear turbo wooshes again!

Washed it, cleaned and polished the headlights. Listed it for sale.

Still love driving this car, but it's time to move on.

Drove the shi* out of it the last two days. Passed 7k on the build, need to drive her more. Loving it so much with the new seats. Passengers are much happier. Need to get an i88 harness and I’ve settled on the pioneer avh4400nex for the double din install. Hoping to get that in before Wagonfest on June 23rd.

Finally changed out Turbine Sensor 1. Also swapped the KartBoy pitch stop for a STI pitch-stop.

 

Didn’t get to test drive to see if the P0715 has cleared, it started raining before I could get the intercooler back on.

 

Will have some parts for the classifieds soon...

 

 

Turbine speed sensor? Is this a 5EAT? What issue are you trying to solve?

Turbine speed sensor? Is this a 5EAT? What issue are you trying to solve?

 

 

 

Yes, 5EAT. Hard shifting, no fifth gear, throws a P0715 every time I clear memory 2.

Yes, 5EAT. Hard shifting, no fifth gear, throws a P0715 every time I clear memory 2.

Interested in the outcome. It's my understanding the one inside that requires valve body removal is to blame. Thanks for posting and good luck with it.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Interested in the outcome. It's my understanding the one inside that requires valve body removal is to blame. Thanks for posting and good luck with it.

 

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

That’s what I’ve been led to believe too. Turbine Sensor 2 is inside the VB, but you can get Turbine Sensor 1 by itself. It’s mounted just behind the starter. I’m hoping this does it, otherwise I’ll need a valve body... Just trying to exhaust all avenues before dropping $500ish on a valve body.

 

(Hoping it stops raining soon so I can get the TMIC back on and test drive it. Will post an update when done.)

 

*crosses fingers*

Welp. Since I didn’t get the intercooler back on, I did this instead!

 

Do you know how much heat can soak through the grimmspeed logo!!!

I did the same, no real reason to do the cold side ( symmetry? )

 

Why does everyone use gold? The same company makes a silver one also, looks better under the hood imho

Do you know how much heat can soak through the grimmspeed logo!!!

I did the same, no real reason to do the cold side ( symmetry? )

 

Why does everyone use gold? The same company makes a silver one also, looks better under the hood imho

 

Gold = 1st place racecar. But also reflects more heat.

This was strictly to match the gold anodized TGV deletes, fuel rails, and reservoir caps the previous owner put on the car. (And I was bored and that roll of tape has been in my parts bin for a while.)

 

Now that’s it’s done. I’m finding that I like it a lot more than I expected. [emoji2]

 

But that Grimmspeed logo might cost me a couple HP...

Gold = 1st place racecar. But also reflects more heat.

 

Yes, gold reflects more heat. Years ago I used to assemble guidance rockets for a lifting body that would take satellites from the Space Shuttle bay to orbit. The brackets that held the small guidance rocket were taped with gold tape to reflect the Sun's heat.

 

For those that care, https://www.google.com/search?ei=7RIAXd4d0I7nAteftcgB&q=boeing+us+inertial+upper+stage&oq=Boeing+IUS++inital+upper+stage&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.33i22i10i29i30.22367.40965..43358...0.0..0.142.2261.3j17....2..0....1..gws-wiz.......0i71j0i22i10i30j0i333j0i13j0i22i30j33i160j33i299.anV0oxBI4WA

Edited June 11, 2019 by Max Capacity

I doubt that the gold tape on those end tanks will make any difference in performance of the intercooler.

 

On topic: I’ve started assembling pieces to move my IAT Sensor to the Fmic piping near the throttle body.

I doubt that the gold tape on those end tanks will make any difference in performance of the intercooler.

 

 

But I was told it will net me +50 hp, and +75 tq! And make all the women want me, and the men want to be me! And make my hair glorious and full like The Jonas Brothers! And lower the interest rate on my mortgage! And save me 15% or more!?!?

Ah, you're thinking about the "World is flat" blipshift sticker. Common mistake.

 

Haven't done much to my car lately. Drove it to/from work. Still wonderful and so much more satisfying than a toyota.

Edited June 12, 2019 by seanyb505

Rolled 235k mi on the wagon. 135k on Stage 2 e-tune and ~100k with HexMod 5EAT.

Monday the recycler took my last Leggy (08 SpecB) to be crushed. For the first time since 2006 I do not own a 4th gen LGT. I dont forsee buying another.

 

It was a long and wild ride. There were MANY bumps in the road along the way. I met a lot of good people, made some friends, and lost some too. Like everything it life, it was a learning experience.

 

Thanks to the members of this forum. Your support was the deciding factor in opening the business.