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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Do you remember if that residue was there before? Does it look new or old and dusty? Could you have set the covers on something while they were off? Did you spray anything on the bolts to let them loose when taking them off?

 

 

Just throwing this out as food for thought. If the insides are nice and dry, I'd just wipe the covers and keep an eye on them (and oil level).

 

That's what I ended up doing. Wiped it off ajd will keep an eye on it. The underside was meticulously clean when I finished IIRC, but it was also pretty late. Time will tell I suppose

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Installed KTA124’s last night. Unfortunately can’t drive it or fine tune them until I get my Koyorad delivered and installed. About 6 months ago I broke the fitting from the return line from the overflow tank into the radiator after leaning on it... JB weld worked for s good while until now. Good reason to upgrade to a Koyo I guess.

 

1870-F457-2-B39-4-BD0-94-BE-47-E7-A73-AAB2-C.jpg

 

These come with decals now?

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First post. Valve cover gasket which led to a fuel injector o ring blow out.

 

Next will be finishing the rest of the oil leak issue. It seems to be coming from around the oil filter...

 

Changed to oil to full synthetic looks like previous owners had traditional. I’ve heard this can cause the leakage.

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First post. Valve cover gasket which led to a fuel injector o ring blow out.

 

Next will be finishing the rest of the oil leak issue. It seems to be coming from around the oil filter...

 

Changed to oil to full synthetic looks like previous owners had traditional. I’ve heard this can cause the leakage.

 

Traditional oil does not cause “leakage”.

"Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder
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Installed KTA124’s last night.

 

1870-F457-2-B39-4-BD0-94-BE-47-E7-A73-AAB2-C.jpg

 

 

 

 

How difficult is the install? I haven't touched the rear in 14 years of ownership other then swapping wheel bearings and swapping rear diff from R160 to R180. Debating whether I attempt to do it myself or pay the man.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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How difficult is the install? I haven't touched the rear in 14 years of ownership other then swapping wheel bearings and swapping rear diff from R160 to R180. Debating whether I attempt to do it myself or pay the man.

 

California car, not that difficult. Rhode Island car, probably pretty stubborn. The only bolt I really had trouble with was the toe adjustment bolt on the subframe because it’s near the exhaust and my Avo brackets were in the way. I could only use a 17mm open end wrench and couldn’t fit a socket in there so I was turning away for a good 3-4 minutes with limited space. You’d have more space if you don’t have the Avo brackets like me. Rubber mallet and a screwdriver helps a lot getting the washers sandwiched in. And of course a breaker bar but I use the handle of the jack.

 

Otherwise I’d say 5/10 in difficulty. If you have antisieze on any of those bolts already from maybe previous alignments you’re in luck.

Edited by Notorious
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First post. Valve cover gasket which led to a fuel injector o ring blow out.

 

Next will be finishing the rest of the oil leak issue. It seems to be coming from around the oil filter...

 

Changed to oil to full synthetic looks like previous owners had traditional. I’ve heard this can cause the leakage.

If it is actually coming from around the oil filter then it might be the oil cooler gasket. Can change it and a few hoses next oil change.

 

Does it have any mods? A fumoto valve is nice for oil changes and collecting oil samples, which i'd recommend.

 

Turbo subaru?

* Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average *
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I'm sure someone else has given this advice elsewhere, but here's a reminder that a lot of dirt and gunk makes it up to the fender wells. I thought I was pretty active about keeping rust at bay between power washing the chassis and annual the Fluid Film application, but I spotted some incipient rust on the dog leg prone section of my wagon.

 

Upon removing the liner I found a lot of dirt compacted along the edge and a significant amount of moisture despite the car being under a car cover and there not being any rain for days. I'm quite certain it's the moisture from the dirt (and car not being driven) that contributed to this rust bubble. Beneath the plastic dogleg trim piece everything was still ok.

 

In the future, I'm going to remove all the liners and use Salt Away to my annual underbody cleaning routine.

 

Hey madrig, how are those fender flares coming :lol:

 

In other news, here's a truck I saw on the streets of NYC over the weekend.

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Edited by Enlight

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First post. Valve cover gasket which led to a fuel injector o ring blow out.

 

Next will be finishing the rest of the oil leak issue. It seems to be coming from around the oil filter...

 

Changed to oil to full synthetic looks like previous owners had traditional. I’ve heard this can cause the leakage.

 

Some oil filters like NAPA WIX filters are noted for unscrewing themselves because they hang down. I had this at my last oil change and I switched to an Amzoil filter. Pricey, but no leaks.

 

The synthetic oil issue was solved some time ago. The polyalphaolefin content in synthetic oils tends to shrink the seals. To counteract that, esters were added to swell the seals so that no change occurred in seal dimensions. When the API-SN versions of oil came out, additional esters were added to keep leaks at bay by swelling the seals more than necessary.

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I'm sure someone else has given this advice elsewhere, but here's a reminder that a lot of dirt and gunk makes it up to the fender wells. I thought I was pretty active about keeping rust at bay between power washing the chassis and annual the Fluid Film application, but I spotted some incipient rust on the dog leg prone section of my wagon.

 

Upon removing the liner I found a lot of dirt compacted along the edge and a significant amount of moisture despite the car being under a car cover and there not being any rain for days. I'm quite certain it's the moisture from the dirt (and car not being driven) that contributed to this rust bubble. Beneath the plastic dogleg trim piece everything was still ok.

 

In the future, I'm going to remove all the liners and use Salt Away to my annual underbody cleaning routine.

 

Hey madrig, how are those fender flares coming :lol:

 

In other news, here's a truck I saw on the streets of NYC over the weekend.

 

You city kids... Out here in the country most every Pick Up truck more then 7 or 8 y/o looks like that. You can see them every where.

 

Here you can see where I cut the rust out of the 86' F150 back about 2008.

 

DSCN7197.thumb.JPG.de24f844a31d1ff12dc92f3a548d14df.JPG

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Just one small spot behind the left rear tire that I seem to have been keeping at bay. I spray the inside with fluid film through that small space between the plastic bumper, the rear fender and the wheel well liner. On the outside I have ground out the rust and filled it with black RTV.

 

I'm also watching a bubble under the paint below the gas door. I should do something with that soon, but the car is 15+ y/o...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Can confirm - same exact spot as Enlight and Max. Passenger side where the quarter-panel meets the body above the wheel I have some small paint bubbling. Nothing on the driver/gas door side, though. This was repaired last spring and even with no winter driving last year it's starting to bubble again. Frustrating. The guy who looked at my car last year to fix the rust instantly commented on the rubber trim piece in the wheel well and how it notoriously traps dirt and water on Subarus, causing rust issues.
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I had rust bubbling at the front of my roof along the top edge of my windshield. They said that meant the windshield must have been replaced before I bought it, because that's usually how that spot happens. I had that spot fixed, though. Never had the wheel well fixed.
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Here's the old Ford currently, this past June I finally got around to gluing on the patch panels I bought back in 2009 for $19.00 from JC Whitney.

 

Looks good from a distance...LOL

 

This past summer I've had two random people come up to me and ask me if I wanted to sell it. It does have lot's of newer parts with not many miles in the last 6 years or so.

 

 

Oh I even found the old gas door, in a box in the shed, repaired the frozen hinge pin and put it back on.

 

2087581526_IMG_1002(1).JPG.c85fc64a82360f0e817ec60ca1174a75.JPG

 

DSCN8362.thumb.jpg.0ff0ecb5362ea9ddd098228bad27e39a.jpg

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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