lilredwagon Posted September 13, 2019 Share Posted September 13, 2019 Just noticed the tag...I love it!! Also the old wagon threw the A/C belt. The idler bearing is a bit stiff so the belt started to burn up. It rubbed through the connector to the compressor. I think the connector on the compressor, while rubbed through a little, is still operable. I'll have to do some testing to make sure there was no shorting out but I doubt it. I really don't want to have to replace the whole compressor due to the connector. Start calling junkyards. They would have it for like, $15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted September 13, 2019 Share Posted September 13, 2019 Start calling junkyards. They would have it for like' date=' $15.[/quote'] I have new belts and idler pulley that I am picking up from the dealer tomorrow (were about the same price as advance auto stuff) I am also going to the junk yard tomorrow (planned prior to this ordeal) and I'll also see if I can take the magnetic clutch from a junk yard car too so that there isn't a sketch connector left. Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 I have an AC compressor if you need it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 (edited) The good: I will be getting new rear hatch door glass. Will try to get 09 Outback limited one which is tinted from the factory. Another good: got rented aerator from home depot in my wagon, only needed to unbolt the handle from it. The bad: said aerator jumped over improvised wheel blocks when I was taking off from literally last light before I got home. Bolt on front handle hit the glass just right and shattered it in million pieces. I am lucky that there was old tint on it that held it somewhat together and somewhat in place. Will be calling the dealer tomorrow and scheduling install. Need to figure out how to get by with one car until that happens. On top of that smelling gas from the back of the car. Happy Friday the 13th everyone. Edited September 14, 2019 by SubOperator 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 (edited) Replaced the fuel pump output o-ring, fuel return o-ring, and fuel pump harness. Took it for a rip. Fuel prime/pressure issue and intermittent electrical problem appear to be solved. The S4 is waaay slower. Edited September 14, 2019 by Turkeylord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 woah... sorry to hear of that SubOperator. Turkeylord I don't know the history of your LGT. Heavily modded? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 woah... sorry to hear of that SubOperator. Turkeylord I don't know the history of your LGT. Heavily modded? I don't think I have a full mod list written down anywhere, so I'm going to work on it in this post. My guess is there will be numerous edits as I remember more stuff. Engine: Forged CP Pistons, Swain Tech Coated (SC7426 9:1) D25 Heads Cometic MLS Head Gasket (C4574-056 .056) MAP Head Studs KillerB Oil Pan KillerB Windage Tray KillerB Oil Pickup STI 11mm Oil Pump King Bearings AEM Oil Pressure Sensor Infamous Filtered Turbo Oil Feed Line Gates Timing Set + OEM Timing Belt Tensioner OEM Oil Cooler Fuel: Deatschwerks DW65c Fuel Pump Deatschwerks 850cc/min Fuel Injectors Upgraded Fuel Pump Wiring Tankful of E85 I/H/E: Cobb Cast 304SS Up Pipe EGT Delete Thermal Zero Up Pipe Blanket BNR HTA68 Turbo Cobb Catted Down Pipe AVO TMIC GFB Blowoff Valve TGV Delete Grimmspeed ECBS aFe Dry Filter AEM MAP Sensor Mr. Gasket 738G Turbo Gasket Drivetrain: WRX SMFW Clutch Masters FX300 Clutch Kartboy Short Throw Shifter Kartboy Front and Rear Shifter Bushings Centric Premium Blank Rotors StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads 2004 STI BBS Wheels with Custom Powder Coat 225/45R17 Continental DW Tires 215/45R17 Brigestone Blizzak WS70 Tires (stock wheels) Misc: Cobb AP V3 AEM FailSafe WBO2/Boost Gauge AEM Oil Pressure Gauge Whiteline 20mm RSB AVO RSB Reinforcement Brackets Company23 Replacement "Blue Tee" Custom built frank_ster Receiver Hitch Yakima EZ Rider Roof Rack and Skybox Pro 16s Optima Yellowtop AGM Battery Stinger 1/0 Power Lead (for future system?) Homelink Mirror DRL Delete Outback Rear Power Outlet E85 Fuel Cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 Oh shite. Heavily modded is an understatement. I'm guessing you were pushing a bit more than my BNR HTA68 given the E85, 9:1, and manual trans... besides that we had somewhat similar mod lists. I know the feeling of loss as well, my friend. These things die in the top end very quickly in stock form, and mine is only an A4 base. Looking forward to getting it tuned next year if I can wait that long (warranty). Stage 1 is as far as I'll go, most likely. Stage 2 just requires a high flow cat on top of Stage 1 but the gains are like 12 WHP and 2 WTQ (looking at APR's marketing stuff, anyway). What happened to it? Did it pop? Or just become unreliable DD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 The good: I will be getting new rear hatch door glass. Will try to get 09 Outback limited one which is tinted from the factory. Another good: got rented aerator from home depot in my wagon, only needed to unbolt the handle from it. The bad: said aerator jumped over improvised wheel blocks when I was taking off from literally last light before I got home. Bolt on front handle hit the glass just right and shattered it in million pieces. I am lucky that there was old tint on it that held it somewhat together and somewhat in place. Will be calling the dealer tomorrow and scheduling install. Need to figure out how to get by with one car until that happens. On top of that smelling gas from the back of the car. Happy Friday the 13th everyone. Sorry to see that. Any body shop can replace that for less money based on labor cost. May even your insurance may cover it with a glass company. The gas may have leaked from the machine. FWIW, this is why I keep my dads 86' Ford F150 around. Good Luck. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 Changed my oil and found a leak at my PS Rack. That does not look like a fun job. I guess I’m shopping for a 15+ STI rack. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 Changed my oil and found a leak at my PS Rack. That does not look like a fun job. I guess I’m shopping for a 15+ STI rack. With the rack I think I paid my trusted mechanic around $600 back in 2012. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 Well just finished put new Brembo pads, Centric rotors on the rear and rotors from AM Auto Parts on the front. I would have been done in 2 hours but had to wait for NAPA to get me yet another right front caliper. The one I installed Sept 19 2018 had frozen pistons and one slider that was stuck. It had 19,000 miles on it. The left front and first NAPA right front were done April 2017. At least they are free now. Had to wait until 1:30pm for the caliper to get there, I called them before 10AM. Put the wheels and tires from the Spec on the wagon, put the snowtires on the Spec, it doesn't get many miles so the snows will last a long time. The tires on the wagon were getting pretty shot, in heavy rain I could feel the car move around a bit. I have new snow tires for the wagons winter wheels but wanted to pick the four best looking wheels to put new summer tires on them for next year and put the new snows on the other four rims. While waiting for the caliper to come in, I went to move the old F150, for the second time today, I started then shut off after a second. I guessing its a coil or condenser. I have not replaced them, the distributor is a reman from a few years back, the plugs, wires, cap and rotor only have about 2000 miles on them, replaced them may be 4-5 years ago. Its a 1986 in case you need to know. When I get time, I'll pull the coil wire and have the GF turn it over and see if the coil is firing. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Oh shite. Heavily modded is an understatement. I'm guessing you were pushing a bit more than my BNR HTA68 given the E85, 9:1, and manual trans... besides that we had somewhat similar mod lists. I know the feeling of loss as well, my friend. These things die in the top end very quickly in stock form, and mine is only an A4 base. Looking forward to getting it tuned next year if I can wait that long (warranty). Stage 1 is as far as I'll go, most likely. Stage 2 just requires a high flow cat on top of Stage 1 but the gains are like 12 WHP and 2 WTQ (looking at APR's marketing stuff, anyway). What happened to it? Did it pop? Or just become unreliable DD?Unreliable DD. I think mostly bad luck. Engine is sorted as far as I know now, but I just don’t have time for it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Sorry to see that. Any body shop can replace that for less money based on labor cost. May even your insurance may cover it with a glass company. The gas may have leaked from the machine. FWIW, this is why I keep my dads 86' Ford F150 around. Good Luck. Got quoted mid-700 for dark tinted install at home by SafeLite Autoglass. My parts guy at the dealer gave me quote for ~330 for rear hatch glass. Clear LGT and tinited OB are same price, 2-3 days ETA. I will be going to SafeLite as 1) they'll come to home and install it in my driveway on the day I am working from home and 2) I don't want to screw up the glass install by either cracking or nicking it, or misaligning it, and 3) I don't have any tools for this work and I don't want to invest in learning this skill at this time. Sometimes its best to just pay the man. Bottom line guys - be careful with rear glass. Expensive to replace. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Glass coverage from your insurance provider is usually pretty cheap. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 With the rack I think I paid my trusted mechanic around $600 back in 2012. I’ll probably DIY it with a brand new rack. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Got quoted mid-700 for dark tinted install at home by SafeLite Autoglass. My parts guy at the dealer gave me quote for ~330 for rear hatch glass. Clear LGT and tinited OB are same price, 2-3 days ETA. I will be going to SafeLite as 1) they'll come to home and install it in my driveway on the day I am working from home and 2) I don't want to screw up the glass install by either cracking or nicking it, or misaligning it, and 3) I don't have any tools for this work and I don't want to invest in learning this skill at this time. Sometimes its best to just pay the man. Bottom line guys - be careful with rear glass. Expensive to replace. Do you still have the gas smell ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 My wagon won best 4th gen at West Coast Subaru Show! Super happy with the car. Its so good right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Well just finished put new Brembo pads, Centric rotors on the rear and rotors from AM Auto Parts on the front. I would have been done in 2 hours but had to wait for NAPA to get me yet another right front caliper. The one I installed Sept 19 2018 had frozen pistons and one slider that was stuck. It had 19,000 miles on it. The left front and first NAPA right front were done April 2017. When I get time, I'll pull the coil wire and have the GF turn it over and see if the coil is firing. From NAPA, the calipers are likely from Cardone, which they do a good job a repairing/reconditioning the castings, but the parts used to rebuild are crap. The best route (if starting fresh) is the rebuild the current calipers you have now with OE rebuild kits. The pistons are good from reman but all rubber is terrible. OE rubber will last 10+ years at least while reman with last 1-2 years. Also, the guide pin that has a bushing on the tip, get rid of the bushing. It is just asking to bind and seize at the first sight of moisture. In other news, turns out not only was my idler near seized for the AC belt, but the real reason I through a belt was a bad harmonic balancer. After installing new belts and idler, the belt got through instantly, and I saw the offset of the balancer. Already ordered a new one and should be in early this week. Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 (edited) Yeah, I remember the post about that leather type bushing on the guide pin being an problem years ago. I may have been one that posted about them back then. The NAPA calipers come in a nice box that's from Eclipse. FWIW, the brake pedal feels more like the Spec's more on the firm side. Don't remember the wagon felling this firm in a long time. As for the old Ford F150, here's a lesson for you young guy's. After thinking what I haven't replaced on the ignition system, the coil and condenser are the only things untouched after 34 years. I pulled the connector for the coil the two blades were green. I sprayed them with cleaner wire brushed them best I could, put it back together, truck started right up. Edited September 15, 2019 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 (edited) My wagon won best 4th gen at West Coast Subaru Show! Super happy with the car. Its so good right now. Good looking wagon. You should have a body shop paint two plugs for you to plug those plate holes in the front bumper. Not a good photo but you can kind of see them here. Edited September 15, 2019 by Max Capacity 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Yeah, I remember the post about that leather type bushing on the guide pin being an problem years ago. I may have been one that posted about them back then. The NAPA calipers come in a nice box that's from Eclipse. FWIW, the brake pedal feels more like the Spec's more on the firm side. Don't remember the wagon felling this firm in a long time. Yeah, Eclipse is just reboxed Cardone. There's a contract there between NAPA and cardone with the Eclipse calipers. It all comes from the same place in mexico (used to be Philadelphia). I used to work at Cardone (unfortunately) Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Good looking wagon. You should have a body shop paint two plugs for you to plug those plate holes in the front bumper. Not a good photo but you can kind of see them here. Car has a plate delete. Those are just the screws holding it on. No plans for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDTurbo Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Great looking rig; congratulations on the (major) award! Curious how long the hood liner has been gone...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted September 15, 2019 Share Posted September 15, 2019 Put 30 miles on the wagon with the brand new short block. Still need to track down an intermittent misfire and fix an oil leak, but it's almost there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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