Front and rear Speaker Replacements/setup

Just wanna see what everyone replaced their front and/or rear speakers with....mostly fronts

im about to order some in few days and wanna see what everyone else is getting

i myself have everything for good audio setup except front & rear speakers.

anybody not like what they have?

What kind of music do you listen to?

Do you know what type of sound or speakers you like? Harsh/soft highs, lots of midrange or midbass?

What's the rest of your system consist of? Amps or subs, or just the factory head unit?

And perhaps most importantly...budget?

i listen to everything all the time..

mostly want midrange and midbass but more midbass

i have a power acoustik touchscreen, kicker comp10's, hifonics mono D amp 1500

really want to stay less than $200 for fronts....just want to upgrade rears better than they are...i just wish rears were in the rear deck and rear doors or just in rear deck like most cars do...sounds so much better coming from that area

lol..damn really....alot of ppl say get alpine type r's

i was thinkin those or the polk mm6501 or the kickers

does anyone use the shallow mounts? any sound difference

Yeah I would ditch the rears and spend whatever you budgeted for them on the fronts too. Buy an amp, leave the rears unhooked or faded way down, and stick with some nice fronts. I'd say upgrade to the Type X Refs over the Type Rs, it would be very worth it and the Xs are very good components for midbass, at least compared to most 6.5" drivers.

Here's a couple other suggestions in that price range. There's obviously others to choose from as well.

JL VR Series

CDTs that come with rear fill speakers

I have JL Audio C3-650s and C2-c650x (I have a daughter who often rides in the back and likes to hear things).

The C3s are a bit more than $250. You can do the C2-650s for less than that, and the tweeters are a bit easier to install (but not as nice sounding).

I know you guys may know I am not the most intelligent when it comes to vehicles, but audio is MY THING!

Here is my system in my 05' Legacy LGT:

Using Raw Drivers in a 3 Way Active Configuration + Sub

H.U. : Using OEM H.U. + OEM Processor upgrade. I am using the Mini DSP 2 x 8

Tweets: Scanspeak HDS, off axis in A Pillars

Mids: Peerlss HDS 4" (GFC), off axis in Kick panels.

MB: Peerless SLS 6.5", off axis, IB in doors

Subwoofer: undecided

I may swap out my tweeters with a set of Hiquphons, or higher end Scans like the Illuminators. My dedicated midrange : Peerless HDS 4"s are staying! They are incredable! Not sure if you guys came across the review on diyma.com about these bad a** midranges, but they came RIGHT BEHIND the Dyn Esotars at litterally one fifth the cost (40 on madisound!) I do however prefer the paper cones vs my GFC's (glass fiber cone) The paper has more of a robust natural sound as paper cones tend to provide the most natural "sound." However, my GFC's have a more of an "open ness" presence. As far as My MB, I am in the process of fiberglassing door panels (they will be wrapped to maintain OEM look) I plan on housing a set of exodus anarchy mids in them. Check these guys out: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iGD0p0E42A]Anarchy Introduction - YouTube[/ame]

I am still in the process of choosing a subwoofer. I will be using a single subwoofer in the trunk.

As far as amplifiers go, I am currently running two Zapco 4 ch.'s

However I do miss my oldschool goodness so I may be swapping them out with something like older: Phoenix Gold, A/D/S, Audio Art, or Old PPI

I should post some pictures up on this forum:)

I will say my "system" kicks a** in terms of SQ. I am still tuning around with my software on the Mini DSP but it will get fine tuned at some point:) but hey thats the fun part

i listen to everything all the time..

 

mostly want midrange and midbass but more midbass

 

i have a power acoustik touchscreen, kicker comp10's, hifonics mono D amp 1500

 

really want to stay less than $200 for fronts....just want to upgrade rears better than they are...i just wish rears were in the rear deck and rear doors or just in rear deck like most cars do...sounds so much better coming from that area

You're on a budget? Head active with raw drivers. I highly suggest you run 3 way up front.

If you have any questions, feel free to email me at tylertraulich@hotmail.com or shoot me a pm, I am full of knowledge (audio)

You want midrange? Here is a good review on various midranges, i think you may find this interesting:http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/attachments/member-reviews-product-comparisons/18153d1273317468-4-midrange-comparison-shootout-dyn-scan-hat-more-midrange-test.pdf

As far as MB goes, Peerless SLS + exodus anarchy are GREAT options

Polk dB6501 components for the front (about $110 shipped) and dB651 coaxials for the rear (about $60 shipped). Add wiring adapters and then contact me for some adapters/spacers and you will be good to go.

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k271/phenryiv1/WRX/WRXStereo/wrxrear05.jpg

Actually, no matter what you go with you will likely need spacers, so shoot me a PM to discuss.

if you are going to run components, I would run a search to find the proper mounting location. I've been told by many members hear that an aftermarket amplified tweeter in the stock location is not the best. Even after tuning. Believe me, I know this for a fact.

True and False. Just because you are running aftermarket components + amplifying them with an aftermarket H.U. and placing your tweeters in stock locations does not always mean they will sound poor.

What will determine how good they sound is how you are applying them. Many people think when going about searching for a set of tweeters, they can choose any they want, the more expensive the better. FALSE!

Each tweeter is designed for a specefic application. Some play better down low, some play better up high, some can dip down low making them very suitable for 2 way applications (EX: large format tweeters), some are more designed to be positioned on a more "off axis" response, while others are designed to be postioned more "on axis."

Each tweeter will have a set of frequency graphs. USE THEM! A tweeters frequency response changes each degree. Example: A tweeters response "on axis" will be MUCH different than that same tweeter being "off axis."

Figure out what frequency range you are trying to achieve. Figure out whether you will be placing your tweeters off or on axis. When you have figured that out, check the frequency ranges of whatever "axis" you need and make sure they will achieve your desired frequency range. At the same time, keep in mind budget, and how much power you have available to run them. Another thing I will note on is soft vs hard dome. Typically Soft=above waste, hard=below waste. Yes this can be subjective but is a rule of thumb.

Sorry for the sketchy response, I am heading out the door but I think You get the idea. There's many factors that go into choosing drivers, in your case tweeters, and a lot of people either forget them or dont evan know they are there, and they wonder why their "tweeters" sound like sh*t. I have missed on a lot of things but got a few good key points you should keep in mind. I just didnt want you to believe that placing tweeters in stock location will always sound poor cuz thats totally FALSE!

It's a matter of process of elimination. Just figure out how you will be applying them, and you would be suprsied how many tweeters you can "x" off because I know for a fact they won't suit your needs just by specs (aka frequency graphs, that's why they are there, use them)

What kind of music do you listen to?

 

Do you know what type of sound or speakers you like? Harsh/soft highs, lots of midrange or midbass?

 

What's the rest of your system consist of? Amps or subs, or just the factory head unit?

 

And perhaps most importantly...budget?

 

The type of music he/she listens to will have NO affect when it comes to choosing speakers. Each component in General (lets not compare tweeters vs midrange vs MB) will play ALL music.

This gets confused more with Cone Material, tweeter composition, whether or not to go 2 vs 3 way, etc.

Maybe this will help: ...You cant assume that just because listener A likes hip hop, he wants strong MB, thus why everyone tells him/her to head with Glass Fiber Cones, because they are strong cones and typically provide much stronger MB vs something of paper or poly.

whoops i have JL 650 c2s in the rear but they dont do anything

psycho acoustics studies have shown that when sitting up front (driver OR passenger) a listener will hear on average 83-89% of the music up front.

...dont every try pulling your soundstage back, keep it up front, thats where it belongs.

whens the last time you have ever been to a concert where the people on stage are playing behind you? Don't know about you, but when I go to concerts, the people on stage are ALWAYS playing up front IN FRONT OF ME.

Polk dB6501 components for the front (about $110 shipped) and dB651 coaxials for the rear (about $60 shipped). Add wiring adapters and then contact me for some adapters/spacers and you will be good to go.

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k271/phenryiv1/WRX/WRXStereo/wrxrear05.jpg

 

Actually, no matter what you go with you will likely need spacers, so shoot me a PM to discuss.

Hey whats your take on the polks....

do you like them, do they sound good, better than OEM?

i noticed the difference the front speakers made after installing my touchscreen so do you think they will sound better..

my front right speaker is popping real bad and will eventually give out thats why i will be getting new speakers sometime this week...

or anyones take on the polks since so many have them

Yeah I would ditch the rears and spend whatever you budgeted for them on the fronts too. Buy an amp, leave the rears unhooked or faded way down, and stick with some nice fronts. I'd say upgrade to the Type X Refs over the Type Rs, it would be very worth it and the Xs are very good components for midbass, at least compared to most 6.5" drivers.

 

Here's a couple other suggestions in that price range. There's obviously others to choose from as well.

JL VR Series

CDTs that come with rear fill speakers

how much do you know about these CDTs with the rear fill speaker?...

are they any good? any bad rep?...the two fronts and the rear fillers are almost perfect especially for price.

how much do you know about these CDTs with the rear fill speaker?...

 

are they any good? any bad rep?...the two fronts and the rear fillers are almost perfect especially for price.

I've never listened to them myself so I can't give a first-hand account of their sound. CDTs are generally known as good quality for the price. These use a silk tweeter which is what I usually prefer personally and CDTs tend to have decent midbass output in a properly deadened door. They'd probably sound fairly good, but I can't personally say for sure.

Are you going to amp whatever speakers you choose?

The type of music he/she listens to will have NO affect when it comes to choosing speakers. Each component in General (lets not compare tweeters vs midrange vs MB) will play ALL music.

I disagree. Sure the components will all play the music, but listeners of different music generally have different goals for how they wan't their system to sound. Certain sets of speakers accomplish certain goals better than others.

I've never listened to them myself so I can't give a first-hand account of their sound. CDTs are generally known as good quality for the price. These use a silk tweeter which is what I usually prefer personally and CDTs tend to have decent midbass output in a properly deadened door. They'd probably sound fairly good, but I can't personally say for sure.

 

Are you going to amp whatever speakers you choose?

 

 

 

I disagree. Sure the components will all play the music, but listeners of different music generally have different goals for how they wan't their system to sound. Certain sets of speakers accomplish certain goals better than others.

"Certain sets of speakers accomplish certain goals better than others" ????? ..so maybe instead of asking them they type/genre of music they listen to, you should directly ask how they want their speakers to "sound." I am talking about tweeter composition and cone material.

You are wrong: Do you want to know the reason why many people believe what your take on this? It's because when someone says I listen to hip hop, YOU automatically think this guy wants some speakers that can withstand some "thump" so maybe you RECOMEND them a speaker with "tought" cone composition.

BUT! How do you know this guy doesn't like the robust natural presence that a paper or perhaps poly cone gives?

You don't, you just automatically assume that because someone listens to hip hop, they need a component set with "beefy mids."

Trust me, this topic has been reviewed/discussed on diyma.com LOTS of times. The forum over there is no joke. Many of the "owners" of audio "brands" are members there as well as multipe Iasca, ICE, judges from Sema, Meca, etc.

Hey whats your take on the polks....

 

do you like them, do they sound good, better than OEM?

 

i noticed the difference the front speakers made after installing my touchscreen so do you think they will sound better..

 

my front right speaker is popping real bad and will eventually give out thats why i will be getting new speakers sometime this week...

 

or anyones take on the polks since so many have them

I advise you to listen to my advice, as I am confident I know my audio.

I have personally heard the polks before, as with MANY different sets of speakers. I installed a set of Polk MM's in my father's boat. I must say that the strongpoint on that specific component set is the tweeters. Very soft, very warm tweeters. The MB however, was on the light side, most comparable to DLS. Very neutral. But than again sir, everyone ear's are different and everyone percieves sound differently. What may sound "good" to one, may sound "poor" to another.

If you happen to not go with the Polks, I have mutlipe sets of specific "component sets" if you are interested. Some include DLS UP5i, Boston Pro's, and a set of Dynaudio Esotecs. If you would like to get into going "active" w/ raw drivers, feel free to contact me.

Those Polk coaxials will 'work' fine. However, I hope you plan on using an external amplifier and possibly a processor. To be honest, you will not get full potential out of those Polks w/out using an external amplifier. Most H.U.'s only put out a mere 18-22 RMS, if.

If I were you I would ditch those coaxials, and head with a set of components. ...your ears aren't down by your shins are they?

This is for your front stage correct?

Here is a link to a set of speakers That you may be interested in. Like the Polks they are 5.25." The polks are of that dimention correct? This set of component speakers feature a neodyium magnet, very small very powerful magnet making installation a breeze at just about any depth. The tweeters on this set are soft domes, very warm, much like the polks. Another reason why I am giving you this option is because many people have had great "off axis" response w/ DLS in general. These will suit your application perfectly. As far as tweeter location, your stock locations will be perfect. Since the tweeters are "soft domes" generally above waste is where to place them. I am not sure your knowledge on "audio" in general, but the tweeters are actually produced by a company called "Scan Speak." Scan Speak is a TOP contributor in the audio world competing with high end companies like Dynaudio, Morel, Zapco, Helix, Focal, Rainbow, etc etc. They are a company out of Denmark, known for producing some of the wolrds finest tweeters. This is no joke btw. So, the tweeters on this component set kick a**. Actually, the tweeters on higher end Focal component sets ARE produced by scanspeak. I believe both the utopea + berylium set which range between 2k-4k per component set. Alpines highest line of is called the "F" series, you may know this by F1 series. Those tweeters to, are also actually scanspeak tweeters.

here is a link to the component set: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/116332-dls-up5i.html

I know I have set the price @ 146.50. I would like to get 150 solid, you pay for shipping. I bought these as a "for now" component set untill my front stage was complete. I since then, have swapped them out and they have been on the shelf for a while. I paid 330 from sonicelectronix.com. Before ordering I contacted a DLS distributor in Florida (only one in the states) just to make sure they weren't "fakes" or refurbs. I feel 150 is fair. Amplify them:)

how much do you know about these CDTs with the rear fill speaker?...

 

are they any good? any bad rep?...the two fronts and the rear fillers are almost perfect especially for price.

There is better choices out there for the $$$

CDT is known for a bit on the "Bright side." I will say though, I have great luck with their M6's for dedicated MB.

Are we talking coaxial or component? If it's "rear fill" don't focus on tweeters. If I were you, I would look into raw drivers...if you have the equipment. You will ditch paying for any "mainstream" brand and price/sound, you can't beat it.

I advise you to listen to my advice, as I am confident I know my audio.

I have personally heard the polks before, as with MANY different sets of speakers. I installed a set of Polk MM's in my father's boat. I must say that the strongpoint on that specific component set is the tweeters. Very soft, very warm tweeters. The MB however, was on the light side, most comparable to DLS. Very neutral. But than again sir, everyone ear's are different and everyone percieves sound differently. What may sound "good" to one, may sound "poor" to another.

 

If you happen to not go with the Polks, I have mutlipe sets of specific "component sets" if you are interested. Some include DLS UP5i, Boston Pro's, and a set of Dynaudio Esotecs. If you would like to get into going "active" w/ raw drivers, feel free to contact me.

 

Those Polk coaxials will 'work' fine. However, I hope you plan on using an external amplifier and possibly a processor. To be honest, you will not get full potential out of those Polks w/out using an external amplifier. Most H.U.'s only put out a mere 18-22 RMS, if.

 

If I were you I would ditch those coaxials, and head with a set of components. ...your ears aren't down by your shins are they?

 

This is for your front stage correct?

 

 

Here is a link to a set of speakers That you may be interested in. Like the Polks they are 5.25." The polks are of that dimention correct? This set of component speakers feature a neodyium magnet, very small very powerful magnet making installation a breeze at just about any depth. The tweeters on this set are soft domes, very warm, much like the polks. Another reason why I am giving you this option is because many people have had great "off axis" response w/ DLS in general. These will suit your application perfectly. As far as tweeter location, your stock locations will be perfect. Since the tweeters are "soft domes" generally above waste is where to place them. I am not sure your knowledge on "audio" in general, but the tweeters are actually produced by a company called "Scan Speak." Scan Speak is a TOP contributor in the audio world competing with high end companies like Dynaudio, Morel, Zapco, Helix, Focal, Rainbow, etc etc. They are a company out of Denmark, known for producing some of the wolrds finest tweeters. This is no joke btw. So, the tweeters on this component set kick a**. Actually, the tweeters on higher end Focal component sets ARE produced by scanspeak. I believe both the utopea + berylium set which range between 2k-4k per component set. Alpines highest line of is called the "F" series, you may know this by F1 series. Those tweeters to, are also actually scanspeak tweeters.

 

here is a link to the component set: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/116332-dls-up5i.html

 

I know I have set the price @ 146.50. I would like to get 150 solid, you pay for shipping. I bought these as a "for now" component set untill my front stage was complete. I since then, have swapped them out and they have been on the shelf for a while. I paid 330 from sonicelectronix.com. Before ordering I contacted a DLS distributor in Florida (only one in the states) just to make sure they weren't "fakes" or refurbs. I feel 150 is fair. Amplify them:)

when it comes to audio i am a novice...so i get a little lost when yall get too technical about it

so what exactly are raw drivers and would they be better than components...

i will eventually amp the door speakers but not just yet and i am not too concerned about the tweeters cuz from my experience they all sound pretty good with aftermarket stereo

sometimes i feel like my subs and tweeters outweigh my mids....so i really just want that full sound...and yea i adjust my settings also but still sometimes it just feels the mids arent as full as they should be...

Lue,

CAPS ARE MINE

when it comes to audio i am a novice...so i get a little lost when yall get too technical about it

UNDERSTOOD, NOT TRYING TO BE COCKY, I AM JUST GIVING DIRECT, TRUTHFUL ANSWERS. MY EXPERIENCE SO FAR WITH THIS FORUM SUCKS. I AM NOT A BRAIN UNDER THE HOOD, AND SOME OF MY QUESTIONS "ENGINE WISE" HAVE BEEN DISREGARDED INSTEAD OF HAVING PEOPLE HELP ME, BUT I MAKE UP FOR IT WHEN IT COMES TO AUDIO. YOU HELP ME, I HELP YOU. I WILL BE HANGING AROUND THE "AUDIO" SECTION ON THIS FORUM, AND AS SOON AS I SEE SOMEONE WHO HAS EITHER BASHED MY KNOWLEDGE "ENGINE WISE" OR HAS JUST GIVEN ME THE "SEARCH" RESPONSE INSTEAD OF HELPING ME, I WILL DO MY BEST TO "WRONG" AND MAKE THEM LOOK LIKE A COMPLETE DUMBA** BECAUSE MY KNOWLEDGE OUTWEIGHS THERES AND I WILL CORRECT THEIR POOR ADVICE.

so what exactly are raw drivers and would they be better than components...

RAW DRIVERS? JUST AS IT SAYS "RAW" DRIVERS. RAW DRIVERS ARE A GREAT WAY TO SAVE MONEY AND YOU CAN'T BEAT GOING THIS ROUTE PRICE/SOUND. RAW DRIVERS ARE TYPICALLY SOLD AS SINGLES, EXAMPLE: 1 MB, 1 TWEETER, 1 MIDRANGE, ETC. NOT SOLD AS SETS. YOU PAY FOR THE "RAW" DRIVERS THEMSELVES, NOT ANY BIG NAME BRAND. THEY ARE TYPICALLY USED IN "HOME" APPLICATIONS BUT ARE ALSO APPLIED TO CAR AUDIO APPLICATIONS. HERE 2 VERY WELL KNOWN WEBSITES (MADISOUND IS GREAT) THAT CARRY "RAW DRIVERS." TYPICALLY TEY WILL USUALLY COME IN 8 OHM LOADS, BUT DON'T WORRY THAT IS OKAY. THEY WILL ONLY SEE HALF OF WHAT YOU POWER THEM. MEANING IF YOUR AMPLIFIER PUTS OUT 100 RMS @ 4 OHM, AND YOU POWER IT TO AN 8 OHM SPEAKER, THE SPEAKER WILL ONLY SEE 50 RMS (HALF) OF WHAT YOU ARE GIVING IT. NOW I KNOW WHAT YOU'RE SAYING, YOU ARE GOING TO NEED SOME BIG AMPS TO RUN THESE. NOT TRUE: MOST 8 OHM SPEAKERS/DRIVERS NEED NO MORE THAN 30-40 RMS OR SO WHICH IS HALF OF WHAT YOU SEE MOST "CAR AUDIO BRANDS" RECOMEND. HERE MAYBE THIS WILL HELP, TAKE A GIVEN COMPONENT SET. NOW SINGLE OUT EITHER A TWEETER OR A MID, WHEN YOU HAVE SINGLED THAT DRIVER OUT, IT BECOMES A "RAW" DRIVER.

http://www.madisound.com/

http://www.parts-express.com/

EXAMPLE: TAKE A SET OF COMPONENT SPEAKERS MADE BY A COMPANY. IN THIS EXAMPLE, A 2 WAY PASSIVE SET (2 TWEETERS, 2 MIDS, 2 PASSIVE CROSSVERS) THEY TAKE A SET OF ORDINARY TWEETER, MIDS, AND THROW IN SOME CROSSOVERS AND SLAP A BIG NAME LIKE "POLK" ON THEM AND ALL OF A SUDDEN THEY ARE 10X THE PRICE. WHEN BUYING SPECEFIC COMPONENT SETS, TYPICALLY YOU PAY 50% FOR THE DRIVERS THEMSELVES AND 50% FOR THE "BIG BRAND NAME." YES, I JUST THOUGH OUT RANDOM PERCENTAGES, BUT YOU CATCH MY DRIFT.

LET'S SAY YOU HAVE $200 TO SPEND ON YOUR FRONT STAGE (JUST SPEAKERS, NOT ADDING IN INSALLATION COST, ETC.) YOU DECIDE TO KEEP IT SIMPLE, AND GO 2 WAY. YOU HAVE LOTS OF OPTIONS. FORGET ABOUT WHAT CIRCUMSTANCES YOU HAVE TO WORK WITH FOR NOW. YOU COULD BUY A SPECIFIC COMPONENT SET. REMEMBER, YOU WILL GET $100 WORTH OF THE DRIVERS THEMSELVES, THE OTHER $100 IS FOR THE "MAINSTREAM" BRAND NAME. SO REALLY, YOU'RE ONLY GETTING $100 WORTH OF DRIVERS THEMSELVES.

OR, YOU COULD GO WITH "RAW DRIVERS" AND BUY THEM INDIVIDUALLY. TYPICALLY THIS WILL BE CHEAPER, FLEXABILITY UPON MIXMATCHING DRIVERS BECOMES ALMOST INFINITE, AND YOU WONT BE PAYING FOR ANY BIG BRAND NAMES, JUST THE DRIVERS THEMSELVES. SO IN THIS SCENERIO, YOU WILL GET $200 WORTH OF DRIVERS WITH $200 VS BUYING A SPECIFIC COMPONENT SET WHERE YOU WILL BE ONLY GETTING $100 OF DRIVERS WITH $200 (THE OTHER $100 IS FOR THE BIG NAME LIKE "POLK" OR "JL" ETC.)

GET IT?

I WILL NOTE AGAIN ON FLEXABILITY. THIS BECOMES ENDLESS. WHEN PEOPLE HEAD THE "RAW DRIVER" ROUTE, THEY ARE HEADING "ACTIVE" USING ACTIVE CROSSOVERS. (COMPONENT SETS ARE SOLD WITH PASSIVE CROSSOVERS) I SURE HOPE YOU KNOW THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ACTIVE AND PASSIVE, IF NOT "SEARCH" DIYMA.COM. LETS GET BACK ONTO TOPIC AGAIN. FLEXABILITY. WHEN YOU BUY A SPECEFIC COMPONENT SET, YOU ARE STUCK WITH ALL THE COMPONENTS IN THAT SET. IF YOU DON'T LIKE THE TWEETERS, OR MIDS IN THAT SET, TOO BAD YOU ARE SUCK WITH THEM, YOU CAN'T JUST SWAP THEM OUT. WELL YOU CAN, BUT THAT DRIVER(S) YOU JUST SWAPPED OUT WERE SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO WORK WITH THAT PASSIVE CROSSOVER INCLUDED IN THAT SET AND MOST LIKELY IT WILL SOUND LIKE SH*T, UNLESS YOU RELALY KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. WITH RAW DRIVERS, YOU CAN PICK AND CHOOSE WHAT TWEETERS, MIDRANGES, MB'S YOU LIKE. SOME COMPANIES ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR SPECEFIC DRIVERS VS OTHERS. LIKE SCANSPEAK IS MOST NOTED FOR THEIR TWEETERS, WHILE RAINBOW OR PEERLESS AUDIO ARE MOST KNOWN FOR THEIR MIDS. (JUST AN EXAMPLE BTW, NOT EXACTLY TRUE) WELL NOW YOU HAVE THE OPTION OF GETTING THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS INSTEAD OF BEING STUCK WITH ONE OR THE OTHER.

EVER GO TO AN SQ COMPETITION? IASCA?

YOU WILL ALMOST NEVER SEE ANYONE COMPETING WITH SPECEFIC COMPONENT SETS. WHAT YOU WILL SEE IS THEM GOING ACTIVE WITH RAW DRIVERS, WHETHER IT BE 3 WAY, 4 WAY, OR EVAN 5 WAY, IT DOESN'T MATTER. A BIG PART IN RAW DRIVERS (OR I SHOULD SAY ANOTHER ADVANTAGE) IS HOW YOU ARE APPLY SPEAKERS/DRIVERS TO YOUR APPLICATION. EACH "RAW DRIVER" IS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR A SPECEFIC APPLICATION.

i will eventually amp the door speakers but not just yet and i am not too concerned about the tweeters cuz from my experience they all sound pretty good with aftermarket stereo

KEY WORD HERE, "FROM MY EXPERIENCE"

LIKE NOTED BEFORE, EVERYONE WILL PERCIEVE SOUND DIFFERENTLY. WHAT MAY SOUND "GOOD" TO YOU MAY SOUND "POOR" TO ME. IF YOU ARE HAPPY WITH YOUR "SOUND" THAN THAT'S GREAT! ITS ALL SUBJECTIVE. HOWEVER, HOP IN MY SQ ORIENTED VEHICLE OR SIT IN A COMPETITION VEHICLE AND MOST LIKELY YOU WILL CHANGE YOUR THOUGHTS ON HOW WELL YOUR SYSTEM SOUND TO YOU.

sometimes i feel like my subs and tweeters outweigh my mids....so i really just want that full sound...and yea i adjust my settings also but still sometimes it just feels the mids arent as full as they should be...

YOU WON'T EVER GET FULL POTENTIAL OUT OF YOUR SPEAKERS IF YOU DON'T AMPLIFY THEM WITH THE POWER THEY NEED. WHEN YOU SAY MIDS, TWO THINGS COME INTO MIND. MB, OR MIDRANGE? WHAT ONE ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? IN A 2 WAY APPLICATION "MIDS" PRODUCE BOTH YOUR MIDRANGE, AND YOUR MIDBASS FREQUENCIES (THIS IS KNOWN AS YOUR "POINT SOURCE") WHILE IN A 3 WAY APPLICATION "MIDS" ARE KNOWN AS YOUR DEDICATED MIDRANGE THUS ONLY PRODUCING MIRANGED FREQUENCIES WHILE YOUR DEDICATED MB ARE PRODUCING ONLY MB, AND YOUR TWEETERS ARE PRODUCING "HIGHER" FREQUENCIES.

I SEE ALL TOO OFTEN PEOPLE COMPLAIN ABOUT THEIR LACK OF MIDRANGE CLARITY WITH THEIR 2 WAY COMPONENT SETS. THE THING THEY ARE MISSING HERE IS A DEDICATED MIDRANGE. INSTEAD OF HAVING DEDICATED MIDRANGES, THEY ARE LETTING THEIR "MIDS" OF THEIR COMPONENT SETS PRODUCE "BOTH" MIDRANGE AND MIDBASS AT THE SAME TIME! NOT GOOD! YOU WANT TO "SEPERATE" AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE, LET EACH DRIVER BE RESPONSABLE FOR THEIR OWN SET OF FREQUENCIES. NOW WHEN YOU GO 3 WAY W/ DEDICATED MIDRANGES NOW YOU HAVE TAKEN THE STRESS OF THAT PREVIOUS "MID" AND NOW YOU HAVE YOUR MID PLAYING ONLY MIDRANGE AND YOUR MB PRODUCING ONLY "MB" FREQUENCIES.

POINT IS, WHAT DO YOU THINK WILL PLAY MORE ACCURATELY. 1 SPEAKER PRODUCING ALL FREQUENCIES, OR 5 SPEAKERS, EACH HAVING THEIR OWN SPECEFIC FREQUENCY RANGE.

YOU GOT IT! 5 OFCOURSE

I POSTED A LINK ABOVE SOMEWHERE. READ THE FIRST BIT OF IT, IT WILL TELL YOU ALL ABOUT HOW IMPORTANT DEDICATED MIDRANGE IS. AFTERALL, THIS IS YOUR "HEART AND SOUL" "MEAT AND POTATOES" OF YOUR SYSTEM. THE MAJORITY OF THE "SOUND" (FREQUENCIES) YOU HEAR IN A SYSTEM COME DIRECTLY FROM YOUR MIDRANGE FREQUENCIES

Now, SOMEONE TELL ME HOW TO REMOVE MY INTAKE SILENCER TO MAKE MY TURBO LOUDER, AND DISCUSS MODS THAT I CAN DO W/OUT DESTROYING MY 5EAT TRANNY AND I WILL BOOST YOUR KNOWLEGE ON APPLYING AUDIO TO CABINS OF VEHICLES. KEEP THE QUESTIONS COMING.