Header turbo removal? What am I missing

Team,

 

I am breaking down the engine because I lost cylinder 4. So I am in the process of taking off the header and turbo set up from the long block. What the heck am I missing here? I took of the three 14 mm header bolts on each side, 6 in all. What else is holding this thing on? I got the header to come off the studs a little bit but, I don’t want to pry on it if there is a bolt and/or bracket holding this guy up. I haven’t taken the heat shield off because the thing is a rusty pos so there may be something under there?

You are missing the 2 bolts by the turbo brace. The bracket is connected to the front motor mount and is between the downpipe and turbo exhuast outlet.

Don't forget the oil hard lines if you haven't done those yet either.

Motor mount is off yes sir. Oil line on the back of the head check. Thanks team, turbo brace, it was late and I couldn’t see it. Pb blasting here now

Alright guys, so I am down to the short block, those of you that said it was the valves were correct!!!! Totally fucked, is there a reason it happens on these cars? I was expecting ring land... anyway, what else should I do since I am in here? Tgv delete? I’m going to do a catless down pipe and catback, so I need a tune as it is... I’m just struggling with the idea of putting it back in when I can probably do a few things to make it better? Cooling mod cylinder four? Thoughts and ideas welcome

read up on downpipes, seems people have issues with overboosting with catless DPs. check and replace the oil feed lines if they're rusty while you're in there, consider doing a 26mm front sway bar while the engine's out(and replace the rear as well, it'll make a world of difference, the 20mm sti sway bars bolt up), and replace anything leaky along with general maintenance/cleaning, and change the PCV valve while you've got everything apart. if you're staying stockish these engines are pretty solid, but if you plan on going big turbo in the future check out fabsx's build thread and also his for sale thread for some ideas and goodies...

This is your wife's car, right? I would just fix the head, it you want some more power just do Cobb AP. It does make a significant seat of the pant difference. If you want it louder do an aftermarket exhaust.

 

For the burnt valve, some have theorized the leaner stock tune stretches the valves and reduces the valve clearances. When it is zero the valve stay opens and burn the valve. It is almost is always cylinder #4 since it runs the hottest. At the very least, the rebuilt head will last anther 100k+ miles, the stock motor will be done by then.

No on the big turbo, just want to get a bit more power out of it, little more fun. I think the sway bars are a great idea. Pcv is smart, any other preventative maintenance? Cooling mod, do you guys like it or use it? Edited July 31, 2020 by 19transam81

Clutch lever, turbo coolant lines if in the rust belt. I didn't do any coolant mods, probably not going to either. It is probably not a bad idea to replace the intake and TB gaskets, injector gaskets/o-ring, coolant crossover gaskets. At 127k miles on the 2011 GT that I just did the heads over on, all those gaskets seem dried out and some were brittle.

I replaced my oil cooler when I did it as well. Not necessarily something that is traditionally changed, but I didn't want to take any chances.

Also change all of the banjo bolts that have filters on them. They're on the AVCS oil lines, you can tell which ones have it as the bolt heads have a protruding dot on them versus the other banjo oil bolts are flat