What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

Well, for a daily, dropping the exhaust manifold and turbo to do the timing belt seems a tad excessive. If the bolt is short, a ratcheting box wrench will make short work of it, and removing the line at the oil cooler lets you get to the angled bolt more easily (it might be possible to get a flex socket onto that bolt, using extensions from either the area around the oil filter or over the downpipe...) - access doesn't look too horrible once the radiator, etc. is out of the way... at least you can see what you are doing and don't have to do everything by feel!

 

I only have a bit over 50k on my car, and 6.5 yrs, so I have some time before I'll have to do it.

 

(one thing's for sure - I would have been pretty annoyed tearing into things only to find that the service manual left out a few bolts! going through the service manual, it's just not there! you can find the line when looking at the oil cooler remove/install procedure, but for the water pump it's not even mentioned in the 2010, 11, or 12 service manuals!)

Well, for a daily, dropping the exhaust manifold and turbo to do the timing belt seems a tad excessive. If the bolt is short, a ratcheting box wrench will make short work of it, and removing the line at the oil cooler lets you get to the angled bolt more easily (it might be possible to get a flex socket onto that bolt, using extensions from either the area around the oil filter or over the downpipe...) - access doesn't look too horrible once the radiator, etc. is out of the way... at least you can see what you are doing and don't have to do everything by feel!

 

It really wasn't too bad to drop the exhaust manifold and turbo down as one unit. It was 6 manifold bolts, downpipe support bracket bolts, a coolant hose and oil hose, the 2 cat back back bolt and 1 exhaust hanger bolts. Obviously it take time, but the work wasn't hard. I probably fought with reinstalling the water pump more than I did line turbo and exhaust manifolds back up either.

 

The 2 bottom bolts aren't that long.

 

I am pretty sure the heat shield bolt could have come out with a ratcheting wrench. I did bend down the heat shield for better access to the coolant hose that came right to the side and went behind the drivers side rear timing cover. That hose is really short so it doesn't have a lot flexibility to take off or put on. I did not remove the rear timing belt cover, so maybe that would have improve access to that hose.

 

I had looked up at my car engine at the oil cooler pipe bolt. I may have been able to get that bolt out, but I do not have the skill level to get it back in. It would be difficult to just get the bolt back. In removing the water pump I slightly bend the pipe and the hole did not not line up to put the bolt back in, I had to remove the white bolt I circle to get the flange lined up to put the bolt back in.

Edited April 2, 2018 by dgoodhue

How did you like the camlock and crank pulley tools? they worked well? I was looking at the camlock tool and was actually thinking I would need the cam pulley tool, rather than the crank pulley tool, and maybe fabricate something for the crank pulley... or put it in gear and have someone holding the brakes when tightening/loosening the crank bolt. Did you just use the old timing belt + vise grips to hold the cam pulleys?

My fogs aren't in great shape. Sanded them down with 2000 grit and finished with 3000 grit and wrapped them.

 

Before and after .

2015 wrx Mishimoto radiator and fan install

My fogs aren't in great shape. Sanded them down with 2000 grit and finished with 3000 grit and wrapped them.

 

Before and after .

Mine had a lot of crud on the inside, making them look very hazy - I cleaned them out a while back and they have stayed clear. Yours look like they might have stuff in the inside of the lens, as well - they are easy to clean, then just blow them out with compressed air.

Mine had a lot of crud on the inside, making them look very hazy - I cleaned them out a while back and they have stayed clear. Yours look like they might have stuff in the inside of the lens, as well - they are easy to clean, then just blow them out with compressed air.

Thanks! I'll give it a shot

How did you like the camlock and crank pulley tools? they worked well? I was looking at the camlock tool and was actually thinking I would need the cam pulley tool, rather than the crank pulley tool, and maybe fabricate something for the crank pulley... or put it in gear and have someone holding the brakes when tightening/loosening the crank bolt. Did you just use the old timing belt + vise grips to hold the cam pulleys?

 

They both worked well. I think one would need the cams pulley if you were removing the rear timing cover.

 

The camlock locks the two riverside pulls in place, you remove the AVCS covers (note oil comes out of them, which I did not think through) and they lock the pulleys in place. The hex head was a little tight going into the camshaft pulleys but otherwise it went perfectly smooth.

 

For the crank pulley I wanted to be able to torque the crank pulley to spec 35ft# and then 60 degrees. I could have tightened the bolt in gear & brakes to tighten the crank bolt, but I would have been guessing. I wanted to do it right. (I also torque pretty much every bolt to spec in the service manual) the crank pulley tool was easy to use to tighten the crank bolt. I had removed the crank pulley using an impact.

Swapped to a lower mileage motor. Done with a small bag of tools I keep in the car since I’m between permanent garages. Didn’t have my box or compressor. With a borrowed cherry picker.

10,12,14mm wrenches and 3/8” sockets, mostly deep but 14mm standard used a few times. Had to run to get 3/8 swivel joint for nuts at lowest mount to tranny. Assuming they went from bolt to stud and nut on lowest one because axles are right there.

I’m into it about 6 hours with exhaust mounting and oil/coolant fill left.

 

I’m gonna take some pics tomorrow with a diy thread.

Edited April 2, 2018 by reeg420

I rotated my snow tires. Nokian Hakkapilitta R2 marks tire tread with tread depth numbers, so the number wears away once you get to that depth. While doing my timing belt, I had a little bit of panic as I noticed the 8 had been worn away on my fronts. I had just bought the tires this past winter and had 7400 miles on them. The tires had 12/32 of tread new, so that is a much higher wear rate than I expected given my past experience with Nokians and these are not cheap snow tires. I looked at the rear and the 8 was faintly visible. I grabbed my tire depth gauge and I figure out those numbers are mm. The front tires were just a tad under 10/32nd, rear was just a tad over 10/32nd. My 2.5i had the same exact line of tire just in the stock 16" size and the marks were 32nd.

They both worked well. I think one would need the cams pulley if you were removing the rear timing cover.

So it sounds like you don't need to remove the rear timing cover to get the water pump out? The service manual has you do that (which is why I was thinking of getting the cam pulley tool) - but if it's not necessary, that's great news!

 

For tightening the crank bolt, I was planning to do what I have done for our Odyssey which has a similar torque to x ft-lbs, then tighten 60 degrees - I was going to mark the crank pulley (since it's keyed, it's not going to go anywhere on it's own as you tighten the bolt)

Got my summer shoes installed today, and getting alignment tomorrow.

 

http://i.imgur.com/J8b2iqth.jpg

So it sounds like you don't need to remove the rear timing cover to get the water pump out? The service manual has you do that (which is why I was thinking of getting the cam pulley tool) - but if it's not necessary, that's great news!

 

I didn't but I also dropped the exhaust for clearance. Maybe removing the rear timing cover makes it possible to access the lower bolt? IDK

 

For tightening the crank bolt, I was planning to do what I have done for our Odyssey which has a similar torque to x ft-lbs, then tighten 60 degrees - I was going to mark the crank pulley (since it's keyed, it's not going to go anywhere on it's own as you tighten the bolt)

 

I had done the crank pulley on my 2.5i to install LWCP before with help from my neighbor to step on the brakes. The crank bolt feels springy when your trying to tighten it. It probably torqued properly, but I wasn't sure if the clutch slipped or not but I probably should have marked the crank. I was going remove the LWCP on 2.5i before I sold it, but neighbor wasn't home.

 

I bought the tool, because I didn't want to rely on my neighbor, plus it gives me peace of mind and makes it easier. The $50 for the tool was worth the savings vs. paying a mechanic to do the installation. I usually buy the right tool anyways to add to my collection of tools, you never know when you will need it again.

Had a few smaller yet annoying chips in the windshield. Wife kept complaining about them. Had some faded dealer installed tint (live in TX).

 

So took the car to a tint place. They stripped the faded tint. Replaced the windshield. Re-tinted the whole car with ceramic tint and then also tinted the windshield with clear / high UV rejection ceramic too. Oh yeah - also door handle cups.

Great idea to do the door cups! You'll be shocked by the difference even the clear UV works if you have a dark interior

Oh man, that light bar. I want, but with Houston's lights, I don't need it...

 

Also, I did this bc I'm a 16 yr old ricer

Edited April 6, 2018 by zentrandi

Finally found my ailing tpms sensor which has caused me to ignore the light for over a year. Every time I took it in the light went off. $60 but oh well.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

If any of you can comment on this I'd appreciate it.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269199

Installed Carpenterltd's lower grille applique and traded out the zip ties for proper OEM hardware on my foglights tonight.

I was going to install my Perrin IC to TB coupler, but I ran out of time and I didn't get around to it. The charge pipe on these engine are much more difficult to remove than I would have expected. I can see the charge pipe become brittle and problematic as these cars age. I found my missing radiator bolt in the inlet to my IC. I must have dropped in turbo outlet, when I did my timing belt and it go pushed up there. Yikes!

 

I flushed my Power Steering system and made a mess of that. I should have read the SM before I started the engine and introduced a bunch air into my power steering.

 

In cleaning up my garage, I realized that timing smaller cover fell off. I will need to pull the engine apart again. I will do that after I get my Syclone on the road this summer, so I can do that over multiple days instead rushing. The next time I will do a better job cleaning my engine compartment.

 

Not exactly a productive day.

Edited April 8, 2018 by dgoodhue

Finally made something other than toys with my 3D printer:

Nice falcor! I bet that's more sturdy than the vent mount that comes with with AP

 

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Finally made something other than toys with my 3D printer:

 

When do they go on sale?

There was a model someone had on GrabCAD I have been eyeing for awhile, but I didn't want to pay to have it made. It was one of my first prints and I cut up this one, but have modified it in Tinkercad so that it is just print and assemble. Still need to print that one.

 

I'll let you guys know when it is finalized. I'm looking forward to making bits for the car.

Nice falcor! I bet that's more sturdy than the vent mount that comes with with AP

 

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It is. I was using the MPOW magnet vent mount up till today. The COBB one was just too bulky for my taste.