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How to Install the TransGo 5EAT-HD2 shift kit - A Detailed Walkthrough


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This is a highly detailed walkthrough of how to install a TransGo shift kit into your 2005-2007 5EAT. It is incomplete, as I stopped uploading photos at around the point where it goes back together the same way it came apart.

 

You can save money on such a kit by ordering a TransGo RE5R05A HD-2 kit, best price usually through eBay. They are the same physical kit, just with different instructions. The TransGo 5EAT official instructions are located here (scroll down for download link) https://document.li/LUpl

 

HexMods F1 Valve Body vs TransGo 5EAT-HD2 Shift Kit: The HexMods F1 was designed around the TransGo shift kit, so the differences are minor. There were other obvious differences, such as the HexMods F1 being sold as a complete plug & play product with strong technical support and a great warranty, as where the TransGo kit is a box of parts plus PDF instructions. Yet at the end of the day TransGo makes a good product, so I do recommend the TransGo kit to enthusiasts with the requisite level of skill to install properly. It is likely the case that I know more about the 5EAT valve body than most aftermarket specialists in the world, due largely to investing a massive amount of time studying it, tracing every passage way and figuring it all out bit by bit. I specialize in just this one Jatco (Subaru/Nissan 5AT) transmission platform. Other companies work on a larger variety of transmissions, thus limiting the amount of time and resources they can commit to this obscure platform.

As for this walkthrough, it drives me crazy when I cannot get good information out of people who know more about a topic than I do. I try to share when I can, so here you go.

 

WARNING: No one wants to hear about any TransGo shift kit installers ending up in a world of hurt by messing up the install, so here is a guide to help you install this kit with minimal room for error. If you do ANYTHING with your valve body and it does not work right as a result, you have done so at your own risk, and I am not responsible. The valve body contains many small parts, many of which are spring loaded.

Side note, if you lose a tiny part from the valve body, I almost certainly can mail you any replacement parts.

 

I found a couple small errors in the TransGo paperwork (I am a detail freak) so stick to these instruction in this walk-through and you will have more detail upon which to help your install than the TransGo instructions.

 

I tried to make this walkthrough look as simple as possible, down to the tiny details. Pictures tell most of the story.

 

BEFORE YOU BEGIN:

Confirm that you want this upgraded valve body in your car. It is finicky.

Upsides:

-Much faster, firmer shifts.

-Generally good manners once the car is warmed up, transparent at low throttle (which is most of driving).

-Will increase transmission longevity especially with upgraded power levels.

Downsides:

-Clunks when cold when shifting through PRND.

-Does not like quick releasing of the throttle, tends to clunk when the vehicle reverts from a lower gear back to a higher cruising gear.

-Will occasionally clunk in general.

Other comments:

-If you have significantly more torque than stock, you don't really have a choice.

-There will still be the same electronic delay between when you push button shift and when the shift executes.

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Supplies (Updated 2017):

These pictures are back from 2012. The type of tool has not changed much for me, the quality of tool has. A metal table is especially handy.

Microflex Supreno SE Gloves, LOVE these.

Variety of flat head screwdrivers (very helpful with installing VB springs).

Small flat plyers.

Pick tool.

1/2" spade drill bit or similar (optional).

Magnetic pickup tool.

10mm deep socket(s).

Socket wrench.

Inch-pounds torque wrench.

DuPont lint free shop towels, you will only need a dozen or less.

Vaseline or trans assembly lube.

CLEAN work space.

OPTIONAL: Drill with clutch for installing bolts quickly and gently. Electric impact for removing bolts quickly, though the impact rpm will cause ATF splatter.

You will notice in these pictures I am doing the work in my home. It is the only way I can guarantee no junk is flying around in the air, no dust from other projects, filtered central air. I got dirt in a center diff bearing once. I could hear it in there when I would free rotate the sleeve. Trust me, don't do this in a place that has the slightest amount of dirt/wind. It could mess up everything.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112285&stc=1&d=1329116147

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112287&stc=1&d=1329116147

 

 

Not pictured: TransGo drill bits.

Not pictured: Restrictor orifice. This can be useful occasionally, as it dampens a 1>2 excessively firm shift, which is disproportionately more powerful than the other shifts. You probably don't need it, unless your trans is too worn out to have the TCU learn around it like it does all the other gears, or is otherwise just finicky.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112286&stc=1&d=1329116147

 

 

HOW TO HOLD THE VALVE BODY:

 

Put a finger or two in the fluid fill port:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112288&stc=1&d=1329116147

 

Or hook the solid metal TOP end, not the side rod/sensor bracket:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112289&stc=1&d=1329116147

 

Or hook the inset hole in the filter plate:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112290&stc=1&d=1329116147

 

Or you can put your hand under the valve body, like how a waiter carries plates.

 

Or you can cup the two ends, as there is no fragile wiring or valves for an inch or two on either end, length wise.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Prepare the TransGo valves.

 

Put the small check ball in the valve. Then you put the tiny spring in. The tiny spring has one end with a smaller diameter than the other. Put the smaller end into the valve.

Use assembly lube to keep everything together.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112309&stc=1&d=1329169692

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112310&stc=1&d=1329169692

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112311&stc=1&d=1329169692

 

 

Now everything is ready and you can put it aside.

 

IMPORTANT NOTE ON TRANSGO VALVES:

They do not fit as precisely as OEM. The ODs (outside diameters) may be too big or too small, though this is rare. When you install your TransGo valves, make sure they slide freely inside their bores with the very mild spring pressure of the spring installed inside the small end of the valve. If a valve binds, call TransGo and request a new valve. This will of course hold up your install for a few days. This is very unlikely, but I have seen it several times.

Now if you really want to go crazy, grab your micrometer and compare all the OD steps to the OEM valves. If you have a micrometer, then you already know what is acceptable and what is too much variance. If you do not own a micrometer, don't even worry about this step.

 

 

Separately, as you will see, the boost valve springs come in two sets of two (one inner, one outer). I pair them white/white, and no-paint/no-paint.

There are two versions of boost valve spring seats, the longer skinnier (white replacement) one is most common. Neither type is better than the other. They're just different. I found a way to neutralize the difference and standardize the F1's boost valve spring. But TransGo chose to go this route, making a spring set for each option.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112312&stc=1&d=1329169692

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
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Let's start taking this thing apart.

 

There are 5x 10mm nuts/bolts visible on the top of the valve body. Loosen them all, not much though.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112314&stc=1&d=1329171176

 

This bolt...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112315&stc=1&d=1329171176

 

...and this bolt are both centering bolts; they center the top deck over the middle deck. Remove both all the way, put them aside.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112316&stc=1&d=1329171176

 

Drill makes this a lot faster; you will soon see why.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112317&stc=1&d=1329171176

 

Remove this tab that holds the temp sensor in place.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112318&stc=1&d=1329171538

 

 

Flip valve body on its side.

 

Gently remove the green connector with flat head screw driver (pictured here).

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112321&stc=1&d=1329172118

 

You will see two gold bolts on the left side of the mess of wires and the inhibitor switch (the name for the thing that tells the TCU/BIU what gear you are in). I'm removing one here (the other is directly above it):

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112319&stc=1&d=1329171701

 

Remove both of these bolts. These two bolts are different than all the other gold ones on the bottom of the valve body. See here, these two are like the one on the RIGHT (they have a centering ring near the head, and are a little shorter. The normal bolts are like the one on the LEFT below, which have no centering ring.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112320&stc=1&d=1329171701

 

Lastly, remove the last nut/bolt that holds on this inhibitor switch bracket. Batch it with the two special centering bolts you just removed, and put aside. Then you just remove the inhibitor switch (aka PRND sensor).

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112324&stc=1&d=1329171956

 

Here is the inhibitor switch, removed. It looks strong because it is attached to a metal bracket, which then bolts to another metal bracket (from which you removed it), but the plastic sensor part is actually pretty fragile. I have seen a couple broken ones, and you can't buy them separately. So be mindful.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112325&stc=1&d=1329172428

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
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Time to get that green connector and wires out of the way. Remove the two bolts that hold the connector's bracket to the valve body.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112329&stc=1&d=1329175534

 

Also bend up the black plastic tab that holds the wires near the filter plate.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112330&stc=1&d=1329175805

 

Move all the connectors out of the way of the bottom plate, so you can later pull off the top plate with all wires/solenoids attached (we'll get there soon). As always, do not tug on wires.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112331&stc=1&d=1329175805

Removed a few more bolts...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112332&stc=1&d=1329176004

 

Filter/pickup strainer removed and off to the side, in a CLEAN place.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112341&stc=1&d=1329177443

 

Remove every bolt except what is pictured. Filter plate has come off, as have the 7 bolts under it. An electric drill will speed up the removal of all these bolts. Do not mix them up with other bolts you removed previously.

The bolt circled in GREEN does not ever get touched. It holds on the emergency high pressure relief.

What you're going to do next is squeeze the three plates together with one hand, while with the other hand you remove the gold nuts circled in RED. Then lay the valve body bottom down, and release.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112334&stc=1&d=1329176404

 

Remove two final centering bolts. This one (which is the shorter of the two)...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112335&stc=1&d=1329176690

 

...and this one (the longer of the two):

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112336&stc=1&d=1329176690

 

The dog is of no help. At least she doesn't shed.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112337&stc=1&d=1329176862

 

You're going to move the top deck of the valve body. Grip it by pinching at each of the two rivets by the memory box (the black plastic square).

Move it to a clean place where it can sit. It will want to drip a lot of fluid.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112338&stc=1&d=1329176925

 

I have a straining rack over a plastic bin to catch all the fluid, but you could just use several layers of paper towel (though the fluid will bleed through pretty much anything).

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112339&stc=1&d=1329176925

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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As you already have seen, the 5EAT valve body is a stupid complicated valve body with 3 metal layers and 2 black divider plates.

Now you remove the top divider plate, and put it aside.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112350&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

This is the time where it starts to get more critical that you follow directions. Grab the middle metal layer AND the bottom black divider plate, keeping them together. Flip them over, still held together.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112351&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

Put them some place where they can drip or where the ATF can be absorbed. Inspect to see if any of the 4 small filters are stuck in the black divider plate. Occasionally some will stick in the black divider plate.

Now you can lift up the black divider plate, and put it aside.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112352&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

Still looking at the bottom side of the middle metal plate, there are 7 slots where check balls can go, circled. But there are only ever 5 check balls in this middle valve body layer, which are circled in BLUE.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112353&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

Easiest way to remove them is with a magnetic pickup tool. They are perfectly spherical and can roll far away from you if you give them the opportunity. So don't.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112354&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

Now looking at the bottom layer, which is sitting where you left it, there are 3 check balls, circled in BLUE.

Underneath each ball is a spring. Remove all with a magnetic pickup tool.

There are also the 4 small filters, circled in GREEN, which filter oil flow coming from the ATF pump heading to the solenoids/valves. If your valve body was previously modified by IPT, they will have thrown away these 4 little filters, so you won't have any. I do not recommend this, neither does TransGo. Maybe that is one of their modifications to 'increase oil flow' (though it certainly would not increase anything except the VB's resistance to internal clogging, contamination, and failure). I don't know. Maybe they're just lazy, maybe they do not think the filters are needed. Regardless, the engineers put the filters there for a reason, and given the level of intellect required to design one of these, I am convinced they knew what they were doing every step of the way. After all, the result is a valve body that never wears out within reasonable service life, can handle super high operating pressure, and is not hard to take apart (relative to the 08-09 Denso VB from hell). You should see how complicated it can get to rework something like the GM 4L60E valve body. By contrast, the Jatco 5AT valve bodies require very little to get them to behave very nicely. It is nice to work with such a capable foundation.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112355&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

The 3 balls and 3 springs stuck to magnetic pickup tool.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112356&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

I put all the check balls directly from the magnetic pickup tool into the assembly lube. That way they stay where I put them :)

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112357&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

Remove filters, be gentle.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112358&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

With bottom level now emptied of the aforementioned items, flip it and pour out that fluid.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112359&stc=1&d=1329182400

 

Now it's time to modify the valve body.

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Use screwdriver to lift up spring retainer tab. You will need to wiggle it a bit. Stiff spring.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112377&stc=1&d=1329197555

 

You can see here where you're doing this, on the bottom metal layer, in the nook. These springs can shoot out, so have something blocking their path when you pull up each tab.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112378&stc=1&d=1329197555

 

Replace with colored springs. Blue goes closer to the side with the giant hole in it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112379&stc=1&d=1329197555

 

Notice the head of this screwdriver is the perfect fit for the spring. Have several screwdrivers on hand, as you never know which will be best. This one trick will make doing this a LOT easier. Use it to press the spring down.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112380&stc=1&d=1329197555

 

Put tab in halfway until it hits the flat side of the screwdriver. The tab is now halfway in. Notice on the left side I'm using my body to hold this metal layer vertical, with a paper towel barrier. The compressed spring tension can unload by pushing this BV layer forcefully to one side or the other. So body to keep it vertical, one hand to guide screwdriver, other hand to put in tab.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112381&stc=1&d=1329197555

 

New put a skinny screwdriver tip to the side of the tab to lower the tab, thus allowing you to push the tab in the rest of the way.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112382&stc=1&d=1329197555

 

The blue spring has a bigger diameter than the yellow spring, so using a wider screwdriver. Perfect match. Again steadying VB layer with chest pressure while compressing spring and sliding in tab.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112383&stc=1&d=1329197555

 

Notice screwdriver flat side facing tab, so tab can slide in halfway.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112384&stc=1&d=1329197555

 

The use a skinny screwdriver to push the spring down, again allowing the tab to slide in the rest of the way.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112385&stc=1&d=1329197555

 

Dog sleeps 21 hours a day. Odd since it's not a cat.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112386&stc=1&d=1329197555

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Now we need to swap out a valve on the other side of this bottom layer. It is dead center along the side. See pic for detail. This tab pops out easier because the whole point of this valve is to not be very spring loaded so it can be moved around easily via clutch pack solenoid pressure.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112402&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Pull tab.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112403&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Get out the angle pic tool.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112404&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Pop out the cylindrical plug. It does not like to come out. Be delicate. Forcing pressure on it can deform it and cause it to get more stuck. Sometimes it's easier than other times.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112405&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Plug comes out, then this soft spring. Now use the hook tool to work the valve out of the bore. Aim for the grooves. You can use a thin screwdriver on the end to help walk it out. Eventually you get it far enough out to grab the thin nose with a plyers, and pull it out the rest of the way.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112406&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Replaced with TransGo valve. Reuse spring and plug, going back in the bore in this order. Should slide right in.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112407&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Sliding in.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112408&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Gently walk the bore in with end pressure and lever pressure, being gentle with both. Don't push the plug too far in, just far enough to slip the tab in.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112409&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Put tab back in.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112410&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Push plug back against tab so tab is held in place and there is no slack.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112411&stc=1&d=1329199117

 

Congrats, bottom layer is modified. Now time for the middle layer.

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
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Middle layer now.

The yellow screwdriver points to the valve closer to the big hole at one end of the valve body. This is the 'larger valve'.

The red screwdriver points to the 'smaller valve'.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112414&stc=1&d=1329200532

 

Closer look. Remove both tabs. This is mostly repeat to the first valve we replaced.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112415&stc=1&d=1329200532

 

Work the plugs out, then pull out the springs. The spring from the 'smaller valve' will not be put back in. It shouldn't make much of any difference. But that's what TransGo wants.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112416&stc=1&d=1329200532

 

Work the valve out.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112417&stc=1&d=1329200532

 

Other valve.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112418&stc=1&d=1329200532

 

You can barely tell, but the closer valve has a smaller diameter. You can also see the smaller diameter spring has thinner wire and is thus softer.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112419&stc=1&d=1329200532

 

Put in TransGo valve. You will be able to tell visually which one is the odd small one, if you mix them up.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112420&stc=1&d=1329200532

 

I put the bigger valve's spring back in, but not the smaller valve's spring. Finish with plug, then tab, then make sure plug is pushing up against the tab so the tab is not able to wiggle free and fall out at a later step.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112421&stc=1&d=1329200532

 

Next step is the hardest part. But I have a trick to make it a lot easier.

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
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Still on middle level of valve body, flip to the other side and look in the inset nook for this unusually big valve with this T spring retainer (it is the only valve with a T spring retainer instead of the straight ones with a little hook at the end that you have worked with up to this point).

 

Use screwdriver to push out. It will be difficult, this spring is a lot stiffer than what you have worked on up to this point. This is the money valve, as it directly vents the line pressure straight off the pump. Jatco calls it the "Boost Valve", which makes no sense.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112451&stc=1&d=1329262394

 

Eventually you get the damn T spring retainer out of there. I have routinely shot this spring across the room, so be smart and block it instead.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112453&stc=1&d=1329262394

 

Work the valve outward a few millimeters until you can see clearly in the RED circled area what kind of spring holder end you've got. This one is only a millimeter long, so it is the short kind. The other kind (not pictured) is around 4mm long, and thus looks markedly different that this little stub.

The reason this matters is because the short stub necessitates a longer spring. Conversely, the longer stub necessitates a shorter spring. So for this one pictured, we're going to use the longer spring set, which is the white set from TransGo.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112454&stc=1&d=1329262394

 

See how the white set is a little longer.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112455&stc=1&d=1329262394

 

Here is a major tip to save you hours of stress and anger:

Use a spade drill bit to suppress both springs downward. I am stabilizing this VB layer vertically with my chest. Notice the spade bit is perpendicular to the VB layer. That is so you can slide the T retainer tab right up next to the spade bit. Do this exactly and you will save a monster headache. This spring is no joke.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112456&stc=1&d=1329262394

 

So far so good. Next you will remove the spade bit and lever the T to slide it left to be centered over the spring. The spring pressure will make this very difficult. I suppress the edge of the spring with a flat head screwdriver to allow the T to slide to the center better. Then I press the T's end down and push it forward all the way into its seat.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112457&stc=1&d=1329262394

 

Done.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112458&stc=1&d=1329262394

 

 

You're done modifying the VB, next is reassembly.

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
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Grab the bottom layer of the valve body.

 

Grab two longest centering bolts.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112544&stc=1&d=1329349342

 

Longer one here.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112545&stc=1&d=1329349342

 

Shorter one here.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112546&stc=1&d=1329349342

 

I don't show many pictures of it, but I'm cleaning between every reassembly step.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112547&stc=1&d=1329349342

 

Grab this soft beehive spring.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112548&stc=1&d=1329349342

 

Dip in assembly lube so it sticks in its bore.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112549&stc=1&d=1329349342

 

It goes here. There isn't any other obvious place to put it, so you will be able to spot its bore.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112550&stc=1&d=1329349342

 

Now dip the heavier springs (2 of them) in assembly lube.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112551&stc=1&d=1329349342

 

One goes here.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112552&stc=1&d=1329349342

 

Other goes here.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112553&stc=1&d=1329349342

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Grab the three larger check balls.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112554&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

Put one on top of each spring. One...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112555&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

Two...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112556&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

Three.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112557&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

Three zoomed in.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112558&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

Wipe off extra.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112559&stc=1&d=1329350122%27

 

Clean bottom divider plate.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112560&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

Dip one of the 4 small filters into the assembly lube. The idea technique is to swirl the outer edge only.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112561&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

So you get something like this.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112562&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

Put it in the divider plate. See how the ring of lube holds the filter in place.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112563&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

Second filter.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112564&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

All 4 are on.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112565&stc=1&d=1329350122

 

Line up this divider plate with the two guide bolts and lay it on the bottom VB level.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112566&stc=1&d=1329350122

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Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Two posts done so far. Updated 1st post. Haven't even gotten to the part where the valve body is taken apart yet. This will take a while to finish... at least I have all the photos done.
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Anyone can do it if they have some good mechanical wrenching experience and can follow directions precisely. But I understand most people not wanting to take this on. Some people already have enough complication in their lives. I would already be busy every day of the year without the extra work of HexMods.

 

Edit: I guess anything is easy once you have experience doing it. People keep telling me that internal transmission work is more of an undertaking than rebuilding engines. I personally feel that building engines is actually a bigger undertaking, but that may be because I've never done any internal engine work yet.

Edited by ClimberD@HexMods
[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Wow. Even more impressed that youve figured out how to modify it! Any thoughts about releasing your own kit?

 

From what I can gauge right now, I won't release DIY kits like TransGo until:

a) Every kit except the highest race version(s) produces well-mannered behavior in every aspect of its operation,

b) I have a fully established range of 5EAT solutions,

c) There is no more room for improvement at least that I can find.

In summary, I want a range of kits that I can stand behind with confidence and say, "These are the best. You aren't going to do any better. No one comes close."

 

The problem is I'm not interested in padding out kits to make them look like they're worth more money. And each revision makes the modifications simpler, the goal being the fewest pieces possible to accomplish the perfect shifting trans for varying power levels. So even if I have $10,000 labor hours invested in a product line (which I will), then will people still want to fork out $XXX for a simple DIY kit, which is basically $10 and the rest in R&D? I guess we'll find out. For now, I'm happy doing what I'm doing.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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HOLY. ISH.

 

How in the hell did I think for a second that I could do this. You sir, preform miracles...and document them.

 

+1 for you.

 

 

^This. Awesome work and an amazing amount of confidence in your product to do something like this and share so freely. Thank you!

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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