How hard to swap 6mt into h6 3.0?

My 3rd engine died so I’m done with turbos.

 

Thinking about getting a 3.0 and swapping my 6mt over. I have no idea if it’s possible or if it’s a headache.

 

Thoughts?

Or you could stop building your turbo cars up to 400WHP.

Any relevant answers?

It's definitely possible. The Australian spec b came with 3.0 and a 6 speed. Not too sure how difficult it will be though.

 

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Pretty sure there are some slightly different gear ratios between the 6MT in the Legacy 3.0R and the WRX STi.

 

Not done it myself, prefer to just buy the right car to start with these days, cannot be bothered wasting time swapping transmissions or engines.

 

The manuals are selling for way more than the Autos over here because they are so rare out of Japan.

Sorry to hear about your 3rd engine. That's rough. What caused it?

 

- Look at a couple of the auto to manual threads here. I think it's always a pretty big hassle and I have no idea what is all involved. There is one specific user who was successful.

 

That being said - I think building a turbo Subie to 300 ish with a built engine is probably the easier / safer / cheaper method than a 3.0 with a 6mt.

Any relevant answers?

 

My understanding is that you already have 6mt, drive shaft and rear diff installed. In this case your drive train stays with no changes.

 

H6 needs different engine harness and ecu from H6 6MT BL. Preferably BP. I believe engine support cross member is different from H4, but I would expect that H6 specific cross member from any Usdm H6 5EAT Outback or legacy will do.

 

From FSM I also believe the AC compressor is different, as well as fuel pump, potentially with fuel pump control module. Same may be for fuel lines and pressure regulators under the hood. This gets you to having H6 under the hood and having wires and fuel lines connected. Also, almost forgot, you will need 6Mt flywheel. Assuming you already have 6MT clutch and shift gear.

 

Then you would be down to figuring out differences between, and then mating JDM H6 6MT ecu and harness with your existing Usdm harnesses. I do not know scope and complexity of that work-could be none, or stopping project on track.

 

It definetily doable, question is how much downtime you can afford. Two biggest issues I would expect to be figuring out harness compatibility and figuring out and finding miriad little things under the hood to make H6run.

My understanding is that you already have 6mt, drive shaft and rear diff installed. In this case your drive train stays with no changes.

 

H6 needs different engine harness and ecu from H6 6MT BL. Preferably BP. I believe engine support cross member is different from H4, but I would expect that H6 specific cross member from any Usdm H6 5EAT Outback or legacy will do.

 

From FSM I also believe the AC compressor is different, as well as fuel pump, potentially with fuel pump control module. Same may be for fuel lines and pressure regulators under the hood. This gets you to having H6 under the hood and having wires and fuel lines connected. Also, almost forgot, you will need 6Mt flywheel. Assuming you already have 6MT clutch and shift gear.

 

Then you would be down to figuring out differences between, and then mating JDM H6 6MT ecu and harness with your existing Usdm harnesses. I do not know scope and complexity of that work-could be none, or stopping project on track.

 

It definetily doable, question is how much downtime you can afford. Two biggest issues I would expect to be figuring out harness compatibility and figuring out and finding miriad little things under the hood to make H6run.

 

No, I’m talking the other way around. Putting a 6mt into a h6 outback. I’m gonna part out the xt and junk the shell, just thinking of putting the 6mt into the h6 car.

I have to agree with the 300ish whp thing.

 

I think you know my ej257 has over 110,000 trouble free miles on it.

 

Car will turn 265,000 miles on the way back to CT after skiing tomorrow.

The trans tunnel is slightly different so a butchered semi custom subframe is needed. Wiring and making the ECU happy will by far be the worst part of it.

I JDM H6 6MT wiring harness with ECU can be bought from eBay, usually from some used jdm parts importers.

 

It would still need to be mated to recepient car wiring but at least it addresses engine control and ecu is programmed for 6MT.

 

It would be a project, no doubts.

The question again is how much down time you can tolerate. Also needs to be budgeted realistically. 6MT conversion sets are typically in mid $4K range. Harness with ecu ran me around $450 shipped. So after $5K and two weeks for shipping you can be looking at two pallets with all the bolt on parts. Then the fun of unknown begins.

 

I would not engage in this for a dd. But if you have free money and a garage space to keep the project car there, why not...

Check MCM (Mighty Car Mods) channel on YouTube. One of the projects they did was to install 6MT and 3.6 H6 from Tribeca into shell of automatic Legacy. They also turbo charged the H6. Lots of custom fabrication for turbo plumbing, and because of the addition of the turbo they ran some racing ecu AFAIK. But they had it done.

Every time I see that someone talks about a H6 and boosting it I think of Tomcat and his Rotrex charged 3.6 H6. (Search the forum for that)

My 3rd engine died so I’m done with turbos.

 

Thinking about getting a 3.0 and swapping my 6mt over. I have no idea if it’s possible or if it’s a headache.

 

Thoughts?

 

You can do almost anything to a vehicle with enough:

 

-Time.

-Money.

-Knowledge.

-Skill.

 

How much do you have? If you're hoping for a plug and play/minor mods only project, this would not be it.

You can do almost anything to a vehicle with enough:

 

-Time.

-Money.

-Knowledge.

-Skill.

 

How much do you have? If you're hoping for a plug and play/minor mods only project, this would not be it.

 

 

This is the tetrahedron of balance between those four. If you lack knowledge and skill it takes a lot of time and money. If you have a lot of skill and knowledge you can save a bunch of money, especially if you can take your time.

I remember someone doing a 6mt swap into a 3rd gen H6 - the mechanical bits basically bolted on (you're just mating the back end of the drivetrain to the engine, so keep the crossmember, transmount, and other things connected to the trans, also keep the pedal box and you'll need to drill into the firewall to mount the clutch master cylinder and connect it to your pedal box).

 

The biggest hurdle they faced AFAIK was the wiring - your USDM H6 is not exactly like a JDM H6, you may need to go to an aftermarket ECU like a Haltec w/ the stock ECU bypassed and only connected to the body module to make sure everything works together with minimal decline in daily driveability.

I remember someone doing a 6mt swap into a 3rd gen H6 - the mechanical bits basically bolted on (you're just mating the back end of the drivetrain to the engine, so keep the crossmember, transmount, and other things connected to the trans, also keep the pedal box and you'll need to drill into the firewall to mount the clutch master cylinder and connect it to your pedal box).

 

The biggest hurdle they faced AFAIK was the wiring - your USDM H6 is not exactly like a JDM H6, you may need to go to an aftermarket ECU like a Haltec w/ the stock ECU bypassed and only connected to the body module to make sure everything works together with minimal decline in daily driveability.

 

I think I’m gonna get a v70r instead.

I think I’m gonna get a v70r instead.

 

I guess this was a good discussion but I'm glad you figured out it was not worth the effort.

 

Hey have you seen the LS swap into the Volvo wagons ?

 

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=JW4ZXNyHIMip_Qa5u4rwAw&q=LS+swap+into+a+Volvo&btnK=Google+Search&oq=LS+swap+into+a+Volvo&gs_l=psy-ab.3.4.0i22i30l5.7160.14230..23891...0.0..0.113.1925.20j4....2..0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0j0i131.vo7ngrH-0ow

I guess this was a good discussion but I'm glad you figured out it was not worth the effort.

 

Hey have you seen the LS swap into the Volvo wagons ?

 

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=JW4ZXNyHIMip_Qa5u4rwAw&q=LS+swap+into+a+Volvo&btnK=Google+Search&oq=LS+swap+into+a+Volvo&gs_l=psy-ab.3.4.0i22i30l5.7160.14230..23891...0.0..0.113.1925.20j4....2..0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0j0i131.vo7ngrH-0ow

 

I have, but I am gonna stay away from mods for a while. Thats what I love about the v70r. Its like stage 2 lgt out of the box. And coming from some who has only driven manuals for years, the 6spd auto on it is pretty nice for my daily and dad duties.

I think you need to take a little time and cool down before you make a decision. Volvo are great cars but they are not known for reliability either. any repair bill past warranty period brings tears to owner's eyes.

I think you need to take a little time and cool down before you make a decision. Volvo are great cars but they are not known for reliability either. any repair bill past warranty period brings tears to owner's eyes.

 

The v70r is in amazing condition with records and a medicated-for-ocd previous owner (Im not kidding). I can purchase an extended warranty through my credit union that will cover the next 60k miles. I did that for the outback when I bought it and nothing happened, I was worried about engine and turbo failure because of research I did before buying the outback. The research I've done suggests that transmission and suspension issues are the main problems, not turbo and engine. The transmission on the car I am buying is the version that doesn't have the issues of the manual and 5spd auto, and the suspension is in perfect working order.

 

Let me put it this way. YNANSB only exists in the subaru world for a reason. Other cars may have engines that fail, but not on the level that they have an acronym for it. What other cars out there come with the warning that you will probably put a new engine in at some point. Thats all we sing around here. Thats not what they are singing on the volvo forums.

Volvos are pretty reliable in my experience. We had an old '77 wagon with 170k miles on it, then it kept running for 25 years after that even though the odometer had stopped working. That car had the loudest horn I've ever heard. We did have one issue with it where the left turn signal would shut the engine off only if you were going over 50mph. As far as I know it's still going (driver uses hand signals in lieu of the turn signals).

Sorry to hear about your 3rd engine. That's rough. What caused it?

 

- Look at a couple of the auto to manual threads here. I think it's always a pretty big hassle and I have no idea what is all involved. There is one specific user who was successful.

 

That being said - I think building a turbo Subie to 300 ish with a built engine is probably the easier / safer / cheaper method than a 3.0 with a 6mt.

 

 

 

 

So, what failed this time?

So, what failed this time?

 

Unwatched catch can flooded the engine with oil.