Oil pan leak on 97 legacy gt

I recently bought a used 97 legacy gt sedan, and it needs some work before it's back on the road. I changed the oil today, and found that there is what looks like a pinhole leak on the oil pan. First of all, should I replace the pan, or just repair the hole? The pan is a bit rusty, but I don't think the hole was caused by rust. I have a mig welder, but welding on an oil pan doesn't seem safe.

 

Second of all, this car was sitting unused for a while before I bought it. I had to drive it about 3 miles to get it to my house. Neither the oil warning light or the check engine light were lit. Should I be concerned that the engine might be damaged from low oil?

 

Also, how involved would an oil pan replacement be, considering the only work i've done on cars is oil changes, brake jobs, and sway bar links? The oil pan bolts also look a bit rusted. Or if I just went to a shop, what would the average cost be for an oil pan on a 97 gt?

The pan rusting through and causing a leak is pretty common, you can try putting JB weld on it but it's only a matter of time before it gets worse. I'd just replace it to save yourself in the future. The pans are not easy to unbolt from the motor when the motor is installed on the car though. You will need a flexible attachment to get the socket up between the motor and crossmember, its just a tricky job but pretty easy in concept.

The pan rusting through and causing a leak is pretty common, you can try putting JB weld on it but it's only a matter of time before it gets worse. I'd just replace it to save yourself in the future. The pans are not easy to unbolt from the motor when the motor is installed on the car though. You will need a flexible attachment to get the socket up between the motor and crossmember, its just a tricky job but pretty easy in concept.

 

Thanks. Should I be concerned about it being run on low oil?

Thanks. Should I be concerned about it being run on low oil?

 

It depends how bad it's leaking and where the leak is, if the leak is towards the bottom and it's an oz or so a day, hell yes replace it asap. If it's a drop or two a day and its in the middle to the top of the oil pan, then you can put it off. A buddy bought an outback from auction with the same leak and it was pretty minor but on the way to getting it fixed, it punched out a quarter sized hole and dumped most the oil, the inside of the pan was much more rusted than the outside oddly enough.

It's in the middle of the pan, and it drips once every 20 seconds or so. Im gonna deal with it before I drive it, but should I be concerned that I drove it for 3 miles? I dont know if this issue existed before I worked on it today.

 

I've been doing some research, it looks like it's going to be really difficult to get all the bolts off without lifting the engine. How much money do you think it would be to get it done? I don't have the skill or equipment to move the engine.

It's in the middle of the pan, and it drips once every 20 seconds or so. Im gonna deal with it before I drive it, but should I be concerned that I drove it for 3 miles? I dont know if this issue existed before I worked on it today.

 

I've been doing some research, it looks like it's going to be really difficult to get all the bolts off without lifting the engine. How much money do you think it would be to get it done? I don't have the skill or equipment to move the engine.

 

Oh yeah that definitely will need to get fixed asap, but in theory any oil below the hole in the pan will stay in there so I doubt it was run without oil, but maybe run low. The only real way to know if it was damaged is if you pull the heads and disassemble the motor to see if it heat scored in the bearings or anything of the sort. If I were you, I'd replace the pan, do a good engine flush with some cheap oil and seafoam and then just put the possible issues out of mind.

Thank you. I've heard its a real PITA to take off the pan though.

Thank you. I've heard its a real PITA to take off the pan though.

 

It is, I tricked myself into thinking it was a good idea to replace the gasket before it even started leaking as a preventative thing and I had to use a whole assortment of random sockets and extensions, you'll need an extra shallow 10mm/12mm I don't remember but I took my socket to a grinding wheel to make it smaller and then I used a flexible 6in extension with a swivel extension on a small impact. Also get the car as high up in the air as possible.

When you first get in and put the key to run but haven't turned to start yet, do the check engine and oil lights light? If so then I wouldn't worry about your 3 miles. If they don't work, then you can't tell for sure if it had low oil pressure during the drive. I did once start mine with NO oil in it and run it that way for about 90 seconds before the popping sound of my head... That was nearly 100,000 miles ago, and the engine is so solid it freaks me out a little.

 

I once took out my engine with a 7 foot tall sawhorse looking thing I build out of a 2x6 across and 2x4 legs with some rope and pulleys. Wasn't the best way, but in a dirt lot an engine crane can be a pain even if I had one at the time.

 

But you wouldn't have to take the engine out to do the pan. You could maybe undo the two engine mounts underneath and the dogbone mount on top at the bellhousing and just lift it an inch or so to get clearance to work. If you do that you have to be ABSOLUTELY SURE the engine CAN NOT come down or you will lose a finger or something similar when it slips. Keep your hands out of there even if you are sure it can't come down. I would do this with a wood block and a floor jack to push up the trans at its front end by 1.5 inches. That shouldn't flex anything enough to hurt. Maybe undo the exhaust header to heads to help with movement, but if you do that you have to put in new gaskets there. A leak there can let air into the exhaust and if it does the computer will think you are way lean and dump gas in. No fun.

Thanks. I'm not sure if I want to get this done myself or if I want to take it in. In the meantime, I cleaned the heck out of the oil pan with brake cleaner and added a coat of jb weld. once that dries ill probably add another coat before silicone sealant. That should make it driveable for a while so I can find time/money to replace the pan.

 

The oil light is functional, so I think the 3 miles were okay.

Thanks. I'm not sure if I want to get this done myself or if I want to take it in. In the meantime, I cleaned the heck out of the oil pan with brake cleaner and added a coat of jb weld. once that dries ill probably add another coat before silicone sealant. That should make it driveable for a while so I can find time/money to replace the pan.

 

The oil light is functional, so I think the 3 miles were okay.

 

Just for giggles I looked at replacement pans on rock auto and they are about $35 and I found a video on how to do it yourself. He kind of skips over the unbolting and actual replacement of the pan but it's a good little how to

Sweet, thanks. Hopefully when it starts leaking again later on I'll be motivated enough to do it myself.

Sweet, thanks. Hopefully when it starts leaking again later on I'll be motivated enough to do it myself.

 

JB weld should buy you some time, just keep an eye on the oil level and check it everytime you have a chance.

JB weld should buy you some time, just keep an eye on the oil level and check it everytime you have a chance.

 

this is the right advice.

 

patch it and drive it.

drain the oil, sand the pan to clean dry metal, add jbweld.

 

check your oil often, carry a qt. with you.

i used to keep a qt between the battery and head light.

and check the pavement under your parking place often.

you could drive this car for a very long time as long as you keep oil in it.

 

 

you almost have to pull the engine to replace the pan,

so if you are going to do that there may other stuff you want to do at the same time.

 

not that i doubt your diagnosis, not really,

but it does sound like you are fairly new to auto service and repair;

but are you sure it is a pin hole leak?

there are lots of leaks on these cars that end up on the oil pan that are not pan related.

make sure you ''know'' your leak.

Yeah it was definitely a pinhole, the only place the pan was wet was right under this one spot, and when I cleaned it there was a visible hole. I'll keep an eye on it until I can replace the pan. Thanks for the advice.

 

I've been looking at the service records on the car, and it looks like the timing belt hasn't been replaced, and the milage is 101k. Is the engine on the 97gt interference? How much has anyone here paid for a replacement?