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Rusted Rear Brake Lines - Subaru won't honor their recall?


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There are plenty of good lines for little money at the auto parts store.

 

I made up new lines for my 1986 F150 a while back, easy stuff to bend by hand

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Is anyone just running aftermarket brake lines so this is not a problem? I ran them on my 08 and loved them. I just think I am going to order them.

 

I think you're thinking of the aftermarket lines which replace stock rubber lines, I wish the fix were that easy. Unfortunately this problem is farther back in the brake line system.

 

In the image baconbits posted, you can see the problem is back a bit from his braided brake lines, the second document he posted shows bolder colored lines where the rubber lines stop.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dealership-denied-rusted-brake-line-repair-recall-smoking-guni-269642.html

 

Here's some random pictures from my car about 2 years ago. No protective cover where the brake lines secure into the plastic body clips, and maybe a half an inch or so exposed in front of the four way joint connector, which then goes back to the rear left and rear right brakes.

 

I think someone said Subaru charges about $3000 to replace the lines, since I think you have to drop the gas tank and stuff. I think some people have been able to do it themselves without dropping the gas tank, probably because they bend the tubing themselves, and don't use Subaru's pre-bent lines. Wish I were comfortable doing this kind of thing myself. Edit: I know I've posted my pictures before in this thread, or another thread, but I'm bored, and figure why not post again since they might be buried.

lines.thumb.jpg.2973729b75f4f3647cd9525ddabaf70b.jpg

lines2.jpg.6466329242ac2507dfb090eb22272f35.jpg

lines3.thumb.jpg.128aa0367a42d19c8c45cc7ae0f949d4.jpg

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My rear drivers side brake line rusted out a few weeks ago. I checked with SOA and a local dealer. I got the same response, it was taken care of. They couldn't tell me when, which I find to be lame.

There were a few warning signs. First was brakes were a little softer. At a stop, the car would start to creep forward a little. I thought I was just tired and lifted on the pedal, nope. Last was the "brake" light came on and fluid was low. Towed it to the shop, on the lift it was obvious the driver side was leaking out. Checked the passenger side, it looked like a matter of time before it went. Now I'm fixing both sides and the one above the gas tank.

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My rear drivers side brake line rusted out a few weeks ago. I checked with SOA and a local dealer. I got the same response, it was taken care of. They couldn't tell me when, which I find to be lame.

There were a few warning signs. First was brakes were a little softer. At a stop, the car would start to creep forward a little. I thought I was just tired and lifted on the pedal, nope. Last was the "brake" light came on and fluid was low. Towed it to the shop, on the lift it was obvious the driver side was leaking out. Checked the passenger side, it looked like a matter of time before it went. Now I'm fixing both sides and the one above the gas tank.

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My rear drivers side brake line rusted out a few weeks ago. I checked with SOA and a local dealer. I got the same response, it was taken care of. They couldn't tell me when, which I find to be lame.

There were a few warning signs. First was brakes were a little softer. At a stop, the car would start to creep forward a little. I thought I was just tired and lifted on the pedal, nope. Last was the "brake" light came on and fluid was low. Towed it to the shop, on the lift it was obvious the driver side was leaking out. Checked the passenger side, it looked like a matter of time before it went. Now I'm fixing both sides and the one above the gas tank.

 

 

Curious to know how much it's costing for the repairs

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Not bad at all in my opinion.

 

I was looking under my car again last night, and noticed something. In my pictures above, picture #3, that's the hard line going to the right rear brakes. There is another line clipped in above that, which goes over the gas tank, to the left rear brakes. I think it's really just that lower hard line going to the right rear that seems to go bad on people, and rub through where the clip holds it. Too bad subaru doesn't seem to sell that line by itself, because it seems very possible to sneak it up into place without touching the gas tank. A shop, or diy'er with more experience than me could just bend some nicopp into the correct shape, and replace that short piece of hard line.

 

Here's a picture that shows the short piece that I'm talking about, top right.

https://parts.subaru.com/images/uploads/SimplePart%20-%20Subaru/fullsize/a_20170906_1118500597.png

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2009_Legacy-25L-5MT-4WD-Sedan/BRAKE-PIPE-ASSEMBLY-REAR/49235570/26520AG02A.html

 

Of course for some people, everything is rusted so bad that it just makes more sense to replace everything.

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I got 2 quotes.

$450-500 it will work, but may not be pretty.

 

$650-700 Drop the gas tank and route over. Probably the way it was supposed to be.

 

Decent prices. You can route the line along the rear top of the tank without dropping it, and secure to one of the evap lines running back there. It's not the OEM location, but at least you don't end up with a brake line hanging out low.

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Decent prices. You can route the line along the rear top of the tank without dropping it, and secure to one of the evap lines running back there. It's not the OEM location, but at least you don't end up with a brake line hanging out low.

 

Thanks for confirming the price isn't outrageous. Once I looked under the car and saw the paths of the lines, I figured it was going to take some shop time to fix it. I'm battling alternative side parking here, so I'm not comfortable working on the brakes in the street.

 

I've read many times on the forum to have a separate bank account for these cars, so I've been preparing mentally for the costs. The car only has 39k on it, so I'm keeping it for a while.

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Or you could do as I and others did and route inside the car under the back seat. I ran mine under the carpet at the bottom of the front of the seat. The NiCopp and fittings cost less than $50.

 

What diameter NiCopp line is needed for this and do you use a normal flaring tool for the double flare ends? I need to pick up some of this tubing since I have four of these vehicles that will need it eventually.

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What diameter NiCopp line is needed for this and do you use a normal flaring tool for the double flare ends? I need to pick up some of this tubing since I have four of these vehicles that will need it eventually.

 

 

 

It’s 3/16” tube and m10x1.0 fittings. I used a regular old autoparts store type double flaring tool that I’ve had laying around forever. Worked perfectly. It left a slight imprint from clamping on the tubing that wouldn’t allow the fitting to slide up to the flare but a couple of light swipes with a file and it was good.

 

226b807252fd5e9d939d6517909ef64e.jpg

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It’s 3/16” tube and m10x1.0 fittings. I used a regular old autoparts store type double flaring tool that I’ve had laying around forever. Worked perfectly. It left a slight imprint from clamping on the tubing that wouldn’t allow the fitting to slide up to the flare but a couple of light swipes with a file and it was good.

 

Cool. That looks like the same kit I have. I don't think I've used it since ~2005 so the hardest part might be finding where my flaring tool is located here. Thanks.

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The imprints are normal. I use one of these and flip the block pieces 180° then reclamp the line or lightly file. Something like this may be too much for someone doing the job once but nothing compares to using a pneumatic flaring tool.

 

https://www.usnotion.com/transmission-72485-prc-sets-silver-blue-cooling-line-die-adapter-cutter---3-8-1-2-mastercool-plus-universal-tube-tool-flaring-hydraulic

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  • 2 weeks later...
I personally dealt with this on my 06 LGT. I work at a Subaru dealership and had the line rot out at the junction in the right rear. Subaru won’t cover it because the recall repair was done and at within 12 months of the repair being done nothing was reported the recall was then closed. I went and got some bulk brake line and just did it myself. Total cost was $40. It’s a lot easier and cheaper than paying for Subaru lines. If you ask your local dealership to run a VIN inquiry they can show you when the cut off was on the recall coverage. Subaru is very very very giving like Oprah giving. As long as you service the car at a Subaru dealership regularly and have it inspected there they will help on things. You could also ask the service manager if they would be able to possibly do a 1 time goodwill but that is completely the sole discretion of the dealership. If your car has less than 100k they can consider a 1 time goodwill. It is based on verifiable Subaru service history and customer loyalty too. If you have questions let me know
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  • 4 weeks later...
Plainly you guys have never owned an Audi. How about getting 30K on an engine having it seize, then trying to tell you its not covered, all the while there are numerous campaigns for bad high pressure fuel pumps eating the camshaft, cam seizing due to incorrect machining, oil galleys plugged with machining debris from day one, bad engine temp sensors, control arm bushings and ball joints that go bad before 30 K,. A HVAC tray design that traps water, and floods the passenger compartment ruining $2500 worth of trans abs, and convenience modules. I owned and repaired Audi's for over 20 years, Subaru ain't the only ones dodging and weaving.
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Plainly you guys have never owned an Audi. How about getting 30K on an engine having it seize, then trying to tell you its not covered, all the while there are numerous campaigns for bad high pressure fuel pumps eating the camshaft, cam seizing due to incorrect machining, oil galleys plugged with machining debris from day one, bad engine temp sensors, control arm bushings and ball joints that go bad before 30 K,. A HVAC tray design that traps water, and floods the passenger compartment ruining $2500 worth of trans abs, and convenience modules. I owned and repaired Audi's for over 20 years, Subaru ain't the only ones dodging and weaving.

 

Even the R8 V10 +? :cool:, I was looking at them last year.

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NO VAG product from 2005 through 2015. Supposedly all the timing chain, chain tensioner, HPDI fuel pump and cam shaft issues issues on all the engines are fixed after 2015. No answer for the carboning of all engines and the occasional catastrophic engine failures caused by it, other than to take it in to be, walnut shelled every now and then. After 2015's I have no info as they are still under warranty and haven't had any come through the shop yet.
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