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Nameless Downpipe: Official 5th Gen GT Install Thread


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Just a thing to consider: the OEM BPV is basically wide open at just 8 psi of boost. That's Subaru's factory boost control!

 

Any aftermarket one substantially reduces the necessary WGDC because it isn't bleeding boost back to the intake. It's an important variable.

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Nameless thank you for gathering all the facts I appreciate the effort

I forgot to add I did have a turbosmart kompact on during my time cause I heard the stock one leaks,

But also after my clamps came off during my tune we took the car off the dyno n on a lift to make sure everything was bolted up correctly n double check my ebcs

And nvr touched it since, went back on the dyno and same problem then only switched the dp and midpipe n was able to tune with no spikes ,

So I hope Jarred can help you with the logs

And if u also need the logs from the tune with the invidia pls email Anthony Barry from drunkmann tuning at his website

I had to use a different tuner cause jarred only flys out to Hawaii a couple times a year n needed to fix the problem fast and Anthony was next available reputable tuner,.

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Just a thing to consider: the OEM BPV is basically wide open at just 8 psi of boost. That's Subaru's factory boost control!

 

Any aftermarket one substantially reduces the necessary WGDC because it isn't bleeding boost back to the intake. It's an important variable.

I am running the stock bpv and if you look at it, it also has a mac valve built in. My understanding is the bpv uses variable pressure to either help it open or keep it closed according to what the tuner changes on the tables.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Edited by FLlegacy
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Removed DP myself and tapped dump tube with hammer to make clearance with wastegate flapper. Overboost solved for the time being.

 

I misspoke here. It would still overboost with my TBE on the temp map. Temps low 40s. Attached is the log that illustrates this (named 'zero wgdc').

 

Eckseleven do you have any logs from when you were overboosting, those would be nice to see what your WGDC was set at to compare to mine.

 

Sure can. Here they are. One named 'TA overboost' was the first incident with the new tune when temps dipped (but still quite hot - 80 degrees). The one named 'TA almost overboost' was the second incident after the tune was revised. Here I let off the throttle when I saw 21 psi.

 

For these TA tunes, my configuration is: Nameless DP, Grimmspeed DP adapter, stock mid, AVO axle back, Cobb SF, Rx IC, and Turbosmart Kompact BPV.

TA almost overboost.csv

TA Overboost.csv

zero wgdc.csv

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I am running the stock bpv and if you look at it, it also has a mac valve built in. My understanding is the bpv uses variable pressure to either help it open or keep it closed according to what the tuner changes on the tables.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I bench tested it, and plain and simple it's pissing boost like mad over 8 psi. No tuner can control the BPV.

 

That means that a tuner has to set dramatically higher WGDC to maintain boost, but it also means that over boosting would be much easier to control. I don't know what the differences are, number-wise, in WGDC.

 

It might be worth trying, for those with over boost issues...going back to stock bpv. Not that making your turbo have to work harder is a good solution, but it could be a factor differentiating the folks with problems vs without.

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I bench tested it, and plain and simple it's pissing boost like mad over 8 psi. No tuner can control the BPV.

 

That means that a tuner has to set dramatically higher WGDC to maintain boost, but it also means that over boosting would be much easier to control. I don't know what the differences are, number-wise, in WGDC.

 

It might be worth trying, for those with over boost issues...going back to stock bpv. Not that making your turbo have to work harder is a good solution, but it could be a factor differentiating the folks with problems vs without.

 

There's actually something related to this that I was wondering for the last several days. Ryan's car was tuned, as far as I know, with just the Nameless TBE for power and an open sourced tune. Afterwards, he upgraded the stock BPV to a Nameless unit for the 2015 WRX. If he hasn't run a log since then, do we know if Ryan's car is or is not overboosting now?

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ApexoftheVortex Had no issues with boost creep. Then sounds like with any fast car you got used to the power and wanted more as do we all! Got a different tune from a totally different tuner then had boost creep issues. Now the finger is pointed at the DP when before on a different tune it was a non issue?

 

That's not at all what I said

 

The car was also tuned by a local shop in my area called Moore Automotive (who installed everything correctly) first before I went to TA, but would overboost in 4th gear which is why I consulted TA in the first place.

So here is the whole story.

The first tune was done in November of last year shortly after the pipes were shipped out which cost me 500$ which is fine. It was boosting to about 24 psi and throwing the MAP sensor CEL so of course I went back to Moore and let them know. They said I'd need a 3-port EBCS and a retune which cost about 350$ not as fine but what choice did I have at this point? After that still exactly the same and boosting around 24psi throwing CEL. So after two failed tunes at Moore I wasn't exactly too keen on going back and paying them more money for another retune or whatever, especially after paying you all 750$ for the downpipe and the rest I paid Moore for the first tunes. So now broke and out of options I figured since it was Winter I would just go easy on the car and deal with it in the spring. When Spring rolled around I contacted TA. After Mike advised me to just swap the downpipe I got my hands on a catless TurboXS downpipe which I've been running for a few months now and over boost has not been an issue at all. All that being said are you guys really surprised that people are nervous to try installing this on their cars? And now in order to get the pipe to work we have to modify our turbos? Nobody has over 1000$ in their pocket to do your R&D for you.

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I bench tested it, and plain and simple it's pissing boost like mad over 8 psi. No tuner can control the BPV.

 

That means that a tuner has to set dramatically higher WGDC to maintain boost, but it also means that over boosting would be much easier to control. I don't know what the differences are, number-wise, in WGDC.

 

It might be worth trying, for those with over boost issues...going back to stock bpv. Not that making your turbo have to work harder is a good solution, but it could be a factor differentiating the folks with problems vs without.

 

How do you bench test a BPV without a functioning reference line?

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So, gents after reading Eckseleven post and checking his logs, Monday I will unbolt my axles backs and see what the car does on the cobb ots stage 2 tune, mind you I have run it before with axlebacks on and couldn't get past 14-15 psi.

 

That should be similar to a 3" catback or should I just unbolt one first? I assume this is going to be loud AF when I get on it.

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So, gents after reading Eckseleven post and checking his logs, Monday I will unbolt my axles backs and see what the car does on the cobb ots stage 2 tune, mind you I have run it before with axlebacks on and couldn't get past 14-15 psi.

 

That should be similar to a 3" catback or should I just unbolt one first? I assume this is going to be loud AF when I get on it.

 

It will be loud AF and not a pleasant tone. I did that for giggles when I was putting on my Q300, I just drove around the block.

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It will be loud AF and not a pleasant tone. I did that for giggles when I was putting on my Q300, I just drove around the block.

I won't stand out here, lol. This is the deep south, hardly anyone has mufflers.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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Since bypass valves work on relative differences in pressure, not absolute, you could put 500 psi on the dump side and 508 on the pressure and reference ports and get the same results. Assuming the body of the thing could hold up to that kind of pressure, at least.
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That's the thing is we don't know at this time if my car is over boosting or not. Whenever we do get to the dyno I will bring my stock bpv with me and we can test both setups if need be. I have never had the cel lights come on in a WOT scenario in 2,3,4 gear. Only when my wife wanted to race someone in 5th did the light come on. Trust me when I say I am just as interested in the results of the upcoming dyno runs as you guys are!
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So you checked spring pressure only.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

False. Putting 1 psi of vacuum on the dump side is the same as putting 1 psi of boost on BOTH the signal and charge ports.

 

I'm not going to hijack this thread though, so if you want to discuss it more maybe PM me or start a new thread.

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False. Putting 1 psi of vacuum on the dump side is the same as putting 1 psi of boost on BOTH the signal and charge ports.

 

I'm not going to hijack this thread though, so if you want to discuss it more maybe PM me or start a new thread.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150687

 

I'll just leave that here in case anyone wants a good read on bpv bov leaking issues.

 

And I will add a leaking is not necessarily costing you power.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150687

 

I'll just leave that here in case anyone wants a good read on bpv bov leaking issues.

 

And I will add a leaking is not necessarily costing you power.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

Power loss or not, it takes higher WGDC to raise charge pressures to the same level with a wide open BPV. Therefore, with the OEM BPV, which is wide open over 8psi boost, the nameless DP would be less likely to cause boost creep.

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Power loss or not, it takes higher WGDC to raise charge pressures to the same level with a wide open BPV. Therefore, with the OEM BPV, which is wide open over 8psi boost, the nameless DP would be less likely to cause boost creep.

 

You do realize the reference line on the BPV is connected to the manifold side of the throttle body and the differential between the charge pipe and intake manifold would have to be greater than 8 psi to force the BPV open. Which in our cars would mean the tuner purposely closed the throttle to induce pressure bleed off by the bpv.

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You do realize the reference line on the BPV is connected to the manifold side of the throttle body.

 

Of course.

 

and the differential between the charge pipe and intake manifold would have to be greater than 8 psi to force the BPV open.

 

.

 

Irrelevant. At WOT that's zero...ish. But the OEM one is designed to open at 8 psi and bleed boost back into the intake post-maf, pre-compressor. That's 8 psi on both sides. Not a difference. This is why everyone buys aftermarket units...to stop that counterproductive, high-rpm power-robbing behavior because their compressors run out of breathe.

 

Logan came to a similar conclusion when testing his and tuning his own car. He posted about it somewhere.

 

Listen, I am just trying to point out the fact that our OEM BPVs don't hold boost at all at even stage 1 levels and would be an important factor to eliminate from testing while at the nameless facility diagnosing this dumpster fire of a situation. If it turns out to not matter, then great. But I'm guessing it matters a lot.

 

In my mind, the testing needs to be performed with an aftermarket BPV that holds boost like GFB, Nameless, or any of the other quality units out there.

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This is what I am picturing the valve doing, which is not what you are saying. Saying the valve opens at 8 psi makes no sense, unless you unplug the reference line.

 

http://perrinperformance.com/files/product_assets/PSP-TAC-615/oem_bov_diagramx1000.jpg

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