Stewdogg's 2010 GT

The gasket for charge pipe > turbo outlet is the same size as the VF52, I know that for sure.

 

I might have something at home that works, let me verify tonight. (It's lucky that I have a 20G VF54 sitting in my closet to test it on)

 

Thanks! Any help would be much appreciated! It will be the last part of the puzzle to get together. I'm excited to get it started.

 

I got my intake manafold put back together tonight, along with the ID1050X injectors.

 

I did get my turbo back from BNR yesterday and it looks great!

Here are some pics of the sweet little boost machine.

OK so the flange that I have doesn't quite work. The bolt holes are too far apart by a little. You might be able to slot them and get it to work, but it isn't perfect.

I bought one of these ages ago and ended up not using it. I'd send ot to you for just shipping, but I'm really thinking its 50/50 that you could use it. The gasket is nice.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inlet-1-75-Compressor-Adapter-Flange-Fit-Garrett-GT28-GT28R-GT2560R-GT28RS/223119351063?hash=item33f2f31d17:g:KIkAAOSwrR5bg7sg

OK so the flange that I have doesn't quite work. The bolt holes are too far apart by a little. You might be able to slot them and get it to work, but it isn't perfect.

I bought one of these ages ago and ended up not using it. I'd send ot to you for just shipping, but I'm really thinking its 50/50 that you could use it. The gasket is nice.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inlet-1-75-Compressor-Adapter-Flange-Fit-Garrett-GT28-GT28R-GT2560R-GT28RS/223119351063?hash=item33f2f31d17:g:KIkAAOSwrR5bg7sg

 

Thanks for looking into it for me! Where does the gasket on the flange line up with the flange on the turbo?

 

It's going to be tough to find the perfect flange for this setup. Maybe I'll get lucky and the Frankensteined stock charge pipe will work fine under boost.

 

I did get a little work done on the engine this weekend. I didn't realize till opening the box, that Napa gave me a SOHC head gasket seal kit and not a DOHC head gasket kit. They are the intelligent parts guys in town that I have very good luck with at work, bummer it had to happen on this build. You just can't go anywhere to buy parts for this car. Everything is two days out at least, no matter what I try to order.

 

I also ran into another great idea from the last "mechanic". The inside of the cavity that the oil cooler mounts to was all smashed up and jacked when I took out the cooler from the old block. There are some gusset supports that were busted and it looked like he drilled the inner part out and tapped more threads, so he could use (what I assume is) a NA Legacy oil cooler mount. That mount is longer than the stock mount and therefore won't fit in my new block. When the threads bottom out there's still and inch or so till the cooler gets to the new block. I'm headed to the dealer today to see if I can match it up and verify the new one fits. I'll get some pics when I pull the block apart and find my issue that killed the block.

 

I also had a bunch of metal in the old engine. There are some little filters in the oil control valve blocks mounted on the bottom of the heads, I put a pic below. The machine shop tried to pull them to clean them and put a hole in one. He said they are too clogged to clean. I can't seem to find them anywhere online/dealer separate from the block. The oil control block is $100 and I need one on each side. If I could just find the little plastic/mesh filter, I'm sure it would only be a couple bucks...

 

Here's a pic of the heads going back on, the oil control valve filters and the block, at least starting to get a little longer.

Thanks! Any help would be much appreciated! It will be the last part of the puzzle to get together. I'm excited to get it started.

 

I got my intake manafold put back together tonight, along with the ID1050X injectors.

 

I did get my turbo back from BNR yesterday and it looks great!

Here are some pics of the sweet little boost machine.

 

I got my 16g back from BNR today. Looks like he did not port my waste gate, and just a "heads up," it doesn't look like he ported yours either as I can see the casting impressions where there should be none.

The gasket on the flange lines up in the mid part of the turbo flange. And the gasket has a little ring etched in to the flange that it sits in. It really would be a nice flange if only the bolt hole spacing was better. The outlet is 1-3/4" which is what the turbo outlet is.

I got my 16g back from BNR today. Looks like he did not port my waste gate, and just a "heads up," it doesn't look like he ported yours either as I can see the casting impressions where there should be none.

 

Well ain't that some shit! I was wondering... didn't look like much porting to me.

Did you contact him about it? I'm going to fire him off an email and ask what happened. I have the tools to do it myself, but thought I already paid for it. Looks like I have a little turbo work to do this week.

Congrats on finally getting your turbo back. Are you going to port yours yourself?

 

The gasket on the flange lines up in the mid part of the turbo flange. And the gasket has a little ring etched in to the flange that it sits in. It really would be a nice flange if only the bolt hole spacing was better. The outlet is 1-3/4" which is what the turbo outlet is.

 

Hmm, that sounds like a decent enough match to work. I think I might try to cut the stock charge pipe just before the ribs and use that for the turbo output. I will use it till I get out of the break in period and then get all the parts to do this with the aluminum flange/silicone. I'm not too sure gluing (with a clamp of course) the silicone pipe to the stock plastic pipe will hold up to 20+lbs of boost...?

I can just pick the one up from your link, so you can have yours in your parts bin for future endeavors.

Well ain't that some shit! I was wondering... didn't look like much porting to me.

Did you contact him about it? I'm going to fire him off an email and ask what happened. I have the tools to do it myself, but thought I already paid for it. Looks like I have a little turbo work to do this week.

Congrats on finally getting your turbo back. Are you going to port yours yourself?

 

No, not yet. Let me know what he says. Kinda irks me since I was pretty clear on my instructions.

 

He may have made the WG opening slightly bigger - hard to say w/o measuring. But, it certainly doesn't look that the area around the WG was ported.

It should be easy to tell. Like recently ground down metal with a more silver look to it. I don't think you'd mistake it.

You would see the clean metal if they ported it (unless they painted the housing)

It should be easy to tell. Like recently ground down metal with a more silver look to it. I don't think you'd mistake it.

 

You would see the clean metal if they ported it (unless they painted the housing)

 

It appears that BNR coats the inside and the outside of the exhaust housing. So, if he did port the WG, it wouldn't look ground down, etc. See stewdogg's photo above.

I agree mine doesn't look ported at all. Compared to the pic in this thread it doesn't looked touched in my pic.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/community-turbine-housing-260232.html?highlight=port+turbo

 

I just shot Bryan an email about, I'll see what he says. In the meantime, I will be porting my turbo.

Is there anything not to do while porting it? The general idea is to taper the inlet side by knocking down the one side to a ramp type angle?

Bryan called me today (probably in response to your email), and indicated that he did indeed port the wastegate opening by a few mm. I told him that it doesn't appear that the pathway to the wastegate opening was ported at all, and he indicated that doing so would have ruined the housing.

 

I have my doubts as to whether the wastegate is ported enough but it does not really negate the fact that it appears that BNR did great work on my turbo. If it needs more porting, I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

I received the same call from Bryan and agree that he did what he said he was going to do and a great job of customer service as well.

 

My question is:

This is the same exhaust side of the turbo that everyone else on the forum has used, correct? If that is the case, I should be able to taper the edge of the wastegate without issue. Bryan was saying that the housing is hollow in places and that's how it would get ruined, but as I stated above, the housing seems to have enough meat for the modification.

So, I got a little wastegate porting done tonight.

First two pics are progress and the last two are what I ended up with. Does it look like there should be any other porting done or does it look ready to go?

So, I got a little wastegate porting done tonight.

First two pics are progress and the last two are what I ended up with. Does it look like there should be any other porting done or does it look ready to go?

 

Weird. No hollow areas? :lol:

 

Did you measure the wastegate opening? I'm curious how much BNR increased it.

Weird. No hollow areas? :lol:

 

Did you measure the wastegate opening? I'm curious how much BNR increased it.

 

Haha, yeah, my butt was a little clenched and I was sweating a bit while I was doing it. I figured it was the same exhaust side of the turbo that everyone else has already ported and not found any hollow areas, so I kept grinding. I think it turned out great and smooth from the get go with the die grinder.

 

So, when are you porting yours mcg_?

 

I didn't measure the wastegate opening, but Bryan did say he pushed it out as far as he's comfortable.

Here's the Frankenstein charge pipe I came up with. I'm using the stock charge pipe flange and left a little of the lip from the flexible section to hold the clamp on. It is a very tight fit around the pipe and also in the car. I also have an aluminum flange on the slow boat in case the set up fails under boost.

 

I should hopefully be starting the beast tomorrow night. I have been burning at both ends the last couple weeks and I'm getting burnt. It's a lot of work, planning and money to get this done or at least started again. "Done" might be for another time all together.

Oh yeah, this is the final form for the turbo porting that I ended up with. I couldn't stop and ported quite a bit more, but I'm happy with how it turned out. I didn't find any hollow parts and everything sounds solid when hit with a wrench.

Well, I drove her home tonight!!! Had to wrap some things up, get the initial 20 min break in and oil/filter dump before I could drive it home. I ended up heading home around 12:30am and got home at 2am. Lots of RPM fluctuating on the way home takes a long time.

 

I still have a few things to tie up while I go through the break in period, but I'm already 65 miles down just on the ride home.

 

I really like the the clutch dampener delete and the South bend clutch is so easy to drive, feels like stock.

 

I will do a more proper write up with pics in the next week or so.

 

It's a crappy pic and the car is filthy, but just look at my baby back on the road again (under it's own power) for the first time since February 1st. It was a bunch of work and I'm really glad to have it back!

Does anyone happen to know what the spring is for on the exhaust side cam gears? I imagine it's a part of the AVCS, but not sure if it is used to dampen or balance the gear? I'm wondering if it could possibly make the cam seal leak because...

 

I ended up having some oil coming out from the back of the timing belt cover after I got to work last Friday. I got it pulled apart tonight and found that the spring on the right/passenger side exhaust cam gear was broken and just hanging there. My step dad put that side in and I'm not sure if he noticed or not... I'll check tomorrow and have to give him a hard time if he did!

 

Go figure, they only sell the whole gear and not the spring separately.

They talk about that spring in this short video:

 

 

They state the spring helps in the return of the cam gear which would affect avcs response.

Does anyone happen to know what the spring is for on the exhaust side cam gears? I imagine it's a part of the AVCS, but not sure if it is used to dampen or balance the gear? I'm wondering if it could possibly make the cam seal leak because...

 

I ended up having some oil coming out from the back of the timing belt cover after I got to work last Friday. I got it pulled apart tonight and found that the spring on the right/passenger side exhaust cam gear was broken and just hanging there. My step dad put that side in and I'm not sure if he noticed or not... I'll check tomorrow and have to give him a hard time if he did!

 

Go figure, they only sell the whole gear and not the spring separately.

 

Did you happen to get everything sorted?

Did you happen to get everything sorted?

 

Yeah, I ended up buying a new camshaft sprocket from the dealer and installed it a couple weekends ago. I also found all 4 of my Felpro camshaft seals leaking. I picked up some Subaru seals, replaced them and they have been holding great.

I had some help putting the engine together and found a broken oring on the avcs sensor and the right side valve cover leaking (replaced the fel pro with a Subaru gasket again)... all on the side he worked on. It's all sealed up and holding oil now!

 

I'm about 400 miles from the 1,000 mile break in. I am ready for a little boost and maybe some cruise control real soon.

 

I really need to get off my lazy ass and put a write up of the build in the thread one of these days.

As far as your cam seals leaking, make sure you've got a new PCV valve in there. My seals started leaking at 95k miles and I was told it was probably because the PCV was plugged up. Might as well replace that if you haven't, since you're doing so much other stuff.

Yeah, I put a new T mount and PCV valve in with the build. The one in there was all trashed. Plus, I put way too much effort and money into it not to do the easy and cheap stuff.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I appreciate it!