Strange code won't go away...

It started off with p0024, camshaft in advanced position.

I bought the car used at 165kms and wasn't sure if the timing belt etc had ever been changed and. Not sitting at 210kms so I dropped $900 just to be safe, couldn't hurt I guess.

Code came back so I decided to try the vvt solenoid, replaced that.

Not only did the code come back but now I'm getting 2 additional codes, p0037 & p0040. Both are O2 sensor codes, bank 1 position 2.

Any advice on why I could be throwing these 3 codes simultaneously? Could it be a working short? Does the O2 sensor affect the VVT solenoid?

I don't feel like handing any additional money over to my mechanic right now.

Thanks in advance for any help

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Forgot to add....2010 legacy GT 6mt

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I had that code as my engine was dying. When I tore the engine down I found the tiny filters clogged in the oil control valve body. There was a ton of debris in the filters and they were essentially clogged shut. The valve is in this parts break down, at the bottom of the head (10197/10917A).

https://parts.wildesubaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6023313/CYLINDER-HEAD-SYSTEM-10MY-12MY/B14-006-03.html

You can take them out, but you must be very careful not to rip the screen or break the plastic. The guy at the machine shop put a hole in one of mine and I had to buy a new valve body ($120 from the dealer) because they don't sell the filter separately for this year. I used plenty of mass air flow cleaner (easy on plastics), soft toothbrush and an air compressor to blow air through the filter. I got mine about 99.9% clean and they have been working great.

If it is a clogged valve control screen, then I would be worried why there was so much debris there to begin with...

Only time I have seen camshaft codes is when it was -30F outside...

you could try some auto trans fluid in the oil or kerosene.. those are very effective at removing sludge from engine parts.

you could try some auto trans fluid in the oil or kerosene.. those are very effective at removing sludge from engine parts.

WHAT? this seems like a dangerous idea.... amsoil is not with that program https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/drivetrain-lubricants/articles/transmission-fluid-as-an-engine-flush/

and kerosene will certainly dissolve build up but god knows what it will do to all the different rubber components it'll see. if your that worried about oil contaminants (first off send a sample to blackstone) than use something made to do the job.

WHAT? this seems like a dangerous idea.... amsoil is not with that program https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/drivetrain-lubricants/articles/transmission-fluid-as-an-engine-flush/

 

and kerosene will certainly dissolve build up but god knows what it will do to all the different rubber components it'll see. if your that worried about oil contaminants (first off send a sample to blackstone) than use something made to do the job.

Lol, dangerous...how old are you? Those are old time engine flushes, not that I would recommend them but I wouldn't call them dangerous. Transmission fluid has a lot of detergents in it. You aren't filling the crankcase with the stuff.

Lol, dangerous...how old are you? Those are old time engine flushes, not that I would recommend them but I wouldn't call them dangerous. Transmission fluid has a lot of detergents in it. You aren't filling the crankcase with the stuff.

read amsoil's take, engine oils have more detergents in them than ATF since they are meant to be dealing with combustion. maybe its not dangerous to t anyone, but it is potentially pretty dangerous to your bearings. i hate to break it to you but there are plenty of "old timer" tricks that just do not apply to modern engines and modern situations.

read amsoil's take, engine oils have more detergents in them than ATF since they are meant to be dealing with combustion. maybe its not dangerous to t anyone, but it is potentially pretty dangerous to your bearings. i hate to break it to you but there are plenty of "old timer" tricks that just do not apply to modern engines and modern situations.

ATF does not have more detergents than oil but what it does have is an uncanny ability to eat sludge due to lots of dispersants ... you add 1/2 to 1 quart to the oil and drive about for a few hundred miles and change the oil... AFT is nothing more than hydraulic oil that is tinted red...

ATF is not going to harm an engine... but it sure will clean out the sludge...

ATF does not have more detergents than oil but what it does have is an uncanny ability to eat sludge due to lots of dispersants ... you add 1/2 to 1 quart to the oil and drive about for a few hundred miles and change the oil... AFT is nothing more than hydraulic oil that is tinted red...

 

 

ATF is not going to harm an engine... but it sure will clean out the sludge...

Go for it man, I'll pay for your oil analysis after your next change and if there isn't a high level of copper I'll eat my hat.

please no body do this to a GT there aren't enough to go messing them up.

^ I have yet to break any engine where I have used ATF in the oil to clean out stuff all of my cars have gone 150-200K no issues been driving for nearly 4 decades and well over 1 million miles, nope never had an engine break...not even the 2003 Subaru one when I used the AFT treatment on it nearly 80K ago... when I got it... cleaned the inside of that motor up pretty good

normally one would not do it but if you are not changing your oil on a regular basis, yeah you are going to need to de sludge that mess...

Realize that oil dilution is a factor to consider that the seals have to stand, so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

realize that my fuel dilution on my last analysis was 1.3%... and so that's .065 quarts or 61ish mL of GASOLINE not the 1/2 quart they are talking about of KEROSENE which would be 10% dilution of a substance that isn't meant to be in any part of the engine. that 1.3% would have been a slight concern if it weren't for the fact that my car gets started very cold and warmed at idle hundreds of times per year.

Either way, When I had my engine apart and cleaned out my oil control filters there was debris in the filter that needed to be back flowed to get it out. There would be no way to do this with any kind of fluid.

I agree that if you are going down this road there are bigger issues at hand. I run a fleet and get an average of 400,000 miles on my engines. I have used marvel and trans fluid to help an issue and I have never had any luck with a magic fluid as a solution. Normally you have to bite the bullet and fix the issue. I have used Dr. Tranny to get me another 1,000 miles on torque converters from time to time, but inevitably the problem needs a fix and not a band aid.

Good luck OP and don't let the discussion steer you away from finding an answer to your issue.

Update...I changed the oil solenoid, code came back.

I also checked the banjo bolt next to it and the filter was already removed. I read somewhere that was common a practice so I didn't question it.

I'm due for another oil change so hopefully it just needs another flush.

The next step I'll try is to change both O2 sensors, not sure why all 3 are showing at the same time, maybe there's a connection.

I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the replies.

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Update:

I changed the downstream O2 sensor and both codes have been gone for a week now.

I spent so much time troubleshooting the camshaft position problem for no reason. Lesson learned. Stupid O2 sensor causing a phantom code.

Car running perfect again

Thanks for everyone's input.

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so just had this p0024 code fire as well, and i'm just off 2 variables...

1. had the car sitting for a decent amount of time as i'm working from home

2. just completed the turbo back exhaust, it had previously only been downpipe

to stock catback

code fired on the way home from that install. The car has not yet been retuned after the exhaust added. Car idles fine, car was running/driving fine, though it did just cut out on me as i was pulling into have the oil changed.

I went through the screenshot someone attached, step 1 had me move onto step 2, being that @ idle the AVCS Exh L and R both stayed @ 0.

when i did step 2, it seemed as though the AVCS Exh L was inconsistent with the others, appearing to spike higher by roughly 150% throughout the cycles, what's this mean? the below #s are just via cobb's peak reporting.

AVCS Exh L = 45

AVCS Exh R = 30

AVCS In L = 30

AVCS In R = 30

So oils been changed, codes reset and car has driven fine since, no codes, but only toiled around town for an hour or so. I did however notice a lot of inconsistency from the AVCS Exh L at this point, at times high like it was before, but then at one point it was settling @ 0 while the others all stayed more or less in sync with each other during driving - what if anything does this mean? i'm lost on this level of data and it's paralyzing me cause i don't know what's bad, real bad, or meaningless/standard

so I can have the shop check o2 sensors? or should i just order and replace that AVCS solenoid assuming that left side one is fubar'ed. Wanting to understand what i can lock in on based on those #s. Or is this something else i can data mine for?

I was supposed to take the car to VT tomorrow, not gonna have time to settle this all out i don't think - at this point hard recommendation to resolve before any significant mileage, right?

left side oil control solenoid replaced - cleaned this right up

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