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Sound inside dash when I turn off the car.


Dergara

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It should take them way less since they are so used to replace passenger airbags, which requires dash removal.

 

 

Yeah... And so it might be however you bet they will charge me book time even if it takes them 2/3 of it to do the job. Service department and used cars is where dealership makes some money as margins on new are low.

 

 

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  • 4 months later...

I just did this on a 2007 OBXT and have to say it was the worst thing I have ever done- AND I have not even installed the new actuator yet or reassembled everything... The dash was not really that bad to get off- took me about 1.5 hours of actual work plus lots of internet research and FSM skimming.

 

The worst part was access to two of the three tiny screws for the actuator mount. They suck. My arsenal of new specialty tools and redneckery has grown to say the least. I did not look into taking the steering column out which would have helped tremendously (in hindsight). I did remove the steering wheel for better reach.

 

And yes- only new OEM parts going in as I will not do this again!

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Luckily I already had one of those pocket-sized right angle screwdrivers in my tool drawer. Very useful for R&R'ing the actuator mount given the tight confines.

 

http://johnpoelstra.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/right-angle-screw-driver.jpg

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Cripes!

The HVAC door blend actuators can be accessed via the passenger footwell on RHD cars...

 

Even then lying down face up in the footwell is a good idea for access.

 

Is that a possible alternative (to taking out the dash) for LHD cars?

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Luckily I already had one of those pocket-sized right angle screwdrivers in my tool drawer. Very useful for R&R'ing the actuator mount given the tight confines.

 

http://johnpoelstra.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/right-angle-screw-driver.jpg

 

 

Another alternative: I used the flexible extension cable from this kit with my drill. It worked very well for me.

https://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html

 

 

 

Cripes!

The HVAC door blend actuators can be accessed via the passenger footwell on RHD cars...

 

Even then lying down face up in the footwell is a good idea for access.

 

Is that a possible alternative (to taking out the dash) for LHD cars?

 

 

I'll find out soon! my driver side hvac actuator is making noise now.

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Cripes!

The HVAC door blend actuators can be accessed via the passenger footwell on RHD cars...

 

Even then lying down face up in the footwell is a good idea for access.

 

Is that a possible alternative (to taking out the dash) for LHD cars?

 

3 of the 4 HVAC actuators on LHD cars are accessible from the passenger footwell without removing the dash.

The 4th one (driver's side blend actuator) is not.

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Another alternative: I used the flexible extension cable from this kit with my drill. It worked very well for me.

https://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html

 

I have a kit that looks almost identical to that. Same mediocre bits, even the same driver handle that comes from the factory pre-bent for your annoyance. :lol:

 

But mine didn't come with the flex cable!

 

tenor.gif

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  • 3 weeks later...

You can get the drivers side one out without removing the dash. I did it albeit wasn't easy

 

I replaced that actuator a few months ago. It died stuck in the full cold position, in winter, naturally.

 

 

You don't have to remove the heater core, but yes, the dash has to come out to access that actuator. Center vent/cubby assembly, center console & trim, stereo head unit & HVAC controls, drop the glove box & trim, drivers side lower & upper dash trim, instrument cluster, A pillar trim, all of that, then you can pull the dash.

 

 

I forget the exact order, but the shop manual is actually somewhat helpful provided you have the patience to follow the trail of info for each panel. Just think of it like a "choose your own adventure" where you have to navigate from one page to the next! It pretty well points out the screws that need to be removed, and they are not too hard to find when you're in there working on it. I had never removed the vent cubby or instrument cluster before, let alone the entire dash, and I did the actuator replacement in one day (several hours). Still need to do the mode select actuator (noisy but still works) but that one is child's play compared to the drivers' side air mix one.

 

 

Honestly, I should have at least called the stealership to get a quote on this job. It would have been worth a few hundred to have somebody else #@&% with it, but I was feeling masochistic and had no other plans for my New Year's Day this year. :rolleyes:

It would also be my strong opinion that you should install a brand new part, rather than try to regrease or re-bend the contacts or do some other well-intentioned but cheap-ass solution to reuse the existing one, given the PITA of the surgery.

 

 

 

 

x1Iy29y.jpg

 

Couple of pics looking down through the windshield. Actuator is the part with the green plug going into it.

uBJHGLy.jpg

 

 

rWSSr44.jpg

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3 of the 4 HVAC actuators on LHD cars are accessible from the passenger footwell without removing the dash.

The 4th one (driver's side blend actuator) is not.

 

Isn't there just 3 of these. I have to do it on my daughter 2007 Outback.

 

I think on my old 2005 Outback XT I only replaced 3.

 

2 in passenger footwell area and 1 on driver side

 

72131AG27A

72131AG24A

72131AG26A

 

https://orderparts.bestbuysubaru.com/v-2007-subaru-outback--r-l-l-bean-edition--3-0l-h6-gas/hvac--evaporator-and-heater-components

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No worries. Yeah, you've been here since 2005 :eek:. Freak, that's 14 years ago!!

 

Yep, I don't get on here much anymore as I sold my built outback XT in 2017.

 

Driving a 2013 STI hatch now.....

 

I still check in once in a while as my daughter has a 2007 Outback Sedan

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Isn't there just 3 of these. I have to do it on my daughter 2007 Outback.

 

I think on my old 2005 Outback XT I only replaced 3.

 

2 in passenger footwell area and 1 on driver side

 

72131AG27A

72131AG24A

72131AG26A

 

https://orderparts.bestbuysubaru.com/v-2007-subaru-outback--r-l-l-bean-edition--3-0l-h6-gas/hvac--evaporator-and-heater-components

 

You have driver's blend/temp, mode (defrost/vent/floor output), and passenger blend/temp in the order you posted them.

The 4th one is the one that controls fresh/recirc. Pretty sure that one is mounted to the blower assembly, not the heater core, so it would be on a different parts diagram than the other three.

I think it's 72131AG23A but don't take that as gospel. I bought the other three actuators, but not the fresh/recirc one, because it doesn't really seem to be failing on people's cars.

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  • 1 month later...
It should take them way less since they are so used to replace passenger airbags, which requires dash removal.

 

I think they figured out how to do that without removing the dash. I remember asking them to fix that rattling plastic clip if they remove the dash. I was told that was another 5 hour job. they don't remove the dash for the air bag recall.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 6 months later...

i have this same issue, clicking when the AC is on ( only in summer ) and blowing the front vents- it's so freaking loud i thought it was an issue with my speedometer cable the 1st time i heard it. right under steering column.

so when i have AC on thru front face vents it just clicks away over and over- i can climate control on face and feet and it goes away. not the best spot to be in while in blazing summer heat.

or i can put the climate control on defrost & feet and it goes away completely.

it's been 3 years of dealing with this, not paying $1500 for dealer to fix, don't have space to DIY and remove the dash completely.

maybe one nice day, not 90 degrees out i can jump under the dash to see if i can see actuator arm, but i'm not too worried about it since it does (knock on wood) still work correctly and my best option to drown out the clicking is to turn up the radio volume.

just annoying that Subaru knows it's an issue they should fix for free - its their $hitty parts that stopped or partially stopped working correctly.

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