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Why not Mobil1 ? Awaiting my Legacy order, but that's all I've ever used on my 2010 Altima 3.5 SR. and no problems. Never had Subaru before so just asking. Thanks

 

It's more important for the GTs, really. You can run pretty much whatever you want in your NA.

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FWIW, I found also that my 2.5i consumes Mobil1 10W30. About 1 quart during the 3,000 mile service interval. I'm trying out Quaker State Synth right now and it didn't consume any until I hit 3,000 miles then I added 1/3 quart and drove another 600 miles. I checked it yesterday and its still at the top of the dipstick. Its now overdue for a change but the weather it just a little too cold for that right now. So I agree that Mobil1 is consumed by my car more than others. I'm going to try Castrol synth 5W30 next.
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- There is no "best" oil

 

- Judging by its metallic additive pack, there is definitely nothing special about the Subaru oil. Whether or not there are special magical non-metallic additives that do not show up in a uoa is anyone's guess.

 

- For an n/a car, flip a coin and use any GF5 oil. Even Mobil1. N/A cars can do 10-12k miles easily on Wal-Mart Super Tech and there are uoa's to back this up.

 

- "Synthetic" is a marketing term and carries no formal API, SAE, or ILSAC definition.

 

:munch:

 

-Dennis

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  • 1 month later...

Some of us send oil samples to Blackstone Labs for analysis. I highly reccomend that everyone who is keeping their car for the long term do that. It's even a good idea if you're buying a car that is not going away to another buyer anytime soon.

 

Blackstone has tested thousands upon thousands of samples of oil, from every supplier, in every type of car. And those samples often run the entire life of the car, particularly in commercial fleets. So you would think they have a pretty good idea of which is the best oil!

 

"What's the best oil to use?

Ah, the million dollar question. We are an independent lab, so we don't make recommendations. It has been our experience that oil is oil, and either petroleum or synthetic-based oil will work well for just about any engine."

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/faq.php

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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  • 3 weeks later...

I still think there's merit in using Synthetic oil in very cold temperatures. I don't know how much more engine wear happens due to conventional oil being thicker at startup than synth, but I'd think there has to be less wear with synthetic. It also has to be easier on the starter and battery.

 

I'm using Castrol Syntec right now and it has burned a little more than Quaker State Synth. I've added 300ml so far and will probably need another 200ml before its time to change it. Not bad. Its warming up so I'm going to switch to 10W30 conventional and see how that does next.

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I'm sure it's come up but I'd just like to know which oil is best if going synthetic. Is subaru brand oil as good as the others? Also is there a trick to using the search function on here? I keep getting a lot of random results that gave nothing to do with my intended search.

 

i guess best oil is debatable among everyone as different people have different results and will die and swear by a particular brand.I personally use Rotella T6 and have never had any issues in my past 3 subies ive owned,so i guess that's a winner in my books, but again others might differ on such...:lol:

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I still think there's merit in using Synthetic oil in very cold temperatures. I don't know how much more engine wear happens due to conventional oil being thicker at startup than synth, but I'd think there has to be less wear with synthetic. It also has to be easier on the starter and battery.

I suppose you could say that synthetic should flow more easily in extreme cold, generally speaking. But if you're only talking very cold starts of 5W-x "synthetic" vs. 5W-x "conventional", there is no base oil distinction in regards to the cold cranking viscosity test that a 5W-x oil must pass. All 5W-x oils must past the test at -30C. A synthetic 0W-x gets you another 5 degrees celcius colder.

 

When comparing any oil, there is no specific rule that a certain type of oil will be a certain thickness due to the oil's base stocks. There is only a maximum apparent viscosity at a given tempurature. For 5W-x, the maximum is 6,600 mPa's at -30C regardless of whether or not it is conventional or synthetic.

 

http://www.pqiamerica.com/coldcrank.htm

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And just because I love the 'Best Oil" controversy:

 

In my race car I use Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30. It is not for street cars because it has no detergents. But it IS loaded up with Phosphorus and Zinc! It has double the level of Phosphorus and Zinc as Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30.

 

Racing: Phosphorus: 1750; Zinc: 1850

Extended Performance: Phosphorus: 700 ; Zinc: 900

 

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-racing-oil

 

You will never find it at a local retail store.

 

Expensive as heck, $95 for 6 quarts on Amazon. x 6-8 changes during a race season.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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And just because I love the 'Best Oil" controversy:

 

In my race car I use Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30. It is not for street cars because it has no detergents. But it IS loaded up with Phosphorus and Zinc! It has double the level of Phosphorus and Zinc as Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30.

 

Racing: Phosphorus: 1750; Zinc: 1850

Extended Performance: Phosphorus: 700 ; Zinc: 900

 

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-racing-oil

 

You will never find it at a local retail store.

 

Expensive as heck, $95 for 6 quarts on Amazon. x 6-8 changes during a race season.

 

Do you change your oil after every race? Also curious if you have done a blackstone oil analysis after a race to see what it tells you.

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Do you change your oil after every race? Also curious if you have done a blackstone oil analysis after a race to see what it tells you.

 

Good questions!

 

I change it usually every other race weekend, unless it's a particularly long multi race weekend. For example if I did a 3 day race weekend of Sprint races plus a 1 hour Enduro plus a "special" race.

 

Yes on Blackstone, not every race. Usually in the middle and at the end of the season. That let's me know if I'm getting close to rebuild during the season or if I have to do in the winter.. So far so good!

 

I think if you did it after every race normal wear would barely show up, but of course it might catch a catastrophe about to happen too.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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  • 2 weeks later...
And just because I love the 'Best Oil" controversy:

 

In my race car I use Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30. It is not for street cars because it has no detergents. But it IS loaded up with Phosphorus and Zinc! It has double the level of Phosphorus and Zinc as Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30.

 

Racing: Phosphorus: 1750; Zinc: 1850

Extended Performance: Phosphorus: 700 ; Zinc: 900

 

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-racing-oil

 

You will never find it at a local retail store.

 

Expensive as heck, $95 for 6 quarts on Amazon. x 6-8 changes during a race season.

Actually, M1 0W30 Racing oil has has much detergent as M1 0W40.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2143795

 

I'm guessing it's not for street use due to the high ZDDP. Especially phosphorus which is the cat killer. This stuff makes RT6 look light.

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