150,000 miles. Overhaul time. Struts, brakes, ect

Just got back from sea and was met by a dead battery, followed by a coolant leak, to which I then noticed a small exhaust leak, and then the oil pan, the steering rack has been leaking, ect...

 

I had not touched the car since the turbo replacement back at 110k so it's been long overdue for a good teardown.

 

Posting for input on what struts to go with. I'm done with the ISC coilovers and they have over 50,000 on them and are shot. I have heard good about KYB but what type? I'm even interested in installing outback height suspension if that is not too crazy an idea. I do some towing and trial going with this car and being low is getting annoying.

 

Currently, have the entire front subframe dropped for ease of everything else.

Doing, rebuilt steering rack, replacing the oil pickup tube, new water pump, some hoses, worm gear clamps, tie rods ends, ball joints, front rotors, and pads, new exhaust manifold studs and gaskets. Anything else I'm missing while I'm in here?

 

Also hey!, Have not posted in a real long time. Hello to all the new guys and the old guys.

I think I'd do sway bar end links at the same time too.

 

You might already know about this, but be careful with that pinch bolt at the top of the ball joint...I broke both of mine, but if you're more experienced with rusty bolts you'll probably have better luck than I did. I only tried penetrating oil, I've never used a torch before.

 

*I also forgot that in SC the bolt might give you an easier time too, but I'd still be careful.

Hello!

 

What is your ultimate goal with this car?

 

I think that will be a big part in identifying what suspension to go with.

 

Also aftermarket thicker sway bars make a huge difference in handling.

 

 

You might already know about this, but be careful with that pinch bolt at the top of the ball joint...I broke both of mine, but if you're more experienced with rusty bolts you'll probably have better luck than I did. I only tried penetrating oil, I've never used a torch before.

 

Yes these can be quite the pain. I have on several occasions just drilled the pinch bolt out and replaced with a nut and bolt. This process can be a bit irritating however once replaced it's always been a breeze to remove after that.

I think I'd do sway bar end links at the same time too.

 

You might already know about this, but be careful with that pinch bolt at the top of the ball joint...I broke both of mine, but if you're more experienced with rusty bolts you'll probably have better luck than I did. I only tried penetrating oil, I've never used a torch before.

 

*I also forgot that in SC the bolt might give you an easier time too, but I'd still be careful.

 

I have actually moved to Washington now. And already had to deal with the pinch bolt and it's good to go now. Last time I was in the front suspension I replace the end links on a front and rear and had the pinch bolt out. I already have them out again. The biggest pain I've had is getting the steel insert in the aluminum control arms off the ball joint.

 

My goals are not necessarily handling anymore I'm beyond those years. I found that the stock sway bars were fine with my coilovers. If I want to go around the corner I go out for a drive in my borderline track prepared RSTi.

 

I have a full size hitch on my legacy and I do a fair bit of towing with my 5 by 10 trailer for house projects. Being low is really annoying with how low the hitches is. Would love to get back on some soft riding suspension and raise it up at the same time if possible. I've done Outback suspension on second gen Legacy before but I'm not sure if it's the same gig on 4th gens.

I was currently looking for the same answer. I have a hitch on my gen 4 too, and hate how low it is. Rallitek use to have rear overload springs for our cars, but I no longer see them on their website, but there is outback. I'm not sure if the outback struts fit or not. I am trying to avoid using the strut spacers, but it might be my best option.