What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Getting close now.

Clutch is installed, Southbend Stage 3 Daily that I picked up slightly used.

Going to install the Verus fork and mate the tranny back up.

Have the last couple hoses coming in today, might actually be able to try to drop it all back in.

Praying I haven't forgotten anything that would require me to pull it back out...

Things still to do:

- Drill out the one last sheared bolt for the turbo bracket ()

- Swap PS pump

- New ground wires

- Double/Triple check all hoses/wires

- Fluids

- A million little details for reconnecting everything once it's back in the car

- Flash an updated tune with the TGV codes disabled

- Stuff I don't remember at the moment

I miss my southbend stage 3 daily. Did you get new clutch fork? Or the billet fork at least? Mine went out on my 5 speed.

Good call on billet fork. May go back to southbend when this ACT goes out. If I don't do a proper 6 speed swap

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

I can't wait to see how it all feels.

I've had to baby a slipping OEM DM clutch/flywheel for a while now.

Once all back together, I'll have the Southbend Stage 3 Daily, OEM SMFW, Billet fork/pivot, and Moore Blast plates.

That's a 4lb lighter flywheel, plus a 4.44 final drive instead of a 4.11.

Anxious to see how it drives :-D

Some very cool gauge pods here:

 

Scroll down to the bottom of the page

 

http://www.ortizcustompods.com/subaru.html

The gauge pod in the door handle and the shifter benzel is pretty interesting.

The center dash one looks pretty nice too.

Good find.

https://www.block8head.com/

This is my preference for gauges. It’s at the edge of your LOS, greatly increasing safety. I have one of his Legacy 2-gauge pods, and likely will be picking up a 3-gauge soon.

https://www.block8head.com/

 

This is my preference for gauges. It’s at the edge of your LOS, greatly increasing safety. I have one of his Legacy 2-gauge pods, and likely will be picking up a 3-gauge soon.

If you do go 3-gauge, I'll take that 2-gauge off your hands. I have the single pod and regret not going for the double.

Installing a set of Bilstein front shocks and a new axel.

Yay?

j.

I can't wait to see how it all feels.

I've had to baby a slipping OEM DM clutch/flywheel for a while now.

Once all back together, I'll have the Southbend Stage 3 Daily, OEM SMFW, Billet fork/pivot, and Moore Blast plates.

That's a 4lb lighter flywheel, plus a 4.44 final drive instead of a 4.11.

Anxious to see how it drives :-D

What are your projected power numbers? I thought I read the SB stage 1 was good to over 450 ft/lbs.

What are your projected power numbers? I thought I read the SB stage 1 was good to over 450 ft/lbs.

Stage 1 is up to 295 ft/lbs.

Stage 3 Daily is up to 400 ft/lbs.

There are more Stage 3 and Stage 4 that can handle up to 550lbs...

I'm estimating I'm somewhere around 300/300 to the wheels right now, and may go up a bit in the next year if I get around to bumping injectors. Plus I got a really good deal on the Stage 3 so why not.

I put the engine/tranny back in the car tonight. Have about 2-3 hrs left of hooking things back up like exhaust, engine grounds, radiator, bunch of fluids, etc, etc.

Then pray that I didn't forget something important... :lol:

Getting close now.

 

[ATTACH]277666[/ATTACH]

 

Clutch is installed, Southbend Stage 3 Daily that I picked up slightly used.

Going to install the Verus fork and mate the tranny back up.

Hey that looks familiar Glad it made it over there! I liked the Southbend clutch so much I got another stage 3 daily for my 6 speed, its a winner! Good progress, too, its always exciting seeing a project come back together.

I suppose my own project is 'done', haven't done a ton recently tho. Just driving, lamenting the summer heat and watching it get hailed on I'm a little late for updates, but I got my tune done over at Cryotune recently! Super stoked how she turned out. 396hp/401tq on E85.

https://www.block8head.com/

 

This is my preference for gauges. It’s at the edge of your LOS, greatly increasing safety. I have one of his Legacy 2-gauge pods, and likely will be picking up a 3-gauge soon.

That's who I got mine from as well, super happy with it. Unobtrusive and highly visible. My only consideration would be a hood of some sort over the faces to block some glare on the windshield. Even with some minor reflections present, I'd buy it again.

I can't wait to see how it all feels.

I've had to baby a slipping OEM DM clutch/flywheel for a while now.

Once all back together, I'll have the Southbend Stage 3 Daily, OEM SMFW, Billet fork/pivot, and Moore Blast plates.

That's a 4lb lighter flywheel, plus a 4.44 final drive instead of a 4.11.

Anxious to see how it drives :-D

The 4.44 FD will give you a better launch, but you'll sacrifice on the top end - tire dependent, all else equal. Good call on the billet fork/pivot. I was looking at the fork in my 5MT vs the 6MT and there is no comparison. The 6MT really reflects it's Teutonic (Porsche) engineering, everywhere I look on it.

Got the new Bilstein front struts put in with STi pinks, and a new front axel shaft (the old one was spewing grease onto the downpipe). Two weeks ago, I replaced all of the rear bushings with polys and put in Bilsteins with some Moog "anti-sag" wagon springs. Last year was replacing the steering bushings, control arms and bushings, etc... The alignment and possibly new inner and outer tie-rods will get done next week, but sheesh! WHAT. A. DIFFERENCE! The wagon rides 1,000% better.

Thanks to all who have contributed the great info and ideas on this forum.

Cheers,

j.

Oil change on the specB today and I forgot to get my UOA sample. Really pissed at myself for forgetting especially since it's my first full oil change and about 4800 miles on the new motor.

Refilled with a new version of Shell full synth 5w30 diesel truck oil, but not T6. Came in a 5qt red jug and was on sale at AutoZone with filter for about $30.

Installed solid front endlinks too. Gonna wash it in a bit.

My beloved 05 Momo steering wheel has started to fall apart. Not an urgent fix, but it steps up the timeline on getting steering wheel controls going...cause why not.

I am not sure if anyone has put the cruise and audio controls from an 09 into an 05 (I did zero research) but I started looking on my own since I have an 09 wheel from the junk yard. Looks like I just need to swap out clock springs (easier said then done) and add a harness in the column to the head unit for both the illumination and audio controls.

The cruise control resistance readings are 1:1 with the dingle dongle that the 05 has, so that's sweet!

Also the wiring diagram looks like the wiring for the airbag is also 1:1 aside from one wire's color coding (but copper is copper, it sees no color)

If anyone whats me to make a more detailed thread when I am done let me know. This will also open up the aftermarket options of wheels that still accept an airbag.

Got the new Bilstein front struts put in with STi pinks, and a new front axel shaft (the old one was spewing grease onto the downpipe). Two weeks ago, I replaced all of the rear bushings with polys and put in Bilsteins with some Moog "anti-sag" wagon springs. Last year was replacing the steering bushings, control arms and bushings, etc... The alignment and possibly new inner and outer tie-rods will get done next week, but sheesh! WHAT. A. DIFFERENCE! The wagon rides 1,000% better.

 

Thanks to all who have contributed the great info and ideas on this forum.

 

Cheers,

 

j.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

It was relatively cool last night, so I went boost tuning using the Cortex EBC that controls the EWG. I have a BNR16g, and am trying to target a flat ~17psi. The EWG is controlled with a 4-port solenoid and the IWG controlled by the ECU but set to 100% WGDC at full throttle.

Anyway, after trying to refine the open loop boost control I finally enabled closed loop just in 2nd gear to see if the PID controller could find the correct curve. Did I mention this thing has per gear control? Anyway it spikes up to 17.5psi, then sags below target to 16PSI. By 5500RPM the EWG goes quiet and WGDC up to the 80% range (about where a MAC 35A/45A flatlines), while still staying at 16PSI of boost. Around 6500 RPM boost becomes controllable again and starts trending upwards with WGDC in the mid 60%'s.

So by the upper midrange the EWG is more or less closed, and the MAF is only barley more than the IWG was flowing for the same boost level. Thus I think the IWG is cracking open until VE drops and the EWG can come back into play to limit pressure. The IWG has a V2 Mamba actuator with their 12PSI/0.8 bar spring in it, but at 0% WDGC it wants to boost 10PSI ish. I figured that would be enough based on the 2x spring PSI boost limit figure people toss around, but it looks like not.

This is the spring chart from my current V2 actuator. There is a big jump from 12psi to 18psi spring options

This is the chart from the the V3 Mamba actuators, which they sell an upgrade kit for.

I use the EWG for part throttle control to keep things civilized as the EWG is VTA. It is also used by the meth failsafes to limit boost if they trip out. The green connector is pulled to ground and the ECU goes to IWG spring boost and a conservative fueling map.

So I'm in a bit of a pickle. If I swap in the 18PSI spring, the IWG will be useless at part throttle as I don't plan on ever getting to 18PSI of boost. It also wont do much of anything in failsafe mode. So do I leave it as is but try and crank up preload, do I buy the upgrade kit to get a 15 psi spring, do I try the 18 psi spring and hope for the best, or do I say f**kit and find a way to fit a 2-port wastegate on the IWG. Kingwana makes one that can be had for about $110 that will likely fit with the rod I had made, but it used a diaphragm instead of the super robust Mamba piston. I think Turbosmart actuators might also be adaptable to 2-port mode, but even used they are $$$.

:spin::spin:

So, got it all back together.

All the fluids in, double, triple checked everything.

Go to start it up, starts up fine.

Idle learn is going ok.

Notice a little leaking from the back of the engine.

Is coolant.

Is ok, prob from one of the heater hoses.

Nope.

No leaky hose.

It's leaking from the lower starter bolt...

How can it do that?

Sit down kids and let me tell you a story.

Looks like a previous owner replaced the starter at one point (or pulls the engine).

Then puts it back together.

The lower starter/bellhousing bolt is shorter than the others.

Someone puts in one of the longer ones and keeps going until it shears off

Then puts a placeholder bolt in with some kind of thread sealant.

I come along and find the sheared bolt.

No problem I say, I'll just drill that out and we'll be good to go.

I never considered that they might have buried the old one all the way to the end.

So drill until I get to the end of the "bolt" and have a little gap.

I totally expect this.

Tap it to rethread and all is well.

Fast forward to today.

When I realize that coolant CAN come out of that bolt hole because the "gap" I drilled into is a freaking coolant passage behind the bolt hole.

Curious as to the depth, I go measure the bolt hole on the old engine.

Mark it on a screwdriver.

Insert the screwdriver into the "new" engine.

Sure enough, it goes a little more than 1/2" further. :mad:

Trying to decide if I can try to use either some jbweld or gasket maker in the hole ahead of the bolt to seal up the passage.

Either way, I think I'm about done for the day...

Sad to say it’s been almost 7 weeks since the last time I drove my car. The accord sucks. Life has been piling on and I have a long list of things I need to get done on it still. Hopefully it’ll be back on the road this week. Need to get the cam seals replaced, fenders rolled and pulled to run 265’s, JDM coils to be installed, and I’m still buying parts for it even though I haven’t been driving it... It may seem like I complain a lot about the long list of things to be done but really it’s more of a frustration from not being able to make dreams a reality yet. I’d rather be in this position than be done and bored of the car.

Stock Headers, Up pipe, Down pipe, front bumper, and some FMIC piping has been removed tonight. Going to try to make a final push tomorrow to get it done before it gets too hot outside. Supposed to be 109 this weekend.

Oil change on the specB today and I forgot to get my UOA sample. Really pissed at myself for forgetting especially since it's my first full oil change and about 4800 miles on the new motor.

Did the same on my recent OB 3.6R after a first ever for me, 7500 mile OCI. . Had the bottle available and forgot to prep for it. By the time I was done with the drain, the realization that I hadn't drawn a sample finally dawned on me.

Sad to say it’s been almost 7 weeks since the last time I drove my car. The accord sucks. Life has been piling on and I have a long list of things I need to get done on it still. Hopefully it’ll be back on the road this week. Need to get the cam seals replaced, fenders rolled and pulled to run 265’s, JDM coils to be installed, and I’m still buying parts for it even though I haven’t been driving it... It may seem like I complain a lot about the long list of things to be done but really it’s more of a frustration from not being able to make dreams a reality yet. I’d rather be in this position than be done and bored of the car.

 

Stock Headers, Up pipe, Down pipe, front bumper, and some FMIC piping has been removed tonight. Going to try to make a final push tomorrow to get it done before it gets too hot outside. Supposed to be 109 this weekend.

Hang in there.... My car sat for a couple of months while I could punch a hole in my schedule to work on it. In my case it became a mad rush in the end to make my tuning appointment. The results will be worth the wait though:)

Finished up the final rebuild punch list. Only 75 items on it. Still moving toward lightoff by the end if the month. Some small parts to order.

What are you all using for Subarus Niglide Grease?