Project Phoenix: 05 Wagon Restoration

Did you use anything to clean the aluminum bits? I have the whole rear set from a SpecB waiting to go in but I want to clean them up before install.

 

Did you think about coating them with any protectant as well?

On the picture with the rotor installed - what are those lines heading toward the rear of the car? Windshield washer fluid? I would have expected that and wiring harnesses to be routed through the cabin.

 

 

Did you use anything to clean the aluminum bits? I have the whole rear set from a SpecB waiting to go in but I want to clean them up before install.

 

Did you think about coating them with any protectant as well?

I'd assume they were sand/media blasted or hot tanked.

Did you use anything to clean the aluminum bits? I have the whole rear set from a SpecB waiting to go in but I want to clean them up before install.

 

Did you think about coating them with any protectant as well?

 

Just used soapy water and a rag to wipe them down. Mine were pretty clean to start with, but I imagine you could use a soft wire wheel or brush to clean them up without hurting the surface. Didn't bother coating them with anything.

 

On the picture with the rotor installed - what are those lines heading toward the rear of the car? Windshield washer fluid? I would have expected that and wiring harnesses to be routed through the cabin.

 

I'd assume they were sand/media blasted or hot tanked.

 

Those lines are part of the emissions system; they run to the charcoal canister from the fuel tank and only the smallest of the 5 is actually a wiring harness. The other 4 are just vacuum hoses. I believe this is an 05 only setup.

Spent an hour or so throwing the underbody brush guards back on and hooking up the park brake cables. Starting to look like a functional car again!

Edited July 25, 2019 by Chocoholic005

Been quite a while since we've been able to work on the wagon; August was a busy month. Took some time over the last few days to install a new front brake line bundle; with this, the vehicle has all new brake hard lines. Also installed a WRX 1" brake master cylinder and associated brake booster, which took me like two hours in uncomfortable positions... Also sold a couple big items from the car, like the transmission and was able to get the budget back in order.

Looking good! Why the WRX master/booster?

Looking good! Why the WRX master/booster?

 

I believe we are a 7/8" master cyl, going to a 1" will increase braking power and overall smoothness

I believe we are a 7/8" master cyl, going to a 1" will increase braking power and overall smoothness

 

Bingo. In going to the brembo set-up, I want to be able to push more fluid per inch of pedal stroke. I didn't want to go all the way up to a 1 1/8th STI unit because that tends to result in a more stiff pedal. Some people like this; I prefer something a little softer on a street driven car, so the WRX master cylinder is a good compromise.

Spent another few hours in the garage this weekend. We shifted our attention to the front suspension. First we installed a refurbished front sub frame, which replaced the original unit that was just too ratty for my liking. Then we installed the Spec. B lower control arms, cusco bracing and plates. The front KW V2 coilovers went in after that, and the front knuckles followed with brand new Whiteline ball joints as part of their roll-center kit. New wheel bearings, wheel speed sensors and DBA 4000 rotors finished off the day. Still have to put in a refurbished steering rack and associated components before we can completely finish off the suspension.

I'd like to see if you have any trouble getting the rear axles or rear diff in with the chassis braces. I think I had to remove the short pieces. That was about 8 years ago when I did that.

With the attention to detail why not put in a +15 sti steering rack?

 

Good question... because I had a 16MY Series Hyper Blue for the last 10 months and I hated the steering on that car. That combined with the obnoxious amount of torque steer were the reasons I ultimately sold that car. Never liked it. I've had two STIs now and I've hated them both.

Interesting...I feel like that would have been attributed to the differential/driveline settings more than a steering rack.

 

 

Gorgeous build so far!

Interesting...I feel like that would have been attributed to the differential/driveline settings more than a steering rack.

 

The torque steer, absolutely, in addition to wheelbase and suspension geometry. However the overly heavy steering and reduced precision was my biggest complaint.

Over the weekend we spent only a couple hours on the car. Installed a lightly used power steering rack and new tie rod ends from the whiteline roll centering kit. This included some Cusco power steering braces and a front power brace. Last we through in the whiteline front sway bar and called it a day.

I was never able to find a fuel tank solenoid bracket, used only on 05 models from what I can tell, so I decided to fabricate one instead. Had a T-bracket laying around, and after some cutting, hammering, drilling and paint, I had a new bracket. Additionally, I also disassembled a set of brembos and sent them off for powder coat along with my Rota Gravel take-offs. They look rough, but they should clean up nicely.

Few other odds and ends we did this weekend; started restoring the Genome axle-back exhaust that came on the car. They're in decent shape aside from the flanges and hangers being quite rusty. The bolts were essentially fused to the flanges and quite a pain to remove. We also installed the front end links, put back the dash pad and associated wiring troughs from the brake line install, and adjusted the brake pedal position relative to the new master cylinder. Don't worry, those horrible pedals will be gone soon enough.

Over the weekend we spent only a couple hours on the car. Installed a lightly used power steering rack and new tie rod ends from the whiteline roll centering kit. This included some Cusco power steering braces and a front power brace. Last we through in the whiteline front sway bar and called it a day.

 

n ice build you have going. you mind sharing the part number for the cusco steering braces. I've only come across RHD pieces and looks like they won't work

n ice build you have going. you mind sharing the part number for the cusco steering braces. I've only come across RHD pieces and looks like they won't work

 

Cusco Part#: 692 026 ALHD

Its been a big week for the wagon. Last weekend I went on a shopping binge and ordered everything I needed for the 6-speed upgrade. Sourced a JDM S402 6-speed transmission from JDM Racing Motors in Canada on Sunday and they had it here by Thursday afternoon. A low mileage R180 diff out of an 11MY STI was delivered Wednesday, and Friday I picked up a load of small parts from the local Subaru dealership, in addition to Spec B. axles, a driveshaft and some Cobb goodies that showed up at my door. Shockingly, everything I needed for the swap showed up prior to the start of this weekend.

 

Today, we laid everything out and confirmed all the parts we needed were there. We made sure the trans had a 1.1 output ratio and the differential a 3.545 final drive. The girlfriend moved on to wire-wheeling rust/dirt off of the axles and hitting them with a coat of rust converter to clean them up, while I replaced the trans output oil seal and axles seals in the differential; still need to do the trans side axle seals. Then Emily's anxiously awaited new car showed up from Mississippi, which delayed us a bit as you can imagine. I also had a 135i at one point and loved it, so clearly she was meant for me. We returned to the garage a bit later to finish up the axles and build up the shifter. I had ordered a new Spec B. shifter rod, stay and lockout release cable but found (after taking the whole thing apart) the JDM Forester uses all the same parts, meaning I obviously don't need these. That should save ~$115 once I return them, meaning the whole swap cost just under $4k. I added Cobb's reverse lockout kit (which they say will only fit the STI shifter assembly, but clearly fit this Forester shifter) and a Cobb shift knob. Finally, test fit this on the back of the trans. and made sure all the gears could be engaged properly.

Had some time to put the STI differential in this afternoon. I was able to get both Spec B. axles into the hubs without disconnecting anything more than the 2 subframe braces that run underneath them. I also added a set of Whiteline differential inserts as a "while you're in there" modification.

My Brembo brake calipers and Rota Gravel wheels returned from the powder coater's this morning. Given the terrible condition these both were in when I dropped them off, I'm thrilled with the way they turned out. They really look brand new. Went with a hyper gloss silver for the calipers and a matte gunmetal for the wheels that matches my F-type. These seemed like safe options since I still haven't decided what color I want to paint it

Having veterans day off, I had a chance to spend some significant time in the garage today. Rebuilding the newly powder-coated brembos was the priority as they are the last part chassis that needs to be installed. Using the wire wheel, I first cleaned up all of the existing hardware for the front brakes. The split halves got lubed up with some spare brake fluid, and I installed a new brembo seals and dust boots. Then the halves were bolted together, not forgetting the o-rings, and I fitted some DBA XP650 brake pads along with all the existing hardware. After nailing down the front calipers, I repeated the process with the rears and finished the set.

It's amazing how fantastic these things look compared to how terrible they were when I got them. In all, it probably took me 5.5 hours to reassemble them properly, and they'll certainly never look this good again...

Over the last week and a half, I've been working on finalizing the brake system. It has gone about as poorly as you could imagine.

 

I started with the front calipers; ran a tap through the threads to clear out any residual powder coat. Threw them on, and the threads pulled out on the lower mount of both calipers... as you'd expect. The next day I bought a helicoil kit and some permanent threadlocker to repair them. After that, the front calipers went on just fine.

 

Moved on to the rear calipers, and found I had to clearance the trailing arms to make room for the adapter bracket bolt. I took my time as to remove as little material as possible; I don't like doing this, especially on an aluminum arm, but hopefully there won't be any problems. Rear calipers went on fine after that, and I spent about 2.5 hours bleeding the brakes with a pressure bleeder and some Motul 600 fluid. Pedal feels pretty good, and the brake system is done!

Edited November 26, 2019 by Chocoholic005

Do the STI Master and Brake Booster while you’re at it.