What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

So Pennsylvania has 15 year classic car status...I did just renew the registration back in November. I am highly debating re-registering as a classic. I have another car as daily.

 

Pros: Emissions exempt, one time registration fee that covers the life of car, it'd be cool to rock the classic tag

 

Cons: restricts me to limited use, unsure the insurance effect

PA is no longer issuing the actual classic plates. If you have one already (any of the different plates) you'll be allowed to keep it, but there won't be any different plates produced in the future. All they'll issue is the standard plate with a "Classic/Antique/etc" notation I believe, info via the DMV 3 months ago.

Oh my lord that's a thing? How much does something like that run?

 

 

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It's pretty reasonable in my opinion. It's $74.99 per seat belt plus the cost for you to ship them to MA. They gaurantee a 24 hour turn-around from the time they receive, lifetime warranty, and meets all federal certifications/requirements. They can even do custom orders.

https://www.safetyrestore.com/content/74-colored-seat-belts#SeatBeltColors

Ghetto-man's test of that would be to wire up the circuit as described (resistor from pin 1 to ground), and measure the voltage across the resistor as you spin the corresponding hub....

 

You could also wire the meter in series with the resistor and measure current, but if you're not familiar with that measurement, I would avoid it.

 

Have you ever replaced the axles? I've read about aftermarket ones causing issues with the wheel speed sensors occasionally, and sporadically.

Thanks, that's a good tip. I have replaced the axles but they are rebuilt OEMs so it shouldn't cause and issue. I was able to order a new front-right sensor for $30 shipped yesterday. If that doesn't solve it I'll try your spinning method.

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PA is no longer issuing the actual classic plates. If you have one already (any of the different plates) you'll be allowed to keep it, but there won't be any different plates produced in the future. All they'll issue is the standard plate with a "Classic/Antique/etc" notation I believe, info via the DMV 3 months ago.

Wait so a car can be registered "classic" but there is no way of knowing until you check the paper registration? That is sad for the flex but great from the stand point of driving it more than "limited use"

Wait so a car can be registered "classic" but there is no way of knowing until you check the paper registration? That is sad for the flex but great from the stand point of driving it more than "limited use"

What exactly is "limited use?" I'd be pretty grumpy if I rebuilt a cool classic and registered it and they told me I could only take it to church on Sundays.

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It's pretty reasonable in my opinion. It's $74.99 per seat belt plus the cost for you to ship them to MA. They gaurantee a 24 hour turn-around from the time they receive, lifetime warranty, and meets all federal certifications/requirements. They can even do custom orders.

 

https://www.safetyrestore.com/content/74-colored-seat-belts#SeatBeltColors

looks like a "ideaweb" post

I'm looking at the manual now and it says to use an oscilloscope to diagnose. I remember reading elsewhere on the forum that someone replaced one sensor and it cleared the other sensor codes as well. I thought I might start by buying one sensor and trying to isolate the problem that way, but each corner has a different part number. I have done ECU resets already.

My feeling is it's the front passenger sensor (at least) as I let the brakes hang on by that sensor by mistake.

This is theoretical but still...

It should be a simple Hall sensor. Meaning that you can cause it to close or open using a strong magnet with sensor out. The scope will show you signal as the wheel is turning at 2.5MPh where the magnet ring in the back of the wheel hub causes the sensor to react.

Take the sensor out of the hub and have a multimeter to measure the connectivity between pins on the connector - I believe it connects somewhere inside the engine bay. Then use a strong magnet (old speakers used to be my goto when I was a kid) and see if the circuit opens if it was closed, or closes if it was opened.

If you have OBDII adapter then the code may be tell you which sensor it is as well. I know SSM does.

Have you ever replaced the axles? I've read about aftermarket ones causing issues with the wheel speed sensors occasionally, and sporadically.

Legacy OEM are unlikely to do that due to design of outer cups, but the aftermarket ones may - if the sensor protective ring is too close it may rub on the sensor and tear through it with time. Eventually the conductors inside the sensor get exposed and are shorted more and more often, throwing codes with increasing frequency, especially in damp/rainy weather. Went through this issue with Tribeca which has OEM CV axles that cause protective rings to bent outward over time and rub on the ABS sensors.

What exactly is "limited use?" I'd be pretty grumpy if I rebuilt a cool classic and registered it and they told me I could only take it to church on Sundays.

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It says 1 day a week and no passenger use, but I see that as more more of a suggestion and especially if there is no longer special plates to designate classic.

I need to call my insurance and ask them how my car would get handled if it is tagged classic before I make my decision.

It says 1 day a week and no passenger use, but I see that as more more of a suggestion and especially if there is no longer special plates to designate classic.

 

I need to call my insurance and ask them how my car would get handled if it is tagged classic before I make my decision.

1 day a week is going to be limited mileage. Your insurance could deny your claim based on a number of parameters. I'd read the fine details before re-interpretating it

looks like a "ideaweb" post

Done!

Also thought I'd share for those interested. Moore Power had a 5MT blast plates group buy over the holidays. I reached out after their stated deadline and they sent me an invoice and stated a few spots were still avaiable. Current price for the blast plates is $269.

That's a great price.

I traded an extra d-shaped gt-spec steering wheel for mine.

done!

 

Also thought i'd share for those interested. Moore power had a 5mt blast plates group buy over the holidays. I reached out after their stated deadline and they sent me an invoice and stated a few spots were still avaiable. Current price for the blast plates is $269.

i'd also love to get their cast twinscroll divorced downpipe flange, but can't justify that when i have a perfectly fine DP already. probably wouldn't get it all to fit under the OEM covers anyways.

What exactly is "limited use?" I'd be pretty grumpy if I rebuilt a cool classic and registered it and they told me I could only take it to church on Sundays.

 

 

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In Missouri Classic /historic car plates have restrictions.

1. 
   
2. Be 25 years old or older;
   
3. Owned solely as a collector’s item; and
   
4. Used for exhibition and educational purposes.
   

To and from exhibitions and educational events without any mileage limitation;

1. 
   
2. To repair facilities within a 100 mile limit; and
   
3. Up to 1,000 miles per year for personal use.
   

It's not really worth it if you like to drive, or built it to drive and not be a garage queen. I was not able to find the classic car at all.

Jeez those are harsh. I remember thinking the classic plate was really cool growing up in Florida, idk if it had all those restrictions but you always saw people in beaters driving around. And we didn't have safety or emissions as is.

At this point I just want a black plate with white letters. We almost got them in utah. Maybe next legislative session they'll revive it.

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Dealer told me my LCA bushings were torn.. so I ordered a pair of aluminum LCAs from Rock Auto.

Is there anything else I should do while underneath replacing the LCAs?

Rumor has it that the lca bushings in the mevotech arms don't last long a year or two. If you got the money and time, pop those bushings out now for whiteline ones.

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I don't see mas for the 05 lgt. I saw mas elsewhere for an 04? Sure you got the right parts? What's the part number?

From what I've gathered, it seems like the lower control arm rear bushings just wear out easily and are not easy to change when it's on the car. I'm sure others have better info though

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yeah I bought them about 9 months ago.. I didn't have a garage to work on my car so it sat in my pile for 9 months..

MAS CB72084

MAS CB72083

I love my summer wheels (raijin w/ 245/40/18 z2) but this car drives so much nicer on 17” with narrower tires. I really need to invest in a good set of lightweight 17’s with sticky rubber.

How's the fitment with the Raijins and those tires? Any rubbing at all?