Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Clutch Replacement advice


Recommended Posts

Is the clutch fork upgrade necessary? mine does not look cracked or anything so it should be fine I assume.

 

I would replaced it. If you're using a stronger aftermarket clutch, get an aftermarket fork. If you're using a stock clutch or stock type clutch, just buy a new OEM one. It sucks have the original clutch fork fail and have to pull the motor over a $25 part failing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

you may end up needing a sleeve for the transmission input shaft just fyi

 

I went ahead and ordered that when a couple other members mentioned it.

 

Things have escalated quickly with this car........ My dad sent me a 2005 Legacy GT on Craigslist for $2k that basically needed a turbo put on. I took a look and the car is good besides a very leaky engine and a Chinese vf40. Ended up getting the whole car for $1500.....

 

The plan is to swap all the Legacy GT suspension bits over to my Outback since it is already tuned and it has the Sport Sharp which I really like.

 

Now my transmission had the dreaded grind from 3rd to 4th, but it was not horrible. This Legacy GT transmission is in waaaay better shape though. After fussing about with the chinese turbo and random parts from the garage we managed to get it running long enough to figure out if the engine was fucked or not (its not, just very leaky still) and to see how the transmission was going. It is much smoother than my 09. So the plan is to also swap that. I checked the Rallispec chart and the gear ratios are the same, but the final drive is not. The XT has a final drive of 4.444 and the GT has a final drive of 4.111. My thought is that I should be able to get away with just swapping both the transmission and rear diff and I should be ok. Will there be a noticeable driving difference between the 4.444 and the 4.111 and would I need a re-tune perhaps?

 

 

Rallispec chart:

 

https://rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission%20ID%20Chart_Public.pdf

Edited by boneskid1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Final drive is in the trans and you just need to match the trans and rear diff so no biggie. Grab both and you'll be good.

 

Your gearing will be a little different. If I remember right you get slightly more acceleration and higher rpm at highway cruising. You won't need to retune anything though so no worries.

 

Check the drive shafts of both. If one has less play use that one. They tend to get play over time in the center support bearing.

 

If you want to be REALLY tedious take a look at the lowering your outback sticky and grab all the screws and spacers and whatever you need to correct the steering angles. You'll for sure want the upper rear lateral links and the rear bump stops.

 

Also swapping the steering rack from the outback to an lgt one was a great decision. Feels so much better. However take your time and legit be focused on keeping your steering wheel straight.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Final drive is in the trans and you just need to match the trans and rear diff so no biggie. Grab both and you'll be good.

 

Your gearing will be a little different. If I remember right you get slightly more acceleration and higher rpm at highway cruising. You won't need to retune anything though so no worries.

 

Check the drive shafts of both. If one has less play use that one. They tend to get play over time in the center support bearing.

 

If you want to be REALLY tedious take a look at the lowering your outback sticky and grab all the screws and spacers and whatever you need to correct the steering angles. You'll for sure want the upper rear lateral links and the rear bump stops.

 

Also swapping the steering rack from the outback to an lgt one was a great decision. Feels so much better. However take your time and legit be focused on keeping your steering wheel straight.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

That was the plan, to use all the lower suspension brackets etc and remove the subframe spacers ( I am on coilovers already, but for the sake of the suspension geometry). I might use the steering rack, but it looks like it might be leaking heavily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FWIW, the center carrier bearing support is different between a legacy and outback.

 

yeah I have a whole complete Legacy GT I will be using the parts off of. I read through the XT to GT parts thread a few times to understand what I have to swap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Now my transmission had the dreaded grind from 3rd to 4th, but it was not horrible. This Legacy GT transmission is in waaaay better shape though. After fussing about with the chinese turbo and random parts from the garage we managed to get it running long enough to figure out if the engine was fucked or not (its not, just very leaky still) and to see how the transmission was going. It is much smoother than my 09. So the plan is to also swap that. I checked the Rallispec chart and the gear ratios are the same, but the final drive is not. The XT has a final drive of 4.444 and the GT has a final drive of 4.111. My thought is that I should be able to get away with just swapping both the transmission and rear diff and I should be ok. Will there be a noticeable driving difference between the 4.444 and the 4.111 and would I need a re-tune perhaps?

 

 

Rallispec chart:

 

https://rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission%20ID%20Chart_Public.pdf

 

I'm running a 4.44 Outback tranny/rear diff in my LGT.

It's a direct fit, just keep your driveshaft from the OBXT, the Legacy carrier bearing is shorter than the Outback to match the LGT suspension.

 

The difference wasn't that noticeable to me. There is a little more accel and a little higher RPM. Probably worse MPG, but I'm in it all the time anyway so I don't really notice that difference. My 4.44 has about 100k miles and is noisier than my 4.11 with 200k, but I think that's just my two trannies.

 

So for your experience, I would expect the reverse. Little less acceleration but slightly lower RPM and slightly higher MPG all things being equal.

Edited by Infosecdad
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm running a 4.44 Outback tranny/rear diff in my LGT.

It's a direct fit, just keep your driveshaft from the OBXT, the Legacy carrier bearing is shorter than the Outback to match the LGT suspension.

 

The difference wasn't that noticeable to me. There is a little more accel and a little higher RPM. Probably worse MPG, but I'm in it all the time anyway so I don't really notice that difference. My 4.44 has about 100k miles and is noisier than my 4.11 with 200k, but I think that's just my two trannies.

 

So for your experience, I would expect the reverse. Little less acceleration but slightly lower RPM and slightly higher MPG all things being equal.

 

Awesome! that will actually be better for highway driving then I hope. I am changing everything over to LGT, the rear upper control arms, transmission cradle, driveshaft, front lower arm brackets, LGT Brakes all of it. I have a KTA124 kit going on the rear too, with a Cusco 21mm rear swaybar. The car is going to be a whole different beast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you keeping the stock outback size tires or going to the smaller lgt size? I found a thread detailing what's needed to correct the speedo last night. Also if that's the case then the difference in the gearing is moot. My understanding was the gearing difference was due to tire size variation.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you keeping the stock outback size tires or going to the smaller lgt size? I found a thread detailing what's needed to correct the speedo last night. Also if that's the case then the difference in the gearing is moot. My understanding was the gearing difference was due to tire size variation.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Its funny your bring that up. After lowering the car I went from the factory XT tire size, 225/55/17 to a 225/45/17. Cause the 225/55 was just too much sidewall for a lowered car. So my speedo was probably already off. I will take the brake module swap into consideration since I will already have one available to me...... provided the plug is the same between and 05 and an 09

 

 

Also can I change the title of this thread? at this point it might as well be my build thread lol. Once I get some pictures of the process going of course.

 

 

In other news my shipment of all the parts I was planning to just throw on the Outback arrived. Obviously the parts car has changed that timeline a little bit.

Edited by boneskid1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'd have to reach out to a mod but I'm not sure you can.

 

I haven't read through that whole thread but I'd imagine you could find out by checking part numbers of it's not in that thread. Lemme us know what you find as I have an 08 so same issue. It's way down the pipeline for me though.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'd have to reach out to a mod but I'm not sure you can.

 

I haven't read through that whole thread but I'd imagine you could find out by checking part numbers of it's not in that thread. Lemme us know what you find as I have an 08 so same issue. It's way down the pipeline for me though.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I will check on the plug this weekend. Teardown on the Red LGT begins tomorrow morning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My dad sent me a 2005 Legacy GT on Craigslist for $2k that basically needed a turbo put on. I took a look and the car is good besides a very leaky engine and a Chinese vf40. Ended up getting the whole car for $1500.....

 

After fussing about with the chinese turbo and random parts from the garage we managed to get it running long enough to figure out if the engine was fucked or not (its not, just very leaky still)

 

You bought a classic used 4th Legacy GT 'that just needs a new turbo' which really is just another YNASB. Fortunately you paid the going price for Legacy GT a bad motor. The original turbo probably blew and the owner slapped in a Chinese turbo thinking (hoping/praying) it might still work. The inside of the motor is probably a glitter bomb of bearing material.

 

Hopefully it is a Legacy GT sedan not a 5MT GT Wagon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You bought a classic used 4th Legacy GT 'that just needs a new turbo' which really is just another YNASB. Fortunately you paid the going price for Legacy GT a bad motor. The original turbo probably blew and the owner slapped in a Chinese turbo thinking (hoping/praying) it might still work. The inside of the motor is probably a glitter bomb of bearing material.

 

Hopefully it is a Legacy GT sedan not a 5MT GT Wagon.

 

It is a 5mt Wagon....... It is in very rough shape. It is probably saveable but not without a decent chunk of change. the Interior is pretty destroyed and I think there is mold in the trunk.... the smell is not so great. It you want the shell for some reason let me know. Combined with the engine maybe being bad, it was a better move to put the parts on my equally rare manual 2009 Outback XT

 

I should add that if my XT had not already been tuned and gone through for mechanical issues. I probably would have kept the lgt. But being that I poured alot of money into the XT already this was a no brainer.

Edited by boneskid1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
well, when i came to tell us about your vehicle, ... carbon or single?:confused:

 

Sorry I don't understand your question.

 

I have been running a 2+ for years, its what they recommend for these cars. I haven't read your HP level or goals ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

thought maybe I should update this. The clutch is good. It holds the tuned power just fine. It is a little jumpy? jittery? compared to the one the car came with, but it is definitely better. The LGT swap went great. the car handles so much better. I need to have a professional alignment sorted out though. I had someone do it on a alignment rack and it is ok, but taking corners feels weird. like the ass end is pushing me more... I have no idea.

 

 

 

Sadly the ABS controller from the Legacy has a completely different plug than the Outback. So I will need to find one of those from a newer Legacy perhaps. Not sure if I can just use one from a sedan either..... I assume the JDM legacy wagons that the US never got had ABS?

 

Additionally I put an aftermarket steering wheel in the car, but screwed myself doing so as I do not have cruise control. I picked up a cruise switch from a imprezea wagon since it is also 5pin like the 08-09 outback, but I cannot make heads or tails of what wire needs to go where, so that should be fun..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use