What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Did a full Brembo swap on my buddies wagon yesterday. Fronts were easy as expected. Rears were a pain as expected. Overall not bad. Pedal is a little spongy but the brakes bite really well. Going to do another bleed today and ordered the STI booster and master for it. Nice little Friday.

Spent all day with Nonamedude melting our brains taking a crap ton of measurements and popping a piston. 5 cracks in the ring lands, bore is bulged .0015 in an isolated circumferential region on top of a .0004 allowable roundness and .0006 cylindricity. Known good bore checked much closer to spec. All values after temperature correction and outlier elimination. I'll write up something in the build thread tomorrow. Got some thinking to do.

Interesting that cylinder 2 came out closer in the end after calculating temperature in. I mostly stood around and watched this all day haha. Good to be doing car stuff though.

It's more that temperature correction wasn't enough - there's two circumferential locations at top and middle axial position of the cylinder that bulge out, even after adjustment. Without those, #4 measures very close to #2. Maybe I missed something that I'll catch tomorrow, but that seems like a reeeeaaaaally specific miss Edited November 29, 2020 by awfulwaffle

Picked up a 2011 3.6R Limited Outback for the family yesterday.

 

It's basically new. Almost zero wear on it, just amazing.

 

Remeasured w/ piston removed, bore now measures in spec. Characterized scatter for the measurement method in both cylinders also, comparable scatter with similar means. Wear marks on the skirt and a deformed intermediate compression ring indicate that the piston may have been deformed enough to load into the bore a bit. Crazy stuff. I'm gonna try dropping in a replacement Type RA piston for science.

 

Someone guilt me into doing a proper writeup.

Interesting that cylinder 2 came out closer in the end after calculating temperature in. I mostly stood around and watched this all day haha. Good to be doing car stuff though.

 

Behemoth approved.

 

I put back in my rear seats finally. It's nice to have a car with an interior again after all the shenanigans.

Remeasured w/ piston removed, bore now measures in spec. Characterized scatter for the measurement method in both cylinders also, comparable scatter with similar means. Wear marks on the skirt and a deformed intermediate compression ring indicate that the piston may have been deformed enough to load into the bore a bit. Crazy stuff. I'm gonna try dropping in a replacement Type RA piston for science.

 

Someone guilt me into doing a proper writeup.

 

If you really cared about helping people out your would create your own thread giving it a title that people will recognize in the future.

 

May be in the engine build forum...(?)

If you really cared about helping people out your would create your own thread giving it a title that people will recognize in the future.

 

May be in the engine build forum...(?)

 

 

I'll harass once all the findings are done and he has a running engine if he hasn't.

 

But basically I think for 99% of people, measuring the bore on these blocks is an exercise in futility. We were needing to control temp and correct for variations and most fluctuations were less than 2 degrees f. The spec is just so tight you need really good tools.

 

Or just buy a new block lol.

 

 

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Yep, one of the main lessons for me was that you need a VERY nice bore gage or decades of experience with getting consistent measurements with T gages in order to check our bores in a time-efficient manner. The former requires money, and the latter requires time.

 

We defaulted to a statistical approach with tons of data gathered to get some basis by which to compare a good and bad cylinder. The average diameters did come out very close to what

a Standard B bore should be, so that's encouraging. I think overall, took around 500 data points this weekend while gridding out the cylinders.

Snagged an EWG FP Blue for 10% off over the weekend. Holy header and turbo are set - just need the Tial and new DP. Cannot wait until Spring

So i'm committed to fixing at least two cars back to running condition. Cyber monday deals were too good to pass up.

 

still trying to piece together a 5mt rebuild kit. Got a seals & gasket kut, but not the bushings. The failed center diff is just stupid money 400-700.

What're you using to split the shafts? Or are you leaving them alone since just the center diff was bad?

So i'm committed to fixing at least two cars back to running condition. Cyber monday deals were too good to pass up.

 

still trying to piece together a 5mt rebuild kit. Got a seals & gasket kut, but not the bushings. The failed center diff is just stupid money 400-700.

Buy from partsouq.com. It's far cheaper even with international shipping.

So i'm committed to fixing at least two cars back to running condition. Cyber monday deals were too good to pass up.

 

still trying to piece together a 5mt rebuild kit. Got a seals & gasket kut, but not the bushings. The failed center diff is just stupid money 400-700.

 

Yeah, $600, been there done that. Let's not forget the fluid takes out the bearings too. My center diff leaked. The Motul gear 300 turned gray in color.

What're you using to split the shafts? Or are you leaving them alone since just the center diff was bad?

 

Currently waiting on delivery of a 35mm socket so it can be machined to fit the unique-to-subaru nut on the main shaft.

 

There's a collection of "special" tools to work on the shafts. Hopefully I can skip that expensive step.

 

I was going to leave it all alone until having a closer look at some wear surfaces. Its not going to go another 100k

I brought home the winter hooptie did a quick oil change on it, 345,xxx kms on it and she keeps going. After I spent the weekend doing a full JDM front end swap for a friend, it's a 2.0gt bumper with a really nice lip. The washer nozzle lights are ready for the 2nd pump with the hoses routed...

 

Can anyone identify the lip??

Currently waiting on delivery of a 35mm socket so it can be machined to fit the unique-to-subaru nut on the main shaft.

 

There's a collection of "special" tools to work on the shafts. Hopefully I can skip that expensive step.

 

I was going to leave it all alone until having a closer look at some wear surfaces. Its not going to go another 100k

 

 

When I looked at it, the most important one was the flat ground plate used as a reference when setting lash. I believe it was 600 bucks or so to buy if you could find it. I'd love to hear another solution that doesn't require having a plate cut and ground.

So i'm committed to fixing at least two cars back to running condition. Cyber monday deals were too good to pass up.

 

still trying to piece together a 5mt rebuild kit. Got a seals & gasket kut, but not the bushings. The failed center diff is just stupid money 400-700.

 

can you rebuild my 5 speed too? lol

 

Im hoping to score a 6 speed trans after this winter possibly. if not Ill go the rebuild route. i cant let her go just yet. the e85 is just way too much fun and watching peoples reactions when ewg screams especially in an old man brown legacy is priceless

I brought home the winter hooptie did a quick oil change on it, 345,xxx kms on it and she keeps going. After I spent the weekend doing a full JDM front end swap for a friend, it's a 2.0gt bumper with a really nice lip. The washer nozzle lights are ready for the 2nd pump with the hoses routed...

 

Can anyone identify the lip??

 

It's a Subaru OEM/JDM under spoiler (E2410AG000). I have the same bumper and lip which will be my winter setup when the JDM facelift gets done. I'm curious to see how it will look with my S402 fenders which probably won't be until next winter.

 

Also think this bumper would look halfway decent with the front bumper side vents off the '08-'14 STI's.

 

Here's a link to most of the JDM factory options. Well maybe EDM since it's in English https://www.subaru.pl/docs/accessories/08MY_LegacyOutback_Accessory.pdf

Edited December 1, 2020 by DoctorDaveLGT
Added info

can you rebuild my 5 speed too? lol

 

Im hoping to score a 6 speed trans after this winter possibly. if not Ill go the rebuild route. i cant let her go just yet. the e85 is just way too much fun and watching peoples reactions when ewg screams especially in an old man brown legacy is priceless

 

If I get this one back together correctly, I might be willing to rebuild another. Have a couple 6mt in need of rebuild, too. Getting the range of parts to set the lash correctly means buying less parts than the valvetrain bucket madness.

Currently waiting on delivery of a 35mm socket so it can be machined to fit the unique-to-subaru nut on the main shaft.

 

There's a collection of "special" tools to work on the shafts. Hopefully I can skip that expensive step.

 

I was going to leave it all alone until having a closer look at some wear surfaces. Its not going to go another 100k

 

The grinding wheel and a bucket of water worked wonders for making a "thinwall" socket. Wrap a rag around the gears and a quick pop on the air gun, nut came off easy. First set of parts slid off easily. Getting the rest off the shaft is problematic. Bent the first bearing splitter...

I may have gone too deep in the disassembly of my rack and pinion, but I can only learn from here.

Turns out my rack was only ever leaking from the feed/return lines and the pinion housing. The seals in the rack were fine, but the grease looks nasty. Like I said I have gone too far so I am committed to rebuilding the whole rack. Made my own subaru spec Special Tool to make it easier. If all goes well, I'll have a write up...if not, I'll just act like nothing happened and buy a replacement

I may have gone too deep in the disassembly of my rack and pinion, but I can only learn from here.

Turns out my rack was only ever leaking from the feed/return lines and the pinion housing. The seals in the rack were fine, but the grease looks nasty. Like I said I have gone too far so I am committed to rebuilding the whole rack. Made my own subaru spec Special Tool to make it easier. If all goes well, I'll have a write up...if not, I'll just act like nothing happened and buy a replacement

 

If you're happy rebuilding, might as well buy my spare '15 STi rack and rebuild that....

 

Spent many many many hours the past couple of days (I'm up at 3AM on a Tuesday....) working on some of the ROM hacking stuff for live tuning. Still a ways away, but I think I've made some legitimate progress.

 

Deets here: https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=14144&start=30

This was actually a week ago and not today, but I picked up an 06 LGT in decent condition and immediately proceeded to put some Spec B wheels on it.