Any help please

I'm the proud owner of a 1998 1/2 Subaru Legacy l wagon when my problem is that it will run and drive normal until it gets warm and than will bog down like it's not getting gas or spark. I've replaced the fuel filter and coils and done a tune up. Not sure what else it could be maybe fuel pump but idk thanks for any help...

This was an issue with my toyota but I haven't had this issue with my legacy yet. But in my case I had to adjust my TPS AKA Throttle position sensor.

I would say it's the coil pack. I've seen and had it happen a lot that they act normal when cold but once they heat up they start to act up. Did you replace it with a new or used unit?

does it have a problem re-starting when warm?

does it run crappy when warm all the time or only under acceleration,

or maybe going up hill under power?

 

when cold it is running in ''open loop'',

fuel air timing are adjusted for easy starting and running in ''most conditions''.

once it warms up it goes to ''closed loop'',

it sets fuel, air, and timing based on readings from the sensors.

one of you sensor reads is probably throwing it off.

 

i doubt it is the TPS, unless it is disconnected.

they do not get out of whack unless you mess with them.

have you done any recent service or repairs that could cause this problem?

 

do youy have any CEL trouble codes?

I work at Napa. So the coil is new and it runs fine till it get warm than it will bog down and half the time die but it starts back up no prob. But when it's bogging down I can have the throttle all the way to the floor and its like im not even touching it. And no cel At all. It does need some exhaust work I ordered a new muffler and im going to have a local shop check the rest from front to back and fix what's needed... So I guess ill see what happens there.

id check fuel pressure first, then go from there. with no codes being set, its hard to say where to start on that. break it down to the big 3, fuel, air, spark and go from there.

 

could be a sensor crapping out after it goes into open tune. my MAF sensor was bad and didnt give a code, caused all kinds of stalls and idle issues before we tossed a new one in to see what would happen.

Depending on how high in miles the car is I would throw a fuel pump at it for $120 with the year warranty since our cars are so simple to replace them with the trap door under the rear seat. I had similar issues a year ago and it was the fuel pump.

does it have a problem re-starting when warm?

does it run crappy when warm all the time or only under acceleration,

or maybe going up hill under power?

 

when cold it is running in ''open loop'',

fuel air timing are adjusted for easy starting and running in ''most conditions''.

once it warms up it goes to ''closed loop'',

it sets fuel, air, and timing based on readings from the sensors.

one of you sensor reads is probably throwing it off.

 

i doubt it is the TPS, unless it is disconnected.

they do not get out of whack unless you mess with them.

have you done any recent service or repairs that could cause this problem?

 

do youy have any CEL trouble codes?

 

what he said. If it runs fine "cold" and sucks when warm, I'd be pointing at a closed loop issue. Usually a bad O2 sensor or coolant temp sensor.

Well I replaced the tps the old ones spring was really weak compared to the new one. Than I pulled and cleaned the mass air flow sensor it seems got its get up and go now and didn't die yesterday. Though I started it about 20 min ago and I just heard it die so i guess im going to try some of your suggestions next. But it's improving. I'll keep you all updated. I have to go to work.

There's been a bit of a update was working on my car and dropped a screw driver that than hit the Mass air flow sensor... Car shut off so I ordered a new one from work I'll let you all know how things go

Replaced the maf sensor can ran great than today I get off work start my car and it appears either my clutch, pressure plate or transmission (syncro) crapped out I drove about 30 miles with only 3 and 5th gear and I had to Rev the engine to get it to go into gear... Oh yea pressing the clutch doesn't seem to disengage it the rpms dont drop. Any ideas?

check your clutch fliud?

Yea though as far as I know the clutch runs of master cylinder for brakes.

you either have a tiny clutch master for the hydraulic clutch or a cable for the cable clutch systems. my 96 outback is a cable, my 99 forester is hydraulic. neither work off the brake master as far as i know, not even sure how that would work.

"L" Wagon should be the 2.2 and a CABLE clutch. If it's an Outback/GT w/the 2.5 it's the Hydraulic.

 

There is a Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder for the 2.5 clutch (yes, it's confusing). It has its own reservoir....near the brake M/C.

 

Edit: I'd bet you still need the CTS/coolan temp sensor.

Well my mechanic tore it apart. It's the transmission. Any idea which one I need?