What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

I have a full stock build. All I've done is remove the milk jug and add group n mounts. Now I've always driven econo box crap cans, but if you told me this was the most performance I'd get, I'd be happy.

That said, I'm pretty sure my e30 had less nvh until I removed the carpet.

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Replaced my year old cylinder 2 coil pack with a new coil pack that I had laying around. Cylinder 2 misfire didn’t go away. Inspected spark plug and it seemed in good shape with the proper gap.

Onto swapping injectors. If that doesn’t do it then it’s time for a compression check. . This may be the end for the old LGT stock block at 126k miles.

Anyone heard from Mike at Tuning Alliance? I haven't had any communication since the end of May and want to be sure he's alright.

I'm connected on FB with him, nothing out of the ordinary (meaning he's likely crazy busy as usual).

Mike normally response well to IM's.

 

Yes he's a busy guy.

Of course I just got an email from him this afternoon. Thanks for the replies.

Wasn't me this time, I have been to busy to reach out to him to remind him.

He really is a great guy to talk to if you ever meet him. I feel lucky to live so close to him if I ever need his services.

New steering rack came in on Wednesday, and finally had the time to work on the car tonight. Got the LGT all buttoned up, but haven't taken it for a drive yet. Planning on doing some more break-in miles bright and early tomorrow morning on the way to the airfield (where I'll be changing a tire on one of the club gliders).

Hoping everything is smooth sailing from now! Next up is a front-end alignment, though I'm not too worried about it since the tires are 3-4 season old RE-71Rs that are pretty poorly worn from poor alignment/suspension my first year or two of autocross.

Looking very clean, sir

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New steering rack came in on Wednesday, and finally had the time to work on the car tonight. Got the LGT all buttoned up, but haven't taken it for a drive yet. Planning on doing some more break-in miles bright and early tomorrow morning on the way to the airfield (where I'll be changing a tire on one of the club gliders).

 

Hoping everything is smooth sailing from now! Next up is a front-end alignment, though I'm not too worried about it since the tires are 3-4 season old RE-71Rs that are pretty poorly worn from poor alignment/suspension my first year or two of autocross.

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I'm doing the STI steering rack upgrade this weekend as well but waiting for the Cusco brace to come in. I probably let the old one go too long, very noisy pump so I'm thinking I'll replace the pump too. I don't want to somehow damage the new rack with a bad pump if that's even possible. Supposedly part # is 34430AG051 for an 08 Spec B. Simple Part lists the other cheaper OEM as working as well but when I called dealer they mentioned the more expensive pump above. If I don't do the pump now, because it was really the rack that was leaking, would I be causing any damage to the new rack?

 

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I would think that if the leak was at the pump you would have a few day's as long as you keep an eye on the PS fluid level to replace the pump with one from the auto parts store. My NAPA PS pump has been great for a few years now.

Make sure you get the U shaped crush gasket for the side of the pump.

Did you also get the STI solid steering U joint ? I just got one off ebay for $47.00. Fit on nicely but is a little short on the top end where it slides on the column. Others on here say that is normal and nothing to worry about.

There's a thread about currently in the Tech Forums.

I'm doing the STI steering rack upgrade this weekend as well but waiting for the Cusco brace to come in. I probably let the old one go too long, very noisy pump so I'm thinking I'll replace the pump too. I don't want to somehow damage the new rack with a bad pump if that's even possible. Supposedly part # is 34430AG051 for an 08 Spec B. Simple Part lists the other cheaper OEM as working as well but when I called dealer they mentioned the more expensive pump above. If I don't do the pump now, because it was really the rack that was leaking, would I be causing any damage to the new rack?

 

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I'm not an authority on the matter, but I can't imagine the rack would be damaged even if it were completely dry. This isn't true for the pump, of course.

I'm doing the STI steering rack upgrade this weekend as well but waiting for the Cusco brace to come in. I probably let the old one go too long, very noisy pump so I'm thinking I'll replace the pump too. I don't want to somehow damage the new rack with a bad pump if that's even possible. Supposedly part # is 34430AG051 for an 08 Spec B. Simple Part lists the other cheaper OEM as working as well but when I called dealer they mentioned the more expensive pump above. If I don't do the pump now, because it was really the rack that was leaking, would I be causing any damage to the new rack?

 

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Shoud be np to use existing pump. If you want some peace of mind, I know some will say these pumps are not rebuildable/serviceable but this simply isn't true. Unless your pump suffers a fatal mechanical failure (run bone dry etc) you can purchase the necessary parts to service it yourself, usually just the o-rings are needed. Might be a good time to do it while you've got everything disconnected to do the rack, and only takes an hour or so. PS pumps are deceptively simple pieces of hardware, no wizardry to be found here. That being said, if you do service it don't let a single grain of dirt inside that thing.

Has the VDC issue with the newer sti rack been sorted out? I'm not following the thread.

There's no VDC issue on the Legacy, only on the Outbacks. But even there, it has been "solved" if you're capable with some electronics work. There's a link in the thread to someone who programmed a microcontroller to intercept the messages sent from the steering angle sensor and scaled the values before re-transmitting them to the CANbus. This is the "right" solution in that everything will work as intended. With the LGT, it's technically not correct to use the STi rack without doing the same modification, but since the original and the STi rack aren't too far apart in gearing, the VDC system doesn't throw any error codes. I wonder if there's a way to just re-program the car's VDC logic instead of having to intercept the communications, but it's likely not worth the effort.

Speaking of that, since I installed the new rack, I've managed to get the steering wheel even less centered than before, and now I get a VDC light after some amount of time driving. Likely because the car's going straight but the wheel is quite a ways from center. Going to do another 50mi or so drive today before my 2nd oil change, probably will try and re-center it while doing that tonight.

Shoud be np to use existing pump. If you want some peace of mind, I know some will say these pumps are not rebuildable/serviceable but this simply isn't true. Unless your pump suffers a fatal mechanical failure (run bone dry etc) you can purchase the necessary parts to service it yourself, usually just the o-rings are needed. Might be a good time to do it while you've got everything disconnected to do the rack, and only takes an hour or so. PS pumps are deceptively simple pieces of hardware, no wizardry to be found here. That being said, if you do service it don't let a single grain of dirt inside that thing.

Yup. See here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2127419

There's no VDC issue on the Legacy, only on the Outbacks. But even there, it has been "solved" if you're capable with some electronics work. There's a link in the thread to someone who programmed a microcontroller to intercept the messages sent from the steering angle sensor and scaled the values before re-transmitting them to the CANbus. This is the "right" solution in that everything will work as intended. With the LGT, it's technically not correct to use the STi rack without doing the same modification, but since the original and the STi rack aren't too far apart in gearing, the VDC system doesn't throw any error codes. I wonder if there's a way to just re-program the car's VDC logic instead of having to intercept the communications, but it's likely not worth the effort.

 

Speaking of that, since I installed the new rack, I've managed to get the steering wheel even less centered than before, and now I get a VDC light after some amount of time driving. Likely because the car's going straight but the wheel is quite a ways from center. Going to do another 50mi or so drive today before my 2nd oil change, probably will try and re-center it while doing that tonight.

 

 

 

Yup. See here: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2127419

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Speaking of that, since I installed the new rack, I've managed to get the steering wheel even less centered than before, and now I get a VDC light after some amount of time driving. Likely because the car's going straight but the wheel is quite a ways from center.

lol I remember replacing steering racks on Toyota, screwing this up then got taught by one of the senior tech on how to best prep the rack so that never happens again.

And that solution was...?

Edit: Here is the video.

Does this leak look like the power steering leak that is fixed by replacing the washer?

In other news, I wacked my starter with a hammer and was able to finally move it out of my driveway. If I'm going to open the hood to replace the starter, I might as well pay attention to that power steering leak i've been ignoring...

Yeah, the o-ring for the PS pump should fix that.

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-power-steering-o-ring-247949.html

And that solution was...?

Sorry, What rhino said is correct, you go full one side and turn the rack I think 1.5 or 2.5 turns and that was middle, then mark. I do not remember the specifics.

Does this leak look like the power steering leak that is fixed by replacing the washer?

 

 

In other news, I wacked my starter with a hammer and was able to finally move it out of my driveway. If I'm going to open the hood to replace the starter, I might as well pay attention to that power steering leak i've been ignoring...

a good way to know how much you are leaking is to clean it all with brake cleaner, let it dry and after that you will be able to tell how excessive the leak is. Or just check your reservoir often and fill as needed.

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Yeah, the o-ring for the PS pump should fix that.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-power-steering-o-ring-247949.html

Awesome, thanks for the link.

The steering rack on my wagon is leaking underneath, but it's so minor it doesn't even show in fluid loss. Otherwise, I've never had a PS leak that wasn't fixed by replacing the top tank o-ring, which I've done three times. Keep an extra laying around these days.

That makes it sound like it's worth it to give it a go. Thanks.

a good way to know how much you are leaking is to clean it all with brake cleaner, let it dry and after that you will be able to tell how excessive the leak is. Or just check your reservoir often and fill as needed.

Oh, it's bad... i have to add to the reservoir every few months... It ends up all over the Primitive skid plate though, and not on my driveway, so .... I've been annoyed, not angry at it. I've been hesitant to check it since it's manageable, but now that i don't need it daily it's worth a try.

I'll order the o-rings and let y'all know when i get back up off my ass to work on it. Thank!

Installed 3/4" saggy butt spacers w/ extended hardware. I thought it was going to be too tall, but it turns out it was just right. Will snap a pic when I get the chance.

Also installed a 2" hitch and that thing scrapes *everywhere*. Wth.

Well, knocked out a long overdue project and feeling really good about how it came out. I gutted the alcantara door card inserts from the Spec B panels and put them in the JDM door panels. Also had to swap the front window/lock switch face plates onto the correct sides. This part of the project was not very fun. It's not super difficult to do but you have to be careful and very tedious when removing the plastic rivets or you destroy the possibility of securing the mounting point with interior screws when putting it back to together.

Threw in the additional mirror tweeter housings and the 3" mid component speaker mounts that madrig made out of carbon. While each door card was off I swapped in the OEM speakers from the Spec B just because they were in visibly better shape. No real difference in sound from the speakers but I also added sound deadening material to the inner & outer shells of every door and the cabin in noticeably quieter and music sounds more clean.

Now I just need to upgrade and add more speakers, get the rear re-upholstered to match the STI seats and try to source an EDM console. Going to be swapping in the updated dash panels and center console from the Spec B for the time though.