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Ken's 2016 Legacy 2.5i Premium Mods


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That actually would of been nice still had to make the holes in the back the piece doesn’t line up with anything to clip too

 

 

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HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

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That actually would of been nice still had to make the holes in the back the piece doesn’t line up with anything to clip too

 

 

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HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

You could of asked and I could of sent you pics of the rear bracket as well..

 

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I do have a question for you then have you done the big 3? I still need to run the wire from the alternator and don’t want to hack the plastic clip. Love to see some pics of it installed

 

 

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

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I do have a question for you then have you done the big 3? I still need to run the wire from the alternator and don’t want to hack the plastic clip. Love to see some pics of it installed

 

 

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HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

Actually No.. I'm going with a Bigger Alternator from Apex Alternators.. They build them per your specs.. They ask how many watts your pushing on yiur stereo any upgraded lights and then they determine what size..

 

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Yeah I saw yours and checked them out but even with that it wouldn’t be bad to add the extra wire anyways can’t hurt

 

 

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HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

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When I did the install on my intake I realized the heat shield wouldnt be as secure as I would of liked. It would move slightly which would rub against the front air dam. Found an angle bracket in the basement yesterday so a quick drilling and a random bolt nice and secure. its a 4" angle bracket if anyone has the same intake.

 

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In the battle against the rattle today I added Dynomat to the trunk lid liner. It helps a bit and luckily the trunk still can pop open. You can feel the difference in weight though when opening fully. While I was at it I went ahead and changed my license plate lights to white leds.

 

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Decided to do something cool to my car today... I added Blue Led strips behind my side mirrors. I used the power wire for the approach mirror which I don't have. They come on the same as your dome light when you unlock the car or open the door. Tuff to take a good pick with a street light so close. You unclip the mirror with a flathead from the bottom. Hidden in the back is the plug, unwrapped it to find a white and black plug. The white plus is the one, made a jumper that went to my voltmeter and figured out Orange is pos, and Blue neg. Soldered in the light covered with heatshrink that has glue inside to make waterproof. Wrapped it all up stuck em in and they work great.

 

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Decided to do something cool to my car today... I added Blue Led strips behind my side mirrors. I used the power wire for the approach mirror which I don't have. They come on the same as your dome light when you unlock the car or open the door. Tuff to take a good pick with a street light so close. You unclip the mirror with a flathead from the bottom. Hidden in the back is the plug, unwrapped it to find a white and black plug. The white plus is the one, made a jumper that went to my voltmeter and figured out Orange is pos, and Blue neg. Soldered in the light covered with heatshrink that has glue inside to make waterproof. Wrapped it all up stuck em in and they work great.

 

 

 

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I have the Approach lights and the Little Subaru Stars in my mirrors so need for this but looks pretty cool.

 

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Yeah man I saw those that’s where I got the idea. Plus the auto dim would of been cool but I don’t like the bigger rear view mirror. Almost ordered them last night looked up the install guide and then it hit me. I don’t like the white led cuz of my blue theme and once I saw where the plugs wires went to in the diagram I new I could come up with something blue and it wouldn’t cost me a dime considering I had what I needed already. Thanks again for the door sill info I did order those and a few other items to mess with. Ordered some exhaust bolts, nuts, gasket and the nameless exhaust. Looks like there’s room to do the install without ramps.

 

 

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HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

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Finished my engine cover mount today. Ended up getting some m6 eye bolts, quick pins, coupling bolts, and scuff plates. Then I grabbed some small awg wire with some heat shrink to connect them. The m6 bolts were key in order to keep the same mounting spot for the front right bolt. All actual hood pin sets are 1/2" so I had to piece it together. Fits snug and is high enough to not rub against any tubes or wires. Prob could of tried buying the mounts Grnlantern1 recommended and honestly the next person to try this might want to go that route being much easier I would assume. For me though I love custom projects so in the end this was fun and gives my engine a lil something extra.

 

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Finished my engine cover mount today.

 

This post by KJS2023 has prompted a kind of related question that I have often wondered about. Do any of you forum members remove the engine covers altogether or do you consider the covers offer some sort of tangible benefit? I often read where some people call them "beauty covers" and that they serve no real purpose. In my case the clips that hold the cover on, are either failing or have broken, and the cover is not quite as secure as it originally was. And because I have never personally taken it off (I go to the dealer for all maintenance apart from regular basic fluid checks) it is obvious that the "technician" at the dealership has lost or broken the retaining clips during the relevant service procedures. This minor matter definitely doesn't keep me awake at night, I have spoken to them at previous service appointments about this, and intend to raise it again at my next service, simply because I see it technically as a "warranty" item (albeit an insignificant one that I won't be taking to SOA if I get knocked back,:lol: but I will ask anyway just to keep them honest and let them know that I am checking on their work :))

But the real question is ... do I need the cover anyway? :confused:

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I see the cover as a way to help keep the engine clean besides the looks of it of course. Might as well pop it off there’s 2 pop in style in the back and it slides towards the front to take off. Take a look at my pics to get an idea. Once you take it off just figure out what part to buy if it’s the brackets or even the rubber inserts it will be cheap. The actual cover is $80 though.

 

 

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HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

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... But the real question is ... do I need the cover anyway? :confused:

 

Hi mate. I hope you are staying safe up there in these difficult times. I don’t think you really need the cover, but I like the look of it & it does tend to keep the engine clean. Have a look at an older N/A H4 that doesn’t have the cover & you will see how dirty the engine can get. I think it may also quieten the engine, but I haven’t carried out any back to back comparisons to verify that.

 

After one rear retaining post on the cover of our previous 2016 Liberty 3.6R was broken at the dealer during a service, & after I found one of the front rubber wedges that fits over the front retaining bracket for the cover on our 2019 Outback 3.6R sitting on top of the bottom engine bay plastic undercover after a service, I now remove the cover before the car goes in for a service & refit it when I get back home.

 

Have a read of my post #4 on subaruoutback.org forums under 'Forums > Models > Best FREE Gen 5 Mods' here for a couple of tips. If your rear post has sheared off like one of mine did, it can be glued back on with super glue. I did this after cleaning the broken off surfaces first with Diggers 95% Isopropyl Alcohol (available from Bunnings in good times - not sure about now though). The repaired one was still fine when I traded the Liberty in over twelve months later, & that was with me occasionally taking the cover off & back on.

 

The Subaru badge on the engine cover has been known to fall off the cover on the SJ Foz XTs. On my previous SJ Foz XTP it hardly took any effort at all to remove it, so I re-secured it with some Selleys Roof & Gutter Silicone Sealant I had in the cupboard. This fix was recommended by ‘Fate’ on subaruforester.org forums. The badge on the gen6 Liberty 3.6R & the gen5 Outback 3.6R seems to be a bit more secure but it is worth checking.

 

Added 13-Apr-20 10:35am AET: I forgot to mention. Some of this may be obvious. If the front of your cover feels loose (can be moved up & down) at one of the front corners, it will probably be a missing rubber wedge which you may find on top of the bottom engine bay plastic undercover. If the rear feels loose (can be moved up & down) at one of the rear corners it will probably be a broken rear retaining post.

 

To remove the cover ease up the rear to clear the rubber grommets, and then slide towards the front to clear the front brackets lugs. Do the reverse to refit but lining up the front lugs isn’t the easiest (I put a line on the front bracket with a sharpie to line up the side of one of the cover slots).

Edited by XT-sub
Added more info in the last two paragraphs.
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I see the cover as a way to help keep the engine clean besides the looks of it of course. Might as well pop it off there’s 2 pop in style in the back and it slides towards the front to take off. Take a look at my pics to get an idea. Once you take it off just figure out what part to buy if it’s the brackets or even the rubber inserts it will be cheap. The actual cover is $80 though..

 

Wondering if the Subaru Forester cover would be a better fit part# 14025AA560

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Maybe be cool to have both cars side by side to have a look. The 3.6 cover does fit great on the 2.5. Yeah some modifying but worth it for me at least.

 

 

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ohh and cant forget the STI Pedals. It was a pain to install them though the screws are just so small theres no room to work. The hardest part is the accelerator long screw that installs half way down the pedal.

 

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If anyone does the 3.6 Engine Cover retro fit I did ensure you use lock tight on all the nuts and bolts. I drove it prob 15min and just about all the bolts moved on me. I re positioned them especially the bolts on top with the washers that stop the cover from going to far down so I have clearance around hoses. Now with the lock tight its solid no movement. This Friday bringing my car back to the shop to have the nameless axleback put in. I tried my best but those bolts and nuts are just so rusted and I tried to do it with out jacking the car so yeah no room for leverage.
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Lol right I was surprised how much the nuts moved. The bottom nuts that lock into my mounts stayed fine cuz of the pressure. The top nuts for keeping the hight are the ones that moved a lot. I was most worried for the coupling nut I have in the back right.

 

 

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

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