What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Shop looks sweet. I'm pretty jealous. Was cleaning and painting a valve cover over the weekend and all I could think about was a garage and a parts sink. My roommates were not stoked on the baking enamel smell from the oven either....

Just gotta convince said roommates to go in on a shop!

You got aluminum trailing arms, or were they just the ancient KNS brackets?

Neither. Original trailing arms, but my rear calipers came with the brackets. Dum dum assumed they worked on the LGT, but turns out the V2 brackets don't. V1s on the way. Maybe some kf the 5th gen guys want the V2s

Picked up a TRC rear difuser from a relatively local partout, ordered a beatrush alternator cover from someone on one of the Facebook groups.

I'm a fan of the beatrush parts. Wish we could get more of them easily.

I replaced the wagon headlights long ago with depo lights and am super happy with them. Look new, no water issues and light output dramatically improved. My specB headlights have been polished once last fall and they looked great for awhile, but haze is fully back now.

Washed my specB and also replaced the power steering pump o-ring. Still getting a lot of noise out of it though, and it's very annoying..

Seconded. This has been one of my best investments. Never met anything it hasn't been able to loosen, or in some cases, shear into bits

 

On-topic: my new South Bend Stg2 daily clutch came in over the weekend. Planning on just resurfacing the flywheel and re-using it... anyone have any reason not to do so? It should be the STi SMFW, so no issues there.

 

snm95ls: Seems you likely had an OEM clutch (factory dual-mass FW was made by Sachs).

Interesting...

Is 186k on the stock clutch a record?

I suppose it is possible that it had an OEM replacement clutch put in, but that seems unlikely. Then again, that's what I did, but switched to a single mass setup.

Taking some adjustment, but this thing drives so much better now with the single mass clutch. It certainly has that very familiar Exedy feel to it.

Summers on! Finally

so clean !

Is 186k on the stock clutch a record?

 

 

I suppose it is possible that it had an OEM replacement clutch put in, but that seems unlikely. Then again, that's what I did, but switched to a single mass setup.

Pretty sure there have been higher on these forums. To be honest, I feel like dailying any car should get 150-200k on factory clutch if you know how to drive. But I've never had a clutch go out on any of my cars before otherwise totaling them

Found a reman'ed driver's front brake caliper in stock at NAPA yesterday and swapped it on last night. The old one required a good bit of pry bar action to work it off due to the seized piston. To my pleasant surprise the brake pads were still flat & parallel (no wonky tapered wear) so I was able to reuse those. Car brakes about like it should now, and after lunch I'll head over to get my core charge back. And FWIW the NAPA reman looked identical to the original caliper- TOKICO branded, with identical casting marks.

For those of you looking to re-clear your headlights, I've gotten semi-decent longevity by coating them with a bit of spar urethane that's thinned just a touch with mineral spirits. It lasts about a year on my car before it starts looking ratty again (22K mostly highway miles a year) and it lasts a little longer on wifey's car that isn't driven nearly as much. Surely not as nice as new clear Depos, but much longer lasting than those wipes or the typical thin coat of plastic polish/sealant type stuff.

For those of you looking to re-clear your headlights, I've gotten semi-decent longevity by coating them with a bit of spar urethane that's thinned just a touch with mineral spirits. It lasts about a year on my car before it starts looking ratty again (22K mostly highway miles a year) and it lasts a little longer on wifey's car that isn't driven nearly as much. Surely not as nice as new clear Depos, but much longer lasting than those wipes or the typical thin coat of plastic polish/sealant type stuff.

Same here, followed this guide and have always gotten good results on multiple vehicles:

Guide:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/headlight-restoration-guide-201687.html

Results:

https://imgur.com/gallery/92PHr

Did you apply any clearcoat afterwards? I have a set of used JDM headlights, hope I won't have to polish them every 6 months.

I had my JDM headlights polished and hit with a clear coat when the car got painted a year ago. They still look like they're brand new.

Has anyone tried the clear lamin-x after polishing?

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Yup.. y'all know what happened here. In the process, I came up with an idea. Slide the boot on first, then the spring in the boot, then manage the coil onto said boot. Of course I did them on the rear cylinders, and of course it failed miserably....

Once again it was an all day affair, then again being at work also didn't help. 60k on the plugs, was hoping the clutch went bad first so I can do them with the engine out.. LOL, such as life!

Scotty

Has anyone tried the clear lamin-x after polishing?

I can tell you that I cleared mine after sanding/polishing, and experienced some sort of a reaction between the paint and plastic; I got spider web like cracking under the surface of the clear which just looks terrible. So be careful; I did prep them and still had issues.

I haven't had any issue with plugs, both in my '07 spec.B or my friend's 2013 WRX wagon. I know I have dainty hands and all, but with the right set of sockets/extensions it's always been pretty straightforward. Haven't found the need to raise the engine or anything. Just remove the airbox, battery, and air-pump.

Scotty

I'm still experimenting. This was my 2nd time doing plugs on this. It did go faster, but I tried that little shortcut that I thought of and lost all of the time I saved. Still learning..

 

Scotty

My best method involves a 3/8" flex-head ratchet, a small extension (2" or 3" i think?), a long extension (I think 6"), a u-joint adapter, and the spark-plug socket (5/8" IIRC). To break the plug from the head, insert socket, small extension, u-joint, long extension and finally the ratchet. Once the plug is broken, pull everything besides the small extension off, and spin it out by hand. The plug + socket + extension combo should fit with a little wiggling into the spark plug hole between the frame rail with no other issue. Installation is the opposite.

Yeah a couple misc extensions and a swivel ratchet makes it pretty easy I've always thought, but practice definitely makes perfect. I've done plugs 3-4 times now and probably takes 2hrs start to finish. No lifting the motor, but I'll remove battery and air box.

Sent funds for JDM bumper just 20 min ago.

Yup.. y'all know what happened here. In the process, I came up with an idea. Slide the boot on first, then the spring in the boot, then manage the coil onto said boot. Of course I did them on the rear cylinders, and of course it failed miserably....

 

Once again it was an all day affair, then again being at work also didn't help. 60k on the plugs, was hoping the clutch went bad first so I can do them with the engine out.. LOL, such as life!

 

Scotty

Bloody knuckles!

You've renewed your ManCard!

SC