bdcvg Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 So I,m driving the OBXT and all is fine , I briskly accel and at around 6 psi of boost the car bucks and the Cobb pulls 11-12 deg. of timing . From then on it just keeps pulling timing whenever I accel. Boost leak? or intake leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 Do you have btssm or the AP? Check your fuel trims first and do a quick vac leak check (block inlet hose and blow through the blow off valve hose). You may have a 'massive' vacuum leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 Vacuum line to BOV actuator slid off down under wiring harness. I had a ziptie on it but it wasn,t tight enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 16, 2021 Share Posted September 16, 2021 That'll do it. I also need to do another vac check on my 06. Similar issue at the moment. Running way lean and the ECU is adding fuel, which is a sign of unmetered air getting in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 I didn't have time to test drive and it just occurred to Me that the car should have had a crap idle if that line were completely off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Yeah, it should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 (edited) So fears confirmed BOV line not the problem. I had to check My banjo screens awhile back and removed the intake tube. I have had the issue since then. I took it all apart yesterday and checked everything but loose BOV line was My only possibility. I feel good about all the connections being tight and they are all zipped or clamped. The only one that seems loose is the funky diagnostic / PCV valve with the electrical plug on top of it. That hose slides in pretty easy but doesn't have a lip to ckamp or ziptie. What about a faulty BOV? Also I noticed no timing pulled below 5psi boost Edited September 17, 2021 by bdcvg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 I don't know. I don't recall people reporting faulty BOV. I just checked my car yesterday for vac leak using that blowing method through BOV hose. Could not find any. I recently changed my inlet hose and a few other hoses including PCV. I think my issue yesterday was an ever so slightly loose connection between inlet hose and turbo. I tightened it yesterday. Will drive some today and carefully check AFR and AFR correction. Did you replace your inlet hose? Also, I agree that the PCV connection to the inlet hose appears loose, but don't recall having issue there. I need to buy a fog machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 The inlet hose is a Perrin that I have had for years. I will try the blow in BOV test again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 Found it. Took a radiator pressure testing cap and clamped it to the BOV hose at IC. Used a bicycle pump to pressurize system. Sprayed the old "Dawn and water" mix everywhere and found bubbles at BOV hose and intake junction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Nice find. Thanks for sharing. Is it a matter of tightening a clamp or a more involved replacement for repair? Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 In My case tightening clamp worked. I positioned clamp during install so I could reach it from above just forward of the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Found it. Took a radiator pressure testing cap and clamped it to the BOV hose at IC. Used a bicycle pump to pressurize system. Sprayed the old "Dawn and water" mix everywhere and found bubbles at BOV hose and intake junction. Can you elaborate a bit more on your test? Pic of the set up? Where did you exactly clamp your testing cap on the BOV? The small hose or larger BOV hose? And you must have blocked off the inlet hose too right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Nice find. Thanks for sharing. Is it a matter of tightening a clamp or a more involved replacement for repair? Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk The OEM clamp is a self tightening clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted September 17, 2021 Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 Can you elaborate a bit more on your test? Pic of the set up? Where did you exactly clamp your testing cap on the BOV? The small hose or larger BOV hose? And you must have blocked off the inlet hose too right? My radiator pressure test kit just happened to have a cap that fit into the BOV hose. I put that in the BOV end. I removed the elbow from the airbox to the Perrin intake hose and crammed a bottle in it to make that airtight. I used a small hand pump designed to blow up pool toys to move air. The hose was long enough that I could move around and get a general location of hiss. Then I sprayed the soap water mix until I had bubbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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