Nexus 7 Tablet Install for Dummies (Guide)

That's right. I also installed a power switch inside the center console compartmentthat cuts power to the nexus/peripherals. I also installed an external power button next to the nexus 7 in case it freezes and I have to force a reboot or something.

I made this video a long time ago. A few details have changed since then, but not much.

 

Play it in double speed. I noticed I talked too slow in that video

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0slj-8_d-8]Nexus 7 2013 installed in 05 subaru outback using OEM USDM NAV bezel - YouTube[/ame]

Edited April 6, 2018 by xt2005bonbon

Having trouble installing Timur using . Execute flash-all without -w through bootloader. Then load TWRP through bootloader. Goto TWRP from Recovery and load the 3 files listed. When it is done it always boots back to the Android OS. Help!!!

That's what's supposed to happen?

 

Timurs Rom looks more or less stock.

Then how do you start Timur? I do not see an icon?

 

Any way to confirm it is loaded?

Timur's Rom is a variant of Android, there isn't something extra to "start".

 

Look in the applications for a Power Event Manager.

 

Open it up and it should tell you what version of Timur's Rom it's running if it's installed correctly.

Just started down this path (2013 16gb wifi model). Got as far as getting Timur's kernel installed with some hiccups - had to format /data using TWRP before things would work..

 

 

Any suggestions for:

1) USB DAC?

2) powered hub?

 

3) backup cameras / how to wire?

4) power supplies / caps / switches to make life easier?

 

 

I have an '05 5EAT without steering wheel controls, so looking at maybe a bluetooth button for simple controls. May stick a bluetooth keyboard in the glove box for nav - or can it still do voice commands like "navigate to ..."?

 

 

I'm trying to keep it somewhat simple - hookup a DAC, for now into my aux-in to stock stereo, but maybe go to an amp + new speakers later. Don't want to spend $60-70 on a power supply, $100 on "the best" DAC, etc.. Who knows how long the car will last?

 

 

Anyone wired up an OBD-2 splitter so that the original is still functional, but can split off a VAG-COM cable + BTSSM?

If you go to my old video I uploaded to youtube, you will see the list of parts I used for my install. Two years later, everything is still working just fine.

 

I do not have an obdII splitter. Did not think of that actually. If you find one that works, please post!

 

One important (to me) update that I added since that video are steering wheel buttons. I was able to get them working by adding a 'joycon exr' usb device. Works great!

 

Edited November 24, 2018 by xt2005bonbon

Thanks. Hard to find some of those parts - is the Supernight power supply a "TOBSUN"?

 

 

 

I think you mean the UCA202 is your DAC?

 

 

 

Didn't have time to watch the whole video, will tomorrow..

I use the UCA202 for the DAC. It's cheap, it works, can't complain. I don't use a powered hub, just a cheap Amazon-branded USB2.0 4-port hub. Again, cheap, and works fine.

 

 

I built my own power supply, schematics and board design I'd posted previously. It's an isolated flyback topology, which I personally prefer when working in automotive since it leaves much smoother power rails than using a standard buck converter. See following links:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5291916&postcount=522

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5738331&postcount=822

Thanks. Hard to find some of those parts - is the Supernight power supply a "TOBSUN"?

 

I think you mean the UCA202 is your DAC?

 

Didn't have time to watch the whole video, will tomorrow..

 

I got everything on ebay. I have no idea if the power supply is a TOBSUN . It works though.

I was first using a crappy usb hub but it was giving me trouble. So I decided to upgrade to a better one. Only paid like 20$ or so though. I have 5 devices plugged to it (VAGCOM, usb stick, video grabber or whatever it is called, joycon, and the UCA202 for the DAC).

 

Next time you watch the video, play it at 2x. I talked slow in that one

 

Edit: searched for the power supply on ebay and yeah it is a TOBSUN: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUPERNIGHT-DC-DC-12V-24V-to-5V-5A-Step-Down-Regulator-Module-25W-Converter-/181254966017 I would get a 10A to have some headroom just in case.

 

 

I built my own power supply, schematics and board design I'd posted previously. It's an isolated flyback topology, which I personally prefer when working in automotive since it leaves much smoother power rails than using a standard buck converter. See following links:

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5291916&postcount=522

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5738331&postcount=822

 

You should build a few of these and sell them to us .

Edited November 24, 2018 by xt2005bonbon

Thanks - so you used the timer + power supply to get rid of the power-cut-during-cranking issue? Where did you get the input for the power supply from? How did you wire it up?

 

 

 

Nice work, solidxsnake - yeah, would buy one for a reasonable price :-) I don't have the design skills to tackle that project myself, though..

Thanks - so you used the timer + power supply to get rid of the power-cut-during-cranking issue? Where did you get the input for the power supply from? How did you wire it up?

 

I do have a timer installed to avoid that very issue (Tablet unmounting usb devices and going into sleep mode while cranking).

Trying to remember what I did.... IIRC, the timer needs a constant +12V and I think I got that from a 'hot' wire at the back of the stock stereo. Then, the 'trigger' wire was connected to the positive wire from the cigarette lighter. Finally, the output of the timer (positive) went to the power supply. I set up the timer to like 10 or 15 sec I think.

The one I got (from timershop) is very well built. High quality. Zero issue.

 

I should note that I've also added another timer for the backup camera. There are times when I backup and let the car gently roll (while in neutral). Without the timer, the camera would turn off right away once I get it in neutral. No good for me.

 

Finally, also bought one of those 3rd brake light flasher from that same shop as well. Love it.

Edited November 24, 2018 by xt2005bonbon

Thanks again. Those timers seem like they would also work for a "12v LED light string/wand under the hood driven off the battery with 1-hour timeout, in case I forget to turn them off..

Alternatively you can tie the ACC and IGN together with some diodes and therefore the tablet has power during cranking also. This is how I have mine wired.

 

As far as I've read Obd2 splitters don't work. Though I would love to be wrong. They work for devices that just use the Obd2 for power, like those insurance things. But if both devices want to talk to the ECM they both can't be on at the same time.

 

If you want to split it so you can leave the vagcom cable plugged in and still have a port free, the only way I can see that working is if you wired a switch to kill the power to vagcom so that when you use the other device they won't conflict.

 

Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

Alternatively you can tie the ACC and IGN together with some diodes and therefore the tablet has power during cranking also. This is how I have mine wired.

 

 

That's still going into a 12v->5v power supply, right? And then how do you wire the PS output up to power things? Splice in a hacked USB cable? Or power a hub that can deliver 2+ amps to tablet as well as power everything else? Just trying to get everything planned in my head. I already did a cheap "wire up a USB charger to the cigarette lighter" for a really old version of this, but I don't recall if it will do 2+ amps.

 

 

 

 

As far as I've read Obd2 splitters don't work. Though I would love to be wrong. They work for devices that just use the Obd2 for power, like those insurance things. But if both devices want to talk to the ECM they both can't be on at the same time.

 

If you want to split it so you can leave the vagcom cable plugged in and still have a port free, the only way I can see that working is if you wired a switch to kill the power to vagcom so that when you use the other device they won't conflict.

 

Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk

 

 

Yeah, I've thought about it some more. I think I'm just going to see if I can free up the OBD2 port so I can plug in the VAG-COM and have both sit UNDER (behind) the dash covers so I don't kick it all the time while driving

 

 

When smog time comes, just unplug from VAG-COM and put it back into stock location..

Thanks again. Those timers seem like they would also work for a "12v LED light string/wand under the hood driven off the battery with 1-hour timeout, in case I forget to turn them off..

 

Sure. These timers are very versatile and super easy to set up.

Yeah still need 12v to 5v. I was referring to how to feed power into anything you want to stay on during cranking. If you take a ACC line and an IGN line and put a diode on both (in the right direction) then tie those together, and run that to the 12v of the 12v to 5v converter.

 

Here you go, there's a link to a picture in there:

 

 

Thanks again. Those timers seem like they would also work for a "12v LED light string/wand under the hood driven off the battery with 1-hour timeout, in case I forget to turn them off..

You could also just wire it up to a hood pin so hood open = on, closed = off. Edited November 26, 2018 by nevets27

Yeah still need 12v to 5v. I was referring to how to feed power into anything you want to stay on during cranking. If you take a ACC line and an IGN line and put a diode on both (in the right direction) then tie those together, and run that to the 12v of the 12v to 5v converter.

Here you go, there's a link to a picture in there:

 

 

 

Thanks. Yeah, I think I could go either way. Anyone have a list/color/description of pins available near the radio handy?

 

 

 

 

You could also just wire it up to a hood pin so hood open = on, closed = off.

 

 

What do you mean by "hood pin"? I don't know of any existing "hood is open" or "hood is closed" signals. Are there some? Where?

Now that the cold weather is here, I've been noticing my tablet's failure to boot when it's sufficiently cold out (roughly 30-35°F). Anyone else having this issue with the N7 2013? It used to work through the winter in my LGT, but it's recently been dying (as if the battery was completely dead) when cold out, and will eventually boot up when it's warmer. I'm guessing the battery is just on its way out, and upon some searching it seems the tablet isn't even rated to operate at those cold temps anyway, so I'm wondering whether it's worth my time or not to buy a replacement battery.

^Have not suffered from that yet. But then again, my car is stored in a garage. Will report if it happens to me.

Anyone have any interest in a full JDM bezel/nexus7 gen 2/grom2.0/anti glare on the screen etc with cords/ cig ligher adapter etc and everything? I pulled mine out of my 08 spec b and its just sitting in the closet.....

 

Edit: with btssm already on it but no obd2 cable included

 

$500 shipped.

 

Dave

Edited November 26, 2018 by cryo

What is grom 2.0? What model of nexus? What other accessories included?

sorry, I'm not sure where I got 2.0 from

 

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_89496_GROM-Audio-Subaru-Bluetooth-Streaming-Kit-GROM-BT3-SUB08.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping-campaign-general&utm_keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv9Kns8Ty3gIVV57ACh3xrgQnEAQYASABEgLw0_D_BwE

 

Its a bluetooth module for our 07+ radio...

 

Its the Nexus7 gen2 so the 2013+ I want to say.

 

The cables are to and from the unit for power with the timur kernal mod, then the usb station where you would plug in your obd2 cable etc)

 

This kit was put together for me by a customer, it worked great but I only drive about 5min back and forth to work now so it never gets charged.

 

Dave

Ah, ok.. I have an '05 with an '06 stereo.. So the GROM is wasted on my setup - I'm either going aux in and/or separate amp if I really like it..

What do you mean by "hood pin"? I don't know of any existing "hood is open" or "hood is closed" signals. Are there some? Where?

 

They don't come stock with one, you would need to add it in but its simple. This is a hood pin.

 

There are a couple existing holes on the fender you could use to mount it so no drilling. Just hook up the lights ground to the bottom of the pin (the blade connection) and when you open the hood it will ground and turn on you light.

 

I did it for my alarm, but might add a light now that you mention it. Can snap a pic if you need a better idea.

Edited November 28, 2018 by nevets27