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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Drove from Detroit to Milwaukee for Christmas with the in-laws and back on a jacked trans. Helicopter noise on power and jar o' marbles on decel the whole way. Picked up a low mile 5MT from Gtrekt in Chicago on the way home. Got back Sunday, friend and I got the new trans in yesterday. Driving back to Milwaukee for Russian Winter Holiday with my folks today. Woo!

 

And, cracked 10k on the RA motor. Still have all my ring lands and bearings hah

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Not quite there yet with my wagon Max, but few miles shy of 230K. Will reach 230K before oil change coming up on the weekend.

 

 

Nothing done on my car today, just drove it to work and then to gym after. I started hearing squeal on morning starts, and the steering gets jerky initially. it goes normal quickly. It's either the accessory belt - the one i installed in the summer looked a bit too narrow and had part number one digit of from the old one. Or the steering pump, original at 14 years/~230K miles.

 

I already got OEM belt, will try to swap it over the weekend before I get concerned about the steering pump.

 

 

Hopefully its just the belt, tighten that one first before you put the new one on.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I drove through that storm yesterday. I think I'll pass on driving on I89 in Vermont and New Hampshire from now on....

 

Scotty

 

I hear you, Back in March 2015, I made the 5 hour drive from Ludlow VT to Sugarloaf ME in a snowstorm. They had 8" on the ground by the time I got to the condo check in. That was a fun...drive.

 

I have a ton of winter driving stories.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Spent 3hrs wiring the switch and driver mirror for power open/close.

Fishing wires through the hinge to the door is now on my top five least favorite things to do on this car.

But I do have the driver’s side working!!!

Maybe tomorrow I’ll tackle it he passenger side.

Had to add four wires to the switch. Took a bit to figure it out.

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Installed a set of JDM headlights on my car today.

Followed one of the walk through on here and went nice and easy.

 

The light output is crazy. Hope it isn't annoying to other drivers, but I can see far and the color output looks like daytime. Doesn't match my led fogs and parking light but its close.

 

Can upload some after pics tomorrow.

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Made some nice progress on the passenger STI seat. I got the STI cushion and leather on the legacy frame and the airbag/occupancy sensors & seat heaters all wired up. Plugged everything while the seat back and bottom were still apart to test and everything is working correctly. :cool:

 

Last few things I need to do are the metal grinding to get the seat back bolted up and switch out the power seat rail for the manual ones.

 

Happy New Year to all!

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Installed a set of JDM headlights on my car today.

Followed one of the walk through on here and went nice and easy.

 

The light output is crazy. Hope it isn't annoying to other drivers, but I can see far and the color output looks like daytime. Doesn't match my led fogs and parking light but its close.

 

Can upload some after pics tomorrow.

 

 

 

Go find a wall. Measure the height of the center of the projectors off the ground. Put a long tape line on said wall at projector height and then move the car to 25ft away. At 25ft, your cut off should be about 2 inches below your tape line.

 

Make sure you adjust your lights so you've got about a 2 inch drop and you should have one solid cut off one, not two steps. Make them overlap. Then take a picture with a camera stabilized on the hood so I can see the output lol.

 

If you do that, you won't be bothering anyone regardless of color or brightness. Remember that hid bulbs don't burn out but do burn down. You should replace them every two to three years of daily driving.

 

If you didn't swap the cut off shields you're likely blinding someone btw. But I'll try not to stand on that soap box.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Spent 3hrs wiring the switch and driver mirror for power open/close.

Fishing wires through the hinge to the door is now on my top five least favorite things to do on this car.

But I do have the driver’s side working!!!

Maybe tomorrow I’ll tackle it he passenger side.

Had to add four wires to the switch. Took a bit to figure it out.

 

Did you look at the How-To thread? I posted wiring diagram there, USDM 2014 Tribeca wiring matches JDM folding mirror setup.

 

For fishing the wires through, Home Depot used to have some sort of gel lubricant for this exact purpose. It was a quart gallon plastic bottle, dries clear and does help a lot - I used it for pulling ethernet cables through the house and for wiring video feed through Tribeca.

 

wire hanger from dry cleaning place is another alternative.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Go find a wall. Measure the height of the center of the projectors off the ground. Put a long tape line on said wall at projector height and then move the car to 25ft away. At 25ft, your cut off should be about 2 inches below your tape line.

 

Make sure you adjust your lights so you've got about a 2 inch drop and you should have one solid cut off one, not two steps. Make them overlap. Then take a picture with a camera stabilized on the hood so I can see the output lol.

 

If you do that, you won't be bothering anyone regardless of color or brightness. Remember that hid bulbs don't burn out but do burn down. You should replace them every two to three years of daily driving.

 

If you didn't swap the cut off shields you're likely blinding someone btw. But I'll try not to stand on that soap box.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for the advice. Ill go do that once it starts to get a little dark out so I can see.

The driver shield projector was aimed really high. I know that much so got home and adjusted it some.

 

Think the headlights make the grille seem more naked now. Might add a subaru emblem in the middle of it.

IMG_5777.thumb.jpg.ab8eb9ce9c37595c5847320741a3dde3.jpg

IMG_5772.thumb.jpg.190c27b7fa7b8ab59ae926bfb52b8458.jpg

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Did you look at the How-To thread? I posted wiring diagram there, USDM 2014 Tribeca wiring matches JDM folding mirror setup.

 

For fishing the wires through, Home Depot used to have some sort of gel lubricant for this exact purpose. It was a quart gallon plastic bottle, dries clear and does help a lot - I used it for pulling ethernet cables through the house and for wiring video feed through Tribeca.

 

wire hanger from dry cleaning place is another alternative.

 

Yes, that was my starting point, thanks!

 

My door connectors were 8-pin, the JDM mirrors are 10-pin; so I needed to re-pin both mirror connectors and figure out which two wires were for open/close. The colors were a little different for mine compared to what was listed.

 

Also at the switch, my '05 wiring doesn't match the FSM '05 wiring diagram; so I had to do some testing to figure out what went where. Additionally, I had to find four pins that fit the connector for the switch, two for the mirrors, one for power, and one for ground. Thankfully I had another connector that was close enough and pulled the pins from it. The Tribeca wiring was immensely helpful, but not an exact match in my case.

 

I got the wiring through the door by pulling the old electrical tape from the middle, sliding up the outside rubber, cutting a slit in the internal one. Then I ran a wire snake from inside to that slit. I also pulled the outside rubber cover from the door and fished a wire from inside the door to the mid-point. Then used the snake to fish the wire back through from the mid-point to the inside, taped it to the real wire, then pulled that through to the door. Wired it to the mirror.

 

Tested it, no working. Figured out it was because I was missing the power/ground wires in the connector for the switch. So I tested out the existing wires and piggybacked off existing wiring that was there.

 

I need to do the passenger side today when it warms up a little more. Should only be an hour or two as most of it is just fishing the wire to the door.

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@lil'redwagon - You are the 3rd person I've encountered that considered buying this car! Didn't realize the rarity of it when I bought it. Would have fit perfectly with your username though!

 

The car is in great shape all things considered. There were quite a few things I had to quickly address when I bought the car. Things like, catless downpipe with no tune, hogzaust, adapter lug nuts grinding into the wheels, tie rods grinding against sway bar and end links, fuses missing (radiator fans, most notably), fog lights wired incorrectly, etc. Sitting pretty now - no leaks, creaks, or squeaks. Interior and exterior are in very good condition for a 15 year old car. Now I just want to maintain it and add a few upgrades, but I'm in no rush to do so. Thanks for the warm welcome!

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Today I reinstalled the heads on my motor fresh from the machine shop (decked and valve job) with the new ARP head studs. Started to set the valve clearance and realized I loaned my precision feeler gauge set to my brother and he still has them.

 

Also, I bent some more of the stainless hard lines for the fuel rails on my 03 WRX but ran out of 6AN stainless tubing so I started on the brake lines.

 

Now I'm watching @subiperformance build a closed-deck & sleeved EJ on Youtube.

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Boost gauge should have come with a T, if not, you can get any plastic T from an auto parts store. In fact they usually sell the T's in a little package of assorted sizes for a couple bucks. You could get one of those packages to assure you have the right size. Off the top of my head, you'll need something like a 1/4" or 3/16" and splice it into the line coming out of the BOV/BPV.
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Go find a wall. Measure the height of the center of the projectors off the ground. Put a long tape line on said wall at projector height and then move the car to 25ft away. At 25ft, your cut off should be about 2 inches below your tape line.

 

Make sure you adjust your lights so you've got about a 2 inch drop and you should have one solid cut off one, not two steps. Make them overlap. Then take a picture with a camera stabilized on the hood so I can see the output lol.

 

If you do that, you won't be bothering anyone regardless of color or brightness. Remember that hid bulbs don't burn out but do burn down. You should replace them every two to three years of daily driving.

 

If you didn't swap the cut off shields you're likely blinding someone btw. But I'll try not to stand on that soap box.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is the beam pattern after I adjusted it. On the close up picture the little rainbow beam above the actually headlight beams was just a reflective from the plastic cover itself.

IMG_5781.thumb.jpg.29de68a6f445cdade96f2e31df78fc21.jpg

IMG_5780.thumb.jpg.80b87cf52d2bc7296f09d38e5199e99a.jpg

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Here is the beam pattern after I adjusted it. On the close up picture the little rainbow beam above the actually headlight beams was just a reflective from the plastic cover itself.

 

 

 

Not swapping the shield cut off would kill me. But for the price you can get them for, that's not bad at all. Too bad the outback decided to be all dumb for the front end or I'd likely go this route.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Not swapping the shield cut off would kill me. But for the price you can get them for, that's not bad at all. Too bad the outback decided to be all dumb for the front end or I'd likely go this route.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I'm probably going to flip the shields when it starts getting warmer out. I saw one of the guides on here and doesn't look too hard. Just taking it apart scares me since I don't want the break anything.

 

So far the cut off doesn't seem to bother any drivers around here. People around here will flash their high beams at you if they don't like it. Even got a few flashes my way when I had the stock headlights with Slyvania ultras installed :confused:

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