What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10

Well.... the spec b is running, started on first crank last night!

Special thanks to Tysparks87 for the help on the install and removal, and to Dave from Cryo for the base tune, no engine lights!

Here is a clip after 20 mins of warm up, nice bit of a backfire to end the video!

Time to back into the driveway, that seems like a big design flaw.

Yep, then the trunk would leak, haha.

Rhino Ramps!

Well.... the spec b is running, started on first crank last night!

Special thanks to Tysparks87 for the help on the install and removal, and to Dave from Cryo for the base tune, no engine lights!

 

Here is a clip after 20 mins of warm up, nice bit of a backfire to end the video!

 

That Q300 exhaust is noisy and will pop.

I picked up a set of Ohlins from Yahoo! Auctions Japan, sent them into service at ANZE Suspension (30 min drive ) and was happy to find out that they are in good mechanical shape. Cosmetically, they are a bit beat up. On one of the locking nuts it looks like they had tightened it without the proper wrench and use a hammer and screwdriver instead. The front boots were replaced and I will need to order the rear boots at some point as well. Installed all of them onto Bessie this afternoon.

With the shipping so expensive from Japan, it got my thinking whether people would be interested in an ocean freight service with cheaper shipping, but longer wait times.

Well I don't know much about those graphs but they sure are pretty. Was this something made for the non us market? I know ohlins is big in the eu but I didn't know they made stuff for our vehicles.

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I picked up a set of Ohlins from Yahoo! Auctions Japan, sent them into service at ANZE Suspension (30 min drive ) and was happy to find out that they are in good mechanical shape. Cosmetically, they are a bit beat up. On one of the locking nuts it looks like they had tightened it without the proper wrench and use a hammer and screwdriver instead. The front boots were replaced and I will need to order the rear boots at some point as well. Installed all of them onto Bessie this afternoon.

 

 

With the shipping so expensive from Japan, it got my thinking whether people would be interested in an ocean freight service with cheaper shipping, but longer wait times.

Nice find! If ya don't mind me asking -How much?

Got another set of power pulls in the specB for Cryotune today. He said I might need a boost controller, which I'm fine with. We'll see on this set of logs.

Starting to pull together parts for the wagon refresh. Need a new oil pan, valve cover gaskets and motor mounts in there, maybe a new crank pulley/dampener and timing components after that. Then clutch eventually.

Nice find! If ya don't mind me asking -How much?

It converted to about $1,000 USD before shipping. Hard to say what the shipping would be for you since I bundled it with a bunch of other stuff I bought, but perhaps $300 is close.

How did you get them to ship the coilovers to you, they won't even unblock those auctions for me for fear that they can't ship them to me.

Use myjapanbrand.com. Place the order through them and they will ship it to you, they make a commission.

Well I don't know much about those graphs but they sure are pretty. Was this something made for the non us market? I know ohlins is big in the eu but I didn't know they made stuff for our vehicles.

To be honest I don't know what to look for in those graphs either. I know of at least one other forum member (magnusonsubie) that has a set. They were sold in the US domestically, here's a thread on them.

(pure pulling this from my tail pipe) I think those graphs are showing the coilover response (resistance force) to the movement of the piston. The left side being small movements (0.5 inch / sec) versus right side being large movements (7.5 inch / sec). I'm guessing since the trends in the graphs are pretty stable (linear in sections with specific inflection points) that means their response is in good shape.

This is a huge guess and I could be completely wrong. At first I thought it was the inverse (how far/fast does the piston move in response to a force) but I decided to go with the above explanation.

RallySportDirect has is having a one day 15% off sale for Killer B. I'm having a hard time talking myself out of why I shouldn't pull the trigger on the holy header/up-pipe combo & waiting for my wife to get home so I can "discuss it" with her.

In other news, got the Michelin Pilot Alpin PA4's mounted in just time before we received a few inches of snow. Damn fine winter tires that handles great in the dry/wet/snow that live up to reviews.

If you pull the trigger spring for the swaintech coating.

Totally worth it because all wraps suck over time and KillerB won't warranty headers that have been wrapped.

(pure pulling this from my tail pipe) I think those graphs are showing the coilover response (resistance force) to the movement of the piston. The left side being small movements (0.5 inch / sec) versus right side being large movements (7.5 inch / sec). I'm guessing since the trends in the graphs are pretty stable (linear in sections with specific inflection points) that means their response is in good shape.

 

 

This is a huge guess and I could be completely wrong. At first I thought it was the inverse (how far/fast does the piston move in response to a force) but I decided to go with the above explanation.

I suppose I mistated. I can read the data just not interpret it. I'm guess they should all read about the same compared to each other since they are matching suspension and to show the health of each one.

I'm assuming that what I'm looking at is two responses on the same graph, top line being application of weight (in pounds force) at a certain acceleration (in/sec) [which would actually be force since force requires acceleration] and that's the response rate of the suspension.

While that's good and interesting, and glancing at it makes me think they are similar and so one isn't blown, I've also never seen a graph like that for stock or new ohlins.

I also could be totally wrong. I look at lots of data that I don't know the meaning of lol. It'd be interesting to see a comparison to other suspension but even then I wouldn't understand the application. I hate linear suspension on non downhill mtb. A logarithmic function is better in most applications for that sport. No idea about cars

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If you pull the trigger spring for the swaintech coating.

 

Totally worth it because all wraps suck over time and KillerB won't warranty headers that have been wrapped.

Trigger pulled. Did the v-band up-pipe combo with the EGT bung and that sweet white lightning! Estimated delivery was end of April so this will be a nice way to celebrate the end of tax season for me.

This should pair nicely with the custom BNR 18g that JMP is working on for me.

By this time many of us invested an equivalent of plastering the exterior of our car with $100 bills couple of times over.

But then driving over twisty roads on the way home tonight felt like heaven. Barely held myself from going too fast and too tight in corners among non suspecting civilian traffic.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Genuine-Subaru-03-Legacy-GT-BP5-BL5-Center-Stereo-Radio-Console-Cimate/352895511421?hash=item522a362b7d:g:tq8AAOSw93xd3MjO

double din

https://www.ebay.com/itm/jdm-genuine-subaru-03-legacy-gt-bp5-bl5-center-stereo-radio-console-cimate/352895511421?hash=item522a362b7d:g:tq8aaosw93xd3mjo

 

double din

single climate zone

Having my heads rebuilt with all GSC parts. S1 cams, +1 valves, retainers, seats, guides, and beehive springs. Also a little bowl blending and port work.

I understand you have bigger cams, did you discuss with GSC about what they were porting on the heads ?

I have stock cams, I recall the thread over on NASIOC about being careful what the shop ported.

All my porting was done down around the valve pocket and thinning the divider, the port exit was left alone to keep the velocity of the exhaust gas speed.

Today I've got a final few things buttoned up for the spec b. I've booked the alignment on the car and booked the windshield replacement (neither were done when I bought the car) I've got to get it safetied. I wasn't able to get my intercooler on the car because the previous owner stripped out the bov location and did a poor job with heilcoils. So I ripped them out, drilled out the locations and tapped them out I found some spare M12 x 11.25 bolts and they fit the bolt locations on my bov! Perfect, I make a gasket out of a sheet of material I had and bolt it all down.

Now to figure out how to install this beast with my strut tower bar...

Bought a complete 2011 STI steering wheel for a decent deal on Ebay. Last modification part I'll be buying until about the middle of next year. I need to finish up some of my current projects and get the space back in my home office.

To-Do's:

- Install STI passenger seat

- Swap the window switch face plates on the front JDM door cards, get the inserts re-upholstered red and install

- Install the JDM tweeter housings in the mirror location

- Install the McIntosh subwoofer housing in the cargo area

- Install STI steering wheel and run wires for the audio controls

- Wash the car (close to 1.5 months without a wash - brings great shame and dishonor to my family)

That should be all you have to do for the fronts, rears are completely PnP. I haven't tried mounting the fronts on the car yet but the mounting points look to be identical. WRX USA is the only other person who's done this that I know of and could confirm that before I could get a chance to test mount. I can snap a few pics of them when after work today either way.

Alternatively, I've debated about just drilling a hole in the USDM cards and tansferring the 3rd speaker grill for the mid. If I remember correctly it's only held in with a few trapezoid shaped extension tabs on the back but I need to look at it again.

Original owner of my car had a small dog so there's scratches and other wear marks while the JDM cards are damn near pristine. Even the red lines on the lock button have zero fading or use marks.

I was talked out of importing a set a few months ago.

If that's all that is required, I may look into it again. My Spec B door cards are in good shape, but pristine would be nice.

Please update when you get it sorted.