2005 LGT Sedan - Fuel line replacement and other stuff

Couldnt fit this into a more appropriate section based on the descriptions for the Technical Forums. Forgive me in advance if this is the wrong place.

 

 

I recently picked up a 2005 LGT 5EAT that needs one the rubber fuel lines replaced (runs under the intake plenum). Long story short, the PO got in over his head trying to remove the plenum (and TGV's) so he put the car up for sale partially disassembled.

 

The plenum and TGV's are out at this point and I've starting the work on replacing the fuel lines but had a few questions that popped up along the way.

 

I'll be replacing any hardened rubber lines (which appears to be all of it so far) but was curious if there's a good source to buy lengths of the various diameters. My thought was to source everything I could from a place like O'Reilly Auto Parts and cut to length as needed.

 

Another question I had was, is there any service-type stuff in particular I should be addressing while I have this car apart? I'll be looking into the banjo bolt screen removal and the timing belt is a given once I confirm this engine acutally runs but is there anything else less obvious I might want to consider fixing along the way?

 

Where might one find a drawing, picture, or person who is familiar with the routing of the vacuum lines for the intake plenum? A few items were broken during disassembly and I want to ensure I have done the research in order to get everything back in its correct location. I also thought about putting up a pic for questions that I cannot find an answer to.

Buy oem!

 

Part numbers can be found here

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_26/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_3/

 

Can also find all the gaskets, etc...

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_26/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_2/

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_26/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/illustration_1/

 

You can also find a FSM searching for vacation pix

 

Compression and leak down test to confirm motor health. Make sure turbo isn't leaking oil and doesn't have excessive shaft play.

Great links! Those will be very helpful in getting this intake sorted out. Thank you.

 

 

As far as buying OEM, considering the OEM rubber under the hood consistently sucks in Subarus, I'd be happier taking my chances with something else. I've owned vehicles from several manufacturers and Subie is by far the worst from what I've seen. The rubber hardens far too quickly for my liking.

12 year old rubber is shit on any vehicle that produces as much engine heat as a Subaru.

Many of the lines are hard because they are re-enforced as they are pressure lines. If you don't go OEM, I would caution that you ensure the correct pressure rated lines are used and compatible with the fuel in your area(ie. ethanol). You could get rid of all the lines and pick up a set of used fuel rails and go with either a series or parallel feed setup too.

 

If you have the intake off, you may also want to consider doing the air pump delete mod. It will take several pounds out of the engine bay and also eliminate some very hard to reach solenoids that like to go bad at inopportune moments.

 

If you have the intake off, you may also want to consider doing the air pump delete mod. It will take several pounds out of the engine bay and also eliminate some very hard to reach solenoids that like to go bad at inopportune moments.

 

No air pump on an 05. It does have the cat in the uppipe though that should be deleted.

No air pump on an 05. It does have the cat in the uppipe though that should be deleted.

 

That's right, it came in 07. Brain fart...

 

Thanks!

12 year old rubber is shit on any vehicle that produces as much engine heat as a Subaru.

 

Is it remotely possible that Subaru simply uses shit rubber? My RS, WRX, GT wagon, Legacy 2.5i and now this Legacy....all the same issue. Vac and breather lines hard as rock and brittle to boot.

 

By comparison, the under-hood rubber in my Ranger (10 yrs old, 182k when I sold it) that towed an enclosed trailer up and down the East coast was fine, also my 4Runner that also towed enclosed trailers, tractors and also went 250k before I sold it (11 years old) and the 25 year old BMW 5 (265k when sold)....All the rubber was supple enough to be removed from the attachment points when needed. The several Hondas didn't do this, the one Dodge I owned sucked everywhere else but the rubber components were fine.

 

Are you suggesting that a Subaru engine produces more heat than a 6 or 8 cylinder engine that tows 4000 to 7000 lbs semiregularly through the mountains?

 

 

CapnJack - the high pressure lines will be replaced with the appropriate stuff. It's more about the various vacuum lines.

 

Are you suggesting that a Subaru engine produces more heat than a 6 or 8 cylinder engine that tows 4000 to 7000 lbs semiregularly through the mountains?

 

 

I am indeed. The boxxer motor configuration has the cylinders horizontally which produces far more heat under the intake manifold that contains all the vacuum lines/breathers and fuel lines. On a traditional inline or v engine the cylinders are vertical and dissipates more of the heat on the outside of the cylinder block as opposed to the top of the block like the boxxer motors.

I'm taking on the task of heat management in the hopes of giving the rubber under the hood a longer lifespan (heat wrap UP/DP and maybe headers if I have enough left). PTP blanket and a Grimmspeed Heatshield. It can't hurt and might help.

I am indeed. The boxxer motor configuration has the cylinders horizontally which produces far more heat under the intake manifold that contains all the vacuum lines/breathers and fuel lines. On a traditional inline or v engine the cylinders are vertical and dissipates more of the heat on the outside of the cylinder block as opposed to the top of the block like the boxxer motors.

 

Are you able to corroborate your statements?

 

I'm open to your opinion however I have a hard time buying the whole heat argument when I am seeing every last inch of rubber being affected on the Subies I've owned, not just around the intake manifold.

All my evidence is anecdotal, but I don't think it would be difficult to prove. Maybe I'll go do a run on my 16 Colorado and then in my hopped up 05 LGT and hit under the manifolds with the IR thermometer. I know the LGT runs much hotter.

 

Also could be due to climate, storage, etc... I like oem because it fits perfect and won't typically fail. To say that this car with a turbo(heat source), uppipe (heat source), intercooler (heat source), all lumped next to rubber hoses doesn't run much warmer than a 3.4ltr Toyota V6 or Ford 4.0ltr is just wrong. I've owned an Explorer Sport Trac and Tacoma with those motors, they run significantly cooler under hood temps (not coolant temps those are fairly standard based on thermostat). The Toyota ironically munched its head gasket (bad casting). I don't recall replacing any breather or fuel hoses on either though so you got me there.

I know when I pop my hood after driving 30 minutes and then trying to touch things (even the hood prop) is hotter than any other car I've owned.

 

 

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I used OEM for shaped lines. For anything remotely straight or not under strain to be curved, I used the appropriate type of hose from NAPA. The two main fuel line hoses would be $20 or something from Subaru, or $2 off the rack at NAPA. There were two places where I tried to bend the generic hose to fit, and I still wonder if one day it will just crumble to pieces. I also got the barbed Tee from Company 23 for the connection point behind the intake manifold.

All my evidence is anecdotal, but I don't think it would be difficult to prove. Maybe I'll go do a run on my 16 Colorado and then in my hopped up 05 LGT and hit under the manifolds with the IR thermometer. I know the LGT runs much hotter.

 

Also could be due to climate, storage, etc... I like oem because it fits perfect and won't typically fail. To say that this car with a turbo(heat source), uppipe (heat source), intercooler (heat source), all lumped next to rubber hoses doesn't run much warmer than a 3.4ltr Toyota V6 or Ford 4.0ltr is just wrong. I've owned an Explorer Sport Trac and Tacoma with those motors, they run significantly cooler under hood temps (not coolant temps those are fairly standard based on thermostat). The Toyota ironically munched its head gasket (bad casting). I don't recall replacing any breather or fuel hoses on either though so you got me there.

 

I completely agree the heat from the turbo is a factor however, look at the list of cars I owned a few posts back. The non-turbo cars seem to me to be an issue as well.

 

The Subaru engines don't run hotter than anything that is towing. It's just not reasonable to say they do. I would agree the under hood temps might be elevated in the turbo Subarus by comparison but that is more of a dissipation issue.

 

Let's use the V8 4Runner for example....and only because I had to remove the intake on that vehicle in order to be able to bypass the air pump system. That vehicle was heavily used....offroading and regularly towing ~6000lbs for the 5-ish years I owned it. When I removed the intake for the bypass I noticed every last inch of rubber was supple and did not crack (or break) when being removed or reinstalled. The intake on that V8 is far more enlcosed than the Subaru intakes which would suggest to me that there isn't nearly as much air flow going through that area.

 

Also bear in mind that the Subaru wire harnesses aren't being affected in the manner I've described. Nothing I've seen so far has the wire harnesses disintegrating like the rubber components. I feel that alone is noteworthy since I highly doubt Subaru is ponying up the money to use Teflon coated wires anywhere. I would guess they are nothing more than the run-of-the-mill PVC insulation.

 

I don't mind agreeing to disagree. The two of us certainly have our convictions on this topic.

 

Right now my GT isn't running but my 2.5i is. I may take out the infrared and do some temp checks between the 2.5i and my Tundra just for the sake of curiosity. I'd be interested in knowing any specific areas you might think are good test points.