Gairdner Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 The axle seals has a left and right but each one has little squares on the outside lip. Is there a correct orientation of the seals and a depth to be sunk I have read protruding a little past the transmission case and then I have also read for them to be flush Any help greatly appreciated I am on my 3rd seal now and I need this one not to leak Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 (edited) I hate axle seals. The last time I did one, I followed some tips here and had success. I also used a different cv axle, one with a metal plate to protect the seal from damage. But that couldn't have played a role.. could it? Does the plate somehow put pressure on the seal, helping it seal? Just typing my thoughts. Anyway.. Some grease on the circlip to hold it centered, reduce the chance of it catching on the seal lip and damaging. Some grease (I used gear oil) on the cv axle where the seal will sit when the axle is installed, and some gear oil on the inside of the axle seal before installation too. After doing some research for rear main seal installation tips, this makes more sense now. Aside from helping with the install going smoother, it'll help keep the seal lubricated against the moving cv axle (or moving crankshaft) until gear oil or motor oil gets up to lubricate the seal. I think I've installed the main body of the axle seals flush, so the seal lips poke out a little. I wonder if that's why my dealer installed rear main seal is leaking after 2 years. Dry crankshaft rubbing against a dry seal after installation before oil got up there, damaging the seal. Not sure, I'll find out soon, but seems like it sure doesn't hurt to lube where the seal rides. Some pics too, so people can visualize better. Edited March 3, 2021 by apexi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 3, 2021 Share Posted March 3, 2021 The seals only go in one way. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jveerz Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 I had my driver side leak on me I just pressed mine in with a socket, make sure you have the correct side seal for that side also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gairdner Posted March 8, 2021 Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 So 3rd time lucky spoke to the tech at subaru. On oem seals from subaru they have a small arrow to point towArds front and a R or L for each side. Tap in lightly with socket keeping flat until outside edge is 1/16 from flush with transmission case 3rd time lucky! Thanks for all the help here everyone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 If you click on the picture I posted, then click again on the picture, you should get the pop up to enlarge the picture. you can clearly see how the left side goes. https://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=290522&d=1614781320 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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