Caliper slide pins

I've had recurring problems with the lower slide pin on my calipers sticking (the one with the little rubber bush on the end).

 

Have tried various greases etc, in the end I have concluded the rubber bush is stretched/worn out and is slightly too big for the carrier bracket bore, causing excessive drag.

 

The other day I couldn't even get the pin back into the bore since the bush was so stuffed, so I totally took it off.

 

The caliper now floats perfectly on that wheel with no drag, and most importantly no squeeling or clunking noise!

 

Now from what I have read the little rubber bush is just for noise reduction; it is not load bearing and does not serve any other purpose.

 

Once fitted up I can grab the caliper by hand and there is probably 0.5mm or so of movement if I rock the caliper up and down (pivoting around the top guide pin). This slack would normally taken up by the bush when it is fitted.

 

I am considering removing the bush on all 4 calipers since they are only available as part of the caliper rebuild kit with piston seals, boots etc. Bit rich really for a tiny little bush. I'd rather have slide pins that reliably slide and I only need to check them every tyre rotation.

 

Is there anyone else here doing the same, or is aware of any long term issues with running no bushes at all?

 

This is not my pic but shows the little rubber bush I'm talking about:

 

 

http://i55.tinypic.com/167kxls.jpg

Depending on the grease you used, you may have swelled the bushing. It should fit snug. But not tight.

Thanks, I agree the bush has swelled/stretched. I used the Permatex green coloured Ultra disc lube. Fully synthetic and apparently safe for rubber but every time I use the stuff it seizes up the pin with the rubber bush, within only a few hours!

 

I have ditched the Permatex stuff and have ordered a Subaru seals kit which includes the evasive Niglube RX grease (the good stuff they pack in from factory which lasts years).

 

In the meantime I had to ditch the bushing on that corner since it would not allow the pin to go back in. I'm just wondering if anyone else has done this as I want to remove the bushing on all four wheels so I don't have to worry about sticking pins ever again.

You may encounter more braking vibrations if you do remove it, since there's going to be more "free play" of the pin inside the housing. Have you tried to order new pins from the dealer?

Also those boots are there to prevent salt, dust, dirt, grime, etc from getting caked into the grease. If the grease gets sand and dirt in there, then you will wind up wearing down prematurely.

 

-mike

 

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You may encounter more braking vibrations if you do remove it, since there's going to be more "free play" of the pin inside the housing. Have you tried to order new pins from the dealer?

 

I have a caliper seals kit on order from dealer (which includes those little bushes i'm referring to). They are 4-6 weeks from Japan

 

In meantime without the bush I have noticed no difference in braking noise, feel or performance. Tempted to just remove all the bushes and be done with it!

 

Replacement pins don't come with the rubber bush, funnily enough.

Those little bastards seized on me one time too many. I replaced the slider pins with ones that don't have them.

 

I think Mike was talking about the boots, these things don't do anything like that. I had assumed they were only there to cause the leading edge of the brake to pull back slightly, and thus cause less noise and drag.

 

Andy

I think that my guide pins are the cause of my steering wheel shake. So I am toying with the idea of putting in the pins without the rubber on them.

 

Oh side question; has anyone use marine grease on the guide pins before?

I ended up pulling my rubbers off the pins 3 years ago to see what it does. It fixed my problem of heavy vibration under braking, and haven't had an issue since.

^Man Your avatar is too funny! Thanks for the laugh! No really thanks!

Just use the right lube for the job. I use the blue label stuff at work, which is a purple colored ceramic based brake lube. I also have a synthetic based stuff as well, which is the grey labeled stuff. But the best stuff, the blue labeled, is Permatex CeramicExtreme brake lube, just with a Napa label. Best stuff out there, but close to $20 for a 8oz brush top bottle.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/856/vzdm.jpg

So I used white grease and pulled the rubber off the lower back pins... shakes in the steering wheel are gone... for now.

^ and they are back... the shakes in the steering wheel!

Check the pins again. If they are not sticking, maybe the rotors need to be turned.

They have been turned already... 10,000 hwy miles ago. John John in Auburn did it for me.

I had the caliper pin seize on mine. Got so bad the pad material left on that side were shaped like this // as opposed to ||.

 

Advanced auto sells replacement caliper pins and a separate replacement rubber kit (comes with that piece and the bigger boot that seals the whole thing).

 

Still have some shimmy when applying the brakes. I think I need get the rotors turned when it warms up and I can work in the garage again.

They have been turned already... 10,000 hwy miles ago. John John in Auburn did it for me.

 

 

What brake pads are you using ? If the pads don't clean the dust off the rotor, the stering wheel will shimmy during braking.

^Powerstop Ceramic pads. Oh and John John said the rotors were not really needing the turning.

Just use the right lube for the job………...

 

According to Subaru, the best lube for the caliper pins, that will not swell the rubber sleeve, is Niglube RX-2. Around $17 for a 100g tube at your dealer. Part number 000041000.

I just pulled my my pins thinking they were holding my breaks from completely releasing but I have different pins and they don't have a bushing at all. 06 lgt here.

The US Spec (at least my '06) look similar but have a much larger rubber section.

 

I replaced both front calipers and brackets before the winter and had the brake rotors turned (most places wouldn't touch them and wanted to just sell me new ones) and it was better for about a month. I'm still getting a shake on braking.

 

I might do new rotors and pads this spring (I'm using stoptech pads but might try something else). My front LCA bushings are also shot. I have AVO offset stuff waiting for it to warm up so maybe the whole LCA is deflecting back and forth when I brake and it's not even the brakes themselves?