What did you buy for your 5th gen today? - V3

Just recieved 4 qts of Motul 300 for the Trans/Diffs. Planning on doing the 90k maintenance this weekend.

You need 5 total IIRC.

One for the rear diff and 4 for the trans/front diff.

In theory, yes, but I've ended up with a full unopened quart (or liter) bottle after changing on both vehicles. Somehow, 0.8 quarts in the rear diff and 3.9 quarts in the transmission added up to exactly 4.0 quarts, with the transmission sitting right on the "full" mark on the dipstick. There must either be some spot in the transmission that holds a lot of oil when you're on flat ground, or someone forgot to subtract the volume of a gear when they were calculating fill volume from the 3D model of the housing.

I think also the diff only took like half a quart when I changed mine.

 

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IDK, I've used pretty damn near a quart on both R160 diffs I've done, maybe a little overfill dripping and a few sips left in the bottle. Had less than a half quart of 5 remaining when I did the GT drivetrain.

Purchased one of those cheap 3-piece Chinese front lips from ebay as an experiment. It was on sale for $41 so I figured why not. It's generic but stated to fit 10-12 Legacy's, and the measurements on the sale post seem like they'll work as well. Still trying to work up interesting ideas for the 10-12 front end with the Bayson V-Limited lip. Years back, I wanted the Bayson JDM lip, but it's been out of production going on 3 years now, don't think it's coming back. I previously had done a silver rubber ez-lip under the V-Limited lip and I liked the look, but being rubber, it wore out fairly quickly. If the 3-piece lip fits nice enough, I'll likely paint it silver as well. We'll see when it gets here.

 

I was wondering about that. Just ordered another quart on Amazon so it gets here in time.

Just recieved 4 qts of Motul 300 for the Trans/Diffs. Planning on doing the 90k maintenance this weekend.

 

Just did mine with AMSOil Severe gear. 3.9 qts in the trans and .8 in the rear is spec.

 

BTW its better in the cold, still not great, but better. Can now downshift after 5 minutes instead of 15 minutes when its under 20F....

How difficult is it to do?

How difficult is it to do?

 

Pretty straight forward. You need a T70 socket (this guy - https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Standard-TORX-Socket-Square/dp/B005J3LEUI). I bought one at autozone for like $12

 

a 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a 6 inch extension. You might need a breaker bar to get the plugs loose if they have never been off before. I had to use one to break mine loose. Make sure you drive the car for a good 10 minutes to warm the fluid up. it will drain faster.

 

The drain plug for the trans is on the bottom - right behind the engine crossmember. You do not need to take the undercover down to drain it. You will need to be able to get the car level to get all the fluid out. I did it in my driveway by jacking the car up the front, putting it on jackstands, getting under the car, removing the plug and then jacking the rear of the car to level. (Front on jackstands, back on the jack and me not underneath!). If you don't get the car level you will not get all the fluid out. If you have a lift this is not an issue. I let it drain like that for about 10 minutes, let the rear down and put the plug back in. took the car off the jackstands and then filled via a funnel. It took 3.9 qts. I filled the trans though the dipstick on the right side of the trans below the intercooler. You will need a funnel or hose that fits in that small hole, and be patient as it drains in. Gear oil is thick.

 

The the rear diff there are 2 plugs in the cover in the back. stick the 1/2 inch extension in the upper plug (thats the fill) and break it loose first. Then do the lower and drain. Make sure you can get the fill loose first because if you cant refill it draining it is a problem! drain it, put the bottom plug back with a little black RTV on the treads. fill it in the top hole until it begins to run out. black rtv on the threads of the fill hole tighten and you're done.

 

For clarity, the trans has a sealing washer on the drain plug, you do not use any RTV. You can reuse it. The rear diff plugs do not have a sealing washer, hence the RTV. You could skip the RTV if you want but using the black RTV is the only way I have found to make sure those plugs don't seep fluid.

 

Both the drain plugs have magnets on them. make sure you clean them before you reinstall them and look for any big chucks of metal. big chunks could indicate a developing problem. There will be what looks like dark grey mud on them, thats normal wear. just clean them off with a little brake cleaner and a rag.

 

It's not hard, not harder than doing your own oil change. You just need the right tools

Edited January 9, 2020 by poconoracing

That is one of the most straight forward how-to's I have seen on fluid changes. You need to work as a technical writer.

The the rear diff there are 2 plugs in the cover in the back. stick the 1/2 inch extension in the upper plug (thats the fill) and break it loose first. Then do the lower and drain. Make sure you can get the fill loose first because if you cant refill it draining it is a problem! drain it, put the bottom plug back with a little black RTV on the treads. fill it in the top hole until it begins to run out. black rtv on the threads of the fill hole tighten and you're done.

 

This. Technically they are 13mm square drive, but the 1/2 usually does works.

 

Make sure you can get off the top rear differential plug first. My 2009 Outback rear differential had never been changed until this fall and it took quite a bit of effort to loosen it. I attempted to change it last year and I eventually soaked it over night with penetrating oil, a breaker bar with 13mm square drive, and I used the rear tire to put my feet against to brace myself while using my entire lower body for leverage to get it open.

This. Technically they are 13mm square drive, but the 1/2 usually does works.

 

Make sure you can get off the top rear differential plug first. My 2009 Outback rear differential had never been changed until this fall and it took quite a bit of effort to loosen it. I attempted to change it last year and I eventually soaked it over night with penetrating oil, a breaker bar with 13mm square drive, and I used the rear tire to put my feet against to brace myself while using my entire lower body for leverage to get it open.

 

Learned this one the hard way on the final drive of a 1986 Honda shadow.....a mistake you only make once!

Edited January 10, 2020 by poconoracing

That's why this is in my toolbox and have only had to use it once so far.

 

http://www.company23.com/image/cache/data/subaru/521/521-iso-1000x1000.jpg

I picked up this little guy for my birthday today.

 

 

I ended up ordering a special order blue and was told it was the last blue in existence. I have blue charge pipes, blue master cylinder brace and blue V brace, so I figured why not get blue.

 

I'll do a write up of the install and take some engine bay pics and show off the AWIC I have installed as well.

I made an order for the repair parts to fix my '11 GT - new intake/head/exhaust gaskets, ARP head studs, timing belt/waterpump kit, clutch parts, turbo coolant lines & heat shields, various missing clips and bolts that were questionable. I have a machine shop that I am dropping the heads off on Monday to recondition my heads.

 

I am kicking myself I didn't make this order last weekends, because yesterday and today are unseasonably warm in mid 60's days and perfect days to be working in the garage.

Hi all, new poster here.

 

I purchased a pair of h7 LED’s for my ‘14 Legacy and was wondering how they would fit in the housing since the size of the LED’s are double in length from the stock halogens. Since the original bulb is being held in by a spring retaining clip, can I somehow put the LED bulb in without the spring clip there to hold it in place?

which LEDs did you buy? Most have a base (the metal ring part that is keyed like an H7 bulb) that the spring still goes over. The H7 design is not self-retaining - you need the spring in place. (in the LED upgrade thread, some folks mentioned it is a bit of a pain to get everything situated properly - some LEDs are too long for the housing, so you need a different dust cover, as well.

which LEDs did you buy? Most have a base (the metal ring part that is keyed like an H7 bulb) that the spring still goes over. The H7 design is not self-retaining - you need the spring in place. (in the LED upgrade thread, some folks mentioned it is a bit of a pain to get everything situated properly - some LEDs are too long for the housing, so you need a different dust cover, as well.

 

Dennb has the same VLED's I have in my car. He PM'ed me about it after his post. I told him that the spring needs to be in place and for me it was easier to remove the bumper and headlights. Hope everything goes smooth for him and soon we will see his updated lights.

I had a DM conversation with him as well and told him roughly the same things I told Falcor as well lol. Pretty sure we got him covered between the two of us and he should be enjoying his LEDs sometime soon.

Ordered the Corazon carbon fiber trunk spoiler. Just have to wait for it to come over seas.

 

I'm still on the fence with getting it painted black or the red pearl to match the car.

 

I like the black idea because it will match the accents and other black bits on the car like the power fold mirrors but the the carbon patch won't pop as much.

 

If painted red it won't really accent the rear end as much but the carbon piece I'm sure will look great with the contrast.

 

I guess I have plenty of time to think about it.

 

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Honestly, do it red. If you do it black, the carbon accent will be totally lost. The carbon accent on it's own will add the bit of black visual touch to match your other accents from a distance.

Added to the pile of parts to bolt on this spring, along with a 19mm rear sway bar and the full suspension rebuild i'm piecing together. did a 500 mile round trip from richmond to philly to meet nadracer and pick up his center flex STi strut tower brace and axlebacks. the car i was going to keep stock is...not going to stay stock...dammit. Edited January 18, 2020 by creep_nu

Went out for lunch with friends yesterday and when I got back to the parking lot and my car........The key fob would not open the doors! No problem ,says me, I carry a spare key with the other fob on it. Oops....it would not work either. I opened the doors with the "Chipped" key and, of course, that set off the alarm.....lots of laughs from the friends

I got home and opened both fobs.....both batteries totally dead!!

Went to the local drug store and bought 2 new batteries (CR 1620)....what a PITA!!

One of the fobs has been in daily use since 2014 when I bought the car....the other has almost never been used, so I guess those little batteries die of old age, not continuous use

My cylinder heads came back from the machine shop all cleaned up & adjusted with new valves and seals. My reassembly & maintenance parts have been trickling in. I am hoping to finishing assembling the engine this weekend. I just have a few more parts to order.

Edited January 22, 2020 by dgoodhue

I rebuilt an AMC 401 for my old CJ-7 with my dad about 23 years ago. He is a mechanic so he did most of the work. For some reason rebuilding the flat 4 seems daunting to me though.

 

That being said, looks good and hope everything goes smooth.