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What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4


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Soooooo my clutch completely went out. Had to have it towed. The earliest idea was that my master cylinder crapped out. However, GTEASER called it - it was my pivot ball and clutch fork inside the trans that caused it. Which turned out to be great timing for the boss find to replace those pieces -

 

https://www.verus-engineering.com/subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-drivetrain

 

(located in our performance mod sticky too)

 

Got overnight delivery - Gillman Subaru will take care of it. OH! They are going to clean up my headlights too just cause they love me! Yay!

PSA!

This happened to me too and is happening to quite a few 6MT subarus so anyone with a newer or ,especially upgraded, clutch in your 5th gen legacy 6MT better upgrade when you can because the factory part will for sure fail eventuallyand ruin your new expensive clutch. Unfortunately the new beefy unit wasn't around when I did mine but it is definitely on the must-do list when the engine comes out again.

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Maybe in the spring?? I have been a wash and wax guy for so long it will be hard to change the routine. ATM I am waiting for another hip replacement surgery so anything more like bending over and scrubbing is outta the picture. I was in agony for hours after the wash and wax that I did.

This getting older is not all the fun you might think :(

 

 

Okay....little follow up on my wash and wax etc....kinda felt shamed about not doing the clay bar on my

Leggy. So I went to my auto parts store (Lordco) and picked up a Mothers clay bar kit... $35....not bad I guess.

Spent the rest of yesterday washing, claying and re-waxing the car .....the car is ready for the wet weather that is coming all too soon :mad:

I did all the steps recommended and few tips I got from the 'net....."Baggy test" first then get to work.....redid the "Baggy test" when I was fully done and to be honest there was little or no difference:confused: On the bright side the car now has a double coat of wax all over and three coats on the upper surfaces (roof, hood and trunk lid) That should do it for this year :rolleyes:

I expected a big difference from my normal routine and the clay bar treatment, but maybe my diligent use of cleaner wax has been the difference............the car is definitely gleaming and shiny now....alas, the weather forecast says we have a big change coming this weekend......just finished a week of great sunny weather and it is supposed to start raining tomorrow :eek:

 

Apparently summer is over in our part of the Pacific Northwest :mad:

Thanks to all for tips and encouragement.:cool:

EnPMWi6.jpg

Edited by Scooby Fan
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I did all the steps recommended and few tips I got from the 'net....."Baggy test" first then get to work.....redid the "Baggy test" when I was fully done and to be honest there was little or no difference:confused: On the bright side the car now has a double coat of wax all over and three coats on the upper surfaces (roof, hood and trunk lid) That should do it for this year :rolleyes:

 

I have never done a baggy test, but I will try it when I get home on my cars. I haven't use a claybar my Syclone in 8 years and I did my GT a year ago in June/July. I am guessing my Outback that I bought a couple weeks ago will need a clay bar.

 

On my 2.5i Legacy that I bought new, I didn't notice anything on the 2 times I claybar it in the 5 years I owned it. The used cars, I have bought, the 1st claybar makes a huge difference, but subsequent clay bar cleaning have done, seem to be a waste of time. I suspect since I regularly keep my car clean by hand washing and waxing them, clay bar does very little. My car never sees a car wash. Maybe the baggy test will open my eyes.

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I suspect that a car that is garage stored and washed/waxed regularly, probably does not benefit much from the clay treatment.... BTW my Leggy is a 2013 (bought in 2014) and has only got 30K Km (18K miles) on it so not a lot of time out and about in dirty air. I will do it again after the winter and see what that turns up.
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My GT was always garaged, washed regularly, but only waxed 2x in the first 5 years of ownership. After I did the first clay bar, seal and wax at 5 years and 53k miles, the car was noticeably shinier and,much much whiter.

 

The Fozz got it's first ever clay bar a few weeks ago. I never garaged or waxed it in my 3 years of ownership, and admittedly did not keep it washed very well, but the previous owner waxed it at least once a year. The clay bar lifted an amazing amount of dirt off the paint and the silver is brighter and shinier than its ever been under my ownership.

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I have never done a baggy test, but I will try it when I get home on my cars. I haven't use a claybar my Syclone in 8 years and I did my GT a year ago in June/July. I am guessing my Outback that I bought a couple weeks ago will need a clay bar.

 

On my 2.5i Legacy that I bought new, I didn't notice anything on the 2 times I claybar it in the 5 years I owned it. The used cars, I have bought, the 1st claybar makes a huge difference, but subsequent clay bar cleaning have done, seem to be a waste of time. I suspect since I regularly keep my car clean by hand washing and waxing them, clay bar does very little. My car never sees a car wash. Maybe the baggy test will open my eyes.

 

I grabbed a baggy, it was completely different results than I was expecting. My Syclone was the dirtiest (I have put about 7300 miles on it since 2010) and it fair weather garage queen (maybe the track isn't helping). Without the bag it felt smooth. My Legacy had a few specs which I could feel with my fingers but overall was pretty clean, (I forgot that clay bar it about 8-9k miles ago this past spring.) My Outback was spotless lol, apparently they must have claybar it before selling it.

Edited by dgoodhue
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Not today but yesterday and the day before I got my new v3 AP set up and installed my wideband sensor in rear O2 position of nameless dp. Install of sensor was much easier than expected. A little PB blaster and removal of some lower covers allowed me to remove the old sensor with dp on car. What a relief.

 

Next up is wiring the sensor.

 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

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Installed new 19mm Perrin adjustable rear sway bar and heavy duty Moog sway bar links with grease fittings last night. On test drive my Subie turns better now at high speeds with less body roll. All in for both $250. Next new KYB struts. Have struts but need to use daughters boyfriends press to transfer springs. Tried to find Koni struts but they only offered them for the GT model. Edited by swells
Missed some text.
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Installed new 19mm Perrin adjustable rear sway bar and heavy duty Moog sway bar links with grease fittings last night. On test drive my Subie turns better now at high speeds with less body roll. All in for both $250. Next new KYB struts. Have struts but need to use daughters boyfriends press to transfer springs. Tried to find Koni struts but they only offered them for the GT model.
The konis that are listed for the GT will work on all 5th gens models
Actually the front Konis that are listed for the 5th Gen on Koni's site are the 8610-1447S. If you can find them, get the 8610-1453S for 11-14 WRX, they are 1/4" longer at full extension and will make it a little easier to put the tophats on when the springs are compressed. Damping is nearly the same between the two.
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Finished up wideband wiring yesterday. I'm not seeing the "custom sensor rear O2 input" (or whatever Cobb calls it) in my AP though so I'm guessing something isn't set up right in my map yet. Email out to tuner to get it sorted out. Three DTCs as well for cat efficiency and rear O2 heat/signal. But aside from those hopefully minor things, I'm good to go. Wideband seems to be functioning although I haven't floored it yet.

 

Anyone know how to take off the plastic cover on the steering column? I'm hoping to mount a gauge pod there.

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Wow that sounds horrible. Maybe I'll use some double sided tape :)

 

lol it wasn't so bad on my 2010. I understand that the airbags on the 2012s are held in by clips and not torx bolts so that might be slightly more difficult to remove. I should've thought about installing some gauges there when I pulled my wheel to install the DAMD wheel

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