bleeding a slave and 6mt clutch fork logic questions.

Mods I put my post here because there are more eyes here. Move it to the transmission section if you feel is necessary.

I hope I am almost done with my 6mt spec b swap. I'm in the homestretch and running into more issues and confusion. Such is the journey of doing something yourself for the first time I guess.

I'm at the point where I think all I have left is to get the slave cylinder working/installed, get the starter in, then the intercooler and away I go. And yet....

I attempted to bleed my slave cylinder on the car and with the help of friend doing the open screw-push, close screw-pull clutch pedal method to where there is no air coming out the tube I attached to the bleeder and the pedal still doesn't want to come off the floor. I searched around and there are fewer posts about 6mts then 5mts and perhaps the 6mt logic is different given push vs pull style clutch. I came across some info suggesting the bleeder screw needs to be higher then the master cylinder during the bleed process and I am going to attempt that method Sunday using a C-clamp to get the spring closed.

This got me wondering though as I am looking at the forces involved between the slave cylinder and the clutch fork spring and it doesn't make sense in my head how its going to work. The clutch fork spring and a fully expressed slave cylinder spring "pushing" on the clutch fork both apply force in the same direction. So I don't really understand what is supposed to make the clutch pedal return to the raised position. If it's entirely hydrolic and based on the excess pressure in the slave returning the pedal to normal then that makes some sense. I just dont understand how a clutch works and what force clamps the pressure plate to the clutch disk and disengages when pressing on the clutch pedal. For a minute I thought maybe I had the TOB faced the wrong way, but in rechecking pictures and videos online I think I have it facing the correct direction such that you can see the tabs holding the fork to the TOB.

Sorry for the wall of text. I feel explaining my thought process and logic will help others point out my errors and avoid answers that don't apply to this situation.

Thanks!

Edit: After some more searching some folks on nasioc are suggesting this little bauble. A goodrich speed bleeder. I'd like to get this done sunday though instead of waiting for amazon to send it monday or tuesday.

https://www.amazon.com/Goodridge-Speed-Bleeder-Size-SB7100/dp/B000OO4K30/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1534573101&sr=8-1&keywords=SB7100+speed

Solved my own problem.

The internet says to take a c clamp and a socket and raise the slave nipple above the master cylinder. Well, a c clamp and socket and a slave cyllinder do not like to hang out together what so ever the moment you try to open the bleeder.

Solution!

Rip off the slave boot and dowel. Clamp the slave like god intended using a piece of wood over the piston. Pump clutch down, open bleeder, close bleeder, pump clutch up and down (with a friends help), open bleeder, close bleeder. Repeat till there are no bubbles escaping. Top off master as it gets low. Once no bubbles are exiting the bleeder, repeatedly pump the clutch pedal until resistance builds up to normal. Check master fluid level again. Cap it. Remove clamp from slave. Install slave with boot and dowel pin reattached.