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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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Took a drive yesterday. 130 mile exercise with my eight month old son, thirty some wifey, and visiting 75 y.o. mom to get a superb meal of bbq’d oysters on Tomales Bay. Mix of highway traffic, bridges, and winding road thru quaint CA towns and huge forests and then into coastal farmland and cattle pastures. Every once in a while, it’s nice owning a wagon that can fit bodies, baby gear, jam on the highway and still hug curves through the hills. I’ll get back to worrying about my leaking drivers cv boot, two to three wheel bearings, and SS brake line upgrade another day, yesterday was a beautiful day of ownership.

 

Sidenote: swear my a/c blows colder with the jdm hvac panel.

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Does anyone have an exhaust setup that goes as follows: High flow catted DP > Avo or Nameless mid/y pipe > stock mufflers?

 

I swapped the stock mufflers back in after growing tired of the drone the Nameless axlebacks produced. Now the car is just too quiet .

:yeahthat:
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Does anyone have an exhaust setup that goes as follows: High flow catted DP > Avo or Nameless mid/y pipe > stock mufflers?

 

I swapped the stock mufflers back in after growing tired of the drone the Nameless axlebacks produced. Now the car is just too quiet ��.

 

 

^^^ That but with stock Y. I tried several exhausts and spent money trying to get them to my taste but ended up coming back to this. Nice growl at idle and low RPM but no drone at cruising speeds. Low frequency rumble at low RPM is so cool - house resonates nicely but then I can take it to a hours long drive and not have a headache.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Contacted a reputable JDM engine/trans shop and told them I want a complete 6 speed swap. Going to cost more than a local or USDM sale but will be worth in in my opinion getting a low mileage japanese trans. They said 3 month lead time. What am I doing? I should be selling/parting out my leggy already! Anyone know of someone selling complete 6 speed swap and willing to ship to Las Vegas, do share as I have not been on Facebook for 10 years i think lol.

Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy

and @chefo.soriano

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Geezus that manifold looks brand new, I want one of those.

 

Brembo calipers are good and tight. I love extra brakes, both the bling extra and the stopping extra. Can't stop looking.

 

Cleaned up my old Wilwood superlites today too, which wasn't as bad as I thought and they appear to be in solid shape.

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Geezus that manifold looks brand new, I want one of those.

 

Brembo calipers are good and tight. I love extra brakes, both the bling extra and the stopping extra. Can't stop looking.

 

Cleaned up my old Wilwood superlites today too, which wasn't as bad as I thought and they appear to be in solid shape.

 

Yep, something like 22 miles on the manifolds! Bought the manifolds, center pipe thing, and up-pipe for something less than 300$. Came off 2014 STI. Had to get the heatshields separate.

 

Mmmmm. Brembo's. That is awesome!

 

Edit : Some more shiny heatshield porn :)

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Edited by bubbagump
addition.
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Geezus that manifold looks brand new, I want one of those.

 

Brembo calipers are good and tight. I love extra brakes, both the bling extra and the stopping extra. Can't stop looking.

 

Cleaned up my old Wilwood superlites today too, which wasn't as bad as I thought and they appear to be in solid shape.

 

do you have specs on the rotors for the wilwood's ?

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Does anyone have an exhaust setup that goes as follows: High flow catted DP > Avo or Nameless mid/y pipe > stock mufflers?

 

I swapped the stock mufflers back in after growing tired of the drone the Nameless axlebacks produced. Now the car is just too quiet ��.

 

I have a catted DP, Perrin Mid/Y and the stock cans.

 

I do have a cut out right in the Y though. It's pretty quiet with the cut-out closed, near stock levels from the cabin, which is great for long trips or trying to sneak through the neighborhood. On the other hand, it's comically aggressive with the cut out all the way open.

 

For me and having a wagon, stock cans are the way to go.

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Drove it, purposely tried riding the clutch hardcore in hopes of getting rid of any oily residue that might be on my flywheel or pressure plate. After replacing my clutch 11 days ago, it was shuddering and slipping immediately. After about 300 city miles, it's still slipping and shuddering from time to time. Looking back, I cleaned the new flywheel and pressure plate, but I don't think I cleaned them well enough. Recorded a vid of myself tightening down the flywheel and pressure plate for ocd reassurance in the future, and I saw what was likely oil/grease residue still on the flywheel. Spraying brake clean on both and wiping it off with a paper towel probably wasn't enough. I also think we have weak super low voc brake clean here, I just used regular grey can supertech from walmart. Bottles gone so I can't get the product code, could check next time I'm at WM.

 

Anyway, learn from my stupidity, just wanted to vent a little. Don't forget the simple things, like cleaning the crap out of contact surfaces like this before installation. /Captain Obvious.

 

Edit: I just checked my old subaru flywheel in the basement, and it is super smooth on the contact surface.. I used a new LUK LFW270 flywheel. I remember being surprised that it felt kind of rough, almost like fine sandpaper, not smooth like glass. It was clearly brand new, no question there.. Is that normal?! I figured it was normal since it was new, but checking my old subaru flywheel that a dealer installed 3 years ago has me wondering.. the entire surface of that old flywheel feels smoother.

Edited by apexi
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Edit: I just checked my old subaru flywheel in the basement, and it is super smooth on the contact surface.. I used a new LUK LFW270 flywheel. I remember being surprised that it felt kind of rough, almost like fine sandpaper, not smooth like glass. It was clearly brand new, no question there.. Is that normal?! I figured it was normal since it was new, but checking my old subaru flywheel that a dealer installed 2 years ago has me wondering.. the entire surface of that old flywheel feels smoother.

 

I used am excedy oe flywheel. I recall it being... Textured. I would say like sand paper, more like machined. Not glass. Been a while though maybe I'm wrong. 40k no issues and while I cleaned it with brake clean, it sat outside under a tarp for a few days before going in.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Why didn't you resurface your old one? Dual mass?

 

The FSM says "flexible", I don't know what the heck it is to be honest. I think it's a dual mass. I was worried that oil leaking from my rear main seal had contaminated it, and even after being cleaned, could fling out and cause issues. So I figured $130 isn't too bad, and bought a new one. Plus, this is my only car and I didn't want the car to be down for more than a day, and wouldn't really have a way to and from whoever would have resurfaced it. Guess I could have mountain biked it haha.

Edit: Would not surprise me one bit if the out of state dealer resurfaced my old flywheel and billed me for a new one. I've always defended dealers, but that was my worst experience ever.

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Contacted a reputable JDM engine/trans shop and told them I want a complete 6 speed swap. Going to cost more than a local or USDM sale but will be worth in in my opinion getting a low mileage japanese trans. They said 3 month lead time. What am I doing? I should be selling/parting out my leggy already! Anyone know of someone selling complete 6 speed swap and willing to ship to Las Vegas, do share as I have not been on Facebook for 10 years i think lol.

 

I too am not a fan of facebook I recently reactivated my account to buy and sell parts. I stick to the marketplace and avoid the main page altogether.

10+ years ago it was just pictures of people's lunch and ugly kids, I can't image it is that much different, except they are ugly teenagers now.

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Those that went with new aluminum LCAs from Rock Auto, what else is required when changing to them?

 

I saw mention of p/n 202216FA000:

202216FA000 - Taper Boss to integrate stock Ball Joint with MevoTech LCA assembly.

 

I googled to see where that would go and came up empty. Anyone have a little more info?

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Those that went with new aluminum LCAs from Rock Auto, what else is required when changing to them?

 

I saw mention of p/n 202216FA000:

 

 

I googled to see where that would go and came up empty. Anyone have a little more info?

 

Aluminum control arms from Rock Auto?! I had no idea! Awesome, I'm glad I came across your post.

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The mevotech? Nothing. Put them on.

 

Maybe you could swap the ball joints to more durable ones like moogs. And the typical subaru ball joint problems. But otherwise no nothing special, they are the same thing as the spec b arms.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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