willinc Posted April 12, 2021 Author Share Posted April 12, 2021 I only thought of LEDs as I thought they would be the option that lasts the longest but there are HIDs which are just as reliable??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willinc Posted April 12, 2021 Author Share Posted April 12, 2021 Also, did you guys with the LEDs installed, did you need a special cover to seal the headlight bulb or you just went without it after? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted April 12, 2021 Share Posted April 12, 2021 Also, did you guys with the LEDs installed, did you need a special cover to seal the headlight bulb or you just went without it after? Mine fit into the headlight housing and under the OEM cover - lights, drivers, and everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 Also, did you guys with the LEDs installed, did you need a special cover to seal the headlight bulb or you just went without it after? There's a link in post #3 to the universal boots I used. I could have fit the OEM caps over the LEDs, but I wanted them to have the best cooling possible, especially since the heatsinks are passively cooled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testa422 Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 ive run led and/or HID in my low beams for about 6 years with no dust caps...never an issue w condensation or anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willinc Posted April 17, 2021 Author Share Posted April 17, 2021 ive run led and/or HID in my low beams for about 6 years with no dust caps...never an issue w condensation or anything Thanks I guess i can drop the cap if necessary. Some people have told me due to the 'projector' style headlamp its probably better to run HIDs so the light doesn't 'diffuse' and they told me HIDs last about as long as LEDs so I'll probably go look for HIDs now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testa422 Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 Thanks I guess i can drop the cap if necessary. Some people have told me due to the 'projector' style headlamp its probably better to run HIDs so the light doesn't 'diffuse' and they told me HIDs last about as long as LEDs so I'll probably go look for HIDs now... the "expensive" led kits are desgined to make use of the mirrors and reflective patterns of a halogen projector unlike the cheap amazon crap...really just a preference between HID and LED. in my experience, HID will shine further down the road and provide more actual useable light but an LED kit will be much brighter directly in your foreground. It will still shine further and brighter than a halogen but ever so slightly less than an HID. a proper led kit will be a negligible differnce from LED IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pseudonym Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 I'm on a set of VLED's too but only closing in on a year. At this point, however, I would've had to change my halogen bulbs so I'm pretty psyched about not having to remove the bumper. I want to buy another set to use for high beams and just disconnect the DRL's altogether until someone comes up with a viable and moderately headache free wiring of another set of lights for DRL's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volleyball Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 My woman needs better lights. It sounds like vleds may be the way to go unless there are some led tuned replacement headlights. Not looking for U's or any halos. What is the latest word? My main concern is low beam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pseudonym Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 VLEDS are pricey but they last and thats the key. Light pattern is solid. These are all reasons why people go with the HIDs but if you're not interested in the process of going with HIDs then the VLEDS are the way to go. Buying the knockoff housings brings a whole other set of issues. Mine were with aiming the lights which proved to be impossible. In the end, I went with the stock housing with VLEDS and I can see for over a year now and haven't had to remove my bumper to make sure of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willinc Posted May 20, 2021 Author Share Posted May 20, 2021 I honestly kind of forgot about this since its spring now and sunny most of the day but I decided to go with HIDs, the install is more complicated it seems (have to mount the ballast, drilling hole in the dust cap if i want to keep it) but I'll post photos and etc when I finish. But its seems more reliable and the bulb can be changed if that burns out vs tossing out the entire light thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testa422 Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 I honestly kind of forgot about this since its spring now and sunny most of the day but I decided to go with HIDs, the install is more complicated it seems (have to mount the ballast, drilling hole in the dust cap if i want to keep it) but I'll post photos and etc when I finish. But its seems more reliable and the bulb can be changed if that burns out vs tossing out the entire light thing. not for anything but you can buy just a replacement led bulb too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volleyball Posted May 25, 2021 Share Posted May 25, 2021 So to change the bulb to led, what do you need to remove? On a side note, my puddle lights on 1 side don't work. I pulled the rocker. Is there a replacement leds for that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 On a side note, my puddle lights on 1 side don't work. I pulled the rocker. Is there a replacement leds for that? Reference this recall paperwork. Step one would be to check if your car has had the recall done yet - if not, they'll fix it for you. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2012/RCMN-12V602-9345.pdf If it has been done, you're on your own. The part number for the lights is H471SAJ010. There's a good chance the fuse in the "new" sub harness will be blown, so plan on either replacing that or cutting out the fuse and rigging your own back in as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volleyball Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 I did that recall many years ago. My problem is that corrosion got to the lights so the passenger side doesn't work. Amazon sells bulbs but they are like the originals. Corrosion is the bane of living in the Northeast. Just like you need to change the 2 right rear coilpacks, preferably when it is not winter in the 3.6Rs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted May 26, 2021 Share Posted May 26, 2021 The previous owner of my car had the recall done, so it was on at least its second set of lights on both sides when I bought it. Since then I've replaced 3 more sets. On the last round, I coated the back of the lights with sealant to try to prevent any water getting in. It's a losing battle, but at least they're somewhat cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plastixx Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 (edited) Why not install more reliable aftermarket puddle lights like this person did on their Outback... https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/puddle-light-fix-aftermarket-cheap.525657/ https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Tuff-23891-White-Lights/dp/B07R9FZS2C Edited May 27, 2021 by Plastixx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volleyball Posted May 27, 2021 Share Posted May 27, 2021 That is what I was looking for. A sealed light. Funny how it is only the passenger side that went out. Just like the coil packs. There would be more puddles on that side though. And the car is relatively low miles as it does a lot of city driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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