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Stewdogg's 2010 GT


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The clutch has been difficult to get used to but I think it doesn’t help I haven’t done the dampener delete yet. Maybe I’ll do that tomorrow. It just wants to grab and with that floating engagement point it’s tricky, got to slip it quite a bit on take off. Race car stuff you know. I’m still stock turbo with Sti cams and tgv deletes, and the usual stage two bits. According to the brad barnhill virtual dyno it’s about 270whp. Don’t know how accurate that is but idc, gives me a rough idea of power gain. I went over kill on the clutch cause I had replaced the factory one, when the release fork snapped, with one from oriellys for maintenance/insurance. But as soon as I went stage 2 it was slipping when I snatched gears. So I already wasted money on one clutch, wasn’t gonna do that again. I could have lived with that but I burnt exhaust valves on cylinders 2 and 4. So I had the engine out anyways. Put all new gsc valves, cometic headgaskets, arp studs. Just cut the exhaust seats with a neway cutter and lapped the intake. Didn’t go to a machine shop. Lol. I’ll have to show you a picture of the old valves, I was impressed. 89d5b10e13df07e5fc5c83bb52761774.jpg

 

 

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I'm sure the damper delete will help with that clutch feel. I would do it sooner than later, my clutch was all heat marked up from the slipping from the damper. The clutch was in good shape aside from the all the heat discoloration on the flywheel.

 

Haha, the butt dyno is the most important dyno there is.

 

Nice work on doing your own machining. Did you buy a Neway cutter or have a friend with one?

 

Any plans on going past stage 2 or are you content there?

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I got the cutter to fix a friends neon years before I got my Subaru. He paid for half of it. Lol. It just so happens the guides and valve diameter are close enough it worked perfectly. I due “plan” on going past stage two but there isn’t a solid plan or mainly budget yet

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, I had a little scare with some knocking happening with my car. It wasn't showing up on the AP, but was very audibly loud and concerning. I would get some knocking between 1.5-2k RPM's and I could get it to knock a bit with a blip of the throttle while in neutral. I was ready to throw the car off a cliff and start over.

 

I talked to Dave at Cryo and he had a couple suggestions and one of them struck me. He told me to look at the EBCS, especially if I have it hard mounted to metal somewhere. I had mine bolted to the sub frame in the front of the car. The last time I did an oil change I zip tied it tighter to the frame because it was a little loose in the mount. I went home jamming some tunes and didn't notice it till a couple days later and was thinking the worst. I ended up rubber mounting the boost controller in the same place and everything is quiet again!!

So, thanks to Dave for giving me some knowledge to get by this issue easily.

 

I'm in my 3rd revision of the 91 tune with Cryo and hoping to get to the corn tune soon.

That being said, does anyone know if the quality of the E85 changes for the winter and when that change would be normally?

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So, I had a little scare with some knocking happening with my car. It wasn't showing up on the AP, but was very audibly loud and concerning. I would get some knocking between 1.5-2k RPM's and I could get it to knock a bit with a blip of the throttle while in neutral. I was ready to throw the car off a cliff and start over.

 

I talked to Dave at Cryo and he had a couple suggestions and one of them struck me. He told me to look at the EBCS, especially if I have it hard mounted to metal somewhere. I had mine bolted to the sub frame in the front of the car. The last time I did an oil change I zip tied it tighter to the frame because it was a little loose in the mount. I went home jamming some tunes and didn't notice it till a couple days later and was thinking the worst. I ended up rubber mounting the boost controller in the same place and everything is quiet again!!

So, thanks to Dave for giving me some knowledge to get by this issue easily.

 

I'm in my 3rd revision of the 91 tune with Cryo and hoping to get to the corn tune soon.

That being said, does anyone know if the quality of the E85 changes for the winter and when that change would be normally?

Consistency is always an issue with e85, this is why the flex fuel is so popular.

 

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can you explain how mounting your ebcs too firmly caused knock? isn't it just a duty cycled solenoid? I just got a 3 port but haven't hooked it up yet.

 

Its probably sounds like a ticking or popping sound when it is working. I have mine mounted on a tab sticking out just in front of the radiator. And occasionally I hear a rhythmic tapping, I never thought it would be the ebcs but that does make sense.

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Yeah, I think because I had it mounted to the frame it translated and amplified the sound of the solenoid click. I wouldn't have looked there first, based on just the sound alone. It really had an engine tick kind of quality to it.

It certainly went away when I rubber mounted the boost controller and I couldn't be more relieved that it did!

 

I got my revision 4 tune yesterday and the torque is starting to get there. Getting a little more pinned in the seat when it's pulling now. I hope to get another revision this week.

We are going on a little trip this weekend and I get to do a couple of passes at Wildcat Mountain, should be fun.

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Yeah, I think because I had it mounted to the frame it translated and amplified the sound of the solenoid click. I wouldn't have looked there first, based on just the sound alone. It really had an engine tick kind of quality to it.

It certainly went away when I rubber mounted the boost controller and I couldn't be more relieved that it did!

 

I got my revision 4 tune yesterday and the torque is starting to get there. Getting a little more pinned in the seat when it's pulling now. I hope to get another revision this week.

We are going on a little trip this weekend and I get to do a couple of passes at Wildcat Mountain, should be fun.

 

I have a random rhythmic ticking I have been trying to pinpoint for a while now, I would have never even thought to look at the solenoid. I am going to add a bushing to the mounting point, I bet that is exactly what it is.

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I have a random rhythmic ticking I have been trying to pinpoint for a while now, I would have never even thought to look at the solenoid. I am going to add a bushing to the mounting point, I bet that is exactly what it is.

 

Certainly worth a try and the right price... free.

I was quite crushed with the way it sounded, kinda like my bad wrist pin from last winter...

 

This ticking noise was picked up by the knock sensor?

 

Not picked up by the knock sensor at all, which made me scratch my head a bit. The boost controller was mounted pretty far from the mic, but had it been closer, I'm sure it would have set it off.

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yep, ran into this with a car we tuned a long time ago and pulled my hair out over it.

 

Customer installed the EBCS down the street before a tune *we dont allow people to work on thier cars in the parking lot and he didnt want to have us do it*

 

He had mounted it directly to the firewall/fender area and thought it looked cleaner without bushings etc.

 

Put it on the dyno, turned the fans on and went about my business. The fans covered up the sound since its very light sounding to begin with and nothing was tripping on any knock readings etc. Upon doing the test drive I could hear something that was "concerning" at specific rpms etc and never thought it could be the ebcs since we always use the rubber mounts and all I checked pretune was the routing of the lines.

 

Customer said it never made that sound before the tune so we went rounds tryng to figure out what was causing it, sure enough we figured it out and the noise was gone instantly once using a rubber bushing. The "click" from the solinoid was being amplified under the hood and sounded like lifter tick etc one it got into the range of rpms where it started pulsing.....

 

pretty crazy for sure.

 

Dave

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Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community

 

cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I ended up running out of time with the LGT this year...:( We have gotten snow twice and the salt is flying in Wi. I decided to put it away this winter in an attempt to slow the rot and preserve all... some of the money I put under the hood this year.

 

Kinda bummed I didn't even get to finish the 91 tune let alone get to the corn. It's been a bunch of hurdles to get this far and I really wish I could have felt the full potential of my build this year.

 

Between this and the actual build last year, Dave and I will be trying to tune this car for a year and a half, I hope it's not longer:). I sent the payment over to Cryo 8/28/18. Then things started to go south after a couple pulls, full build, issue, set back, issue, set back and then ran outta time/weather.

 

The last pull I did looked like a possible boost leak with a loss of 2lbs of boost. I need to pressure test the turbo system and see if it's coming from there or somewhere else. I did switch to synthetic just a bit before that pull and after 4,000 miles on the new block. While looking for the boost leak I noticed there was some oil in the charge pipe. I think I will switch back to conventional oil for the start of next season and hope that the synthetic oil is the cause of the oil in the charge pipe and not my brand new rings or turbo seals...

 

I painted my garage floor this fall and just finished the drywall on the ceiling of the garage two Sundays ago. I parked the LGT in the garage that Sunday night and it started snowing as soon as I got it in there. Lost about 4-5 weeks of fall this year... boo!!

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Have you considered the extra blowby from a fresh block? Might just need an aos.

 

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I was thinking about the AOS as well, but figured that the synthetic oil might be the cause. I got some time now, so I think I will install one just to be on the safer side.

Any suggestions on a thread to read or a recommended AOS?

 

What is your EBCS setup like?

 

I have the GrimmSpeed EBCS and it's (now) rubber mounted to the front sub frame.

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I ended up using the AEM X-Series 30-0300 AFR sensor.

When it gets colder and I have more time I will update this thread with a build sheet on the first page and list the pics of all the crazy shit I found from the guy who worked on the car before me. It was some crazy stupid stuff.

 

You parked your car for the winter huh? Ive been looking forward to the wideband install write up. did you add a bung or just used oe up stream bung?

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  • 2 weeks later...
IAG makes a good aos, but its pricey. There is also crawford. Again pricey.

 

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I emailed IAG about an AOS and they said they didn't make one for the 5th gen LGT and couldn't support it.

I will have to spend a little time searching the forum to figure out which one to get for my car.

 

You parked your car for the winter huh? Ive been looking forward to the wideband install write up. did you add a bung or just used oe up stream bung?

 

Yeah, I picked up a 2007 Legacy while I was doing my build to get to work and stuff. So, I figured why not keep it around and go easy on salting the LGT for a couple years. It sucks, but it will be extra great when I get to pull it out again next year... :icon_frow

 

 

 

This is the way I hooked up my wideband... nothing too special, but it's what I did.

 

Yes, I did just use the existing upstream bung and had Dave (Cryo tuning) tune it out of the system.

 

I neatly zip tied all the wiring up to the rubber boot for the wiring loom in the firewall. Cut a slit for the wires to go through that rubber boot and I was in.

IMG_7799.thumb.jpg.54cfe24ff40262bd66d0ac55a818339a.jpg

 

I ran the wiring behind the plastic kick panel in the driver side foot well. I pulled the power for the gauge from the cig lighter in the stash pocket (the lighter in the pic below) and ran the ground to the bolt for the metal bracing for the counsel.

 

I pulled the wires through a hole I cut in the rubber pad in the stash pocket.

IMG_7802.thumb.jpg.779ce760f5bb79f4e9217f8814f669cc.jpg

 

Then I mounted the gauge in the stash pocket, so it would be easier to use the camera and get the proper info for Dave, while I'm doing the pulls.

IMG_7801.thumb.jpg.27495b8fa5456fe6c3196adb52b2a487.jpg

 

I did custom make the mount for the gauge in the car.

I had some thin aluminum that I cut the mount from and then covered it with some black vinyl, to make it disappear a bit more. I will end up moving the mount around the gauge cluster somewhere, so I can see it better while driving. It's held in place with some good ole double sided tape.

 

I thought I took some pics while I was making it, but I guess I didn't because I can't find them. If anyone wants pics of it, I can take it apart and get some pics. It was pretty easy to make and turned out pretty nice.

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did the sensor just plug into the factory harness or did you have to add some wiring? did the sensor come with current(ma) to AFR calibration info? Ive been tuning my car myself and im learning as I go. I know im too rich by the soot on my bumper but i'd like to get a wide band before I start leaning out. thanks for sharing
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did the sensor just plug into the factory harness or did you have to add some wiring? did the sensor come with current(ma) to AFR calibration info? Ive been tuning my car myself and im learning as I go. I know im too rich by the soot on my bumper but i'd like to get a wide band before I start leaning out. thanks for sharing

 

There is nothing wrong with using the factory AFR sensor as a good reference, it is what the computer is going to see when you aren't tuning. As I recall a couple of tuners pointed out the sensor's accuracy in some posts in this forum. Accesstuner limits the readings from the factory but I believe that can be adjust down to 10.xx from the 11.14 it pegs at now.

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did the sensor just plug into the factory harness or did you have to add some wiring? did the sensor come with current(ma) to AFR calibration info? Ive been tuning my car myself and im learning as I go. I know im too rich by the soot on my bumper but i'd like to get a wide band before I start leaning out. thanks for sharing

 

The way I hooked the wideband up... provided wideband O2sensor installed in the rear existing bung, wires passed through firewall to the AEM gauge, AEM gauge hooked up to power/ground and that is all. If you do it this way everything you need is provided in the kit.

 

There is a way to hook it up using a jumper wire/connector to the O2sensor hook up for the cars computer, but I was already using that for my flex fuel set up and having issues gettin it to work properly. I gave up and just got to tuning via video recording the wideband gauge while doing the pulls.

If you go this route, you just need to splice some wire and a connector into the wire loom from the wideband kit. Run that to the stock O2 sensor plug on the car and then you should be able to monitor the wideband in your logs.

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