Worlds Loudest Subaru Build Log

Hi, I'm Chris. I've got a 2013 subaru legacy 2.5L with cvt. In the original owner and do ALL the work on the car myself. I use this car as my competition vehicle in multiple spl leagues nationally (audio shows). Its had a lot of different builds in it so far but this season it has a freshly built b-pillar flat wall for 4 crossfire v4 18's on 4 Ampere 5ks being powered by 1 Singer 270amp 15v alt and 2 Singer 270amp externally regulated at 18v alts on custom juice box battery lithium iron phosphate batteries. Its still cold here in Ohio but will update this log as I work on it. Here's some pics of the old setup.

wow

Well this is pretty cool. Definitely going to be a unique build to watch. I can tell from some of those shots already that the interior is going to be interesting to see.

Some current ones, doing a lot on engine dress up. New wall is 4.5" thick. There's 3 1/0, 8 3/0, and 3 4/0 runs of welding cable ran through the car. Need to find red silicone radiator hoses. Buying sti brakes soon too.

Relocated oil filter, deleted power steering and ac, added transmission cooler.

Wow, you have certainly put a lot of work into this.

Can you explain the color coding on the heavy battery cables/wiring? What is POS/NEG with the green and black cables? Looks like 2/0 AWG?

Wow, you have certainly put a lot of work into this.

Can you explain the color coding on the heavy battery cables/wiring? What is POS/NEG with the green and black cables? Looks like 2/0 AWG?

 

Hi, the 3 green will be used for my 12v alternator, 1 pos 2 neg, nothings labeled but I'm ordering fancy colored pet sleeves so I know what pos and neg. I always use some sort of black for ground though. And those are knukoncepts 1/0 cables. Everything I use is tinned ofc copper

So we have a 1/4 Mile Drag sticky. Are we adding a db Drag sticky... I'm certain my stock system can push 86db.

So we have a 1/4 Mile Drag sticky. Are we adding a db Drag sticky... I'm certain my stock system can push 86db.

 

That would be sweet! i do db drag and meca.

Cobb's response to me asking about using the access port on my car. Sucks. In looking for something that I can use to get a quick tune and switch between maps. New to the engine and ecu modding side of things.

You are asking for a lot, you might get in touch with XRT and see if they are tuning the Fb engine yet. But you will need to have laptop and cable to switch maps.

 

But honestly switching maps on accessport isn't just hitting a button either, there is a kind of long process with turning the key off and on to initialize the map, set the relearn, load the map...and so on. It takes a few minutes to get it done and you have to be parked.

I have seen some Subarus with their turbo sticking through the hood with a dump pipe off the turbo, I don't know if yours will qualify as world's loudest Subaru, lol!

Is there another option for what I'm attempting then? I'm not out to get horsepower, main thing is I want to be able to switch my idle from stock to 1500rpm on the fly and then back to stock. My team mates have cheap cars and just weld fish eye hooks to the floor and zip tie to the gas pedal to desired rpm.

You're not missing much without COBB functionality.

Although for map switching either they or Ecutek cant be beat.

 

Get an open-source based tune using either RomRaider, EcuFlash or Epifan's ECUEdit.

Adjustable idle RPM is easy using either/or.

 

There are a handful of tuners (some maybe on here in our vendor area)

that offer e-tunes using above and can help you get that sorted.

Most will only bother working on LGTs, but thankfully not all.

 

As a first step track down whats your current ECUID and CID/CALID using generic OBDII software and dongles or skip directly to using BtSsm with either a VAG com K-line cable, OBDLink LX/MX, BtSsm' own dongle or Tactrix OPv2 cable.

 

Pick your poison... or consider skipping the tune all together (not sure it will net you much beyond better DBW throttle response) and a tad more mid-range torque.

That's some nicely written advice, should be able to run the engine sometime next week and have a buddy that can pull that info for me. Will research the ecutek's tonight. Thanks!

You could always build a throttle servo to push your pedal automatically at the touch of a button.

 

https://www.robotshop.com/en/lynxmotion-heavy-duty-metal-base-servo.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA8bnUBRA-EiwAc0hZk260cTmhxULNzDSFmpSUWQs6LlFdqDNiim5rNJJtCJTvuBNjcd2CrBoC4UEQAvD_BwE

 

https://www.robotshop.com/en/servo-controller-mx-04.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA8bnUBRA-EiwAc0hZk4v6KFH7Ldu6fNQ7q4FHmzg8GDCwkdsQ0sbj3N2HKZVSdMNKT4PjJBoCJQgQAvD_BwE

 

Or find out what the signal from the pedal looks like and wire in a circuit to modify the signal to kick up the idle.

Looks like either Calibration IDs (CID/CALIDs) EA1P300d (CAL emissions) or EA1P300f (FED emissions) should be your target for ECU updates.

Both released by Subaru in October 2014, most likely available to the dealer network in early 2015.

 

If you take her in to a dealership, ask that they apply the latest PAK to your ECU via FlashWrite.

Either 22765AE06G (CAL) or 22765AE07G (FED). Flashing these will give you the CID/CALIDs I mentioned above.

Takes about 5 minutes to apply but don't be surprised if they charge 0.4 - 1 hour labor.

 

No TCU updates for your model year CVT.

 

Interestingly (for your audiophile application) the release notes for the ECU update reads:

Eliminates extended engine cranking, improves oil level detection accuracy, adds additional spark knock prevention,

RPM surge improvement logic, limits RPM drop with electrical load.

Aside from updating the ECU CID/CALID, regardless of whether you decide to explore a tune or not, have a look @ the Alt-S fuse mod

to raise the alternator voltage output to ~14.6-15V if you're running AGM or *-ion batteries (depending on whether you need/want that with the alt-zilla and industrial wiring setup).

Looks like either Calibration IDs (CID/CALIDs) EA1P300d (CAL emissions) or EA1P300f (FED emissions) should be your target for ECU updates.

Both released by Subaru in October 2014, most likely available to the dealer network in early 2015.

 

If you take her in to a dealership, ask that they apply the latest PAK to your ECU via FlashWrite.

Either 22765AE06G (CAL) or 22765AE07G (FED). Flashing these will give you the CID/CALIDs I mentioned above.

Takes about 5 minutes to apply but don't be surprised if they charge 0.4 - 1 hour labor.

 

No TCU updates for your model year CVT.

 

Interestingly (for your audiophile application) the release notes for the ECU update reads:

Eliminates extended engine cranking, improves oil level detection accuracy, adds additional spark knock prevention,

RPM surge improvement logic, limits RPM drop with electrical load.

Aside from updating the ECU CID/CALID, regardless of whether you decide to explore a tune or not, have a look @ the Alt-S fuse mod

to raise the alternator voltage output to ~14.6-15V if you're running AGM or *-ion batteries (depending on whether you need/want that with the alt-zilla and industrial wiring setup).

 

I love you guys! My dealerships sucks and I caught them overruling on my oil consumption test so the next closest to me is an hour away, but for that update it sounds like I need to do whatever I can to get it. And the alternator that will run my car is a no wire self excited and internally regulated to 14.9v, was surprised that it didn't throw codes without the factory alt plug going into something.

If you have a laptop. It would probably be easier to just to buy tactrix cable and modify the idle tables yourself. If hasn't been done already you would have to get your calibration defined on ROMRaider.

 

gutted ac with sawzall and was super fun, welding steel plates on the firewall

got the hps intake on and its loud af

just finished the buss bars for the 18v lithium, just have to do the 12v now

stacked 2x4s, total wall thickness is 4.5 all around

stacked 2x4s, total wall thickness is 4.5 all around

 

How do you get a chick in the back seat???