Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Engine Getting Hot Only Uphill


Recommended Posts

Howdy,

 

Hope everybody is safe and healthy during these insane times. As the title suggests I am running into a weird issue where if it is warm out (+85F) and I am ripping up a grade my 05 LGT (5MT) starts to get a little bit hot (never higher than the top white line, never in the red). No issues at idle, no issues in stop and go.

 

Oil and filter changed ~1k ago. Previous owner replaced radiator before I bought the car, and I had to top-off coolant once (figured it was a burping thing?). That being said, have never burped or checked for air pockets.

 

Anyways, perused older posts and spent a lot of the time scared shitless that my heads are deformed, my HGs are busted, or other scary stories. No signs of HGs as far as I can tell.

 

Looking for step-by-step trouble shooting. Again, the overheating is pretty intermittent and a recent issue so I'm confused. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would start with a proper burp of the system. Chock the rear wheels and jack the front-passenger corner up about 1 foot. Take off the cap of the top-most (turbo) coolant reservoir. Start the engine and put the heat on low, let the engine warm. Watch to see if the coolant level drops in the reservoir and add distilled water/coolant as needed. Bubbles in the reservoir can mean air in the system or a blown head gasket, but if you don't smell coolant coming out the exhaust I wouldn't worry about the latter. Let us know how it goes!

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

muFreight.co
A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan 🇯🇵 to NYC 🗽
 🌐 Website📷 Instagram✉️ Email

Bessie II's Thread

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will absolutely get that done! Thanks for the quick feedback.

 

Quick question: if the coolant level in the reservoir begins to drop, is that an indication of air in the system, or would that just be low coolant levels?

 

Question 2: If I do see bubbles and I am confident it isn't a head gasket, do I need to do a full flush?

 

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No problem at all. If you're losing coolant fast enough that you can actually see it drop, it's almost certainly air in the system. Being that the previous owner changed the radiator already, I assume it has already been flushed. It just needs topping off.

muFreight.co
A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan 🇯🇵 to NYC 🗽
 🌐 Website📷 Instagram✉️ Email

Bessie II's Thread

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep in mind that air in the system isn't necessarily a bad head gasket. Coolant leaking out of the system has to be replaced with some amount of air. You could also have a bad radiator cap. A stuck thermostat seems unlikely, but it wouldn't be bad to change it out if you don't know when it was last (if ever) done, as a stuck closed thermostat can kill your car pretty quick.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright, woke up this morning to do the coolant burp and had some confounding results.

 

Jacked up the passenger side as high as my jack would go (definitely at least a foot), removed the turbo side coolant cap (a little spilled out cause I had just driven the car to re-park), accessport said 114F before I removed the cap.

 

Started up the car, turned the temp on the AC all the way up but had the blower on low. As temp started to creep up could not determine whether I was seeing bubbles or tiny particles, but either way nothing conclusive. Finally car reached operating temp (accessport said temp peaked at 203), fans kicked on coolant dropped a bit in the reservoir but I didn't think enough to warrant topping off.

 

At temp though I did start to see some bubbles coming through, decent sized ones. That being said, exhaust smelled like exhaust not maple syrup, no white smoke from exhaust, but maybe I'm just trying to convince myself it isn't a head gasket.

 

The other big thing, I was walking around, and suddenly my shoes are moist, look on the ground and there's definitely coolant puddling! Like I said, a little spilled out at the beginning, but after that I had a rag by the cap to prevent more spillage. I'd say there's a leak somewhere.

 

Weirder thing: on the drivers side the coolant drip was green (same as in the tank) but on the turbo side there was a smaller drip going on that was a reddish color. Pretty confused by that, any ideas?

 

Previous owner replaced the radiator himself, had previously never DIY'd on the car before so I'm wondering whether he messed up? Would a coolant leak be letting air into the system?

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Final thing: the under-carriage shroud is a little loose and not in place on the drivers side, I've heard that can cause problems but seems like I have other fish to fry currently... thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think the T'stat is ok.

 

The leak has me worried. You need to get a good flashlight and check the lower radiator for green stains. Check the necks where they attach to the radiator.

 

Most of us have the top neck crack because someone leaned on it...

 

As a general rule, GT's don't have HG issues.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you're thinking that the leak could be a cracked radiator as opposed to a coolant line or hose? Looks like it would be coming from behind the radiator, not underneath. Either way, looks like I need to get underneath her and see what the story is. I'll update when I get down there.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update (not sure if it'll get any responses) but went through the whole burping process again to identify any leaks and I was surprised to see a red fluid (not the green that was in the reservoir) dripping on the passenger side. Not sure whether that's coolant dripping from having the cap open and picking up different colors on the way down, or what. Any ideas on why that would be?

 

That being said, the lower coolant hose had some residue where it connects to the block and has discoloration from the exhaust being right be it. Not sure whether that is causing the leak, whether the PO improperly burped, or whether something else is going on.

 

Either way, that lower hose seems easy enough to replace and I think I'm just gonna err on the side of caution and do a complete drain and refill of the system with Zerex blue. At least then if the problem persists I'll know something else is going on. Using one of those special burp funnels from Amazon so hopefully that helps. Appreciate the help, any additional insights would be appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The red fluid is probably power steering (ATF). Common to leak out of the PS pump due to a bad o-ring; a cheap $ and 10min replacement.

 

My OEM radiator had a couple hairline cracks in the plastic that would only really cause an issue once the system was hot and pressurized. Something else to look out for if you're sure it's not an obvious hose leak or head gaskets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The red fluid is probably power steering (ATF). Common to leak out of the PS pump due to a bad o-ring; a cheap $ and 10min replacement.

 

My OEM radiator had a couple hairline cracks in the plastic that would only really cause an issue once the system was hot and pressurized. Something else to look out for if you're sure it's not an obvious hose leak or head gaskets.

 

Good to know on the power steering fluid - maybe that'll solve some of the squealing when I'm parallel parking.

 

What's the best way to check for bad HGs? I know they aren't common issue on 05 LGT but want to be sure. The exhaust doesn't smell sweet, or have white smoke, but I saw the bubbles (almost foam) in the turbo side reservoir tank and want to be able to say for sure it isn't (or is) HGs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best way with confidence is to use a block tester kit. Autozone should have them for rent, I believe. Big syringe that you put a (blue) fluid in, then put over the mouth of your turbo coolant reservoir while the motor is running (obviously from a cold start before the coolant system builds pressure), and pump the syringe to pull in the vapors from the coolant loop. If the fluid remains the same color, your HGs aren't leaking, at least between the cylinder and the coolant jackets. If the fluid turns yellow, then you have a leaky HG.

 

It's also possible the HG leak is between an oil passage and the cylinder. The telltale here is seeing oil in coolant, leading to milky fluid in the radiator/turbo reservoir.

 

Edit: see here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5889831&postcount=3458

Edited by solidxsnake
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best way with confidence is to use a block tester kit. Autozone should have them for rent, I believe. Big syringe that you put a (blue) fluid in, then put over the mouth of your turbo coolant reservoir while the motor is running (obviously from a cold start before the coolant system builds pressure), and pump the syringe to pull in the vapors from the coolant loop. If the fluid remains the same color, your HGs aren't leaking, at least between the cylinder and the coolant jackets. If the fluid turns yellow, then you have a leaky HG.

 

It's also possible the HG leak is between an oil passage and the cylinder. The telltale here is seeing oil in coolant, leading to milky fluid in the radiator/turbo reservoir.

 

Edit: see here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5889831&postcount=3458

 

Awesome, thanks for the advice! Guess I'll run that test before diving in on doing a full coolant flush. Will follow-up with the results tonight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you made sure the fins in the radiator have become unbonded from the tubes ?

 

Just try pushing on them to see if they slide between the fins.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you made sure the fins in the radiator have become unbonded from the tubes ?

 

Just try pushing on them to see if they slide between the fins.

 

I haven't done this, and I'm a bit dense so might need a little more explanation. So I should just push on the radiator fins and I'd be looking for tubes coming between the fins? Sorry for the meat-head response :spin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update, used a block testing kit and the fluid did not change to yellow (changed to green when I held it in front of the exhaust) and the coolant that I removed to do the block testing kit was clean, green, and free of milkiness as far as I could tell.

 

So, I am gonna move forward with a full flush (running distilled water through everything to get out any weird stuff) and then fill it up with Zerex Blue.

 

Again, no obvious leaks so I'm pretty stumped. Though, here's a picture of my lower hose, as you can see everything is dirty, but the hose has residue on the end, and it being right by the exhaust manifold makes me think it could be leaking onto it and burning off (given I only see temps go up under hard driving). Does this hose look like it needs replacing?

 

yWm5PAx

 

https://i.imgur.com/v1ZWPL4.jpg

 

Anyways, any pro-tips for the coolant flush? I'm using the special burping funnel from Amazon to make sure I get all the air out of the system. Cheers and thanks for the continued attention and support.

Edited by chhalter
Add photo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That hose looks ok from what I can see.

 

When you push on the fins between the tubes you want to make sure they don't move, showing they are no longer attached to the tubes.

 

When my Civic got hot climbing hills, it took me a while to figure out the fins had become detached from the tubes.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, I am gonna move forward with a full flush (running distilled water through everything to get out any weird stuff) and then fill it up with Zerex Blue.

...

Anyways, any pro-tips for the coolant flush? I'm using the special burping funnel from Amazon to make sure I get all the air out of the system. Cheers and thanks for the continued attention and support.

If you're going through the trouble of flushing with distilled water, I would probably also look into some radiator cleaners.

muFreight.co
A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan 🇯🇵 to NYC 🗽
 🌐 Website📷 Instagram✉️ Email

Bessie II's Thread

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best way with confidence is to use a block tester kit. Autozone should have them for rent, I believe. Big syringe that you put a (blue) fluid in, then put over the mouth of your turbo coolant reservoir while the motor is running (obviously from a cold start before the coolant system builds pressure), and pump the syringe to pull in the vapors from the coolant loop. If the fluid remains the same color, your HGs aren't leaking, at least between the cylinder and the coolant jackets. If the fluid turns yellow, then you have a leaky HG.

 

It's also possible the HG leak is between an oil passage and the cylinder. The telltale here is seeing oil in coolant, leading to milky fluid in the radiator/turbo reservoir.

 

Edit: see here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5889831&postcount=3458

 

My Honda has a bad head gasket and passed this test. If you have an external leak like I do then it won't necessarily show up. Mine just spills coolant onto the back of the block and doesn't mix oil and coolant.

 

A coolant pressure test or leakdown test would be a better indicator IMO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Honda has a bad head gasket and passed this test. If you have an external leak like I do then it won't necessarily show up. Mine just spills coolant onto the back of the block and doesn't mix oil and coolant.

 

A coolant pressure test or leakdown test would be a better indicator IMO.

 

Yeah, I suppose I should have mentioned that this is the best way to check for HG failure between cylinder/coolant jacket if you don't have any other indications (i.e. an external leak). Figured if you see coolant/oil leaking from the head/block seam, then it should be pretty obvious it's a head gasket failure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you suspect a HG issue, most repair shops will have a HC tester that can sniff Hydrocarbons in the coolant system.

 

May be some auto parts stores may rent them too ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use